Ned Feehally is Shauna Coxsey’s husband. (Just teasing Ned!) Ned is a top-level boulderer from the UK, the cofounder of Beastmaker, and the author of Beastmaking . We talked about his background in climbing, how Beastmaker got started, Ned’s approach to finger training, the benefits of board climbing, using ankle weights for body tension, and much more. Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Grass...
Apr 04, 2022•2 hr 32 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Steve McClure. We talked about highlights from the past year since our first interview, sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, takeaways from critical and peak force testing with the Lattice Team, tips for breaking through plateaus on a hard project, how to enjoy a long life of climbing, and what it means to “cook tea” in England. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full versio...
Mar 29, 2022•35 min
Dr. Favia Dubyk is a pathologist, cancer survivor, Ninja Warrior, cat lover, and badass boulderer. We talked about the connective tissue disorder that led her to specialize in lowball roof climbing, what it was like to go through cancer and chemotherapy, how she became one of the strongest people in the world at pull-ups, learning how to dyno, and her current V13 lowball roof project. Check out Chalk Cartel! chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Phy...
Mar 28, 2022•3 hr 2 min
Jerry Moffatt is one of my all-time climbing heroes. He is a British legend and was arguably the best rock climber in the world during the mid to late 80s. We talked about his early days, wanting to be a “Crag Rat”, living for free before sponsorship, pushing world standards, writing his book on mental training , and what the top climbers have in common when it comes to their mental game. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent y...
Mar 21, 2022•1 hr 53 min
This is round 2 with John Sherman aka “The Verm”. We sat in the desert near Hueco Tanks and chatted over a few beers. We talked about ‘Wheatiesgate’ and the lost art of heckling, finding and developing areas before the internet, dealing with aging, photographing and studying birds, life lessons, injury stories, and John’s favorite beers. *I recommend listening to my first episode with Verm (EP 108) before this episode. Check out Crimpd! crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app! ( Available for iOS ...
Mar 14, 2022•4 hr 7 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Josh Wharton. We talked about how his flash attempt went on ‘Freerider’ this past November, big wall tactics and Josh’s strategy, inventing the fix-and-follow system and why it’s a game-changer, and other considerations for people who want to attempt ‘Freerider’ or other big wall free climbs. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 44:56. patreo...
Mar 12, 2022•27 min
Martin Keller is a Swiss boulderer, climbing coach, and teacher, and is known for his long-term dedication to his bouldering projects. We talked about spending 150+ days projecting his FA of ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/16 , how to change our brain chemistry, how Martin trains on his outdoor projects, and how changing his mindset unlocked his hardest climbs. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted ou...
Mar 07, 2022•2 hr 47 min
John Sherman is a bouldering legend. His nickname “Verm” (short for “Vermin”) is where the “V” in our bouldering grade system came from. We sat down in a cave in Hueco Tanks and talked about what bouldering was like 30+ years ago, early climbing shoes, highballing before crash pads were invented, out-of-body experiences, and how some of the boulders got their provocative names. Check out Chalk Cartel! chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! cr...
Feb 28, 2022•2 hr 4 min
Tim Emmett is a professional climber from the UK who practices everything from cutting edge ice climbing to deep water soloing to hard sport climbing. We talked about the gritstone scene in the UK, the “why” behind taking risk, climbing his hardest after age 40 and becoming a parent, training finger strength to try to climb ‘Era Vella’ 9a (5.14d), and passing on life philosophies to others. Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use the link above to get a free year supply of vitam...
Feb 21, 2022•2 hr 43 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Tom Randall. We went deep into how to program your training as a self-coached climber. We talked about how to use your friends to discover your strengths and weaknesses, how to work backward from goals, how long it takes to make major changes in your climbing like switching from bouldering to sport climbing, and much more. *This is one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded, for anyone who want...
Feb 17, 2022•37 min
Hans Florine has held the speed record on ‘The Nose’ on El Capitan 8 separate times. He has climbed the route 112 times, with 100+ people. He loves ‘The Nose’ so much, he wrote a book about it . We talked about winning the first International Speed Climbing Championships in 1991, his earliest ascents of El Cap, top 3 big wall efficiency tips, and the value of doing hard things. Check out PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off you...
Feb 14, 2022•2 hr 38 min
Brent Barghahn has rope soloed ‘The Nose’ in a day, freed multiple routes on El Cap, and is a former engineer at Black Diamond. We talked about how Brent combined van life and “house hacking” to effectively retire at 28-years-old, about motocross and extreme unicycling, cutting his teeth on hard trad routes in LCC, and his setup for redpoint rope soloing. Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Rhi...
Feb 07, 2022•1 hr 58 min
Amity Warme is one of the most badass trad climbers you’ve never heard of. She also has a master's in nutrition. We talked about her incredible season in Yosemite including ground-up free ascents of ‘Freerider’ and ‘Golden Gate’, the importance of logistics in big wall free climbing, what she learned growing up in gymnastics, training plans, and eating more to do more. Check out Crimpd! crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app! Check out PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)...
Jan 31, 2022•2 hr 11 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finger tendon and bone lengths, and their ability to generate force on different edge sizes. We covered Tyler’s latest recommendations for max strength finger training, how to get stronger on small holds, and when and how to use hangboard repeaters. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And ...
Jan 29, 2022•27 min
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is a professional climber from the UK. She is also a writer, speaker, and co-host of the Curious Climber Podcast along with Hazel Findlay . We talked about her early life, impermanence, flow state, learning to try really hard, how she made the switch from hard boulders to hard sport routes, what sets high-level climbers apart, and the decision to become a mom. Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 t...
