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The Testpiece Podcast

A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.

Hosted by Joshua Horsley.

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Episodes

Board Talk #4 — The Future Of Board Climbing Comps, The Ultimate Spray Wall, BTS With Honnold And Harrington and Board Climbing 102

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. 2024 MoonBoard Climbs Mentioned: "Tempest In A Teapot" V5, by rtag "Moon Spawn" V9, by Dana Rader Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): How do you stick better to wood hold...

Oct 06, 20251 hr 22 minEp. 179

#174 Paul Houghoughi — The Gold Medal Physio, Preparing The Elite For Comps, How Pro’s Heal, and Climbing When You’re 100

Paul Houghoughi is the official physio for the GB Climbing team and accompanied them to both Olympics. He’s supported some of the best in our sport, such as Olympic gold medalist, Toby Roberts. Paul is also an extremely accomplished climber. He’s FA’d double digit boulders on almost every continent in the world and climbed up V13 (so far…)! Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): All things wrists! Does pain always mean that you are injured? How do you know when pain is “...

Sep 29, 20251 hr 36 minEp. 178

Good Temps #5 — Youngest V16 Climber Ever, Another 8C Flash, $1M Comp Formats, Fame And Money

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Tips for someone's first trip to Yosemite and Bishop Does a rest hurt the quality of a boulder or route? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...

Sep 22, 20251 hr 47 minEp. 177

Board Talk #3 — Janja’s Board, How Boards Show A Climbers True Potential, Spray Walls Vs Standardized Boards, and The God Tier Challenge

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. 'Classics' mentioned: "Effervescence" - 7A/V6 @ 45° "Clinical" - 7B/V8 @ 45° "Ignite" - 7B+/V8 @ 45° "Free Education" - 7C/V9 @ 45° Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast ...

Sep 08, 20251 hr 24 minEp. 175

#172 Jesse Firestone — How To Have Peak Climbing Experiences, Tolerating Uncertainty, and Being Your Own Coach

Jesse Firestone is a well known climbing coach. He's worked with people from every continent and of all levels (V0 - V16). Here's where you can find Jesse online: Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coachjfire/ Website: https://jfireclimbing.com/ Jesse's own Podcast: https://open.spotify.com/show/6iRknM60I84k2pmeztWDt2?si=0fc3bde1ff244e74 Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...

Sep 01, 20251 hr 43 minEp. 174

Board Talk #2 — The Best Board Session Ever, 2024 MoonBoard Deep Dive, and What Makes A Board Problem ‘Good’

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING ! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing. SHOW NOTES: Allison Vest and Kyra Condie on a 55 degre...

Aug 11, 20252 hr 2 minEp. 171

#170 Ravioli Biceps — How Board Climbing Transfers To Outdoors, The Magic Of Completionism, Overcoming Stopper Moves and Zooming In On Movement

Ravioli Biceps ! Just back from an amazing trip to Rocklands, Ravioli shares how board climbing transfers to outdoor climbing, the evolution of board climbing culture over the last decade, how he deals with stopper moves, and some of the misconceptions about board climbing being non-technical. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock ! Mad Rock’s mottos is “ CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.” Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instag...

Aug 04, 20251 hr 56 minEp. 170

#169 ‘Good Temps' 3 — WC Season In Full Swing, World’s First 8C Flash?!, Pushing It To The Limit, and Rocklands FOMO

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Today’s episode covers: The Current WC Season (and a Janja tangent) Yannick Flohe’s World’s First 8C Flash (or was it?) The Pro’s and Con’s of Pushing Things To The Absolute Limit FOMO of All The Good Temps and Good Times Being Had in Rocklands Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our ...

Jul 28, 20251 hr 21 minEp. 169

#168 Dan Varian — The Different Physical Archetypes Of Pros, High Knuckle Crimping, Committing To Chisel Or 3-Finger Drag, and How True Progression Happens

Dan Varian is a living legend in the bouldering scene. He's one of the founders of the iconic company Beastmaker and he's a prolific developer with who has FA'd 100's of boulders in the grade 8 (V11 and up). On top of that, Dan is one of the most thoughtful and experienced climber in the world on what it takes to climb at a high level, especially when it comes to the hands and fingers. This is an absolute masterclass and deep dive on elite level hand strength. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANI...

Jul 21, 20252 hr 31 minEp. 168

#167 ‘Board Talk’ — A Recurring Board Focused Podcast With Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley

Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Board Talk’ podcast! Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley . Some topics covered in this episode are: Board Lords episodes 6 and 7 Recent Moon YouTube on the OG board (2010!) Are Boards Morpho? Ethics and Style on Boards The WORLDS FIR...

