Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old! Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher. In this episode he shares: How to gain limit strength, rather than just getting tired. The best way to project climbs (he's famous for his decade plus projecting ability). How he's said "No" to naysayers his whole life and proved them wrong. The way to avoid, and deal with, injury. What the big diff...
Mar 11, 2024•2 hr 30 min•Ep. 89
Tim’s back at it and with a big smile. Hear how he’s been returning to his peak strength after injury. Tim also talks about how he coaches clients through plateaus. Big shout outs to the crews that make life special for Tim and Josh and what they did to help them be their best. Bosi repeats ROTSW, and just about every other hard thing in the world. And Josh reports back on the project Tim coached him through in the last episode. SHOW NOTES: Felipe Hoo’s Famous 360 Kilterboard Send Daniel Woods o...
Mar 04, 2024•1 hr 45 min•Ep. 88
Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at ~20m / 60ft! Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chris Sharma. Since he is often the guy behind the camera we asked him to share some tips for any aspiring climbing film makers and he fully delievered! Last, but certainly not least, he takes us to Ceuse to tell us about the interesting things he learned from climbing the iconi...
Feb 26, 2024•1 hr 53 min•Ep. 87
Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all! Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that we all are striving for. SHOW NOTES: 2017 V8 / 7B+ on Moonboard 2016 Set Podcast #33 with Andy Tollefson Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Feb 19, 2024•1 hr 46 min•Ep. 86
The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi ! Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind so that he is able to climb them. Keenan also has created one of the coolest new brands in climbing, ANTIGRAV , that embodies his psyche and ethos for climbing. SHOW NOTES: ANTIGRAV Creative Visualization [Book] A Little Life [Movie] Express Yourself [Song] Physics Hyperbole [Squamish Climb] Keenan J...
Feb 12, 2024•2 hr 14 min•Ep. 85
2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop. Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing rock again? Hear more from Tim about what a session is like when multiple V16 climbers get together to try the hardest boulders in the world. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Feb 05, 2024•2 hr 3 min•Ep. 84
Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world! How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his teeth on his local crags like ...
Jan 29, 2024•1 hr 51 min•Ep. 83
Tim shares a common problem that holds people back that he sees in even some of the top athletes he coaches. They jokingly call it "Vomit Mouth". Learn about what this is and how you can make sure to avoid it in your sessions. SHOW NOTES: Noah Wheeler on Sleepwalker Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Jan 22, 2024•1 hr 56 min•Ep. 82
Carlo Traversi is back to tell us about his recent FA of The Dark Side V16 (suggested grade) in Yosemite. Josh thinks this FA will go down in the history books as THE testpiece of our generation in Yosemite bouldering. Tune in and see what you think. Carlo explains the incredible tactics he had to employ to get this FA done. It was absolutely mindblowing how detailed he got to make this send happen. A true example of Mastery. SHOW NOTES: The Dark Side Instagram Post Valley Uprising Yabo Roof Joi...
Jan 15, 2024•2 hr 16 min•Ep. 81
Happy New Year, my dude. Tim and Josh get meta about how to have the best 2024 possible by asking the question — why can’t all sessions be good ones? SHOW NOTES: Mastery by Robert Greene Atomic Habits by James Clear Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Jan 08, 2024•1 hr 40 min•Ep. 80
Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher are West Coast bouldering OG’s. They started climbing 3 decades ago and were part of the birth of modern HARD bouldering. Tune in to hear about the early days of bouldering and how it set the tone for what’s going on today. There’s tons of can’t miss stories about young Chris Sharma and what Hueco, Bishop, and Font were like in the 90’s. We are so grateful to get to share their stories and not have them lost to history! SHOW NOTES: West Coast Pimp by Steve Montesant...
Jan 01, 2024•2 hr 8 min•Ep. 79
F*CK! Tim busted his knee. Not the best way to spend the holidays... The main topic for this episode is what Kids do better than Adults, and what Adults do better than Kids. Tim and Josh also talk about the latest ascents of two previous Testpiece Guests -- Defying Gravity by Nathaniel Coleman , and Sleepwalker by Zach Galla . This leads into a discussion about the demonstration of strength while climbing and how it has or hasn't evolved over the years. SHOW NOTES: Nathaniel Coleman, Defying Gra...
