On today’s episode of The Firn LIne, we’ll get to know climber, alpinist and author, Kelly Cordes. I first heard of Kelly back in the mid-90’s when I started seeing his name speckled across the pages of publications like Climbing and Rock and Ice. Over the years, I watched from afar as he made gutsy first ascents in the Alaska Range and beyond - always pushing himself to a higher standard, that only he knew the limit of. Later, I admired his work as senior editor of the American Alpine Journal, ...
Dec 31, 2020•1 hr 18 min•Season 4Ep. 67
In this episode of The Firn Line, I check in with author and climber, Chris Kalman. I first met Chris after reading his excellent book, As Above So Below and since then we’ve stayed in touch, connected through climbing and creativity. So I was excited when Chris announced a Kickstarter to help finish up his new novella, Dammed if you don’t . Dammed If You Don't tells the story of a deeply-conflicted photographer who tries to save Lahuenco_—_a remote valley in Patagonian Chile—by showing the worl...
Nov 30, 2020•41 min•Season 4Ep. 66
The Snow Coffin Evan tells the story of a 1996 winter attempt, harrowing bivouac, and narrow escape from a remote Alaskan mountain. The Ghost Of Aconcagua Mountain endurance athlete Sunny Stroeer tells her tale of completing the first female solo speed-circumnavigation and ascent of Aconcagua, only to have a run-in with the fabled "ghost of Aconcagua" on her way out. Visitors In The Night Montana climber Justin Willis tells the gripping tale of unexplained sounds in the night during a weekend cl...
Oct 30, 2020•53 min•Season 4Ep. 65
A young Alaskan alpinist, August Franzen, shares his story of climbing through life-changing love, and heart-wrenching grief. Links: The Devil's Thumb (AAJ) Mt. Burkett (Alpinist ) The Firn Line (Website) Patreon Sponsors: Alaska Rock Gym The Hoarding Marmot Declination Roasting...
Oct 14, 2020•37 min•Season 4Ep. 64
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know climber, skier, high-school teacher and coach, Eddie Taylor. Eddie grew up in different parts of the country. As a youth, he spent time in New Mexico, where he first learned how to ski. It was these formative experiences, alongside trips to National Parks, that instilled a deep reverence and love for the outdoors. During his high school years, Eddie moved out to Minnesota with his mom and sister, where he excelled in sports - playing basketb...
Sep 07, 2020•47 min•Season 4Ep. 63
Today’s episode is a story about adventure. It’s a story about getting scared. It’s a story of friendship and love. It’s a story about self-discovery and learning from your mistakes. But the learning in this story doesn’t take place in a formal classroom, or an online forum. Rather, It takes place in the mountains - in a small sub-range of striking peaks and glaciers, just outside of Anchorage, Alaska. It was in these peaks, known as the Western Chugach, where Brendon Lee’s life changed - in mor...
Aug 02, 2020•31 min•Season 4Ep. 62
I first met Tom Sardy in the summer of 1998. My recollection is that I was camped under the granite towers of Archangel Valley in Hatcher Pass, when my friend Zach arrived, with Tom in tow, for a day of rock climbing. Zach and I had met just a few months prior, when we’d spent three weeks guiding clients up the west buttress of Denali. We’d become instant friends on the trip, and I was glad to be climbing out in the real world with Zach, and his friend Tom. It must have been July, as the days we...
Jul 05, 2020•1 hr•Season 4Ep. 61
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know northwest based artist and mountain guide - Craig Muderlak . I first got to know Craig through his amazing illustrations in Chris Kalman ’s excellent book, As Above, So Below . His work is emotional and moody - but also uplifting and joyful at the same time. If you’ve spent time in the mountains - or live for pure moments in nature with friends or family - his work will certainly speak to you. When Covid 19 hit back in the spring, and lockdo...
Jun 16, 2020•37 min•Season 4Ep. 60
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary North American alpinist, Steve Swenson. Over the course of a climbing career that has spanned a remarkable 50 years, Steve has left a lasting imprint on the world stage of alpinism, from his roots in the Pacific Northwest, all the way to the 7 and 8,000 meter giants of the Himalaya, and the Pakistani Karakoram. His early climbs in the Canadian Rockies, which included an astounding list of classic north faces in the 1970’s, set the ...
May 11, 2020•1 hr 15 min•Season 4Ep. 59
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned climber and author, Margo Talbot . Growing up on the east coast of Canada in New Brunswick, Margo was raised in what she describes as a chaotic family environment. It was this environment, often devoid of love and compassion, that led Margo to start dreaming of a new life. But as a teenager, a new life meant hanging out away from home, oftentimes on the streets, and eventually using drugs and alcohol. By the time Margo had bec...
