An absolutely EPIC podcast with Will Anglin, one of the founder’s of Tension Climbing. Other than creating the coolest climbing brand that every “climber's climber” love, Will has coached for years, smashes V14, and dove deeper into training than most. Tune in to: Hear amazing stories from the legendary training center / “The Shop” at the Tension HQ. This is where the strongest in America get stronger, and has been visited by anyone that’s anyone while traveling through CO. Find out what Will ha...
Aug 14, 2023•2 hr 44 min•Ep. 59
Lot’s of psyche but also some bad news on this one… You can’t miss Tim’s reflections on his “favorite episode” with Jason Kehl! Tim and Josh discuss some of the questions that were brought up in the first Testpiece Classroom. (Join them next month by signing up on Patreon !) The podcast closes with a discussion about board climbing and why so many climbers gravitate towards them instead normal gym climbs. It’s a surprising part of the indoor scene and there’s lessons to be learned from the pheno...
Aug 07, 2023•2 hr 11 min•Ep. 58
This was a dream come true for Josh — hearing straight from Jason Kehl himself about the FA of Evilution! But wait, there’s more. Jason’s impact within the climbing world is second to none. You’ve either climbed on one his FA’s, or climbed on a gym wall he’s designed, or grabbed a grip he shaped. Yes, he’s that prolific. Tune in and hear more from the absolute LEGEND, Jason Kehl! Find more from Jason here: Instagram Real Climbing [YouTube] Hueco Guidebook Hold Shaping Gym Design HYPE Reel Join P...
Jul 31, 2023•1 hr 42 min•Ep. 57
Tim and Josh are extra psyched on climbing right now. They share what’s been going on in their training and the goals they’ve set for themselves. They also share some highlights and lessons learned from the David Fitzgerald interview last week. The topic of the day is about how to maximize your training while dealing with the reality of what facilities you have available. How do you train for a 60m tufa route on a moonboard? Tim and Josh don’t quite agree… but their approaches both have merit an...
Jul 24, 2023•2 hr 9 min•Ep. 56
David Fitzgerald is “one of the most underrated climbers out there” per Jimmy Webb. If that doesn’t make you hit play immediately, keep reading because there’s more… On top of being a v15 climber (v16 soon!) with insane finger strength, he is also an extremely talented editor/videographer. You probably have seen his newest film with Keenan Takahashi, “A Little Life”, and if you haven’t yet… Why not?! In this podcast, David breaks down his training techniques, how his fingers got to be so strong,...
Jul 17, 2023•2 hr 2 min•Ep. 55
The ’23 Boulder WC season is over and it was a banger! Even if comps aren’t your thing we all have a ton to learn from watching the best of the best battle it out. This season had some of the most impressive breakout talent — hear Tim and Josh talk about the 16 year old phenom, Sorato Anraku. And per usual, the pod starts with a review of the most recent guest — Jon Cardwell. There was a lot packed into that episode so Tim and Josh made sure to pull out some of the highlights and share their tak...
Jul 10, 2023•1 hr 45 min•Ep. 54
Jon Cardwell is one of the top sport climbers in the world with multiple 5.15’s sends under his belt. Oh ya, and the 3rd ascent of a legendary V15 you might have heard of, “The Game”. And during this podcast you’ll see why. Jon is introspective, open minded, and relentlessly puts in the work. Join us while he shares how he has figured out how to send hard, and what he has learned from the all star crew he has spent the last 15+ years traveling and climbing with. You also don’t want to miss his w...
Jul 03, 2023•2 hr 6 min•Ep. 53
Most of the time we don’t have a coach sitting behind us giving feedback. So what do you when you are by yourself and stuck? How do you do learn to coach yourself when no one is around? Tim and Josh share how to use video, questions, and friends, to answer the questions “Why?” [did I fall]. Tim shows how this is one of the most important skills to develop in order to get better, forever. They use real examples of routes and boulders they struggled on to show how they were able to progress withou...
Jun 26, 2023•1 hr 53 min•Ep. 52
You care about climbing. I care about climbing. And so does Jamie Emerson. Because Jamie cares so much he is willing to dive into the minutiae to help us define our sport. The How and the Why behind how Jamie does this is fascinating and will hit home to all of us who love climbing so much. Jimmy Webb jokingly called him the “Sheriff” and somehow that nickname stuck. But that one word title doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface of Jamie’s mark on the climbing world. Over the years Jamie has ...
Jun 19, 2023•2 hr 20 min•Ep. 51
Is B-Pumo Ogikubo the best climbing gym is the world? Japan has created some of the strongest climbers in the world, especially in the competition scene, and Tim wanted to know how they did it. So Tim made the pilgrimage to Japan to see what all the chatter was about. He goes into the setting, the holds, the style, and the yakitori. PS -- Here's the tripod Tim mentions in his Pro-Tip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WHLXN6N?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_N00JV2ETQ1EQWCQ68T1R Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on I...
Jun 12, 2023•1 hr 53 min•Ep. 50
You know him, you hate him, Tristan Chen — the ‘Villain’ of climbing! We’re half-joking, Tristan is only the ‘Villain’ because it makes the climbing world more fun and he has opinions that he’s not afraid to share. And make no mistake, these opinions are not just to cause problems — they are well thought through and interesting. The truth is, most high level climbers are already having these conversations about grades and abilities behind closed doors, but Tristan is willing to shine light on wh...
Jun 05, 2023•1 hr 52 min•Ep. 49
Sometimes climbing can be intense. Maybe it’s in competition, maybe it’s being way off the deck and in serious danger, or maybe you just know it’s the last try you have because of skin, conditions, or the end of a trip coming. Tim and Josh share how to handle these situations, and even better, how to prepare yourself for these moments through training. Don’t just hope that you will rise to the moment, use their practical tips and tricks to make sure that you are ready when these times come. Join...
May 30, 2023•1 hr 35 min•Ep. 48
Carlo Traversi ( @carlodenali ) is a professional climber that has mastered every discipline in climbing. 5.14+ trad, 5.15 sport, V16 boulders, USA Nation Team for over a DECADE! Carlo has done it all. On top of this, he founded one of the top gyms in the nation — The Boulder Field . Tune in and learn how Carlo achieved all of this and how you can too. Don’t miss this one. Tim and Josh think it’s one of the best yet! Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
May 22, 2023•1 hr 53 min•Ep. 47
Tim and Josh dig into the topic of injuries. How to avoid them, how to work around them, how to train around them, and the mindset you need to get through them and come back stronger. They both have had their fair share and learned a lot from them. They are often make or break moments in your career, so tune in to hear from our mistakes and the our new best practices. Pro-Tip: Don’t get injured. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
May 15, 2023•1 hr 49 min•Ep. 46
Jared Roth joined Tim and Josh for an epic pod! There was soooo much ground to cover because Jared has done it all in the climbing world. Be sure not to miss his stories about the early days in Bishop and his FA of the iconic Rastaman Vibration (stand start of Lucid Dreaming). But Jared is more than just an OG crusher with some of the best FA’s in America — he also now owns the legendary climbing hold company Pusher. Jared gives us the real behind scenes on making holds, shaping holds, and all t...
May 08, 2023•1 hr 58 min•Ep. 45
Tim and Josh share their takeaways from the last interview with Connor Herson and an interview Tim did for another podcast. Then they discuss some of the drama around hold choice in the latest World Cup. The pod ends with a listener question that focused on community in climbing. How it comes to be, how to build it, how to join one, and the cool communities that Tim and Josh have been a part of over the years. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
May 01, 2023•1 hr 31 min•Ep. 44
Tim and Josh joke that Connor's background of traditional climbing actually makes him Non-Traditional. But this gives him a unique POV compared to others and it makes it all the more fun to hear his take on competitions, bouldering, plastic, trad, etc. Don’t miss this pod, and definitely don’t miss Connor’s recent film released by La Sportiva — “Traditional at Heart” . Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Apr 24, 2023•1 hr 39 min•Ep. 43
Tim and Josh actually do love crimps. Or at least they like them… In this episode they go into each of the different crimp types (open, half, full) and the pro’s and con’s of each one. Then they talk about how and why to utilize each type depending on the hold and movement required. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Apr 17, 2023•1 hr 24 min•Ep. 42
Tim and Josh express their love of slopers and deconstruct the techniques around how to best use them. Slopers can stump a lot of newer, intermediate, and even advanced climbers, but they are the key to unlocking next level climbing technique. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Apr 10, 2023•1 hr 19 min•Ep. 41
Tim and Josh go into the application of Balance and Mechanics: Effort. Tim shows us how Effort is something that is trainable all by itself. Effort is that “jen ne se quois” that MUST be understood and developed in order to become a great climber. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Apr 03, 2023•1 hr 30 min•Ep. 40
Tim and Josh go into the next thing Tim addresses with his clients: Climbing Mechanics. They show the process behind how you can deconstruct hard “stopper” moves to make them as easy as possible. This is fundamental for leveling up your climbing. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Mar 28, 2023•1 hr 27 min•Ep. 39
Balance on the wall is one of the first things Tim goes over with all of his coaching clients. In this episode Tim and Josh go over what balance means in climbing, how to find better positions when you feel ‘off balance’, and how to execute the next move once that position is obtained. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Mar 20, 2023•1 hr 18 min•Ep. 38
Tim and Josh go deep on how to sport climb at a high level. They address breathing on the wall, understanding resting, dealing with fear, how to do hard bouldery moves while tied in, and lots more. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Mar 06, 2023•1 hr 48 min•Ep. 37
Are grades subjective? What exactly do grades represent, and what don’t they represent? How do climbs get their grades anyways? What is the hardest move ever done and how are hard moves related to the actual grade of the climb? Tim and Josh go deep on grades because, let’s face it, grades matter and climbing needs them. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Feb 27, 2023•1 hr 52 min•Ep. 36
Josh brings Coach Andy ( @coachandytollefson on Instagram) back on to talk about figuring out your optimal bodyweight for climbing and how weightlifting may or may not fit into obtaining that weight. Then they go on to discuss some cutting edge technologies that could be used to help you train more and recover faster including BPC-157, Red Light Therapy, and using a “Cool Mitt”. WARNING: This pod goes into some subjects that can be sensitive for some listeners because they include discussions ar...
Feb 21, 2023•2 hr 12 min•Ep. 35
Tim and his S&C Coach, Andy, discuss the pursuit of mastery in climbing. What that means and what that looks like day to day. You can find Andy on Instagram @coachandytollefson . Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Feb 14, 2023•1 hr 21 min•Ep. 34
Tim’s Strength and Conditioning Coach, Andy Tollefson, joins Tim and Josh. Andy is a climber and coach based out of SLC who is a certified Strength and Condition Specialist and graduated with a BS in Exercise Science. They talked about everything from injury prevention in climbing, what Tim / Josh got wrong in the “Pumping Iron” episode, and some of the cutting edge supplements that Andy thinks may become a mainstay for elite climbers. This episode is packed with tips that you can instantly appl...
Feb 06, 2023•1 hr 38 min•Ep. 33
Tim and Josh discuss weightlifting and climbing. What is weightlifting vs calisthenics vs prehab? Is it necessary? Who might benefit? Who might not? Josh’s recommendation: Hangboarding + ‘Perfect’ Pull-ups + Pistols or Jumping is all 95% of people need. Frequency and quality over quantity. Do these often, and do them right. Sets and reps aren’t as important as intention and quality. Tim’s recommendation: Muscle-Ups + Toes-to-Bar + Hangboarding. Heavy weightlifting can teach you how to dial up li...
Jan 30, 2023•2 hr 5 min•Ep. 32
Tim and Josh talk about how they use supplements before, during, and after climbing to improve performance and recovery. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Jan 23, 2023•1 hr 26 min•Ep. 31
Tim and Josh get into the minutiae of footwork and shoe choice. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Jan 16, 2023•1 hr 54 min•Ep. 30
