Tyler is a fellow competition climbing nerd and podcaster, who has been involved in the space much longer than I have, and you may be familiar with his channel, Plastic Weekly! In this episode, we’ll talk about what it’s like MCing at a world cup, commiserate on the hardships that come with climbing podcasting, go over some climbing HOT TAKES, and talk about the upcoming 2024 season! Guest links : Tyler’s Instagram Plastic Weekly IG Plastic Weekly Youtube Reference links : Learn more about the p...
Mar 05, 2024•1 hr 30 min•Season 2Ep. 5
Cody is the USA national chief routesetter, and in the 2023 IFSC season he had the opportunity to set boulders in Hachioji, Prague, Innsbruck, and the Bern world champs! In this episode, we’ll watch him read Youtube hate comments, and we’ll learn about the differences between IFSC vs USA vs commercial routesetting, as well as hear about a crazy cool gym that he will be opening up soon. Guest links : Cody’s Instagram Syndicate Routesetting Reference links : Reel: Routesetting Testing vs Athletes ...
Feb 20, 2024•2 hr 54 min•Season 2Ep. 4
Carlie is the FIRST female chief setter at an IFSC world championship, where she led a team of 5 to set the world paraclimbing championships in Bern 2023! She has been climbing for over 20 years and setting for almost just as long, so she has a lot of experience. In this episode, we’ll learn about all the things you have to keep in mind when setting world championship routes for paraclimbers, what it’s like in the routesetting scene as a female setter, and what it’s like owning a climbing gym. G...
Feb 05, 2024•1 hr 3 min•Season 2Ep. 3
Anita Aggarwal and Christiane Luttikhuizen are paraclimbers who have competed in world cups as part of the RP3 sports class. RP3 is a classification for limited reach, power or stability. In this episode, we’ll learn about what it’s like climbing with a disability, the difficulties dealing with classification and class merging, whether or not the IFSC does a good job with accommodations, and the possibility of joining the Paralympics in LA 2028. Guest links : Anita’s Instagram Christiane’s Insta...
Jan 22, 2024•1 hr 57 min•Season 2Ep. 2
Stasa is a boulder and lead climber (specializing in boulder) from Serbia who has been competing in international cups since 2011 as a youth climber. Most recently, she took the silver medal in the Laval European Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll learn about Serbian funding in the sport and OQS, we’ll get a glimpse into what bouldering isolation is like, hear some tales from the commentary booth, and hear her reflect on the 2023 season. Guest links : Instagram Reference links : Career highlight...
Jan 08, 2024•1 hr 50 min•Season 2Ep. 1
Sam is only 17 years old, yet he has already won gold at a world cup, holds the speed climbing record in the US, and recently secured his Paris 2024 Olympic ticket at the PanAm Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll get more insight into speed climbing at the highest level, his experience at the PanAm Games, how he juggles personal life, school, and climbing, and we need your help in figuring out how he can up his social media game! Guest links : Instagram Reference links : IFSC Ones to Watch Interv...
Nov 27, 2023•1 hr 20 min•Season 1Ep. 10
Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Campbell represents team Australia and is one of the Oceania region’s top competitors for moving onto the Olympics in the boulder and lead combined category. He also recently got elected to the IFSC athlete’s commission, so in this episode we’ll talk about causes he’d like to champion through that, what it’s like competing as an Australian, and he also opens up about his past struggles with eating disorders, as well as why he was partially missing in Olympic q...
Nov 13, 2023•1 hr 31 min•Season 1Ep. 9
Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Matt Groom is a freelance commentator best known for being the lead commentator at IFSC world cups. You may also find him hosting EpicTV Climbing Daily, writing for UKC, or commentating at other climbing competitions. There's a lot of talk online about Matt, and in this EXCLUSIVE interview we go over his response to criticism as well as his explanation for some of the mistakes caught on audio. Guest links : Instagram Youtube Reference links : Commentary box be...
Oct 30, 2023•1 hr 39 min•Season 1Ep. 8
Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Zoe is a program manager for GB Climbing and is an expert in organizing and running climbing competitions! Her FIRST world cup event was Edinburgh 2022 and it was definitely…eventful. She also has experience organizing paraclimbing competitions and Bern world champs. There’s much more going on behind the scenes of climbing competitions than you’d expect, so tune in to learn more about what it takes! Guest links : Email: zoe@thebmc.co.uk Reference links : Conta...
Oct 16, 2023•1 hr 31 min•Season 1Ep. 7
Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Allegra is a Youtuber, mental climbing coach, and co-founder of ClimbInFlow, which provides services for climbing mind training. She has experience coaching all types of climbers, from beginners to world cup youth athletes. She recently came home from coaching at the youth world champs in Korea, where she helped Geila Macia Martin podium in boulder and lead! Allegra has also competed a bit herself, competing in Swedish Lead Championships after only 2 years of ...
Oct 02, 2023•1 hr 26 min•Season 1Ep. 6
Thanks for tuning into the podcast! You may be familiar with Albert's old viral Youtube videos where he does deep-dive analyses into great comp climbing beta-break moments. Nowadays, he is spending more time working on his own training to hopefully make the USA national team, as well as working as a speed climbing coach (you're probably familiar with a lot of the speed athletes he works with!) Guest links : https://instagram.com/professorok https://youtube.com/@albertokay Reference links : First...
Sep 18, 2023•1 hr 30 min•Season 1Ep. 5
Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Grace is a speed climber on the Australian team who only started climbing in late 2015 and has been competing in world cups since 2019 at the age of 15 (only 4 years of climbing before becoming world level?!?!). Grace is also open about sharing their experience being a non-binary athlete within competitive sports. Guest links : https://instagram.com/gracecrowlye Reference links :Classic Speed Climbing: Video Adidas Rockstars: YT Channel Arco Rock Master: 2023 ...
Sep 04, 2023•1 hr 3 min•Season 1Ep. 4
You may have seen a couple of Jonathan's viral Youtube videos lately, such as I trained like a pro climber for 6 months , where he opens up about his dream of becoming a professional competition climber and documents his journey of trying to make the Hong Kong national team. His effort is all the more impressive once you find out he only started climbing in 2019 and managed to send v11 after only 2 years. Guest links : https://www.instagram.com/jonathan_sin88 https://www.youtube.com/@jonathan_si...
Aug 21, 2023•1 hr 6 min•Season 1Ep. 3
Maya is an outspoken IFSC volunteer + judge currently living in Japan who has helped out with world cups in Edinburgh, Morioka, and Hachioji. She has some great behind-the-scenes context into world cups, what team Japan is like behind the wall, and she has some spicy takes on the IFSC organization (even got blocked once by their social media)… Guest links : https://www.instagram.com/mayasounds Reference links : Japanese outdoor climbers Sachi Amma (@sachiamma) and team Rokdo (@rokdo_team) Timest...
Aug 05, 2023•1 hr 24 min•Season 1Ep. 2
Thanks for tuning into the inaugural episode of the podcast! Niki is a routesetter with over 20 years of experience, setting for both commercial gyms and competitions. He’s known for setting “parkour-style” boulders that require creative movement rather than raw power. We’ll hear from him about what it’s like setting for world cup level climbers, how the IFSC chooses holds and setters, different competition formats, and how to improve the future of competition climbing. You can find the links be...
Jul 22, 2023•1 hr 21 min•Season 1Ep. 1
A brief description of what to expect from the That's Not Real Climbing Podcast
Jul 02, 2023•59 sec