Dec 25, 2023•2 hr 3 min•Ep. 78
Zach Galla has been ticking off some of the hardest boulders in America while simultaneously competing at the highest level. He’s always vying for the podium in any US competition and has spent time on the World Cup circuit as well. Zach goes deep on this podcast about what it’s really like to compete at these high level comps. What the setting is like, how the scoring works, and why it can be frustrating but rewarding too. We also talk about his love of outdoor climbing and how he balances this...
Dec 18, 2023•1 hr 52 min•Ep. 77
Why do we call board climbing “not technical”? What does this really mean? Board climbing wasn’t the planned topic of the day, but once Tim and Josh get talking about boards they have a hard time stopping! Then Tim and Josh talk about being the Conductor of your climbing, and how/when to employ two major mindsets during your sessions. SHOW NOTES: Steve Rader doing AR Moonboard Masters 2019 The Conductor by The Faint Nilo Batle’s Coaching Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our ...
Dec 11, 2023•2 hr 13 min•Ep. 76
Jesse Grupper recently punched his ticket to Paris 2024 as part of the men’s USA Olympic team! This is on top of his already incredible last few years with multiple gold medal wins at the WC, an incredible flash of Livin’ Astro (14c), AND his flash of Pure Imagination (14c) just the day before recording! Jesse is on a tear at comps, outdoors, on lead, on boulders… on everything! Jesse’s path to securing his spot in the Olympics was anything but straight forward and he shares how a painful failur...
Dec 04, 2023•1 hr 50 min•Ep. 75
Which board is best?! Tim and Josh disagree... but not for the reason you might expect. Spray Wall or Standardized Wall? Wood holds or plastic? What angle? Tim and Josh love board climbing and we know you do too. They dive into the nuances of what makes a board great, and maybe more importantly, who that board is great for. SHOW NOTES: Spraywall vs Standardized Wall Podcast with Will Anglin and Michael Rosato Flo does Floatin (V16) Stokt App Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit ...
Nov 27, 2023•2 hr 24 min•Ep. 74
“Motherf*cking Squamish beta, don’t try hard!” — Nalle Hukkataival Squamish is having a renaissance and Ethan Salvo is part of the team of young guns making it happen. Him and his crew are repeating the hardest boulders Squamish has, and adding their new ones to the list. And that’s special, because these boulders just don’t get done very often. Not by locals. Not by pro’s. Not be anyone other than absolute technical masters. That’s because Squamish is different. The technical ability to climb h...
Nov 20, 2023•2 hr 8 min•Ep. 73
How much would you pay to smoke a joint with Chris Sharma? What about have Daniel Woods be your sommelier for the night? Tim and Josh start off by talking about Sean Bailey’s viral post about his struggles making it as a Pro Climber. For the ‘Topic of the Day’, Tim and Josh share tips and tricks on how to shift into Outdoor climbing mode after a long hot summer spent in the gym. SHOW NOTES: Sean Bailey’s Instagram Post Dave Graham’s (The Wizard) new V16 Music Mentioned: Slipknot Raining Again, b...
Nov 13, 2023•2 hr 5 min•Ep. 72
Roman Yalowitz is here and he’s going to break your projects and crush your dreams, just like he did to Josh 😭. Actually… Roman has been doing the complete opposite in Tahoe for the last 10 years! He is a prolific developer that is leading the new “Golden Era” going on in Tahoe right now. Roman, Jimmy Webb, and a handful of other world class climbers (including past guest David Fitzgerald), have been putting up some of the hardest blocks in America. And they’re just getting started! Hear more a...
Nov 06, 2023•2 hr 6 min•Ep. 71
The routesetting at your gym is the one of the main ingredients of getting you better at climbing. Does your gym have bad, good, or great routesetting? Do you even know the difference? What do you do if your gym’s setting sucks?! Tim and Josh also address some of the latest V16 downgrades as well as some controversy over a comment Josh made about “cheating”. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Oct 30, 2023•2 hr 16 min•Ep. 70
Andy Lamb has climbed multiple V16’s, flashed multiple V13’s, and placed as high as 3rd in Bouldering Nationals. But you’ve probably never heard of him because he’s not a professional climber, his Instagram is rarely updated, and his 8a scorecard is pseudonymous. And yes, Andy and Katie Lamb are brother and sister! Hear Andy’s unique path in climbing that is more relatable than other V16 climbers. SHOW NOTES: Paradox of Choice "Most people overestimate what they can do in 1 year and underestimat...
