Amity Warme is one of the most badass trad climbers you’ve never heard of. She also has a master's in nutrition. We talked about her incredible season in Yosemite including ground-up free ascents of ‘Freerider’ and ‘Golden Gate’, the importance of logistics in big wall free climbing, what she learned growing up in gymnastics, training plans, and eating more to do more. Check out Crimpd! crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app! Check out PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)...
Jan 31, 2022•2 hr 11 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finger tendon and bone lengths, and their ability to generate force on different edge sizes. We covered Tyler’s latest recommendations for max strength finger training, how to get stronger on small holds, and when and how to use hangboard repeaters. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And ...
Jan 29, 2022•27 min
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is a professional climber from the UK. She is also a writer, speaker, and co-host of the Curious Climber Podcast along with Hazel Findlay . We talked about her early life, impermanence, flow state, learning to try really hard, how she made the switch from hard boulders to hard sport routes, what sets high-level climbers apart, and the decision to become a mom. Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 t...
Jan 24, 2022•2 hr 27 min
Matty Hong is a professional rock climber, photographer, and filmmaker. We talked about what it was like to grow up in a climbing family, about making the first repeat of ‘Flex Luthor’ 5.15b as well as a history of the route and his thoughts on the grade, training for sport climbing projects on his home wall, climbing waterfalls in Japan, and balancing photography and filmmaking with climbing. Check out Chalk Cartel: chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Chec...
Jan 17, 2022•2 hr 2 min
Nina Caprez is a professional rock climber from Switzerland, who is known for her many impressive ascents of hard multi-pitch climbs. We talked about her current trip to Greece and her newest passion project , trying to free climb ‘The Nose’ with Lynn Hill, why failing on the route was a gift, and about softening and leaning into womanness. *Nina also shared some exciting news in this episode! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions: rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your n...
Jan 10, 2022•2 hr 39 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my training plan for Hueco in 2022, how to structure my weeks and days, how to continue progressing my V12 and V13 pyramids, how to use bouldering intervals to maintain aerobic capacity for sport climbing, and Steve laid out a hangboard plan to prime my crimp strength for Hueco. *I recommend listening to Steve’s original episode and my first Follow-Up with him before t...
Jan 07, 2022•5 min
Ben Moon is a famous rock climber from the UK. He was the first person to climb 5.14c (8c+) with his route ‘Hubble’. He is also the inventor of the MoonBoard . We talked about his early climbing experiences as a kid, his first road trip to Buoux in France in 1984, how training and sport climbing have changed, how Ben uses the MoonBoard, and much more. Check out PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Cha...
Jan 03, 2022•2 hr 7 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Paige Claassen . We talked about her send of ‘Kryptonite’ shortly after our first interview, how she warms up for a 5.14+ project at a remote cliff, what she learned from trying ‘Empath’ 5.15a, how she trained for and projected ‘Dreamcatcher’, getting gratification from the process, learning to celebrate, and updates on crag snacks and more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And suppo...
Dec 16, 2021•31 min
In Q&A 4, I tackle patron questions about Hueco round 2 and other goals for 2022, my plans for V12 and 5.14, how my trip to Leavenworth went and plans to return, my favorite features in the van, dating on the road, my remote working setup, what I’ve learned from nearly 100 episodes of the podcast, and making sense of conflicting advice. *Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below. Su...
Dec 13, 2021•3 hr 34 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyson Schoene . We talked about the recent USA Climbing 2021 National Championships, some of the differences and similarities between his top athletes like Quinn , Melina , Drew , and Sean , keeping training simple, how newer adult climbs can mimic training like a team kid, and finding the important questions in our training and climbing. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support ...
Dec 11, 2021•31 min
Kyra Condie is a 25-year-old professional climber based out of Salt Lake City, UT, and was one of four climbers to represent the US at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. We talked about whistling, dream broadway roles, training with a fused spine, pursuing the Olympic dream, separating self-worth from results, new tattoos, her cats, cleaning quirks, and thriving in organized chaos. Check out Chalk Cartel: chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Rhino Skin Solut...
Dec 06, 2021•2 hr 51 min
Austin Hoyt is an 18-year-old kid from New York whose tick list rivals some professional climbers. We talked about balancing school with climbing, what he learned from his first coach, his FA of ‘Flashing Lights’ V14, his love of The Gunks, making old-school climbing films, the support from his dad, and his ongoing goal to develop the bouldering scene in the Northeast. Check out Rhino Skin Solutions: rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Support the Po...
Nov 29, 2021•2 hr 36 min
Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes’ 5.15a in Rifle, CO, putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legacy through route development, his love of projecting, current training approach, fashion influences, creating LOV , and his experience with cancellation and rebuilding a new life. Check out Chalk Cartel: chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Support the Podcast: th...
Nov 22, 2021•3 hr 54 min
Tyler Algeo is a Canadian who moved to Africa and started a climbing gym, with the goal of creating a socio-economically inclusive climbing community in Malawi. We talked about learning to climb in Ireland, living in Africa, founding Climb Malawi , adopting and raising his two black sons, Tyler’s work with The Climbing Initiative , and creating a better world through climbing. Donate To: safeclimbing.org climbmalawi.com climbinginitiative.org Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support We...
Nov 15, 2021•2 hr 11 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel. We talked about when to stick with a training program vs. when to pivot, lessons from studying the NBA, how much LeBron James deadlifts, Steve’s climbing background, and how he climbed his first 5.14 at age 47, and his advice for me to improve power endurance. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:38:35. patreon.com/thenugg...
