Episode description
Welcome to Part 2 of Garrett McNamara, a legendary surfer who owns a world record for the largest wave ever surfed – 100 feet tall – which is the equivalent of the 10-story office building or the height of Niagara Falls.
He is the first person ever to ride a wave created by breaking glaciers.
Garrett is the author of the book “Hound of the Sea: Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom.” and the star of the fantastic HBO documentary TV series called “100 Foot Wave”.
He is also a dedicated philanthropist. Garrett and his wife, Nicole, started an amazing Waves of Life McNamara Foundation, which helps kids to discover nature and be more environmentally conscious and self-sufficient, with a particular focus on disadvantaged kids.
In this episode, we are talking about the big waves in Portugal, his team and preparation process, how to face the fear of death, his McNamara Foundation and so much more!
10:10 Surfing big waves at 50/60 miles per hour
- Extremely dangerous
- If there's no wind and it's glassy and smooth
12:38 Coming to Nazare in Portugal
- In 2005, got an email from Dino in Nazare, Portugal
- Emailed Larry Hamilton first, then Carlos Burle
- Garrett replied right away
15:40 How does a big wave form?
- The many variables that go into a wave
- In Portugal, waves are formed by a shelf 30-60 feet deep
- Coming of the swell
- Rogue wave at the shore
- Waiting on the wave and the thought process
- How to know if it’s a big wave
23:54 Garrett’s team and what they do
- Nicole, his wife
- Safety drivers, trainers
- First responder, ambulance, fireman, lifeguards
- Videographers
- Partners and sponsors
- Lawyers and advisers
- It’s all about surrounding yourself with people with the same goals
27:05 Training and diet for big wave surfing
- Training can be focused or open
- People aren’t drinking or doing drugs
- Training 3-7 days a week
- Garrett's current training regimen
- Garrett has tried all the diets
- Loves a good organic, grass-fed, free-range steak, chicken and fish
37:12 Facing death and the fear of dying
- Never lost a tow surfer until last year in Nazare
- Probably drowned, but the results of the autopsy didn’t come out
- Big wave surfing deaths were many throughout the years
- Every big wave is different
- When you get pounded, the main thing is to relax and enjoy it
- You have zero control you have you're at the mercy of the ocean
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