Jonathan Siegrist , aka J-Star, is one of the top sport climbers in the world, and he has been for at least a decade(s?). He recently sent another 9b in Italy, called Erebor . This wasn’t his in his typical style and he shares how he trained for months before the trip specifically for this line. Jonathan is one of the most experienced and knowledgeable climbers in the game right now and he shares SO much in this chat. Both in how to reach your potential now, and how to be successful over the lon...
Jun 09, 2025•2 hr 10 min•Ep. 162
Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Good Temps’ podcast! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi , Will Anglin , Austin Hoyt , and Joshua Horsley . SHOW NOTES: Carlo’s Instagram Will’s Instagram Austin’s Instagram Josh’s Instagram The Dark Side Movie Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HE...
Jun 02, 2025•1 hr 52 min•Ep. 161
Hamish McArthur has been making huge headlines in the climbing world lately with his send of the highly sought after second ascent of Megatron [V17]. He quickly followed that up with another V17 second ascent of No One Mourns The Wicked , on his first session! Yes, that’s right, Hamish sent a V17 in a few hours. Hamish is an incredible person through and through and it’s a pleasure to get to peer into his process and hear about his path from “Good to Great”. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock...
May 26, 2025•1 hr 45 min•Ep. 160
You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod (again!). This episode was ‘snipped’ from the original, #158, and focuses on a nuanced discussion of nutrition. It felt very different from the other topics so we made it a standalone. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Podcast [Part 1] with Dave Dave MacLeod’s Instagram Dave MacLeod’s YouTube Channel Moving The Needle, Dave’s Latest Book Dave’s Journey To The Ketogeni...
May 19, 2025•1 hr 17 min•Ep. 159
You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod . This episode focuses on boldness and risk in climbing, as well as some of the key theme’s in his latest book, Moving The Needle . THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY ORGANIC CLIMBING ! Simply put, Organic makes the best and highest quality crashpads. SHOW NOTES: Dave MacLeod’s Instagram Dave MacLeod’s YouTube Channel Moving The Needle, Dave’s Latest Book Organic Climbing Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with on...
May 12, 2025•1 hr 56 min•Ep. 158
Josh Lowell is THE guy behind the camera and computer who has made all of your favorite climbing videos over the past 25+ years. He is one of the founders of Big UP Productions, Reel Rock , and was the director of The Dawn Wall. The guy even has 2 Emmy’s under his belt! Josh shares all of his amazing stories from starting out as an OG dirtbag, picking up his first camera to show the world how ‘badass’ climbing is, all the way through winning Emmy’s. This guy is a legend and is one of the reasons...
May 05, 2025•2 hr 24 min•Ep. 157
Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang ] is back on the pod for another fun episode. Tim and Josh talk about the latest big news stories in climbing and then get into their latest climbing experience. For Tim that means sending Trieste, an iconic Red Rocks V14, while being a ‘weekend warrior’. For Josh that means his recent big trip to the historic bouldering Mecca that is Fontainebleau. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock ! Mad Rock’s motto is “ CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly techn...
Apr 28, 2025•2 hr 10 min•Ep. 156
This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #154 was finished. Kevin Thibault and Josh go deep on the legendary ‘Karma’, the current development happening in Font, skin management, and the issues of weight vs performance. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: H...
Apr 25, 2025•47 min•Ep. 155
Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now! It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma’ which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world. Hear from Kevin all about Fontainebleau, what makes it special, and what it has taught him in his journey deep into the 8th grade. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORT...
Apr 21, 2025•2 hr 4 min•Ep. 154
Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends. Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn’t grown as quickly as bouldering. And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock. SHOW NOTES: Tyler’s Instagram Tyler’s YouTube Channel Full Metal Brisket (15a) Support the show Support us on Patreon: H...
Apr 14, 2025•1 hr 37 min•Ep. 153
Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He’s one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he’s flashed up to V14. How’s that for an intro?! Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he’s been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”. SHOW NOTES: Beastmaker Beastmaking Foxy Climbing Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one...
Apr 07, 2025•1 hr 31 min•Ep. 152
Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she’s a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14’s this past year. Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock ! Mad Rock’s mottos is “ CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, high...
Mar 31, 2025•1 hr 44 min•Ep. 151
This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17’s in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tensi...
Mar 28, 2025•18 min•Ep. 150
Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel . Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times! Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15. Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he’s just a ‘YouTuber’ and not a ‘real climber’. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW ...
Mar 24, 2025•1 hr 35 min•Ep. 149
This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny , #147 . Please listen to that episode first for context! Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one... Enjoy this deep dive on the usually opaque world of climbing gear manufacturing! SHOW NOTES: Kenny's Previous Episode...
