Eric Hörst is the author of the international bestselling book Training for Climbing and the founder of PhysiVantage . We talked about his dual career as a meteorologist and climbing coach, early route development, how training has evolved, the roles of campusing vs. hangboarding in improving finger strength, why coaching is like 3D chess, and how to train your core. Discount code: “NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show ...
May 31, 2021•2 hr 6 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Alex Johnson. We talked about sending ‘The Swarm’ V13/14, her 10+ year project in Bishop, CA. We also talked about how she prepared for the trip, how she and Bree balanced their climbing objectives in Bishop, taking time off, how to ramp back up after hitting a peak performance, planting a garden, and becoming domesticated. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per mont...
May 27, 2021•24 min
Steve Maisch is a training legend and has been pursuing improvement in rock climbing for more than two decades. Jon Glassberg credits Steve’s training methodology for his recent send of ‘The Nest’ V15 . We talked about Steve’s background in climbing and how he became interested in training, how he helped me add structure to my Hueco bouldering trip, and the 85% rule. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-maisch Nuggets: 5:10 – B...
May 24, 2021•2 hr 29 min
Ron Kauk is a legendary Yosemite climber. He recently received a Lifetime Achievement Award for his many accomplishments, within and beyond climbing. We talked about life in Camp 4 in the 70s, climbing ‘Astroman’ with John Bachar, influential music and books, stories from a brief career in Hollywood, doing the FA of ‘Magic Line’, his non-profit Sacred Rok , daily practices, connecting with Mother Nature, and much more. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenugge...
May 17, 2021•2 hr 25 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ken Klein from the Climb Strong Team. We talked about Ken’s high school baseball coach, the documentary In Search of Greatness , and the 3 things we should be assessing as climbers. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing . The full version of this follow-up call is 1:23:45....
May 13, 2021•16 min
Steve McClure is one of the best rock-climbers in the world, having made the FA of the hardest sport route in the UK at 9b (5.15b), at age 46. We talked about early hitchhiking stories, discovering sport climbing, the three parts of climbing ability, how to improve over the long haul, foot-on campusing, and much more. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-mcclure Nuggets: 4:12 – Podcasts, and the desire to listen 6:22 – Hitching...
May 10, 2021•2 hr 7 min
Heth Jennings is a Physical Therapist and Functional Medicine Practitioner who has been studying pain for over 20+ years. We talked about where pain comes from, how the brain uses pain to protect us, why chronic pain isn’t “just in our head”, how to rehab finger and elbow injuries, and other lifestyle interventions that help with recovery. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/heth-jennings Nuggets: 4:10 – Heth’s background in physica...
May 03, 2021•2 hr 2 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mercedes Pollmeier. I asked for clarifications about the J-Curl and passive stretching, and we tackled Patron questions about individual bony morphology, improving the back bridge, when and how to stretch the hamstrings, whether it is ever too late to begin training flexibility, and Mercedes made a case for why flexibility training is as important as strength training for athletes. You can support the...
Apr 29, 2021•16 min
Mercedes Pollmeier is a climbing coach with a master’s in human movement. We discussed key stretches for climbers, how to warm up for a limit session, whether or not static stretching reduces power, how to improve your flexibility in 6 minutes per day, and “food rules” from her recent book, Peak Nutrition . Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mercedes-pollmeier Nuggets: 5:14 – Wind and head colds 8:29 – Mercedes trip to Red Rocks, a...
Apr 26, 2021•2 hr 10 min
In this bonus episode, Matt Sparks joins me to celebrate Earth Day by talking about the environmental impacts of chalk, best practices, and by offering listeners a discount for Pika liquid chalk. Shop Liquid Chalk: pika.life/products Discount Code for 25% Off: NUGGETDISCOUNT Matt's Article: https://pika.life/the-environmental-impact-of-rock-climbing-chalk/...