Apr 20, 2020•1 hr•Season 4Ep. 58
Last week I sat down for a remote chat with Valdez, Alaska-based ice climber, Ryan Sims. Ryan is an Engineer with the Valdez Fire Department, but when he’s not putting out fires, both literally and figuratively, he’s part of a new generation of crushers in the ice mecca of Valdez and Thompson Pass, where some of the best ice climbing in North America exists. But last month, Ryan teamed up with another Alaskan, the seasoned alpine zen-master, Sam Johnson, to do some exploratory first ascents far ...
Apr 07, 2020•27 min
A check in with The Firn Line community during the Covid-19 pandemic. These conversations and clips were gathered between March 22-28, 2020. Stay safe and be well - Evan Music by Evan Phillips Support the show at Patreon Sponsors: Alaska Rock Gym The Hoarding Marmot Declination Roasting...
Mar 29, 2020•49 min
The Cascades of North America are a beautiful and diverse range of mountains. These peaks, which range from sharp, granitic towers, to glaciated and crumbly volcanoes, extend all the way from southern British Columbia through Washington and Oregon - all the way to Northern California. And if you live in the Portland, OR area - there’s one Cascade peak that dominates the horizon - Wy’East or Mount Hood as it’s commonly known. The mountain, which is a dormant volcano - is a literal playground for ...
Mar 23, 2020•24 min
On today’s episode of the firn line, we’ll get to know legendary rock climber and big wall ace, Paul Gagner. Growing up in southern California in the late 60’s and early 70’s - Paul had a keen sense for adventure. This was fueled by summertime camping trips with his family, and a string of visits to National Parks. In fact, it was a fateful trip to Grand Teton National Park in his teens, that would give Paul his first taste for climbing. His appetite for the vertical world whetted, Paul started ...
Dec 21, 2019•1 hr 23 min•Season 3Ep. 12
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll dive into the final segment of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard. In the first episode, we heard Barry tell stories of his early years in the Canadian Rockies, as well as some of the formative partnerships he developed during that time. We heard about iconic routes like The Andromeda Strain, The North Pillar of North Twin, and the east face of Mount Fay to name a few. But there was one mountain - a mountain that is central ...
Dec 01, 2019•42 min•Season 3Ep. 11
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard. Barry’s name is synonymous with some of the most iconic lines in the Canadian Rockies - and his first ascents on these mythical walls are many: from the Andromeda Strain - to the north pillar of North Twin - to a gutsy climb on Mount Cephran called M-16 - and a visionary line of beauty up mount Robson’s emperor face. But like many alpinists, Barry’s career has been ...
Nov 10, 2019•1 hr 17 min•Season 3Ep. 10
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know songwriter, and mountain traveller, Jason Tyler Burton. Growing up in a working class family on the outskirts of Lexington, KY - Burton was raised hearing the stories of his grandfather, who like many Kentuckians of times past, worked hard to make a living in the nearby coal mines of Harlan County. Although Burton would take a much different career path, one thing he’s carried with him throughout his life, is an appreciation for the history,...
Oct 18, 2019•1 hr 6 min•Season 3Ep. 9
On today’s episode of The Firn line, we’ll get to know Pacific Northwest-based alpinist Mallorie Estenson. Growing up in the shadows of the North Cascades, Mallorie participated in athletics as a kid, with an inclination toward the more adventurous side of life. Eventually, this led to an interest in climbing, and for the last three years, she’s been working as a mountain guide. But Mallorie’s interest in climbing goes much deeper than the guiding life. In fact, it’s not a stretch to call her a ...
Oct 03, 2019•43 min•Season 3Ep. 8
I first heard about Steve House in 1995 - when I was living at my family's cabin on Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula. I was 20 years old, working as a park rangers assistant. Besides work, there wasn’t much to do that summer, but chop wood, go for mind-numbing afternoon runs, and fish murky waters for salmon. Unfortunately for me, the mountains were hours away. But one thing I looked forward to was my monthly subscription to Climbing Magazine. I cherished each magazine like a prized possession, and pour...
Sep 06, 2019•1 hr 6 min•Season 3Ep. 7
Training for the mountains has come a long way - even from when I started out in the early 90’s. Back then, the mantra was that actual climbing was the best training for climbing. While this is still true in a lot of ways - thinking has progressed - and a lot of that has to do with the emergence of UphillAthlete.com Founded by Scott Johnston and Steve House , Uphill Athlete has become a name synonymous with all things mountain sports, from trail running, mountaineering - to skimo racing. In 2014...