Jul 14, 20252 hr 13 minEp. 167

#166 Wheel Rock — Noah Does Two V17’s, Benn Explains The V17 Grade, Turning Pro, and Execution At The Highest Level

Noah Wheeler and Benn Wheeler are back on the pod! Tons of fun and insight from these two on what it takes to do the hardest boulders in the world. Also we get into Board Lord’s Episode #7 where Noah competed with Hamish McArthur and SeanRHM. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Noah Wheeler’s Instagram Benn Wheeler’s Instagram Wheel Rock Patreon Wheel rock YouTube Channel Wheeler Brother’s Testpiece Episode Boar...

Jul 07, 20251 hr 51 minEp. 166

#165 ‘Good Temps’ 2 — Brooke Does Excalibur [15c], Ondra Flashes E11, Mt. Doom’s [V17] Aesthetic’s Matter, Actual Progression Of The Sport, and ‘First Dab Ascent’

Good Temps is back! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Today’s episode covers: Brooke Rabatou’s FFA of Excalibur (15c) Adam Ondra flashing Lexicon (E11) Mount Doom (V17) and the importance of aesthetics, which leads to a discussion about how our sport actually progresses Mellow Rock Games Controversy around Sung Su’s sending Burden of D...

Jun 30, 20252 hr 5 minEp. 165

#164 Obe Carrion — “We Are Bouldering”, What Winning Comps Used To Represent, 'Rock Star' Parties, and Designing Dope Gear

Obe Carrion is an absolute legend and one of the most iconic stars that rose during the early years of American bouldering. Obe has climbed, competed, and worked in every role climbing has to offer. And he always does it with the best of the best. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock ! Mad Rock’s motto is “ CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.” SHOW NOTES: Obe Carrion’s Instagram Rampage Madrock Climbing, This Episode’s Sponsor J...

Jun 23, 20251 hr 52 minEp. 164

#163 Michael Rosato — Board Lords, Board Culture, Standardized Vs Spray, The Future Of Boards, and Board Grading

Michael Rosato is the Director Of Marketing at Tension Climbing, and is also the host of the amazing ‘Board Lord’ series on their YouTube Channel. Michael is also a board lord himself, with sends up to V13 on the TB2. Enjoy this deep dive into board culture, the different kinds of boards, and the future of boards. This episode is supported by ORGANIC CLIMBING ! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing. SHOW NOTES: Michael’s Instagram Testpie...

Jun 16, 20252 hr 14 minEp. 163

#162 Jonathan Siegrist — What It Takes To Send At Your Limit, Different Climbing Cultures Around The World, and Having Longevity As a Professional In Climbing

Jonathan Siegrist , aka J-Star, is one of the top sport climbers in the world, and he has been for at least a decade(s?). He recently sent another 9b in Italy, called Erebor . This wasn’t his in his typical style and he shares how he trained for months before the trip specifically for this line. Jonathan is one of the most experienced and knowledgeable climbers in the game right now and he shares SO much in this chat. Both in how to reach your potential now, and how to be successful over the lon...

Jun 09, 20252 hr 10 minEp. 162

#161 ‘Good Temps’ — A New Recurring Group Podcast with Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley

Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Good Temps’ podcast! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi , Will Anglin , Austin Hoyt , and Joshua Horsley . SHOW NOTES: Carlo’s Instagram Will’s Instagram Austin’s Instagram Josh’s Instagram The Dark Side Movie Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...

Jun 02, 20251 hr 52 minEp. 161

#160 Hamish McArthur — Going ‘Invisible Man’, Sending Megatron And NOMTW, and What Achieving Your Potential Actually Means

Hamish McArthur has been making huge headlines in the climbing world lately with his send of the highly sought after second ascent of Megatron [V17]. He quickly followed that up with another V17 second ascent of No One Mourns The Wicked , on his first session! Yes, that’s right, Hamish sent a V17 in a few hours. Hamish is an incredible person through and through and it’s a pleasure to get to peer into his process and hear about his path from “Good to Great”. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock...

