Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
Jan 29, 2022•27 min
Episode description
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finger tendon and bone lengths, and their ability to generate force on different edge sizes. We covered Tyler’s latest recommendations for max strength finger training, how to get stronger on small holds, and when and how to use hangboard repeaters.
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*The full version is 1:16:59.
Tyler’s Original Episode: