You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send. But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings! Tim and Josh tackle the problem of doubt creep and how to find actual success during your attempts. SHOW NOTES: Testpiece Patreon Ryuchi Almost Sending Bon Voyage with James Pearson and...
Apr 29, 2024•1 hr 58 min•Ep. 96
Palmer Larsen is one of the top coaches in the country. This podcast has soooooooooo many helpful tips and frameworks to get you to the next level. DO NOT MISS his description of how to foster an environment for long term success via deliberate practice @ ~1:28! He is the head coach of Momentum Climbing Team, in SLC, one of the top climbing teams in the country. He oversees 80 kids every week AND the coaches! Palmer is also an extremely accomplished athlete. He has been competing at a high-level...
Apr 22, 2024•2 hr 12 min•Ep. 95
What is the best way to approach a climb? It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time. Announcement!! $5 Patron’s now have access to all Classroom recordings via Spotify, or through the Patreon app! That’s 20+ hours of NEW content solving the climbing problems we all have! Go to P...
Apr 15, 2024•1 hr 52 min•Ep. 94
Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸 Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s important to climb hard but not everything. Then we go deep into hangboarding. Seriously Deep. Allison also tells us about the transition from Competition...
Apr 08, 2024•2 hr 9 min•Ep. 93
Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like. They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there is a rant. There’s always at least one rant. SHOW NOTES: GoFundme for Adriene Felipe Hoo Beastmaking Book Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...
Apr 01, 2024•1 hr 48 min•Ep. 92
That's right ladies and gentlemen -- Jimmy Webb ! Jimmy is one of the best climbers our sport has ever scene, and one of the humblest and kindest climbers as well. Please enjoy this wide ranging but always fantastic chat with Jimmy Webb. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...
Mar 25, 2024•2 hr 24 min•Ep. 91
The topics are in the title! A big focus on what Tim is “re-learning” as he comes back from his serious knee injury. SHOW NOTES: Team Trials Instagram Post by Ryan Paul Robinson on Hueco Rock Rodeo Nathaniel Flashing Scarface Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...
Mar 18, 2024•1 hr 40 min•Ep. 90
Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old! Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher. In this episode he shares: How to gain limit strength, rather than just getting tired. The best way to project climbs (he's famous for his decade plus projecting ability). How he's said "No" to naysayers his whole life and proved them wrong. The way to avoid, and deal with, ...
Mar 11, 2024•2 hr 30 min•Ep. 89
Tim’s back at it and with a big smile. Hear how he’s been returning to his peak strength after injury. Tim also talks about how he coaches clients through plateaus. Big shout outs to the crews that make life special for Tim and Josh and what they did to help them be their best. Bosi repeats ROTSW, and just about every other hard thing in the world. And Josh reports back on the project Tim coached him through in the last episode. SHOW NOTES: Felipe Hoo’s Famous 360 Kilterboard Send Daniel Woods o...
Mar 04, 2024•1 hr 45 min•Ep. 88
Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at ~20m / 60ft! Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chris Sharma. Since he is often the guy behind the camera we asked him to share some tips for any aspiring climbing film makers and he fully delievered! Last, but certainly not least, he takes us to Ceuse to tell us about the interesting things he learned from climbing the iconi...
Feb 26, 2024•1 hr 53 min•Ep. 87
Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all! Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that we all are striving for. SHOW NOTES: 2017 V8 / 7B+ on Moonboard 2016 Set Podcast #33 with Andy Tollefson Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...
Feb 19, 2024•1 hr 46 min•Ep. 86
The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi ! Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind so that he is able to climb them. Keenan also has created one of the coolest new brands in climbing, ANTIGRAV , that embodies his psyche and ethos for climbing. SHOW NOTES: ANTIGRAV Creative Visualization [Book] A Little Life [Movie] Express Yourself [Song] Physics Hyperbole [Squamish Climb] Keenan J...
Feb 12, 2024•2 hr 14 min•Ep. 85
2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop. Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing rock again? Hear more from Tim about what a session is like when multiple V16 climbers get together to try the hardest boulders in the world. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...
