Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato from Tension Climbing, Max Zolotukhin from Sickos Social Club, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Discontinuing the TB1 How to convince a gym owner to buy a board SHOW NOTES: Sickos Social Cl...
Apr 27, 2026•1 hr 40 min•Ep. 209
16 year old Beckett Hsin just climbed bouldering’s hardest grade. In this week’s episode, he and Josh discuss the path that took him here, the boulders that inspire him, and the power of psych. Beckett also tells us about his ambition to branch out from bouldering and explore everything that climbing has to offer. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Beckett’s experience with Lyme Disease Tips for shorter climbers Beckett’s strength metrics Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Insta...
Apr 20, 2026•1 hr 8 min•Ep. 208
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Is it ever okay to red-tag a boulder? The politics and ethics of bolting a route Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Apr 13, 2026•1 hr 28 min•Ep. 207
After 2 insane years, Sean Bailey is back on the pod. In this episode we break down Sean's hardest ascent to date, Duality of Man (5.15d) and the philosophy behind Next Gen, the new gym helmed by Sean and Nonaka Miho. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Is V17 or 5.15d harder? Is Duality Of Man chipped? Will Sean ever compete again? Why has no one repeated any of the proposed 15d’s? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Apr 06, 2026•1 hr 15 min•Ep. 206
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Sam Prior and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): The best and worst MoonBoard sets and holds How is Ben Moon still so strong at nearly 60 years old? What makes a benchmark a benchmark? Sam’s favorite Careless Talk episode The thing ...
Mar 30, 2026•1 hr 50 min•Ep. 205
One year later, Dr. Tyler Nelson is back! Tyler is the owner and founder of Camp4 Human Performance and an expert on all things training. In this episode we discuss everything shoulders, including best exercises, rehab, what to avoid, and more. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Are your hangs limited by finger strength or shoulder strength? Do pressing exercises really “even out” climbers? When to consider surgery Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our pod...
Mar 23, 2026•1 hr 49 min•Ep. 204
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Deep dive on climbing shoes and their individual benefits The history and future of rubber technology for shoes Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...
Mar 16, 2026•1 hr 15 min•Ep. 203
Daniel Yagmin Jr. is the founder of Decoy Climbing holds and a legend in the Northeast climbing scene. He joins us this week to talk about the process of hold shaping, how his background in fine arts informs his work, his love of board climbing, and where he thinks the industry is headed. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Dan’s unconventional hold shaping tool kit The look of the Decoy Board The pros and cons of every training board Dan’s favorite holds — outdoors and indoor...
Mar 09, 2026•1 hr 38 min•Ep. 202
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Noah’s biggest lesson from his injury What are the defining characteristics of the British board style? How to address elitism in the climbing community and between ...
Mar 02, 2026•1 hr 1 min•Ep. 201
Connor Herson is back after an insane 3 years. Last week he proposed the world’s first 5.15 trad climb, “Drifter’s Escape,” a beautiful single pitch in Squamish that revolves around one of the best moves you could ask for on gear. He also talks about balancing climbing professionally with completing his masters degree, lessons he’s learned from climbing with boulderers, and his philosophy of improving by climbing as much volume as he can without sacrificing difficulty. Patreon Bonus Content (joi...
Feb 23, 2026•1 hr 13 min•Ep. 200
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): What’s the best way to approach solo night climbing? More crazy skincare techniques from Will Is Font or Yosemite more technical? SHOW NOTES: Duality of Man (5.15d): https://www.instagram.com/p/DT-z...
Feb 16, 2026•1 hr 24 min•Ep. 199
Adam Shahar is back on the pod after the best year any climber could ask for. He’s been crushing hard boulders in Bishop, and Yosemite, and just climbed his first V17, Return of the Sleepwalker . He also talks about his recent banger V13 FA in the Valley, and his single-move Northeast megaproject. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Adam’s favorite crags in the Northeast Other projects Adam’s eyeing What motivates you as a climber? Why are there so many strong crimpers in the ...
Feb 09, 2026•1 hr 11 min
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension Climbing, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Gamification of boards pro’s and con’s? Best ways to do Leaderboards? What separates Quinn from the actual Board ...
Feb 02, 2026•1 hr 38 min•Ep. 197
Melina Costanza is back on Testpiece for the 3rd time! That’s because Melina is absolutely outstanding in every way: competitions, outdoors, training, and especially mindset. Melina is able to articulate all of her thoughts on these things in a way that most can’t which is why we love having her on the podcast as often as possible. She also recently competed in her first ever World Championship where she podiumed!! Even more astounding is that she did this as her first comp back after having to ...
Jan 26, 2026•1 hr 44 min•Ep. 196
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): This Bonus content is SO GOOD. If you don’t have Patreon just sign up, get the 7-day Free Trial, and cancel immediately. You can’t miss this! I guarantee you will laugh out loud. -josh 2025 Top 3 Moments 202...
Jan 19, 2026•1 hr 19 min•Ep. 195
Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang ] is back on the pod for another fun episode! Tim has rededicated himself to the mastery of climbing after a brief stint in a normal 9-5. And boy did he come back with a bang with the amazing FA of Borrowed Time , a stunning V14 highball in Tahoe. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Mentally dealing with big injuries. How do you do it, and how did it shift your perspective on climbing? Biggest Moments for Climbing in 2025? Predictions for 2026? Woul...