Nov 11, 2021•22 min
Nathaniel Coleman is the men’s silver medalist of the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about his preparation for the games, training in a climbing sauna, the Olympic experience and winning silver, favorite root beer, Kendama as focus training, chess, why Nathaniel still practices the basics of climbing, doing the FA of ‘The Grand Illusion’ V16, and sport climbing plans. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Bryan Fast Become a Patron: patreon.c...
Nov 08, 2021•2 hr 48 min
This is part 2 of my conversation with Tom Herbert . Tom shared some clarifications about part 1 , we talked about the nervous system and the mind-body connection, how to relax before a session to improve your performance and power, how to turn off in the evenings to optimize recovery, and Tom shared about his childhood and ongoing struggle with anxiety from a chronic bladder issue. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Bryan Fast Become...
Nov 01, 2021•3 hr 32 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Natasha Barnes. We talked about how each of us has changed as climbers from gaining muscle mass, how Natasha balances training for climbing with powerlifting, how powerlifting has made her a more patient athlete, encouraging vs. forcing adaptation, separating performing and training, and each of our climbing goals. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The ful...
Oct 28, 2021•23 min
Tom Herbert is known as the usefulcoach , and is a leader in climbing sports nutrition. We talked about common themes in clients he works with, his philosophy of getting climbers to eat more calories to support a higher training volume, muscle protein synthesis, carbohydrate recommendations and timing, food quality, leucine supplementation, and much more. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Bryan Fast (he's the first one!) Become a Pat...
Oct 25, 2021•3 hr 36 min
Craig DeMartino is a rock climber, motivational speaker, and teacher. His life changed in 2002 when he took a 100-foot ground fall. We talked about Craig’s accident and recovery , the decision to amputate his leg, climbing harder than ever after the accident, doing El Cap in a day, dealing with chronic pain, teaching adaptive climbing, and embracing a new normal. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/ep...
Oct 18, 2021•3 hr 44 min
Josh Wharton is one of the most badass climbers you’ve never heard of. He does it all at an elite level. We talked about tips for hard flashing and onsighting, how alpine climbing relates to rock climbing, training to flash El Cap, the value of taking risks in life, being a climbing parent, climbing in Pakistan, how to find an adventure without flying overseas, and the benefits of stiff shoes. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show ...
Oct 11, 2021•2 hr 16 min
In Q&A 3, I tackle patron questions about my two most successful winters of training on my home wall back in Bend, how my training has evolved and what it looks like now, how to maintain strength while living on the road and climbing full-time, advice for nomadic living, life mottos, try-hard mindset, hair dye, M&Ms, singalong jams, and much more. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing One-On-One Consultations: thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episo...
Oct 04, 2021•1 hr 3 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Allison Vest . We talked about her sends of ‘Throwin’ the Houlihan’ and ‘Rodeo Free Europe’ (both 5.14a) at the Wild Iris, how she trained her fingers for the savage monos, stories and laughs from her road trip with Alex Johnson , rapping, reciting the Periodic Table of Elements in under 45 seconds, music collaborations, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the...
Sep 30, 2021•15 min
Ben Ditto is a professional climber and photographer from Bishop, California. We talked about Ben’s upbringing and early climbing, competing against Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell, falling in love with the mountains, Dynafit dangling and near-death experiences, advice for aspiring photographers, The Adventures of the Dodo , and climbing ‘Father Time’ with his wife Katie Lambert . You can learn more about Ben at bendittophoto.com Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron...
Sep 27, 2021•3 hr 49 min
Alejandra (Alita) Contreras is a half Colombian half Venezualan professional rock climber, coach, and translator. We talked about the economic situation in Venezuela and why she moved to Colombia six years ago, about living in Germany and translating training books by Udo Neumann , about coaching women, our global climbing family, and her current 5.14a project. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/epis...
Sep 20, 2021•2 hr 46 min
Dylan Barks is an elite-level boulder and sport climber, and a dark horse in the climbing scene. He sent ‘Creature from the Black Lagoon’ , his first V16, just two weeks after this interview. We talked about how Dylan uses a spray wall for 95% of his training, how he prepares for both bouldering and sport climbing trips, and about recovering from an eating disorder to climb his hardest ever. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show No...
Sep 13, 2021•2 hr 42 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Steve Maisch . We talked about the aerobic system and oxygen testing with Tyler Nelson , how to maintain climbing fitness during mountain biking season, my summer training program and my plan for the fall and winter, how Steve is preparing for his own trip to Hueco this winter, and we did a listener Q&A from our last episode . Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!...
Sep 09, 2021•42 min
Emil Abrahamsson is an elite boulderer, route setter, and YouTuber from Sweden. We talked about goal setting and projecting his first V15 as a V9 climber, the importance of psych and inspiration, experimenting with hangboarding two times per day, how to do one-arm pullups, sharing the experience of outdoor climbing through films, and making a living through his YouTube channel . Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenugge...
Sep 06, 2021•2 hr 3 min
Boone Speed is a photographer, innovator, and was the first American to climb 5.14b with his route ‘Super Tweak’ in Logan Canyon, UT. We talked about Boone’s upbringing, discovering climbing in American Fork, most memorable routes and trips, bolting and training in the Hell Cave, creating the Grasshopper Board , and his vision for the future of artificial climbing. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/...
Aug 30, 2021•3 hr 32 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Nathan Hadley . We talked about his recent 10-day trip to RMNP, in which he sent ‘The Honeymoon is Over’ and flashed the ‘Gambler’s Fallacy’ on The Diamond. We talked about how Nathan prepared for the trip, how he and his partner Mike Kerzhner sussed ‘The Honeymoon’, and the day of the send. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:36....
Aug 28, 2021•19 min
