Christophe Bichet is a world-class rock climber and a motivational speaker. He was born with a rare blood disorder called Fanconi Anemia and is also a cancer survivor. We talked about climbing as a metaphor for life, finding your “why”, learning new skills, how to achieve world-class endurance without training endurance, and holding on and letting go. GoFundMe for Kyler: https://www.gofundme.com/f/throw-down-for-kyler-pallister Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http:/...
Apr 12, 2021•1 hr 8 min
Megan Mascarenas is a multiple-time World Cup gold medalist and the 2016 Open National Champion in bouldering. She is currently 23 years old. We talked about her fascination with puzzles, why she retired from competing in 2017, discovering a new self-identity outside of climbing, pole dancing, getting back to climbing, her goal to climb V14, and current training. Support the Podcast: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/megan-mascarenas Nuggets: 6:45 – ...
Apr 05, 2021•1 hr 22 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Natasha Barnes. I asked for your questions for her on Instagram, and we tackled a wide range of topics including in-season training, shoulder mobility for climbers who lift weights, whether we should tape injured fingers, recommendations for aging climbers, why climbers shouldn’t be afraid of bulking, dealing with lower back pain, training “the position”, cactuses vs succulents, Moose the cat, printer...
Apr 01, 2021•38 min
In this Q&A, I tackle some of my patron’s most burning questions about how we getting stronger, takeaways from my experiments with nutrition and intermittent fasting, dealing with injuries, favorite training playlists and climbing books, life on the road, patterns I’ve noticed among high performers, dream guests, recommendations for first-time trainers, and much more. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Learn more about Q&As: thenuggetclimbing.com/bonus-content Show Notes: thenugge...
Mar 29, 2021•2 hr 52 min
Chelsea Murn is a climbing and business coach, and the founder of Lady Beta Coaching . We talked about making 100k in her first year of climbing coaching, recommendations for new entrepreneurs, getting uncomfortable, investing in ourselves, scarcity vs. abundance, rewiring our limiting beliefs, money mindset, and Hogwarts letters. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chelsea-murn Nuggets: 5:04 – Chelsea’s morning routines, and schedu...
Mar 22, 2021•2 hr 2 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ben Herrington. We talked about the treasure hunters mindset and clues to look for when developing new boulders, go-to tools for cleaning a new line, how to suss out moves off the deck, building landings, Ben’s new gym in the Tri-Cities, WA, and setting himself boulders that attack his weaknesses. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patr...
Mar 18, 2021•17 min
Leif Gasch has been a climber for over 25 years and now works as a trainer and coach. We talked about his path from construction to coaching, balancing training with a physically demanding job, how to be a better weekend warrior, mini-goals, breaking into new grades, warming up for hard redpoints, and much more. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/leif-gasch Nuggets: 4:36 – “Back porch kind of a deal” 5:28 – Living on the road durin...
Mar 15, 2021•3 hr 37 min
In this solo episode, I share my experience with an eating disorder. I talk about how an inaccurate DEXA scan and a desire to climb harder spiraled into body dysmorphia, failure, and shame. I also talk about what led me out of it, reframing the way I think about weight, key lessons and takeaways, where I am at now with weight and diet, and how I plan to move forward. Support the Podcast: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/my-eating-disorder...
Mar 11, 2021•45 min
Carlos Tkacz is a teacher, author, and lover of literature. He also lives in a van and climbs V13. We talked about many things, including a reading list given to him by his friend, impactful quotes, lessons learned from students, starting climbing in his 20’s and discovering training, writing a training book, self-publishing sci-fi novels, public speaking advice, and sharing ideas. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-tkacz In...
Mar 08, 2021•2 hr 27 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Emily Harrington. We talked about her send of ‘Golden Gate’ in a day, finding flow state after a minor head injury, using two pairs of TC Pros to climb the Monster Offwidth, her recent trip to the VRG, how she has trained Adrian (her partner) to climb his first 5.13b, and favorite pancake toppings. You can get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbi...
Mar 04, 2021•10 min
This is part 2 of my conversation with Dave MacLeod. We talked about key points from Dave’s book 9 Out of 10 Climbers , how he uses flexible programming to train around the weather in Scotland, his current carnivore diet experiment, and listener questions about aging, piles of eggs, disordered eating, fatherhood, Scottish climbing, and more. Support the Podcast: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-2 Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:04:10) – W...
Mar 01, 2021•2 hr 51 min
Dave MacLeod is a professional climber from Scotland and might be the best all-around climber in the world. Dave also has two master’s degrees and has authored two books . We talked about improving from 13d to 14d in 18 months , the ritual of approaching the fingerboard , how to reduce the risk of tendon injuries, interpreting scientific research, nutrient density, and more. Support the Podcast: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-1 Nuggets:...
Feb 22, 2021•2 hr 42 min
In this bonus episode, I chat with Blake Cason about ClimbWell , and upcoming retreats for Spring 2021. Blake explains what ClimbWell is all about, who the retreats are for, what to expect from this 4-day experience, and talks about her fellow coaches and their vision for future events. 10% Discount Code: “NUGGET10” Learn More about Sign Up: climbwell.co/retreat Retreat Dates and Location: April 8-11 in Veyo, Utah (Second retreat has been canceled)...
Feb 18, 2021•25 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Blake Cason. We talked about sending her multi-season project ‘Joe SixPack’ at the VRG, transitioning in and out of training phases, embracing curiosity to overcome fear, and reflecting on lessons learned. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing . The full version of this follow-up call is 33:57....