May 26, 20251 hr 45 minEp. 160

#159 Dave MacLeod [Part 2] — Be The Lightest Possible FOREVER, How To Peak For a Specific Moment, and Why Cutting Calories Is The Last Resort

You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod (again!). This episode was ‘snipped’ from the original, #158, and focuses on a nuanced discussion of nutrition. It felt very different from the other topics so we made it a standalone. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Podcast [Part 1] with Dave Dave MacLeod’s Instagram Dave MacLeod’s YouTube Channel Moving The Needle, Dave’s Latest Book Dave’s Journey To The Ketogeni...

May 19, 20251 hr 17 minEp. 159

#158 Dave MacLeod — You Can’t Avoid Risk, The Right Definition Of Bold Climbing, Low Confidence Is Good, and Why Being Great Means Being Different

You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod . This episode focuses on boldness and risk in climbing, as well as some of the key theme’s in his latest book, Moving The Needle . THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY ORGANIC CLIMBING ! Simply put, Organic makes the best and highest quality crashpads. SHOW NOTES: Dave MacLeod’s Instagram Dave MacLeod’s YouTube Channel Moving The Needle, Dave’s Latest Book Organic Climbing Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...

May 12, 20251 hr 56 minEp. 158

#157 Josh Lowell — World's Best Climbing Films, Reel Rock 19, What Made Sharma Different, Climbing Is ‘Badass’, and How To Make Something Great

Josh Lowell is THE guy behind the camera and computer who has made all of your favorite climbing videos over the past 25+ years. He is one of the founders of Big UP Productions, Reel Rock , and was the director of The Dawn Wall. The guy even has 2 Emmy’s under his belt! Josh shares all of his amazing stories from starting out as an OG dirtbag, picking up his first camera to show the world how ‘badass’ climbing is, all the way through winning Emmy’s. This guy is a legend and is one of the reasons...

May 05, 20252 hr 24 minEp. 157

#156 Tim, My Dude — When Olympians Go Rock Climbing, The Best Red Rocks Season Ever, Are Soft Shoes Better Than Stiff Ones, and How To Have A Successful Trip

Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang ] is back on the pod for another fun episode. Tim and Josh talk about the latest big news stories in climbing and then get into their latest climbing experience. For Tim that means sending Trieste, an iconic Red Rocks V14, while being a ‘weekend warrior’. For Josh that means his recent big trip to the historic bouldering Mecca that is Fontainebleau. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock ! Mad Rock’s motto is “ CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly techn...

Apr 28, 20252 hr 10 minEp. 156

#155 [BONUS] Kevin Thibault — All About Karma, The State Of Development In Font, and 9A Slabs By Kids?!

This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #154 was finished. Kevin Thibault and Josh go deep on the legendary ‘Karma’, the current development happening in Font, skin management, and the issues of weight vs performance. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page...

Apr 25, 202547 minEp. 155

#154 Kevin Thibault — A Lifetime In Fontainebleau, Circuits / Pof / Chipping / Nazi’s, Good vs Great Climbers In Font, and Does Climbing Need Weightclasses?

Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now! It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma’ which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world. Hear from Kevin all about Fontainebleau, what makes it special, and what it has taught him in his journey deep into the 8th grade. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORT...

Apr 21, 20252 hr 4 minEp. 154

#153 Tyler Thompson — This Is The Most Fun You Can Have Climbing, Why 14a In America Is Like 9a In Europe, and How Sport Climbing Rewards Time On Rock More Than Bouldering

Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends. Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn’t grown as quickly as bouldering. And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock. SHOW NOTES: Tyler’s Instagram Tyler’s YouTube Channel Full Metal Brisket (15a) Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram...

Apr 14, 20251 hr 37 minEp. 153

#152 Ned Feehally — Training For Micro Edges, Being A ‘Good’ Climber Vs Doing A Big Number, 9A Paddle Dyno’s, and A Standardized Beastmaker Board?!

Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He’s one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he’s flashed up to V14. How’s that for an intro?! Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he’s been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”. SHOW NOTES: Beastmaker Beastmaking Foxy Climbing Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE...

Apr 07, 20251 hr 31 minEp. 152

#151 Shauna Coxsey — The One Thing You Can’t Train, Olympics Are Harder Than Parenting, and The Difference Between Motivation and Commitment

Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she’s a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14’s this past year. Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock ! Mad Rock’s mottos is “ CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, high...

Mar 31, 20251 hr 44 minEp. 151

#150 [BONUS] Emil Abrahamsson — Long Term YouTube Goals, Recommendations To The Pro’s, Will Ondra Flash V15?, and The # Of V17’s In The World

This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17’s in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tensi...

Mar 28, 202518 minEp. 150
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