Apr 22, 2021•35 min
Natalie Duran is a “Proish Climber”, Ninja Warrior finalist, Guinness World Record holder, television host, actor, influencer, and scientist. We talked about her new rollerskates, growing up with the pressure to become a doctor, early YouTube fame, climbing structures, studying neuroscience, brain scans, overcoming fear, motorcycles, and making a TV show. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/natalie-duran Nuggets: 3:16 – “Today is Th...
Apr 19, 2021•1 hr 27 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jon Glassberg. We talked about sending ‘The Nest’ (his first V15) and breaking down barriers as a “big” climber (6’3”, 190 lbs), we talked about some of Jon’s milestone’s over the years, how he trained his power endurance after sending the stand start’, projecting tactics, keys to success, washing his hands before tries, and more. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations f...
Apr 15, 2021•19 min
Christophe Bichet is a world-class rock climber and a motivational speaker. He was born with a rare blood disorder called Fanconi Anemia and is also a cancer survivor. We talked about climbing as a metaphor for life, finding your “why”, learning new skills, how to achieve world-class endurance without training endurance, and holding on and letting go. GoFundMe for Kyler: https://www.gofundme.com/f/throw-down-for-kyler-pallister Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http:/...
Apr 12, 2021•1 hr 8 min
Megan Mascarenas is a multiple-time World Cup gold medalist and the 2016 Open National Champion in bouldering. She is currently 23 years old. We talked about her fascination with puzzles, why she retired from competing in 2017, discovering a new self-identity outside of climbing, pole dancing, getting back to climbing, her goal to climb V14, and current training. Support the Podcast: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/megan-mascarenas Nuggets: 6:45 – ...
Apr 05, 2021•1 hr 22 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Natasha Barnes. I asked for your questions for her on Instagram, and we tackled a wide range of topics including in-season training, shoulder mobility for climbers who lift weights, whether we should tape injured fingers, recommendations for aging climbers, why climbers shouldn’t be afraid of bulking, dealing with lower back pain, training “the position”, cactuses vs succulents, Moose the cat, printer...
Apr 01, 2021•38 min
In this Q&A, I tackle some of my patron’s most burning questions about how we getting stronger, takeaways from my experiments with nutrition and intermittent fasting, dealing with injuries, favorite training playlists and climbing books, life on the road, patterns I’ve noticed among high performers, dream guests, recommendations for first-time trainers, and much more. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Learn more about Q&As: thenuggetclimbing.com/bonus-content Show Notes: ...
Mar 29, 2021•1 hr 52 min
Chelsea Murn is a climbing and business coach, and the founder of Lady Beta Coaching . We talked about making 100k in her first year of climbing coaching, recommendations for new entrepreneurs, getting uncomfortable, investing in ourselves, scarcity vs. abundance, rewiring our limiting beliefs, money mindset, and Hogwarts letters. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chelsea-murn Nuggets: 5:04 – Chelsea’s morning routines, and schedu...
Mar 22, 2021•2 hr 2 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ben Herrington. We talked about the treasure hunters mindset and clues to look for when developing new boulders, go-to tools for cleaning a new line, how to suss out moves off the deck, building landings, Ben’s new gym in the Tri-Cities, WA, and setting himself boulders that attack his weaknesses. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patr...
Mar 18, 2021•17 min
Leif Gasch has been a climber for over 25 years and now works as a trainer and coach. We talked about his path from construction to coaching, balancing training with a physically demanding job, how to be a better weekend warrior, mini-goals, breaking into new grades, warming up for hard redpoints, and much more. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/leif-gasch Nuggets: 4:36 – “Back porch kind of a deal” 5:28 – Living on the road durin...
Mar 15, 2021•2 hr 37 min
In this solo episode, I share my experience with an eating disorder. I talk about how an inaccurate DEXA scan and a desire to climb harder spiraled into body dysmorphia, failure, and shame. I also talk about what led me out of it, reframing the way I think about weight, key lessons and takeaways, where I am at now with weight and diet, and how I plan to move forward. Support the Podcast: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/my-eating-disorder...