Feb 18, 2021•11 min
Kai Lightner is a professional climber and the founder of Climbing for Change . We talked about how Kai discovered climbing, his reflections on an eating disorder, the importance of flexibility for tall climbers, early racist encounters, starting a non-profit to help open doors for other people, and some of Kai’s favorite training music. Support Climbing for Change: donorbox.org/climbing-for-change-launch Support the Podcast: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com...
Feb 15, 2021•2 hr 39 min
Matt Segal is a professional rock climber and the founder/owner of Alpine Start , a company that makes “Instant Coffee That Actually Tastes Good”. We talked about how Matt got started in climbing, his nickname ‘Miami Vice’, early mentors, losing friends in the mountains, recovering from a paragliding accident, starting a business, and innovating new products. Alpine Start Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/mikeycrouch/alpine-start-with-benefits Support the Podcast: patreon.com/the...
Feb 08, 2021•1 hr 23 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mike Doyle. We talked about some of the exercises that have helped Mike in his recovery from his elbow injury, working with Natasha Barnes and retraining his brain to reduce pain, and Mike shared his go-to hangboard protocol for maintaining finger strength throughout the year between training blocks. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at p...
Feb 04, 2021•15 min
This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week training block, an example training day, the value of training with a partner, favorite Louder Than Eleven films, and foreign haircuts. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-part-2 Nuggets: 4:34 – Flexibility training, and the p...
Feb 01, 2021•1 hr 24 min
Jon Glassberg is the owner of Louder Than Eleven , a leading media production company in the Outdoor Industry. He is also a total crusher, having climbed 400+ boulders from V10 to V14. In part one we talked about filming Emily Harrington on her in-a-day ascent of ‘Golden Gate’, about Jon’s early climbing, about pursuing the goal of V15, and about his struggle with a bizarre injury. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-p...
Jan 25, 2021•2 hr 5 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Steve Bechtel. We talked about goal setting, how drinking more water can help with fat loss, the "Three Good Tries" rule, building skills vs. habits, three things to consider when choosing a training program, the value and limitations of training assessments, and why we shouldn’t necessarily depend on scientific research to tell us what to do. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up co...
Jan 21, 2021•13 min
Chris and Heather Weidner are a hardcore climbing couple, both with many 5.14s under their belt across multiple rock climbing disciplines. We talked about drink counting, New Year resolutions, current injuries, the steps to becoming a kneebar wizard, projecting tips, hard conversations, and balancing climbing goals with maintaining a healthy relationship. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-heather-weidner Nuggets: 2:41 – ...
Jan 18, 2021•2 hr 51 min
Jon Cardwell is a professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and sport climbing. Jon’s tick list includes V15, multiple 5.15a’s, and hundreds of 5.14s. We talked about lessons learned from ‘Biographie’ and ‘La Rambla’, about his off-season and pre-training modes, about bouldering for sport climbing, and about his current 5.15 project at The Fortress in Colorado. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-cardwell Nuggets: ...
Jan 11, 2021•2 hr 46 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Lizzy VanPatten. We talked about her FA of ‘Make Me Sanguine’ 5.13a—a beautiful new trad route on some of Oregon’s finest columnar basalt. This was also Lizzy's first 5.13. We talked about the process of projecting the route, about the meaning behind the name, and about breaking down the arbitrary limits we create for ourselves. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for...
Jan 08, 2021•16 min
This is a short clip that I shared at Darek Krol’s memorial service. I felt that this clip captured some of Darek’s philosophy of life, his spirit, and his humor. I wanted to share it here in case you don’t have a chance to listen through the full 3-hour episode. We will miss you, Darek. Full Episode: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/darek-krol
Jan 04, 2021•9 min
Darek Krol was known by many as the “Mayor of Rifle”. He managed to climb 400+ of Rifle’s roughly 500 routes in his 23 years in the canyon. Darek was killed in an avalanche shortly after this interview. We talked about his love of climbing, about stewardship, and about his close friend, the late Dave Pegg. Darek was well-loved, and he will be deeply missed. Darek Krol Memorial Fund: http://www.gofundme.com/f/darek-krol-memorial-fund Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/darek-krol Nu...
Jan 04, 2021•3 hr 14 min
In this episode, Steven thanks listeners for an amazing year and for supporting the podcast. He also shares some Christmas karaoke that he recorded in his van... Feedback Form: thenuggetclimbing.com/feedback Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Dec 21, 2020•5 min
This is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-2 Athletic Brewing: Promo Code: “NUGGET25” f...
Dec 14, 2020•46 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jasna Hodžić. We talked about the projecting process and Jasna’s notetaking process, what she learned from reflecting on ‘Voodoo’ 14b, and her considerations when choosing a new goal. We also talked about navigating climbing partnerships, and how to be honest upfront to avoid issues later. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/...
Dec 10, 2020•18 min
Alex Johnson is a two-time world cup gold medalist and has been climbing at a professional level for a decade. We talked about sieging ‘The Swarm’ V13, her effort to qualify for the Olympics, telling an honest story, failing publicly, lessons from coaching, coming out as LGBTQ, learning about self-love from her partner Bree, and becoming a role model. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-1 Athletic Brewing: Promo Co...
Dec 07, 2020•2 hr 34 min
My friend Trevor made shirts for The Nugget Climbing Podcast, and I am giving them away to some of you! Well, sort of... Learn more and reserve your shirt at thenuggetclimbing.com/giveaway
Dec 03, 2020•4 min