Jan 24, 2022•2 hr 27 min
Matty Hong is a professional rock climber, photographer, and filmmaker. We talked about what it was like to grow up in a climbing family, about making the first repeat of ‘Flex Luthor’ 5.15b as well as a history of the route and his thoughts on the grade, training for sport climbing projects on his home wall, climbing waterfalls in Japan, and balancing photography and filmmaking with climbing. Check out Chalk Cartel: chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Chec...
Jan 17, 2022•2 hr 2 min
Nina Caprez is a professional rock climber from Switzerland, who is known for her many impressive ascents of hard multi-pitch climbs. We talked about her current trip to Greece and her newest passion project , trying to free climb ‘The Nose’ with Lynn Hill, why failing on the route was a gift, and about softening and leaning into womanness. *Nina also shared some exciting news in this episode! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions: rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your n...
Jan 10, 2022•1 hr 39 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my training plan for Hueco in 2022, how to structure my weeks and days, how to continue progressing my V12 and V13 pyramids, how to use bouldering intervals to maintain aerobic capacity for sport climbing, and Steve laid out a hangboard plan to prime my crimp strength for Hueco. *I recommend listening to Steve’s original episode and my first Follow-Up with him before t...
Jan 07, 2022•5 min
Ben Moon is a famous rock climber from the UK. He was the first person to climb 5.14c (8c+) with his route ‘Hubble’. He is also the inventor of the MoonBoard . We talked about his early climbing experiences as a kid, his first road trip to Buoux in France in 1984, how training and sport climbing have changed, how Ben uses the MoonBoard, and much more. Check out PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Cha...
Jan 03, 2022•2 hr 7 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Paige Claassen . We talked about her send of ‘Kryptonite’ shortly after our first interview, how she warms up for a 5.14+ project at a remote cliff, what she learned from trying ‘Empath’ 5.15a, how she trained for and projected ‘Dreamcatcher’, getting gratification from the process, learning to celebrate, and updates on crag snacks and more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And suppo...
Dec 16, 2021•31 min
In Q&A 4, I tackle patron questions about Hueco round 2 and other goals for 2022, my plans for V12 and 5.14, how my trip to Leavenworth went and plans to return, my favorite features in the van, dating on the road, my remote working setup, what I’ve learned from nearly 100 episodes of the podcast, and making sense of conflicting advice. *Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below...
Dec 13, 2021•2 hr 34 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyson Schoene . We talked about the recent USA Climbing 2021 National Championships, some of the differences and similarities between his top athletes like Quinn , Melina , Drew , and Sean , keeping training simple, how newer adult climbs can mimic training like a team kid, and finding the important questions in our training and climbing. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support ...
Dec 11, 2021•31 min
Kyra Condie is a 25-year-old professional climber based out of Salt Lake City, UT, and was one of four climbers to represent the US at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. We talked about whistling, dream broadway roles, training with a fused spine, pursuing the Olympic dream, separating self-worth from results, new tattoos, her cats, cleaning quirks, and thriving in organized chaos. Check out Chalk Cartel: chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Rhino Skin Solut...
Dec 06, 2021•1 hr 51 min
Austin Hoyt is an 18-year-old kid from New York whose tick list rivals some professional climbers. We talked about balancing school with climbing, what he learned from his first coach, his FA of ‘Flashing Lights’ V14, his love of The Gunks, making old-school climbing films, the support from his dad, and his ongoing goal to develop the bouldering scene in the Northeast. Check out Rhino Skin Solutions: rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Support the Po...
Nov 29, 2021•1 hr 36 min
Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes’ 5.15a in Rifle, CO, putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legacy through route development, his love of projecting, current training approach, fashion influences, creating LOV , and his experience with cancellation and rebuilding a new life. Check out Chalk Cartel: chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Support the Podcast: th...
Nov 22, 2021•2 hr 54 min
Tyler Algeo is a Canadian who moved to Africa and started a climbing gym, with the goal of creating a socio-economically inclusive climbing community in Malawi. We talked about learning to climb in Ireland, living in Africa, founding Climb Malawi , adopting and raising his two black sons, Tyler’s work with The Climbing Initiative , and creating a better world through climbing. Donate To: safeclimbing.org climbmalawi.com climbinginitiative.org Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support We...
Nov 15, 2021•2 hr 11 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel. We talked about when to stick with a training program vs. when to pivot, lessons from studying the NBA, how much LeBron James deadlifts, Steve’s climbing background, and how he climbed his first 5.14 at age 47, and his advice for me to improve power endurance. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:38:35. patreon.com/thenugg...
Nov 11, 2021•22 min
Nathaniel Coleman is the men’s silver medalist of the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about his preparation for the games, training in a climbing sauna, the Olympic experience and winning silver, favorite root beer, Kendama as focus training, chess, why Nathaniel still practices the basics of climbing, doing the FA of ‘The Grand Illusion’ V16, and sport climbing plans. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Bryan Fast Become a Patron: patreon.c...
Nov 08, 2021•1 hr 48 min
This is part 2 of my conversation with Tom Herbert . Tom shared some clarifications about part 1 , we talked about the nervous system and the mind-body connection, how to relax before a session to improve your performance and power, how to turn off in the evenings to optimize recovery, and Tom shared about his childhood and ongoing struggle with anxiety from a chronic bladder issue. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Bryan Fast Become...
Nov 01, 2021•2 hr 32 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Natasha Barnes. We talked about how each of us has changed as climbers from gaining muscle mass, how Natasha balances training for climbing with powerlifting, how powerlifting has made her a more patient athlete, encouraging vs. forcing adaptation, separating performing and training, and each of our climbing goals. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The ful...
Oct 28, 2021•23 min
