Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta , and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast . We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/n...
Aug 23, 2021•2 hr 46 min
Christine Deyo is a professional route setter, and the former head route setter at the Austin Bouldering Project. We talked about Christine’s path to route setting, learning to be creative, setting challenges and games, the Fontainebleau circuit system, the responsibility of route setters, competitions, the role of diversity in setting, and the future of the climbing industry. Support the Podcast: thenuggetclimbing.com/support Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing ClimbWell Retreat: cli...
Aug 16, 2021•2 hr 23 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Dru Mack. We talked about how his approach has changed since our first conversation, the process of sending ‘Life of Villains’ 14d, and how he used a hangboard to improve his power endurance for the route, intentional breathing, rest day adventures, recent books, new music, and the goal of 5.15. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 48:46....
Aug 12, 2021•26 min
Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and mental training coach from the UK, known for her boldness on dangerous and difficult trad routes. We talked about common themes in mental coaching, how the ego manifests in our climbing, supporting your partners, fear of falling, and Hazel’s mental approach while projecting the legendary ‘Magic Line’, her first 5.14c. Support the Podcast Become a Patron ClimbWell Retreat: climbwell.co/retreat-rifle Use code " NUGGET10 " for 10% discount! Show Notes: th...
Aug 09, 2021•2 hr 32 min
Robb Wolf is a former research biochemist and 2x New York Times best-selling author of The Paleo Solution and Wired To Eat . We talked about his breakfast, how he tackles nutrition with his two kids, his path to the paleo diet, why low-carb is not necessarily ideal for hard-charging athletes, the importance of protein and sleep, and about his latest book Sacred Cow . Support the Podcast Become a Patron Join the Facebook Group Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robb-wolf Nuggets: 3:17 – O...
Aug 02, 2021•2 hr 36 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ron Kauk. We tackled listener questions about bouldering without crash pads, favorite routes, the legendary “fight” in camp 4, the influence of native culture, how to stay present when projecting, and the plane that crashed in Lower Merced Pass Lake in 1977. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:47:11....
Jul 29, 2021•33 min
Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. We also talked about finger training, and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different. Support the Podcast Become a Patron Join Facebook Group Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson Nuggets: 2:18 – Doughnu...
Jul 26, 2021•2 hr 2 min
Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his parents' basement, a chronology of his haircuts, vans he’s lived in, having kids, bouldering with cargo nets in Hueco Tanks, and notable highball ascents like ‘Evilution’ and ‘The Fly’. Support the Podcast Become a Patron Join Facebook Group Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jason-kehl Nugge...
Jul 19, 2021•2 hr 45 min
Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, the downward spiral of failure, her training schedule, the secrets to one-arm hangs and campusing, having fun, Instagram challenges, and learning how to topout boulders. Support the Podcast Become a Patron Join Facebook Group Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/allison-vest Nuggets: 3:24 – The...
Jul 12, 2021•2 hr 2 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some good laughs along the way. SJ also shared some of the biggest mental challenges she faced during the ascent, and a very “memorable” (and hilarious) moment from the side of the big cheese. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com...
Jul 08, 2021•12 min
Ethan missed the Q&A and had a question he wanted to ask me.
Jul 07, 2021•33 min
In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts for sport climbing, octopus wrestling, and much more. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Facebook Group: facebook.com/groups/thenuggetclim...
Jul 05, 2021•1 hr 12 min
John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book Icarus Syndrome , and his recent article about alcoholism and drug abuse in climbing. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-long Nuggets: 3:33 – Nose ...
Jun 28, 2021•2 hr 57 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with William Woodward. We talked about William’s sailing trip to Hawaii, living at sea for a month, being present, navigating digital minimalism as a business owner, top vanlife tips, how William and I each do our dishes, beta for showering, wiping your butt with wet wipes, my favorite things in my van, and what’s next. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month ...
Jun 24, 2021•32 min
Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz , and the cofounder of Lattice Training . We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall Nuggets...
Jun 21, 2021•1 hr 18 min
Kyle O’Meara is a high-level boulderer, route climber, and successful climbing coach. He’s a total lifer. We talked about his early climbing and development in the PNW, some of his favorite first ascents, outdoor bouldering vs. indoor training, climbing and life goals, discovering coaching, leading by example, and sharing the love of climbing with his team. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyle-omeara Nuggets: 3:47 – Breakfast, d...
Jun 14, 2021•3 hr 39 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Katie Lambert. We talked about her recent haircut, and how that led to getting her body painted for a photo shoot. We also talked about Katie’s new goal to climb 300 5.13s by the age of 50, how she has been integrating outdoor climbing with training, and how she structured her latest sport climbing trip to the Red River Gorge. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per m...
Jun 10, 2021•17 min
This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into climbing, how to train pinch and sloper strength, why Eric started PhysiVantage , and the importance of collagen for building stronger fingers. Discount code: “NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetcli...