Feb 05, 2024•2 hr 3 min•Ep. 84
Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world! How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his teeth on his local crags like ...
Jan 29, 2024•1 hr 51 min•Ep. 83
Tim shares a common problem that holds people back that he sees in even some of the top athletes he coaches. They jokingly call it "Vomit Mouth". Learn about what this is and how you can make sure to avoid it in your sessions. SHOW NOTES: Noah Wheeler on Sleepwalker Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...
Jan 22, 2024•1 hr 56 min•Ep. 82
Carlo Traversi is back to tell us about his recent FA of The Dark Side V16 (suggested grade) in Yosemite. Josh thinks this FA will go down in the history books as THE testpiece of our generation in Yosemite bouldering. Tune in and see what you think. Carlo explains the incredible tactics he had to employ to get this FA done. It was absolutely mindblowing how detailed he got to make this send happen. A true example of Mastery. SHOW NOTES: The Dark Side Instagram Post Valley Uprising Yabo Roof Sup...
Jan 15, 2024•2 hr 16 min•Ep. 81
Happy New Year, my dude. Tim and Josh get meta about how to have the best 2024 possible by asking the question — why can’t all sessions be good ones? SHOW NOTES: Mastery by Robert Greene Atomic Habits by James Clear Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...
Jan 08, 2024•1 hr 40 min•Ep. 80
Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher are West Coast bouldering OG’s. They started climbing 3 decades ago and were part of the birth of modern HARD bouldering. Tune in to hear about the early days of bouldering and how it set the tone for what’s going on today. There’s tons of can’t miss stories about young Chris Sharma and what Hueco, Bishop, and Font were like in the 90’s. We are so grateful to get to share their stories and not have them lost to history! SHOW NOTES: West Coast Pimp by Steve Montesant...
Jan 01, 2024•2 hr 8 min•Ep. 79
F*CK! Tim busted his knee. Not the best way to spend the holidays... The main topic for this episode is what Kids do better than Adults, and what Adults do better than Kids. Tim and Josh also talk about the latest ascents of two previous Testpiece Guests -- Defying Gravity by Nathaniel Coleman , and Sleepwalker by Zach Galla . This leads into a discussion about the demonstration of strength while climbing and how it has or hasn't evolved over the years. SHOW NOTES: Nathaniel Coleman, Defyin...
Dec 25, 2023•2 hr 3 min•Ep. 78
Zach Galla has been ticking off some of the hardest boulders in America while simultaneously competing at the highest level. He’s always vying for the podium in any US competition and has spent time on the World Cup circuit as well. Zach goes deep on this podcast about what it’s really like to compete at these high level comps. What the setting is like, how the scoring works, and why it can be frustrating but rewarding too. We also talk about his love of outdoor climbing and how he balances this...
Dec 18, 2023•1 hr 52 min•Ep. 77
Why do we call board climbing “not technical”? What does this really mean? Board climbing wasn’t the planned topic of the day, but once Tim and Josh get talking about boards they have a hard time stopping! Then Tim and Josh talk about being the Conductor of your climbing, and how/when to employ two major mindsets during your sessions. SHOW NOTES: Steve Rader doing AR Moonboard Masters 2019 The Conductor by The Faint Nilo Batle’s Coaching Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our pod...
Dec 11, 2023•2 hr 13 min•Ep. 76
Jesse Grupper recently punched his ticket to Paris 2024 as part of the men’s USA Olympic team! This is on top of his already incredible last few years with multiple gold medal wins at the WC, an incredible flash of Livin’ Astro (14c), AND his flash of Pure Imagination (14c) just the day before recording! Jesse is on a tear at comps, outdoors, on lead, on boulders… on everything! Jesse’s path to securing his spot in the Olympics was anything but straight forward and he shares how a painful failur...
