In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith go over the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. The conversation emphasizes the need for a personalized approach to training, including a needs analysis to determine the most...
Jul 01, 2025•1 hr 8 min•Season 3Ep. 4
In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Josh Foster discuss meniscal injuries in rock climbers. They explain what a meniscal injury is and how climbers can injure their meniscus. They discuss the signs and symptoms of a meniscal injury and how it is diagnosed and treated. They also outline a rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries, including exercises to restore range of motion and strengthen the muscles around the knee. They emphasize the importance of proper movement patterns and provide climbi...
May 01, 2025•39 min•Season 3Ep. 3
In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how to test ankle mobility and function, as well as how to tease out the different systems involved in balance. Dr. Hedges offers tips for train...
Mar 01, 2025•51 min•Season 3Ep. 2
In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her approach to rehab, which includes gradually building mobility and strength in a progressive manner. They emphasize the need for individualized exercises a...
Jan 01, 2025•36 min•Season 3Ep. 1
This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-inte...
Nov 01, 2024•29 min•Season 2Ep. 6
In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and the role of physical therapy exercises in concussion recovery. The key takeaways include wearing a helmet, resting for no more than 48 hours, and seeking pro...
Sep 01, 2024•37 min•Season 2Ep. 5
In this episode, we invite Evan Ingerson back o the show to discuss the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and provides guidelines for their treatment and rehabilitation. He emphasizes the importance of rest and proper loading techniques in the heal...
Jul 01, 2024•35 min•Season 2Ep. 4
In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can...
May 02, 2024•34 min•Season 2Ep. 3
In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses...
Mar 01, 2024•52 min•Season 2Ep. 2
In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and c...
Jan 01, 2024•36 min•Season 2Ep. 1
Listen In this interview The Climbing Doctor talks with world class trainer and climber, Patrick Matros. Patrick holds a master's degree in sport and educational sciences, is the author of two climbing books, including the worldwide bestseller GimmeKraft!, and has trained some of the top climbers in the world, such as Alex Megos and Margo Hayes. This episode covers: Climbing/training trends Analyzing a climber and creating/implementing a performance plan Coaching philosophy and working with Alex...
Dec 05, 2023•49 min•Season 1Ep. 13
Listen Arno Ilgner is a distinguished rock climber and first ascensionist, perhaps most well known as the author of The Rock Warrior's Way. Through his best selling work, Arno outlines his methodologies emphasizing mental training to help his students and readers improve their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. In this interview with The Climbing Doctor, Arno discusses his histor...
Nov 04, 2023•43 min•Season 1Ep. 12
Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor Interviews 4-time Climbing World Cup Champion Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, delving into her personal routines, coaching philosophies, favorite climbing drills, and how she has managed to maintain her health through a lifetime of tough climbing. This episode covers: Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou intro Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's thoughts on family and what motivates/inspires her Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's warm up routine Team management/warm up in team setting...
Oct 05, 2023•28 min•Season 1Ep. 11
Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews Tom Randall! Tom is the founder of, as well as coach of Lattice Training, a comprehensive training platform for rock climbing. Watch as Tom pulls from his vast experiences as a high level climber and coach to discuss training methodology, injury prevention, and more! This episode covers: How Tom started and developed his training Developing Lattice Training Tom's experiences with personal injury Common injuries and mistakes Shoulder resiliency...
Sep 05, 2023•45 min•Season 1Ep. 9
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Kris Hampton on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep on Kris's experience with shoulder and hamstring injuries, what he does to climb strong without getting hurt, common technique errors with climbing, and balancing technique drills with hard climbing. This episode covers: Shoulder injuries and climbing specific rehab Hamstring injuries when rock climbing What do you do to avoid injuries Common climbing errors related to performance H...
Aug 04, 2023•45 min•Season 1Ep. 8
Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews world class climbing coach, Dicki Korb -- trainer of Alex Megos and co-author of the best selling climbing book, Gimme Kraft! Watch as Dicki shares his thoughts and methodologies from his 37 years of climbing! This episode covers: Gimme Kraft! and sharing training methods Contemporary training Dicki's go to exercises, warm up tips, and movement practice/preparation Challenges, risks, and considerations with modern competition climbing Finger t...
Jul 05, 2023•57 min•Season 1Ep. 7
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Tenaya athlete Felipe Camargo on all topics related to injuries. This interview was part of the “Behind the Send” campaign by Tenaya, sharing the stories of those who make the climbing life possible, from route developers, coaches, and physios to mountain guides, mentors, and advocates. This episode covers: Felipe’s history of finger injuries and prevention exercises Finger intrinsic strength Finger warm-up strategies for climbing Tips and tricks to keep ...
Jun 05, 2023•59 min•Season 1Ep. 6
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Eric Hörst on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep in to tips to reduce injuries, warm-up routines, shoulder stability training, posterior chain exercises, finger health and maintenance, wrist strength, and a few final thoughts on how to climb injury-free. This episode covers: General tips that help you lower injury risk Describe your own personal climbing warm-up Describe the importance of training the shoulders Go-to Exercises for t...
May 05, 2023•1 hr 7 min•Season 1Ep. 5
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Arc'Teryx athlete Jonathan Siegrist about his experience with injuring and rehabilitating his Grade III AC joint rock climbing. This interview occurred in 2020, 5 weeks after Jonathan had a grade III AC sprain. After diligent therapy and several months, Jonathan returned to full strength climbing. He continued to train and shortly after, he sent his most challenging project yet. This episode covers: Taping techniques for AC joint sprain Early range of mot...
Apr 05, 2023•55 min•Season 1Ep. 4
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Steve Bechtel on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep on training mistakes that are common with climbers, training exercises, power exercises for climbing performance, climbing assessments, inside elbow pain, and how to warm up the hands and fingers for climbing. This episode covers: Mistakes and errors that climbers make with training What are your biases of types of exercises that climbers should use to train How important is lower ...
Mar 05, 2023•43 min•Season 1Ep. 3
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Udo Neumann on all topics related to climbing and injuries! Climbing since 1982, Udo has written multiple books on rock climbing, and has served in roles as both German bouldering coach and advisor to various climbing federations. Take notes, because there is a wealth of information to be had from this climbing legend! This episode covers: Udo's career as a climber, researcher, coach, and federation member Udo's take on warm up routines The visual system ...
Feb 05, 2023•1 hr 7 min•Season 1Ep. 2
In this interview, The Climbing Doctor talks climbing movement with an expert on the subject, John Kettle! John is an experienced coach of over 20 years and is the author of "Rock Climbing Technique." Listen to this episode to learn about John's journey with injuries and how he applies movement to improve climbing performance. This episode covers: John Kettle's battle with finger injury and subsequent management John Kettle's approach to managing his shoulders Further injury history and manageme...
Jan 04, 2023•56 min•Season 1Ep. 1
