Alayna Joy is a queer content creator and YouTuber , and newly obsessed climber. We talked about her journey of discovering she is gay, coming out publicly on her already-successful YouTube channel, how climbing has become an anchor for her, compulsory heterosexuality, questions we should ask ourselves, queerness in climbing, why our climbing progress slows down over time, and much more. Check out So Cards! socards.org Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Athletic...
Dec 12, 2022•2 hr 6 min
Todd Perkins is one of those local legends who you’ve probably never heard of. That is unless you’ve climbed on some of his routes around St George, Utah. We talked about growing up in the Mormon church, the mind-opening effects of cannabis, climbing his first 5.14 in the 90s and maintaining that level for 25 years, near-death experiences, the intelligence of the cosmos, aliens, and much more. Support the Access Fund! accessfund.org/donate Check out Crimpd! crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app!...
Dec 05, 2022•2 hr 52 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Amity Warme. We talked about sending The Honeymoon Is Over on the Diamond during a hailstorm, and we covered the highlights and lessons from her spring season in Yosemite. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:25:59. patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Amity’s Original Episode: EP 104: Amity Warme...
Nov 28, 2022•21 min
Katie Lamb is one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her early climbing and falling in love with bouldering, climbing her first V14 and what led to her breakthrough in the last two years, projecting tips, superpowers, lifting weights, balancing training with outdoor climbing, what it will take for her to reach the next level, and working in climate data science. Check out Arc'teryx! arcteryx.com Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskins...
Nov 21, 2022•2 hr 3 min
Marisa Michael is a registered dietitian nutritionist with 20 years of experience who specializes in eating disorders in athletes and climbers. We talked about the characteristics of eating disorders, the line between eating for performance and disordered eating, why losing weight won’t make you climb harder, recommendations for climbers and youth athletes, intuitive eating, Marisa’s sweet tooth, and much more. Eating Disorders Helpline: nationaleatingdisorders.org/help-support/contact-helpline ...
Nov 15, 2022•2 hr 15 min
Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more. Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply...
Nov 07, 2022•3 hr 34 min
Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. *He sent Alphane V17 two weeks after this interview. C...
Nov 01, 2022•3 hr 3 min
Robbie Phillips is a professional adventure climber and filmmaker from Scotland. We talked about his recent trip to the Western Isles of Scotland, his path from competitions to adventure climbing, top rope soloing to project hard routes, things he learned from climbing with Dave MacLeod, processing grief, capturing memories through filmmaking, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kit...
Oct 24, 2022•3 hr 35 min
Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more. Listen to more top episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out P...
Oct 19, 2022•2 hr 52 min
Lynn Hill is a living legend. She is best known for being the first person to free El Capitan via The Nose in 1993. We talked about what it is like to be Lynn Hill in the modern climbing world, her upbringing, what sets her apart, the story of freeing The Nose, tips for shorter climbers, her mindset and affirmations, self-belief, how she makes a living these days, upcoming video projects, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tel...
Oct 10, 2022•3 hr 16 min
My close friend Taylor Fragomeni joins me for Q&A 6! We talked about ways to improve your climbing if your access to the gym or crag is limited, and we tackled Patron questions about bouldering at night, best bang-for-your-buck strength exercises, beta videos, daily hangboarding, how to warm up for max hangs on a lifting day, and route and boulder pyramids. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli ...
Oct 03, 2022•1 hr 15 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned’s three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And...
Sep 29, 2022•24 min
Drew Ruana is back on the podcast and is joined by his friend Cameron Hörst , who is one of the best young sport climbers in the country. We talked about lessons they’ve each learned from recent sends, what it was like growing up as kid crushers, training for bouldering vs. sport climbing, how to stay strong while projecting, Drew’s thoughts on climbing V18, and Cam’s thoughts on climbing 5.15c. Listen to more top episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Petzl! petzl.com Or shop for P...
Sep 26, 2022•2 hr 27 min
Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker . We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau. Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! And c...
Sep 19, 2022•2 hr 23 min
Alice Hafer is a climber, writer, and coach who specializes in mind power training . We talked about climbing her first 5.14s, her experiences with depression and anxiety and how she changed her own mind through mental training, finding an identity outside of climbing, tips for staying motivated, focusing on effort over outcomes, and using box jumps to train for climbing power. Listen to more top episodes about Mind/Mindset! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Petzl! petzl.com Or shop for ...
Sep 12, 2022•3 hr 49 min
Sam Van Boxtel is a social media expert and the founder of Climbers Crag . We talked about the business side of being a content creator, why Instagram is the best platform for the climbing industry right now, the importance of having a strong “why”, why posts go viral, how to optimize for growth, creating value on social media, playing the game, and the balance between quality and success. Climbers Crag: climberscrag.com Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a...
Sep 05, 2022•2 hr 18 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:32:46. patreon.com/thenuggetcli...
Aug 31, 2022•30 min
Neil Gresham is a British climber and coach who has been at the cutting edge for over two decades. We talked about using ballet as part of his training for his FA of ‘Lexicon’ E11, the importance of developing your finishing game, extensor training for stronger fingers, go-to ring and TRX exercises, sticking our training in the bank, thumb crimping, climbing his first 5.14c (8c+) at age 45, and much more. Listen to more top episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Frictitious Climbing...