Oct 23, 2023•2 hr 6 min•Ep. 69
First go best go! Tim and Josh talk about flashing as a specific form of climbing. What it shows about the grade of a climb, what it shows about the climber, how to get better at flashing, and also the ethics behind a legitimate flash. Listen in as Tim completely changes Josh’s mind on flashing and then find out Josh’s best tip for flashing hard that he got from past guest, Carlo Traversi. SHOW NOTES: Martin Keller sending V16 @ 45 Shawn and Brooke Raboutou on the Moonboard Shawn Raboutou Flashi...
Oct 16, 2023•2 hr 28 min•Ep. 68
History has been made — Katie Lamb is officially the first woman in the world to climb V16, Box Therapy! Katie is an absolute master of the mental game for high level climbing. She treated us with a detailed breakdown of exactly what she does. How to approach projecting, how to make each try count, and the importance of persistence. The podcasts starts out with Katie sharing with us the vision of climbing that she loves. What has inspired her since she was young, and how she has chosen to pursue...
Oct 09, 2023•2 hr 20 min•Ep. 67
Tim and Josh chat about Yosemite bouldering, gym climbing, bad setting, and the hard truth that just because you’ve climbed V8, doesn’t mean you’re a V8 climber. Then Tim and Josh answer some of the burning questions from listeners: When and how-to session with the local strong crew. How to deal with all the training advice on social media that is sometimes contradictory. How to handle with “morpho” climbs, and what to do if you are on the shorter or taller end of the spectrum. SHOW NOTES: Becom...
Oct 02, 2023•1 hr 54 min•Ep. 66
When Mike Heinstein speaks about the climbing world, we listen. That’s because Mike is an extremely successful entrepreneur with more experience in business than perhaps anyone in climbing 🤯. Mike has always been a life long climber and now that he’s done with his previous business, Art.com , he has set his sights on the world of climbing by opening up the innovative Mosaic Boulders in Berkeley, CA. But the best thing about Mike is that he is genuinely here to help. He freely shares all of his ...
Sep 25, 2023•1 hr 18 min•Ep. 65
How do you fit it all in when you are busy? How do you decide what is important and what isn’t? What if you show up feeling like crap? This podcast is all about how to deal with the realities of a busy life while still progressing in your climbing. Tim and Josh have different approaches because they have different lives. Tim is a pro-climber who has to travel often and struggles to have a set schedule. Josh works a lot and has a family which means his schedule is always short on free time. But t...
Sep 18, 2023•1 hr 53 min•Ep. 64
Holy sh!t folks, this one was special. Nathaniel Coleman went deep on this pod in a way he hasn’t before elsewhere. He's an Olympic Silver Medalist, a 3x National Bouldering Champion (in a row!), and he FA'd the iconic Grand Illusion, a V16. Just one of these things would cement him as one of the top climbers in our sport. In the podcast Nathaniel shares what is actually going through his mind when he’s competing on the biggest stages, and the approach he uses when things don’t go as planned. He...
Sep 11, 2023•2 hr 16 min•Ep. 63
You're Training Wrong, my dude. Maybe... In this podcast, Tim and Josh ask the question "Are we thinking about training all wrong?" This topic goes into the current state of "#Training", and figuring out how to answer The Fundamental Question: "How do we get better at climbing?". Spoiler -- It's not a simple question. As Will Anglin says: "Climbing is hard." Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Sep 04, 2023•1 hr 54 min•Ep. 62
Eric Jerome has multiple V15 FA’, he is a prolific developer, and he works in the climbing industry at KAYA . But what made us want to talk to Eric on this podcast was his pursuit of the BEST boulders. Who doesn’t want to climb the best boulders?! First Eric had to answer the question “What makes one boulder better than another?” Join us on this journey as we dive deep into the origin of the “Star” system, and how to apply it. Then go to Eric’s website: Top100 to see the best boulders, and follo...
Aug 28, 2023•2 hr 19 min•Ep. 61
Sequencing is one of the core abilities we must develop as climbers. It starts with the macro, but if you want to really solve that crux you have to go into the micro details. But learning how to know where to look for efficiencies in the micro is hard. Tim and Josh try to demystify this process and show how to figure out where to eek out tiny bits of help in order to unlock that seemingly impossible crux move. Oh ya, and there’s lots of normal banter and general psyche that all of the episodes ...
Aug 21, 2023•2 hr 5 min•Ep. 60
