Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He’s one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he’s flashed up to V14. How’s that for an intro?! Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he’s been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”. SHOW NOTES: Beastmaker Beastmaking Foxy Climbing Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one...
Apr 07, 2025•2 hr 31 min•Ep. 152
Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she’s a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14’s this past year. Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock ! Mad Rock’s mottos is “ CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, high...
Mar 31, 2025•2 hr 44 min•Ep. 151
This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17’s in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tensi...
Mar 28, 2025•18 min•Ep. 150
Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel . Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times! Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15. Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he’s just a ‘YouTuber’ and not a ‘real climber’. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW ...
Mar 24, 2025•2 hr 35 min•Ep. 149
This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny , #147 . Please listen to that episode first for context! Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one... Enjoy this deep dive on the usually opaque world of climbing gear manufacturing! SHOW NOTES: Kenny's Previo...
Mar 21, 2025•48 min•Ep. 148
Kenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock . Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the innovations of the past and the potential ones in the future. Really fun one that exposes the behind the scenes of shoe making and sheds a surprising light on what’s actually going on. SHOW NOTES: Kenny Suh Instagram Article About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder) Mad Roc...
Mar 17, 2025•2 hr 42 min•Ep. 147
Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA’ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US! You’ll also recognize Chris’ voice from his years as a commentator for US Nationals and Psicobloc competitions. SHOW NOTES: Chris’ Instagram Chris o...
Mar 10, 2025•2 hr 54 min•Ep. 146
This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte , right after Episode #144 was finished. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #144 for context! SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s Instagram Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page Chris Schulte’s Testpiece Episode #144 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...
Mar 07, 2025•15 min•Ep. 145
Chris Schulte has been there and FA’d that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven’t met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you’ll enjoy some new stories that you haven’t heard before. SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s Instagram Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page Josh on French Tickler in Hueco (filmed by Chris) Support the show Support us on Patreon: HE...
Mar 03, 2025•2 hr 4 min•Ep. 144
Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt! That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there. This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen! If you loved Simon as much as we do, we’ve got great news...
Feb 24, 2025•2 hr 45 min•Ep. 143
Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter ! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance . This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V1...
Feb 17, 2025•2 hr 48 min•Ep. 142
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future. Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Ep...
Feb 14, 2025•17 min•Ep. 141
Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately. Austin recently FA’d the North East’s first V15, Big Bad Wolf , as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch’ beta for the iconic crux move. Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it’s been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast....
Feb 10, 2025•2 hr 52 min•Ep. 140
This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock ! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they filmed “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson” . Between the Tides is a deep-water-soloing film that follows Mad Rock athlete Ross Fulkerson as he climbs above the Mediterranean on some of Mallorca's newest lines. With short weather windows, Ross uses lessons learned from the world of comp-climbing to make th...
Feb 03, 2025•2 hr 38 min•Ep. 139
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong’ climber. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #137 for context! SHOW NOTES: Kai Whaley’s Instagram Kai Whaley’s YouTube Kai Whaley’s E...
Jan 31, 2025•18 min•Ep. 138
“What up gangstas and shorties, it’s your boy, Kai." Kai Whaley is best known for his amazing YouTube Channel where he has been vlogging his sessions on Return Of The Sleepwalker (V17) and Shaolin (V17). He is close on both of them, especially ROTSW, and it wouldn’t be surprising if by the time you read this he’s sent! Kai is currently 18 and is unofficially the youngest person to ever climb V10, V12, and V16. And if he climbs one of those V17’s in the next few years, he’ll also take the ti...
Jan 27, 2025•2 hr 43 min•Ep. 137
Tim Kang (my dude) is back on Testpiece to discuss the incredible sending spree the youth have gone on these past few months. V17 is just the norm now, and V15's are just for fun and flash attempts. Tim and Josh also discuss what the future may hold in terms of grading, whether 15d is harder or easier than V17, and Tim shares what he things is the best highball in the world as well as what his next highball project may be. Episodes with Tim are always fun and full of hot takes. Enjoy! SHOW ...
Jan 20, 2025•2 hr 14 min•Ep. 136
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #134 was finished. Zach Galla shares a bit more about some 9A’s / V17’s he’s tried, the project he’s currently most psyched on it, how he used simulators to train for The Process (V16) , and who he thinks will get the third ascent of it. We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #134 for context! SHOW NOTES: Zach Galla’s Instagram The Process, V16, SA by Galla on Mellow Pretty...
Jan 17, 2025•13 min•Ep. 135
Zach Galla is back after an insanely amazing year. Catch Zach's first Testpiece Episode, #77, here . Since we last chatted he’s been traveling the world with the goal of climbing the best hard boulders in the world. And boy did he achieve that goal… Get the blow by blow breakdown of Zach’s second ascent of the iconic “The Process”, V16 , one of the proudest and most beautiful V16’s in the world that sat for 10 years waiting for Zach after Daniel Woods FA’d it. This could have been a podcast...
Jan 13, 2025•2 hr 3 min•Ep. 134
A couple of Island Boys just trying to make it to the top! We’ve got Ross Fulkerson , Marco Giacomangeli , and Bryce Belshin with your normal host, Josh Horsley . These boys recently got back from a trip to Mallorca that involved tons of amazing deep water soloing and some world class sport climbing as well. Each of these athletes are active coaches or professional climbers. Hear from them about what they learned on the trip and how coaches coach each other. They also talk about how to use fear ...
Jan 06, 2025•2 hr 4 min•Ep. 133
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #131 was finished. Nathaniel Coleman shares a bit more about his thoughts on V17 grades, training while he projected “No One Mourns The Wicked” , and what the name truly means. We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #131 for context, and make sure you watch the “No One Mourns The Wicked, V17” video on Mellow ! SHOW NOTES: Nathaniel Coleman’s Instagram No One Mourns The Wick...
Jan 03, 2025•16 min•Ep. 132
Special podcast!! Nathaniel Coleman just did a V17 FA, “No One Mourns The Wicked” ! This is the first ascent of the highly sought after low start to the iconic V15 testpiece, Defying Gravity. Nathaniel reached out to Testpiece and asked if we could do a podcast to give a behind the scenes story to accompany the video that dropped on Mellow TODAY. Watch the video and listen to the podcast so you get the visuals and the detailed blow by blow! If you don’t know who Nathaniel Coleman is (really?!!?)...
Jan 01, 2025•2 hr 52 min•Ep. 131
This episode is a roundup of 5 climbs from Testpiece guests, some of the BEST climbers in the world, sharing what it takes to go from Good to Great. Josh also shares what’s in his personal note titled “What I’ve Learned From Talking To The Best Climbers In The World”. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...
Dec 23, 2024•19 min•Ep. 130
Austin Geiman recently made waves when he sent the iconic testpiece, Defying Gravity, V15 , after 11 years and 100+ sessions. Austin started trying this boulder while it was still a project and he was there when Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb snagged the FA in 2013 in the film Huntsmen . He continued trying it through the years and then he also was there when the younger generation claimed the long awaited repeats. He finally added his name to the list and has even been supporting the next gen on t...
Dec 16, 2024•2 hr 32 min•Ep. 129
Anne-Worley Moelter is one of the most important people in climbing today because she is the CEO of Movement Climbing , the largest network of climbing gyms in the US with a portfolio of 30 gyms and another 3 coming soon. These gyms set the tone and craft the climbing experience for millions of climbers. Anne-Worley is a lifer who has done SO MUCH for our sport. She started her journey in the industry over 20 years ago working as an assistant manager at a gym. She went on to hold many different ...
Dec 09, 2024•2 hr 32 min•Ep. 128
Timothy Kang, aka “Tim, My Dude” is back on the pod to talk about the latest climbing news, an update in his life going from a pro-climber to a weekend warrior, and hear about Josh’s recent trip to Mallorca. If you are new to the podcast you may not recognize why he is “Tim, My Dude” and that is because of the many many podcasts Josh and Tim recorded previously and how each podcast started. If you like Josh and Tim’s vibe on this one, be sure to visit the previous dozens of episodes where Josh a...
Dec 02, 2024•2 hr 17 min•Ep. 127
Natalia Grossman is one of the top female competitors of all time. She has won an astounding 11 World Cups and 4 World Cup seasons in a row! She also competed in the 2024 Paris Olympics for Team USA. Even though Natalia won the WC season in 2024, it was a tough year for her. She suffered a serious injury during the semi finals in the first World Cup competition of the year. Somehow she pushed through it to win the competition, but afterwards it was clear that the injury was a major one. The wors...
Nov 25, 2024•2 hr 37 min•Ep. 126
This is a follow-up episode to the last Melina Costanza podcast, #119 . That episode was one of the fan favorites, josh favorites, and even favorites of other professional climbers. Go listen to that one first, because it was amazing and will set the stage for this follow-up episode. It’s only been a month since Melina last came on, but in that month she won US Nationals, both in Lead and Bouldering, and did so for the second year in a row. Yes, in 2023 she won Lead and Bouldering and in 2024 sh...
Nov 18, 2024•2 hr 13 min•Ep. 125
This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock ! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they recorded this podcast. Ross is back on the pod after a multi year hiatus. Ross was actually the very first guest back on episode #3 and #4! Since then Ross has won tons of comps, competed in tons of world cups, climbed hard boulders, hard sport, even hard trad! In the last few months Ross has been on tear doing a...
Nov 11, 2024•2 hr 59 min•Ep. 124
Adam Shahar is the name that keeps coming up when I ask who is an up and coming star. At 18 he had a breakout year where he won bouldering nationals, climbed V15 in a few sessions while he was on the road doing WC’s, and then became IFSC’s Athlete of the Week when he narrowly missed finals with a 7th place finish at the Prague WC. He also had perhaps the most incredible board climbing session of all time where he did 5 V13’s on the Tension TB2, flashing 1 of them and doing 2 of them second try… ...
Nov 04, 2024•2 hr 55 min•Ep. 123