Mar 21, 2025•48 min•Ep. 148
Kenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock . Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the innovations of the past and the potential ones in the future. Really fun one that exposes the behind the scenes of shoe making and sheds a surprising light on what’s actually going on. SHOW NOTES: Kenny Suh Instagram Article About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder) Mad Rock Ins...
Mar 17, 2025•1 hr 42 min•Ep. 147
Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA’ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US! You’ll also recognize Chris’ voice from his years as a commentator for US Nationals and Psicobloc competitions. SHOW NOTES: Chris’ Instagram Chris o...
Mar 10, 2025•1 hr 54 min•Ep. 146
This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte , right after Episode #144 was finished. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #144 for context! SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s Instagram Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page Chris Schulte’s Testpiece Episode #144 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...
Mar 07, 2025•15 min•Ep. 145
Chris Schulte has been there and FA’d that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven’t met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you’ll enjoy some new stories that you haven’t heard before. SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s Instagram Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page Josh on French Tickler in Hueco (filmed by Chris) Support the show Support us on Patreon: HE...
Mar 03, 2025•2 hr 4 min•Ep. 144
Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt! That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there. This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen! If you loved Simon as much as we do, we’ve got great news...
Feb 24, 2025•1 hr 45 min•Ep. 143
Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter ! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance . This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V1...
Feb 17, 2025•1 hr 48 min•Ep. 142
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future. Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Ep...
Feb 14, 2025•17 min•Ep. 141
Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately. Austin recently FA’d the North East’s first V15, Big Bad Wolf , as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch’ beta for the iconic crux move. Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it’s been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast....
Feb 10, 2025•1 hr 52 min•Ep. 140
This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock ! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they filmed “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson” . Between the Tides is a deep-water-soloing film that follows Mad Rock athlete Ross Fulkerson as he climbs above the Mediterranean on some of Mallorca's newest lines. With short weather windows, Ross uses lessons learned from the world of comp-climbing to make the mos...
Feb 03, 2025•1 hr 38 min•Ep. 139
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong’ climber. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #137 for context! SHOW NOTES: Kai Whaley’s Instagram Kai Whaley’s YouTube Kai Whaley’s E...
Jan 31, 2025•18 min•Ep. 138
“What up gangstas and shorties, it’s your boy, Kai." Kai Whaley is best known for his amazing YouTube Channel where he has been vlogging his sessions on Return Of The Sleepwalker (V17) and Shaolin (V17). He is close on both of them, especially ROTSW, and it wouldn’t be surprising if by the time you read this he’s sent! Kai is currently 18 and is unofficially the youngest person to ever climb V10, V12, and V16. And if he climbs one of those V17’s in the next few years, he’ll also take the title f...
Jan 27, 2025•1 hr 43 min•Ep. 137
Tim Kang (my dude) is back on Testpiece to discuss the incredible sending spree the youth have gone on these past few months. V17 is just the norm now, and V15's are just for fun and flash attempts. Tim and Josh also discuss what the future may hold in terms of grading, whether 15d is harder or easier than V17, and Tim shares what he things is the best highball in the world as well as what his next highball project may be. Episodes with Tim are always fun and full of hot takes. Enjoy! SHOW NOTES...
Jan 20, 2025•2 hr 14 min•Ep. 136
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #134 was finished. Zach Galla shares a bit more about some 9A’s / V17’s he’s tried, the project he’s currently most psyched on it, how he used simulators to train for The Process (V16) , and who he thinks will get the third ascent of it. We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #134 for context! SHOW NOTES: Zach Galla’s Instagram The Process, V16, SA by Galla on Mellow Pretty...
Jan 17, 2025•13 min•Ep. 135
Zach Galla is back after an insanely amazing year. Catch Zach's first Testpiece Episode, #77, here . Since we last chatted he’s been traveling the world with the goal of climbing the best hard boulders in the world. And boy did he achieve that goal… Get the blow by blow breakdown of Zach’s second ascent of the iconic “The Process”, V16 , one of the proudest and most beautiful V16’s in the world that sat for 10 years waiting for Zach after Daniel Woods FA’d it. This could have been a podcast in i...
Jan 13, 2025•2 hr 3 min•Ep. 134
A couple of Island Boys just trying to make it to the top! We’ve got Ross Fulkerson , Marco Giacomangeli , and Bryce Belshin with your normal host, Josh Horsley . These boys recently got back from a trip to Mallorca that involved tons of amazing deep water soloing and some world class sport climbing as well. Each of these athletes are active coaches or professional climbers. Hear from them about what they learned on the trip and how coaches coach each other. They also talk about how to use fear ...
Jan 06, 2025•2 hr 4 min•Ep. 133