Jan 12, 2026•1 hr 53 min•Ep. 194
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension), Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Benn’s Favorite Shoes for Board Climbing Most Iconic Board Climbs (and why climbs become iconic) Everyone's Favorite and Least F...
Jan 05, 2026•1 hr 38 min•Ep. 193
This is a re-release of a previous episode with Sean Bailey. It was an absolute banger then, and it is today. Sean's been on a tear recently with his send of AOTB [V17], opening a new gym in Tokyo, and theres rumors of even more hard sending. Because of this, we thought it was a great time to bring this one back. We're on holiday this week, but we'll be back to normal starting next week. Happy holidays and new year everyone! Previous description, as originally aired Jan 29th, 2024. Sean Bailey c...
Dec 29, 2025•1 hr 52 min•Ep. 192
Julian Acevedo was one of the founders of the original ‘Anti-Mega’ gym, GP81 in New York City. This gym is the definition of a “climber’s climbing gym” and is known for great walls, great setting, and an even better community. GP81 has now blazed a trail again by opening a Youth Training Center which is headed up by the Creative Director Zoe Sayetta who has been coaching youth athletes for decades. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Is there plans to continue to expand GP81? ...
Dec 22, 2025•1 hr 34 min•Ep. 191
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): The How/What/When/Why of using WET chalk. Best skin tactics? Will Anglin’s deep dive on healing splits and the secret glue he uses for everything skin related. Links to things mentioned: Ethan Salvo on Lucid...
Dec 15, 2025•1 hr 10 min•Ep. 190
Annie Sanders is the first American woman to win World Cups in both Bouldering and Lead. And she’s only 18 so she’s just getting started! Hear about Annie’s breakout season and what’s in store for her future! Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Who are your favorite competitors to watch and why? How do you deal with pressure in ISO before climbing? Which round has the hardest grades, Qualis / Semis / Finals? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our po...
Dec 08, 2025•45 min•Ep. 189
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. Board Climbs Mentioned: “Paws To Riches” V6 on the 2024 MB, by Davy “All Jazzed Up” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Brian Squire “I Kneed You” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Michael Rosato “One Leg Vet” ...
Dec 01, 2025•1 hr 22 min•Ep. 188
BLACK FRIDAY PATREON DISCOUNT! Get 25% off your first month or annual subscription until midnight (PT) on Dec 1st. Use code ‘BLACKFRIDAY’. ‘Emergency’ Episode! Elias Iagnemma sent his long standing project last week and proposed the grade of V18 / 9A+. A grade no one has ever proposed before. So we got the crew together outside our regularly scheduled program to discuss. Enjoy! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from ind...
Nov 26, 2025•47 min•Ep. 187
Ollie Torr is the co-founder of Lattice. Yes, that Lattice. The biggest training company in the climbing space. Ollie has tested, coached, or worked with almost every top climber in the world, especially if they are in the UK. That means that Lattice also has the biggest and best data set around climbing metrics, and they’ve created an app to help apply what Lattice has learned over the last decade for everyone. Here is a link to get a Lifetime discount: https://plan.latticetraining.com/sign-up ...
Nov 24, 2025•1 hr 51 min•Ep. 186
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): All things shoes! Stiff shoes or soft shoes? Should you have a special pair for sending and a different pair for training? And more… What does and does not factor into a grade? Approach? Morphology?...
Nov 17, 2025•1 hr 31 min•Ep. 185
Tyler Willcutt is the agent for climbers like Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma, Natalia Grossman, Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, etc… You get the idea. He is part of RXR Sports , an agency that represents the best athletes in adventure sports. In this episode we get a behind the scenes look at what the day to day is like as one of the greats in our sport. How they make money, handle pressure, and capitalize on major sends. Tyler also explains how not all athletes can cross into the mainstream. Some have ...
Nov 10, 2025•1 hr 30 min•Ep. 184
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. This week Michael took a vacay, but he was replaced by the inimitable board lord Benn Wheeler! Media Mentioned: Noah Wheeler FA’s a new V15 on the TB2 Wheel Rock “Olympian vs V17 Climber” Wedge Vide...
Nov 03, 2025•1 hr 37 min•Ep. 183
Sierra Blair was an accomplished competition climber for many years with tons of World Cups under her belt. Due to a back injury she had to stay low to the ground and this lead her to the MoonBoard. It’s been love ever since and she has transitioned from her competition career into the outdoors where she is focused on bouldering in Arizona. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): What’s her favorite MoonBoard climb and why? What was it like being famous when young and wha...
Oct 27, 2025•1 hr 10 min•Ep. 182
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): How do you safely work/clean/scope a boulder on a rope? When do you work on your weaknesses vs leaning into your strengths? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HE...
Oct 20, 2025•1 hr 58 min•Ep. 181
Mark and Josh have climbed all over the world together and this chat has been a long time coming! They’ve been discussing climbing for well over a decade and Mark has heavily influenced Josh’s views and understanding of how to climb at a high level. Mark Heal is an absolute legend in the Bay Area. He’s a V14 climber, with >600 double digit sends and amazing FA’s all over the Sierras. Mark is also a top private coach with over a decade of experience. And last, but certainly not least, he is on...
Oct 13, 2025•1 hr 35 min•Ep. 180
