Tom Herbert is known as the usefulcoach , and is a leader in climbing sports nutrition. We talked about common themes in clients he works with, his philosophy of getting climbers to eat more calories to support a higher training volume, muscle protein synthesis, carbohydrate recommendations and timing, food quality, leucine supplementation, and much more. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Bryan Fast (he's the first one!) Become a Pat...
Oct 25, 2021•2 hr 36 min
Craig DeMartino is a rock climber, motivational speaker, and teacher. His life changed in 2002 when he took a 100-foot ground fall. We talked about Craig’s accident and recovery , the decision to amputate his leg, climbing harder than ever after the accident, doing El Cap in a day, dealing with chronic pain, teaching adaptive climbing, and embracing a new normal. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/ep...
Oct 18, 2021•2 hr 44 min
Josh Wharton is one of the most badass climbers you’ve never heard of. He does it all at an elite level. We talked about tips for hard flashing and onsighting, how alpine climbing relates to rock climbing, training to flash El Cap, the value of taking risks in life, being a climbing parent, climbing in Pakistan, how to find an adventure without flying overseas, and the benefits of stiff shoes. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show ...
Oct 11, 2021•2 hr 16 min
In Q&A 3, I tackle patron questions about my two most successful winters of training on my home wall back in Bend, how my training has evolved and what it looks like now, how to maintain strength while living on the road and climbing full-time, advice for nomadic living, life mottos, try-hard mindset, hair dye, M&Ms, singalong jams, and much more. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing One-On-One Consultations: thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.c...
Oct 04, 2021•1 hr 3 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Allison Vest . We talked about her sends of ‘Throwin’ the Houlihan’ and ‘Rodeo Free Europe’ (both 5.14a) at the Wild Iris, how she trained her fingers for the savage monos, stories and laughs from her road trip with Alex Johnson , rapping, reciting the Periodic Table of Elements in under 45 seconds, music collaborations, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the...
Sep 30, 2021•15 min
Ben Ditto is a professional climber and photographer from Bishop, California. We talked about Ben’s upbringing and early climbing, competing against Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell, falling in love with the mountains, Dynafit dangling and near-death experiences, advice for aspiring photographers, The Adventures of the Dodo , and climbing ‘Father Time’ with his wife Katie Lambert . You can learn more about Ben at bendittophoto.com Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron...
Sep 27, 2021•2 hr 49 min
Alejandra (Alita) Contreras is a half Colombian half Venezualan professional rock climber, coach, and translator. We talked about the economic situation in Venezuela and why she moved to Colombia six years ago, about living in Germany and translating training books by Udo Neumann , about coaching women, our global climbing family, and her current 5.14a project. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/epis...
Sep 20, 2021•1 hr 46 min
Dylan Barks is an elite-level boulder and sport climber, and a dark horse in the climbing scene. He sent ‘Creature from the Black Lagoon’ , his first V16, just two weeks after this interview. We talked about how Dylan uses a spray wall for 95% of his training, how he prepares for both bouldering and sport climbing trips, and about recovering from an eating disorder to climb his hardest ever. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show No...
Sep 13, 2021•1 hr 42 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Steve Maisch . We talked about the aerobic system and oxygen testing with Tyler Nelson , how to maintain climbing fitness during mountain biking season, my summer training program and my plan for the fall and winter, how Steve is preparing for his own trip to Hueco this winter, and we did a listener Q&A from our last episode . Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podc...
Sep 09, 2021•42 min
Emil Abrahamsson is an elite boulderer, route setter, and YouTuber from Sweden. We talked about goal setting and projecting his first V15 as a V9 climber, the importance of psych and inspiration, experimenting with hangboarding two times per day, how to do one-arm pullups, sharing the experience of outdoor climbing through films, and making a living through his YouTube channel . Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenugge...
Sep 06, 2021•2 hr 3 min
Boone Speed is a photographer, innovator, and was the first American to climb 5.14b with his route ‘Super Tweak’ in Logan Canyon, UT. We talked about Boone’s upbringing, discovering climbing in American Fork, most memorable routes and trips, bolting and training in the Hell Cave, creating the Grasshopper Board , and his vision for the future of artificial climbing. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/...
Aug 30, 2021•2 hr 32 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Nathan Hadley . We talked about his recent 10-day trip to RMNP, in which he sent ‘The Honeymoon is Over’ and flashed the ‘Gambler’s Fallacy’ on The Diamond. We talked about how Nathan prepared for the trip, how he and his partner Mike Kerzhner sussed ‘The Honeymoon’, and the day of the send. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:36....
Aug 28, 2021•19 min
Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta , and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast . We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/n...