Aug 30, 2019•49 min•Season 3Ep. 6
Have you ever been on a path, where it seemed like everything was lining up the way it should be - things were going smooth, your life felt perfect - and then one day, seemingly out of the blue, something happened, and everything changed? What once felt comfortable, suddenly felt unstable. What once felt like solid ground, now felt like falling through space. As climbers and outdoorsy folks in general, we pride ourselves on being strong - both physically and mentally. We’re high achievers that s...
Aug 08, 2019•42 min•Season 3Ep. 5
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know Alaskan-based wilderness adventurer, woodworker, potter and teacher, Tony Perelli. Tony grew up in the farm country of Wisconsin, playing sports as a kid, but also developing a passion for the outdoors, fishing and canoeing with his family and grandparents. After college, Tony found himself in Alaska, working as a teacher for the Anchorage School District, and also meeting a group of friends that would introduce him to mountaineering and pac...
Jul 19, 2019•49 min•Season 3Ep. 4
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know alpinist and author, Simon McCartney. Back in the late 70’s - the norms of mountaineering were transforming - moving away from the heavy siege style tactics of the past, to the light and fast “alpine style” path of the future. Although forward-thinking alpinists had been employing these tactics in the mountains for years, only a small group of climbers we’re climbing alpine style in Alaska - and two of these climbers were Jack Roberts and Si...
Jun 27, 2019•1 hr 4 min•Season 3Ep. 3
On today’s episode of the firn line, we’ll get to know author, biologist and wilderness adventurer, Caroline Van Hemert . Caroline has an impressive life resume: She’s a mother of two boys, holds a Ph.D in wildlife biology (as well as an m.a. In creative writing), AND she just published her first book titled, The Sun Is A Compass . The book, which recently released to critical acclaim, chronicles her and her husband's 4,000 mile, human-powered expedition from the pacific northwest rainforest, al...
Jun 06, 2019•54 min•Season 3Ep. 2
In April, 2019, alpinists Alan Rousseau and Jackson Marvell flew into the Ruth Gorge, intent on repeating "Blood From The Stone", arguably one of the most difficult routes in the Alaska Range. But when the duo found poor conditions on the face, they re-directed their efforts, eventually succeeding on a new route between "Blood From The Stone" and "The Wine Bottle". The pair were harassed by a group of ravenous ravens, and endured a pummeling at their second bivy. But the suffering was balanced o...
May 16, 2019•41 min•Season 3Ep. 1
With love to the families, friends and community surrounding Jess Roskelley, David Lama and Hansjörg Auer http://www.jessroskelley.com/ http://www.david-lama.com/site/ http://www.hansjoerg-auer.at/ http://www.thefirnline.com https://www.patreon.com/thefirnline
Apr 23, 2019•9 min
AK Mountain Women is an all-female group that loves human powered expeditions in Alaska. The goal of the group is to cultivate a strong community of local women dedicated to challenging and educating themselves and others about glacial mountaineering and big remote mountains. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Music by Evan Phillips: evanphillips.bandcamp.com/album/cabin-…s-volume-one •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Links: http://akmountainwomen.blogspot.com/ www.t...
Mar 21, 2019•49 min
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know professional rock climber, Kevin Jorgeson. Over a long and ever-evolving career, Jorgeson has immersed himself in the multi-dimensional craft of rock climbing. As a youth, he honed his mental and physical skills, while progressing to the top tiers of competition climbing. Later, he tested himself on classic and technical and highball bouldering problems, from Fontainebleau to The Buttermilks. And more recently, he teamed up with Tommy Caldwe...
Jan 11, 2019•1 hr 12 min•Season 2Ep. 16
In the final episode of 2018, I go back to a September conversation with climber, educator and activist, Len Necefer. Len holds a Ph.D in Engineering and Public Policy, and is founder of Natives Outdoors, an outdoor products company whose products serve to support indigenous people. • We discuss Len's roots and identity as a Navajo, experiencing racism in college, and his love for climbing and the outdoors (among other things). • •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Music by Evan Phi...
Dec 27, 2018•50 min•Season 2Ep. 15
Growing up in the suburbs of northern Virginia, Chris Kalman was exposed to academia and team sports from a young age. But by the time he reached high school, he discovered rock climbing, and was instantly hooked. Always a deep thinker, the solitary process of combining fitness with problem solving appealed to him. • But it wasn’t until Kalman moved out west after college, to work trail crew at Rocky Mountain National Park, that a new world of adventure and self-discovery emerged. • Since that t...
Nov 30, 2018•1 hr 7 min•Season 2Ep. 14