Jun 07, 2021•1 hr 18 min
Eric Hörst is the author of the international bestselling book Training for Climbing and the founder of PhysiVantage . We talked about his dual career as a meteorologist and climbing coach, early route development, how training has evolved, the roles of campusing vs. hangboarding in improving finger strength, why coaching is like 3D chess, and how to train your core. Discount code: “NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show ...
May 31, 2021•2 hr 6 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Alex Johnson. We talked about sending ‘The Swarm’ V13/14, her 10+ year project in Bishop, CA. We also talked about how she prepared for the trip, how she and Bree balanced their climbing objectives in Bishop, taking time off, how to ramp back up after hitting a peak performance, planting a garden, and becoming domesticated. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per mont...
May 27, 2021•24 min
Steve Maisch is a training legend and has been pursuing improvement in rock climbing for more than two decades. Jon Glassberg credits Steve’s training methodology for his recent send of ‘The Nest’ V15 . We talked about Steve’s background in climbing and how he became interested in training, how he helped me add structure to my Hueco bouldering trip, and the 85% rule. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-maisch Nuggets: 5:10 – B...
May 24, 2021•2 hr 29 min
Ron Kauk is a legendary Yosemite climber. He recently received a Lifetime Achievement Award for his many accomplishments, within and beyond climbing. We talked about life in Camp 4 in the 70s, climbing ‘Astroman’ with John Bachar, influential music and books, stories from a brief career in Hollywood, doing the FA of ‘Magic Line’, his non-profit Sacred Rok , daily practices, connecting with Mother Nature, and much more. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenugge...
May 17, 2021•2 hr 25 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ken Klein from the Climb Strong Team. We talked about Ken’s high school baseball coach, the documentary In Search of Greatness , and the 3 things we should be assessing as climbers. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing . The full version of this follow-up call is 1:23:45....
May 13, 2021•16 min
Steve McClure is one of the best rock-climbers in the world, having made the FA of the hardest sport route in the UK at 9b (5.15b), at age 46. We talked about early hitchhiking stories, discovering sport climbing, the three parts of climbing ability, how to improve over the long haul, foot-on campusing, and much more. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-mcclure Nuggets: 4:12 – Podcasts, and the desire to listen 6:22 – Hitching...
May 10, 2021•2 hr 7 min
Heth Jennings is a Physical Therapist and Functional Medicine Practitioner who has been studying pain for over 20+ years. We talked about where pain comes from, how the brain uses pain to protect us, why chronic pain isn’t “just in our head”, how to rehab finger and elbow injuries, and other lifestyle interventions that help with recovery. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/heth-jennings Nuggets: 4:10 – Heth’s background in physica...
May 03, 2021•2 hr 2 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mercedes Pollmeier. I asked for clarifications about the J-Curl and passive stretching, and we tackled Patron questions about individual bony morphology, improving the back bridge, when and how to stretch the hamstrings, whether it is ever too late to begin training flexibility, and Mercedes made a case for why flexibility training is as important as strength training for athletes. You can support the...
Apr 29, 2021•16 min
Mercedes Pollmeier is a climbing coach with a master’s in human movement. We discussed key stretches for climbers, how to warm up for a limit session, whether or not static stretching reduces power, how to improve your flexibility in 6 minutes per day, and “food rules” from her recent book, Peak Nutrition . Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mercedes-pollmeier Nuggets: 5:14 – Wind and head colds 8:29 – Mercedes trip to Red Rocks, a...
Apr 26, 2021•2 hr 10 min
In this bonus episode, Matt Sparks joins me to celebrate Earth Day by talking about the environmental impacts of chalk, best practices, and by offering listeners a discount for Pika liquid chalk. Shop Liquid Chalk: pika.life/products Discount Code for 25% Off: NUGGETDISCOUNT Matt's Article: https://pika.life/the-environmental-impact-of-rock-climbing-chalk/...
Apr 22, 2021•35 min
Natalie Duran is a “Proish Climber”, Ninja Warrior finalist, Guinness World Record holder, television host, actor, influencer, and scientist. We talked about her new rollerskates, growing up with the pressure to become a doctor, early YouTube fame, climbing structures, studying neuroscience, brain scans, overcoming fear, motorcycles, and making a TV show. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/natalie-duran Nuggets: 3:16 – “Today is Th...
Apr 19, 2021•1 hr 27 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jon Glassberg. We talked about sending ‘The Nest’ (his first V15) and breaking down barriers as a “big” climber (6’3”, 190 lbs), we talked about some of Jon’s milestone’s over the years, how he trained his power endurance after sending the stand start’, projecting tactics, keys to success, washing his hands before tries, and more. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations f...
Apr 15, 2021•19 min