Dec 04, 2023•1 hr 50 min•Ep. 75
Which board is best?! Tim and Josh disagree... but not for the reason you might expect. Spray Wall or Standardized Wall? Wood holds or plastic? What angle? Tim and Josh love board climbing and we know you do too. They dive into the nuances of what makes a board great, and maybe more importantly, who that board is great for. SHOW NOTES: Spraywall vs Standardized Wall Podcast with Will Anglin and Michael Rosato Flo does Floatin (V16) Stokt App Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our...
Nov 27, 2023•2 hr 24 min•Ep. 74
“Motherf*cking Squamish beta, don’t try hard!” — Nalle Hukkataival Squamish is having a renaissance and Ethan Salvo is part of the team of young guns making it happen. Him and his crew are repeating the hardest boulders Squamish has, and adding their new ones to the list. And that’s special, because these boulders just don’t get done very often. Not by locals. Not by pro’s. Not be anyone other than absolute technical masters. That’s because Squamish is different. The technical ability to climb h...
Nov 20, 2023•2 hr 8 min•Ep. 73
How much would you pay to smoke a joint with Chris Sharma? What about have Daniel Woods be your sommelier for the night? Tim and Josh start off by talking about Sean Bailey’s viral post about his struggles making it as a Pro Climber. For the ‘Topic of the Day’, Tim and Josh share tips and tricks on how to shift into Outdoor climbing mode after a long hot summer spent in the gym. SHOW NOTES: Sean Bailey’s Instagram Post Dave Graham’s (The Wizard) new V16 Music Mentioned: Slipknot Raining Again, b...
Nov 13, 2023•2 hr 5 min•Ep. 72
Roman Yalowitz is here and he’s going to break your projects and crush your dreams, just like he did to Josh 😭. Actually… Roman has been doing the complete opposite in Tahoe for the last 10 years! He is a prolific developer that is leading the new “Golden Era” going on in Tahoe right now. Roman, Jimmy Webb, and a handful of other world class climbers (including past guest David Fitzgerald), have been putting up some of the hardest blocks in America. And they’re just getting started! Hear more a...
Nov 06, 2023•2 hr 6 min•Ep. 71
The routesetting at your gym is the one of the main ingredients of getting you better at climbing. Does your gym have bad, good, or great routesetting? Do you even know the difference? What do you do if your gym’s setting sucks?! Tim and Josh also address some of the latest V16 downgrades as well as some controversy over a comment Josh made about “cheating”. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HER...
Oct 30, 2023•2 hr 16 min•Ep. 70
Andy Lamb has climbed multiple V16’s, flashed multiple V13’s, and placed as high as 3rd in Bouldering Nationals. But you’ve probably never heard of him because he’s not a professional climber, his Instagram is rarely updated, and his 8a scorecard is pseudonymous. And yes, Andy and Katie Lamb are brother and sister! Hear Andy’s unique path in climbing that is more relatable than other V16 climbers. SHOW NOTES: Paradox of Choice "Most people overestimate what they can do in 1 year and underes...
Oct 23, 2023•2 hr 6 min•Ep. 69
First go best go! Tim and Josh talk about flashing as a specific form of climbing. What it shows about the grade of a climb, what it shows about the climber, how to get better at flashing, and also the ethics behind a legitimate flash. Listen in as Tim completely changes Josh’s mind on flashing and then find out Josh’s best tip for flashing hard that he got from past guest, Carlo Traversi. SHOW NOTES: Martin Keller sending V16 @ 45 Shawn and Brooke Raboutou on the Moonboard Shawn Raboutou Flashi...
Oct 16, 2023•2 hr 28 min•Ep. 68
History has been made — Katie Lamb is officially the first woman in the world to climb V16, Box Therapy! Katie is an absolute master of the mental game for high level climbing. She treated us with a detailed breakdown of exactly what she does. How to approach projecting, how to make each try count, and the importance of persistence. The podcasts starts out with Katie sharing with us the vision of climbing that she loves. What has inspired her since she was young, and how she has chosen to pursue...
Oct 09, 2023•2 hr 20 min•Ep. 67