Aug 23, 2021•1 hr 46 min
Christine Deyo is a professional route setter, and the former head route setter at the Austin Bouldering Project. We talked about Christine’s path to route setting, learning to be creative, setting challenges and games, the Fontainebleau circuit system, the responsibility of route setters, competitions, the role of diversity in setting, and the future of the climbing industry. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing ClimbWell Retreat: cli...
Aug 16, 2021•2 hr 23 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Dru Mack. We talked about how his approach has changed since our first conversation, the process of sending ‘Life of Villains’ 14d, and how he used a hangboard to improve his power endurance for the route, intentional breathing, rest day adventures, recent books, new music, and the goal of 5.15. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 48:46....
Aug 12, 2021•26 min
Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and mental training coach from the UK, known for her boldness on dangerous and difficult trad routes. We talked about common themes in mental coaching, how the ego manifests in our climbing, supporting your partners, fear of falling, and Hazel’s mental approach while projecting the legendary ‘Magic Line’, her first 5.14c. Support the Podcast Become a Patron ClimbWell Retreat: climbwell.co/retreat-rifle Use code " NUGGET10 " for 10% discount! Show Notes: th...
Aug 09, 2021•1 hr 32 min
Robb Wolf is a former research biochemist and 2x New York Times best-selling author of The Paleo Solution and Wired To Eat . We talked about his breakfast, how he tackles nutrition with his two kids, his path to the paleo diet, why low-carb is not necessarily ideal for hard-charging athletes, the importance of protein and sleep, and about his latest book Sacred Cow . Support the Podcast Become a Patron Join the Facebook Group Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robb-wolf Nuggets: 3:17 – O...
Aug 02, 2021•1 hr 36 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ron Kauk. We tackled listener questions about bouldering without crash pads, favorite routes, the legendary “fight” in camp 4, the influence of native culture, how to stay present when projecting, and the plane that crashed in Lower Merced Pass Lake in 1977. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:47:11....
Jul 29, 2021•33 min
Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. We also talked about finger training, and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different. Support the Podcast Become a Patron Join Facebook Group Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson Nuggets: 2:18 – Doughnu...
Jul 26, 2021•2 hr 2 min
Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his parents' basement, a chronology of his haircuts, vans he’s lived in, having kids, bouldering with cargo nets in Hueco Tanks, and notable highball ascents like ‘Evilution’ and ‘The Fly’. Support the Podcast Become a Patron Join Facebook Group Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jason-kehl Nugge...
Jul 19, 2021•1 hr 45 min
Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, the downward spiral of failure, her training schedule, the secrets to one-arm hangs and campusing, having fun, Instagram challenges, and learning how to topout boulders. Support the Podcast Become a Patron Join Facebook Group Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/allison-vest Nuggets: 3:24 – The...
Jul 12, 2021•2 hr 2 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some good laughs along the way. SJ also shared some of the biggest mental challenges she faced during the ascent, and a very “memorable” (and hilarious) moment from the side of the big cheese. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com...
Jul 08, 2021•12 min
Ethan missed the Q&A and had a question he wanted to ask me.
Jul 07, 2021•33 min
In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts for sport climbing, octopus wrestling, and much more. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Facebook Group: facebook.com/groups/thenugget...
Jul 05, 2021•1 hr 12 min
John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book Icarus Syndrome , and his recent article about alcoholism and drug abuse in climbing. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-long Nuggets: 3:33 – Nose ...
Jun 28, 2021•1 hr 57 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with William Woodward. We talked about William’s sailing trip to Hawaii, living at sea for a month, being present, navigating digital minimalism as a business owner, top vanlife tips, how William and I each do our dishes, beta for showering, wiping your butt with wet wipes, my favorite things in my van, and what’s next. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month ...
Jun 24, 2021•32 min
Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz , and the cofounder of Lattice Training . We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall Nuggets...
Jun 21, 2021•1 hr 18 min
Kyle O’Meara is a high-level boulderer, route climber, and successful climbing coach. He’s a total lifer. We talked about his early climbing and development in the PNW, some of his favorite first ascents, outdoor bouldering vs. indoor training, climbing and life goals, discovering coaching, leading by example, and sharing the love of climbing with his team. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyle-omeara Nuggets: 3:47 – Breakfast, d...
Jun 14, 2021•2 hr 39 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Katie Lambert. We talked about her recent haircut, and how that led to getting her body painted for a photo shoot. We also talked about Katie’s new goal to climb 300 5.13s by the age of 50, how she has been integrating outdoor climbing with training, and how she structured her latest sport climbing trip to the Red River Gorge. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per m...
Jun 10, 2021•17 min
This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into climbing, how to train pinch and sloper strength, why Eric started PhysiVantage , and the importance of collagen for building stronger fingers. Discount code: “NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetcli...
Jun 07, 2021•1 hr 18 min