Aug 29, 2022•3 hr 35 min
Dr. Rebecca Williams is a clinical psychologist, performance coach, and the author of Climb Smarter . We talked about the deeper fears that often underlie fear of falling, the underdeveloped self-soothing system, breathing exercises to reduce anxiety, pre-climb routines, meditation and mindfulness, and the benefits of shifting our focus from achievement to mastery. Climb Smarter: Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada) Buy from Sequoia Books (best if you are in the UK or Europe) Chec...
Aug 22, 2022•2 hr 56 min
Ryan Devlin is a television actor, entrepreneur, philanthropist, rock climber, and host of his new podcast The Struggle Climbing Show . We talked about parallels between climbing and being a TV actor, the role of chemistry in dating, how to deal with rejection, progressing from 11b to 12c in a year in his 40s, and biggest takeaways from interviewing top climbers on his podcast. Listen to more top episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Arc'teryx! arcteryx.com Arc'teryx Presents: Free...
Aug 15, 2022•3 hr 50 min
Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten are the coauthors of The Climbing Bible . We talked about their careers and proudest climbing achievements, their goal in writing their book, what holds back climbers at different levels, finger strength vs. general strength, mental strengths that separate climbers, strategies for improving technique, and the Play Box vs. the Think Box. The Climbing Bible: Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada) Buy from AdventureBooks (best if you are in the UK...
Aug 08, 2022•2 hr 21 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up is with Matt Fultz. We talked about his recent V16 sends, go-to training sessions on the spray wall, takeaways from his recent finger injury, how he incorporates hangboarding into his week, favorite hangboard protocols, why he does most of his finger training on 20mm edges, why he rarely trains on holds smaller than 10mm, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!...
Aug 05, 2022•24 min
Dorian Evers is an individual and couples therapist in Boulder, CO. We talked about navigating different stoke levels in your relationship, how to create a safe space for your partner to be vulnerable, how to have difficult conversations, common insecurities and fears in relationships, tips for long-distance relationships, vanlife dating tips, and much more. Check out Petzl! petzl.com Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link include...
Aug 01, 2022•2 hr 4 min
Callie Joy Black is a strength coach who specializes in training during pregnancy and postpartum. We talked about the most common concerns she hears from pregnant women, falling risk while pregnant, returning to climbing postpartum, strength training during pregnancy, climbing hard with kids, being selfish and creating boundaries, and being your own project. Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! And check out EP 22 with ...
Jul 25, 2022•3 hr 36 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week we’ve got another Follow-Up with Steve Maisch! We talked about my summer training plan, how to get stronger on the Moonboard, combining board climbing with weight lifting and hangboarding, when to double down on strength vs. when to mix in endurance training, my plans to try a 5.14 this Fall, and much more! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:36. patreon.com/thenugget...
Jul 21, 2022•38 min
Jesse Firestone is an elite boulderer, a climbing coach, and a climbing philosopher. He’s also a good friend of mine from Oregon. We talked about quantum leaps in our progression as climbers, Jesse’s top 3 tips for climbers at different stages, non-physical factors that affect our performance, tips for flashing hard boulders, training changes after age 30, and much more. *If you liked my episodes with Emil Abrahamsson and Martin Keller , don’t skip this one! Check out Petzl! petzl.com Or shop fo...
Jul 18, 2022•3 hr 45 min
In this short bonus episode, my friend Michelle LeBlanc joins me on the podcast to talk about Project Pride ! Project Pride is an upcoming outdoor bouldering event in Squamish, B.C, and is an opportunity for 2SLGBTQ+ individuals to connect and climb. Join us to learn more and check out the links below to reserve your spot! Preregister Here! https://www.eventbrite.ca/e/project-pride-tickets-352167872587 Gripped Article: https://gripped.com/profiles/squamish-project-pride-opportunity-for-2slgbtq-i...
Jul 14, 2022•23 min
This is my favorite episode of The American Climbing Project so far, and Devin Dabney graciously offered up the audio from his podcast so I could share it with all of you. Enjoy! Check out more episodes of ACP! americanclimbingproject.com And support Devin on Patreon! patreon.com/americanclimbingproject
Jul 11, 2022•29 min
Devin Dabney is a rock climber, routesetter, rapper, music producer, writer, and creator of The American Climbing Project podcast. We talked about using humor to talk about uncomfortable subjects, inviting people into conversations, how climbing saved his life after considering suicide, breaking down barriers to climbing, how competition makes us better, and making a difference in the climbing community. Support Devin's Podcast! patreon.com/americanclimbingproject Check out Grasshopper Climbing!...
Jul 11, 2022•3 hr 36 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Alita Contreras. We talked about mental training and how Alita trains her mind every day, what it was like working with Lattice Training, exercises and drills for improving foot tension, dealing with frustration during projecting, what it felt like to send Ferrari 5.14a, goals to climb more 5.14s, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full vers...
Jul 07, 2022•22 min
