How Pro Climbers Manage Injuries - Felipe Camargo

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Tenaya athlete Felipe Camargo on all topics related to injuries. This interview was part of the “Behind the Send” campaign by Tenaya, sharing the stories of those who make the climbing life possible, from route developers, coaches, and physios to mountain guides, mentors, and advocates. This episode covers:

• Felipe’s history of finger injuries and prevention exercises
• Finger intrinsic strength 
• Finger warm-up strategies for climbing
• Tips and tricks to keep the fingers strong for climbing 
• Anatomy of the pulleys and pulley protection ring
• Rehabilitation exercises for pulley injuries
• The variation behind the side and length of climbers’ digits 
• Problem solving the mechanics of Felipe’s injuries related to gripping

Felipe was born in Ribeiro Preto, Sao Paulo, Brazil, in 1991. He began climbing at the age of 10 in a small, local rock-gym, and only a few years later, at the age of 15, won his first Brazilian Championship, an achievement he repeated 5 times, as he did with the South American Championship. On rock, he established Brazil’s first V15 (8C) boulder problem and is the first South American climber to reach both 9a+ and 8C grades. Felipe has also become a top exponent of high grade multi-pitch climbs, as illustrated by his second ascent of ‘Corazón de Ensueño’ (250 metros, 8c) in China’s Gethu region.

Website:

• https://blog.tenaya.net/en/2020/12/15...