Mar 11, 2021•45 min
Carlos Tkacz is a teacher, author, and lover of literature. He also lives in a van and climbs V13. We talked about many things, including a reading list given to him by his friend, impactful quotes, lessons learned from students, starting climbing in his 20’s and discovering training, writing a training book, self-publishing sci-fi novels, public speaking advice, and sharing ideas. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-tkacz In...
Mar 08, 2021•2 hr 27 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Emily Harrington. We talked about her send of ‘Golden Gate’ in a day, finding flow state after a minor head injury, using two pairs of TC Pros to climb the Monster Offwidth, her recent trip to the VRG, how she has trained Adrian (her partner) to climb his first 5.13b, and favorite pancake toppings. You can get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbi...
Mar 04, 2021•10 min
This is part 2 of my conversation with Dave MacLeod. We talked about key points from Dave’s book 9 Out of 10 Climbers , how he uses flexible programming to train around the weather in Scotland, his current carnivore diet experiment, and listener questions about aging, piles of eggs, disordered eating, fatherhood, Scottish climbing, and more. Support the Podcast: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-2 Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:04:10) – W...
Mar 01, 2021•1 hr 51 min
Dave MacLeod is a professional climber from Scotland and might be the best all-around climber in the world. Dave also has two master’s degrees and has authored two books . We talked about improving from 13d to 14d in 18 months , the ritual of approaching the fingerboard , how to reduce the risk of tendon injuries, interpreting scientific research, nutrient density, and more. Support the Podcast: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-1 Nuggets:...
Feb 22, 2021•1 hr 42 min
In this bonus episode, I chat with Blake Cason about ClimbWell , and upcoming retreats for Spring 2021. Blake explains what ClimbWell is all about, who the retreats are for, what to expect from this 4-day experience, and talks about her fellow coaches and their vision for future events. 10% Discount Code: “NUGGET10” Learn More about Sign Up: climbwell.co/retreat Retreat Dates and Location: April 8-11 in Veyo, Utah (Second retreat has been canceled)...
Feb 18, 2021•25 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Blake Cason. We talked about sending her multi-season project ‘Joe SixPack’ at the VRG, transitioning in and out of training phases, embracing curiosity to overcome fear, and reflecting on lessons learned. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing . The full version of this follow-up call is 33:57....
Feb 18, 2021•11 min
Kai Lightner is a professional climber and the founder of Climbing for Change . We talked about how Kai discovered climbing, his reflections on an eating disorder, the importance of flexibility for tall climbers, early racist encounters, starting a non-profit to help open doors for other people, and some of Kai’s favorite training music. Support Climbing for Change: donorbox.org/climbing-for-change-launch Support the Podcast: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com...
Feb 15, 2021•1 hr 39 min
Matt Segal is a professional rock climber and the founder/owner of Alpine Start , a company that makes “Instant Coffee That Actually Tastes Good”. We talked about how Matt got started in climbing, his nickname ‘Miami Vice’, early mentors, losing friends in the mountains, recovering from a paragliding accident, starting a business, and innovating new products. Alpine Start Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/mikeycrouch/alpine-start-with-benefits Support the Podcast: patreon.com/the...
Feb 08, 2021•1 hr 23 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mike Doyle. We talked about some of the exercises that have helped Mike in his recovery from his elbow injury, working with Natasha Barnes and retraining his brain to reduce pain, and Mike shared his go-to hangboard protocol for maintaining finger strength throughout the year between training blocks. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at p...
Feb 04, 2021•15 min
This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week training block, an example training day, the value of training with a partner, favorite Louder Than Eleven films, and foreign haircuts. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-part-2 Nuggets: 4:34 – Flexibility training, and the p...
Feb 01, 2021•1 hr 24 min
