If you’re a climber, who consumes climbing related media like writing, video and podcasts - well, chances are, you’ve heard of Kathy Karlo. • Kathy is the creative force behind “for the love of climbing”, an entertaining and insightful blog that combines honest, to the point writing about life on and off the walls, mixed with a good dose of self-deprecating humor. • I had heard of Kathy’s renowned blog probably sometime in 2017. Although I perused thru some of her stories and photos, I have to a...
Nov 16, 2018•58 min•Season 2Ep. 13
Like many young alpinists, my early experiences in and out of the mountains were defined by a succession of monumental highs tempered with desperate lows. Maybe that’s why Jonathan Waterman’s book, In The Shadow Of Denali - made such an indelible mark on me. The collection of short stories, which is a a mountaineering classic, followed Waterman’s years as an alpinist and mountaineering ranger on Denali in the 1970’s and 80’. As a neophyte Alaskan climber, just out of high school - it affected me...
Oct 25, 2018•1 hr 6 min•Season 2Ep. 12
The Canadian Rockies are home to some of the most iconic alpine peaks in North America. Mountains like Alberta, Columbia, Edith Cavell and North Twin (to name a few) are synonymous with classic rockies alpine climbing: variable rock quality ranging from total choss, to flint hard quartzite - hanging glaciers and double cornices, veins of pristine alpine and water ice - and the classic sandbag grade of 5.9 A2. • But if there’s one mountain that stands out from the rest (Literally) - it’s Mount Ro...
Oct 11, 2018•39 min•Season 2Ep. 11
Growing up in the coastal town of Cordova, Alaska - Pryce Brown was exposed to the vast beauty of Alaska from a young age. Whether it was fishing, aviation, or later in his teens, backcountry skiing - Pryce was always drawn to the more adventurous side of life. • But it wasn’t until his college years, in the midst of a tedious engineering degree at the the University of Alaska Fairbanks, that Pryce found Speed flying - an extreme winter sport that involves a combination of paragliding and skiing...
Sep 20, 2018•1 hr 1 min•Season 2Ep. 10
On today's episode of The Firn Line, we'll get to know UK-based alpinist, Malcolm Bass. Over the course of a 30 year alpine career, Malcolm has pushed the limits of exploration of the mind, and the mountains. • From early caving expeditions in his university years, across unclimbed walls of rock and ice in the fabled Alaska Range, to a string of monumental ascents in the Himalaya, Malcolm epitomizes the character and spirit of a true alpinist. • I recently got a chance to talk with Malcolm about...
Sep 06, 2018•57 min•Season 2Ep. 9
If you’ve ever spent time flying over, or travelling thru the pacific northwest, you’ve most-likely been taken by the monolithic glacier-capped volcanoes that dot the horizon line. Giants like Mount Rainier, Hood and Adams hold court over some of the most beautiful terrain in north america - and in doing so - form an inspiring backdrop for hikers, climbers and even artists - like Nikki Frumkin. • From an early age, Nikki always had an outdoorsy and creative side, blending a love for animals and ...
Aug 23, 2018•54 min•Season 2Ep. 8
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary backcountry skier, Noah Howell. • In an epic career spanning over 20 years, Howell has established himself as one of North America’s most prolific and enduring backcountry masters. From early life-changing experiences in the Alps, thru a decade-long run of creativity at the helm of the infamous Powderwhore Productions, to a span of big mountain descents in Alaska, culminating in a recent ski decent of Mount Hunter’s west ridge and ...
Jul 26, 2018•51 min•Season 2Ep. 7
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned and visionary alpinist, David Lama. • The son of Nepalese and Austrian parents, David was was born with an affinity for movement over natural terrain, and a deep reverence for the high places. As a youngster, Lama excelled at indoor and sport climbing, dominating the competition circuit, and honing his rock climbing skills to the highest standards. But eventually, a natural progression to the mountains occurred - which has cul...
Jul 09, 2018•42 min•Season 2Ep. 6
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary Alaskan outdoorswoman, and wilderness educator, Nancy Pfeiffer. I first heard nancy’s name probably when I was around 17 years old. At the time, I was what you might call a neophyte alpinist, and Nancy was a well-known skier, mountaineer and wilderness instructor in the community, which automatically made her a hero of sorts in my mind. Although we rarely crossed paths in the ensuing years, she was always on my radar, and someone I...
Jun 22, 2018•1 hr 7 min•Season 2Ep. 5
Every mountaineer has a favorite mountain range, a place that for whatever reason centers them, gives them a piece of mind, creates a sense of belonging. For some, it might be a well-known place like the Sierras: an area of impeccably clean granite towers, speckled with pristine, aqua-colored alpine lakes and a constant supply of near perfect weather. For others, it might be the Swiss Alps, a range steeped in mountain history and culture, with a list of bold and ultra-classic lines too innumerab...
Jun 07, 2018•1 hr•Season 2Ep. 4
Growing up in the west African country of Nigeria, Adam was drawn to movement and athletics from a young age, whether it was team sports like soccer, or more solo endeavors like surfing. But it wasn’t until he moved to Canada as a teen, that he began to dabble in the sport that would ultimately shape the course of his life: running. • In his twenties, Adam narrowed his focus to multi-sport races like triathlons, and he even earned the title of Canadian Duathlon National Champion in 2004. But a f...
May 18, 2018•1 hr 2 min•Season 2Ep. 3
Alaska is a vast and wild place; a constant fluctuation of movement and changing landscapes. Rugged mountains are carved by massive, chaotic glaciers - and lush, brown-green valleys are cut by powerful silt-laden rivers. During the spring and short summer seasons, the landscapes come alive; the lowlands teeming with wildlife and colorful and fragrant boreal forests. Then in the winter, a darkness falls, blanketing the ground with snow and ice, and I quiet that you can sometimes feel, more than h...
May 03, 2018•55 min•Season 2Ep. 2
Over the course of an distinguished 30+ year career, Conrad Anker’s adventures have taken him from the bigwalls of Yosemite, to the icy flanks of The Alaska Range, The Himalaya and Antarctica. Although Anker is probably best-known for discovering Mallory's remains on the north side of Everest in 1999 (or his stunning climb up Meru), it’s his earlier adventures in Alaska that I’ve always been fascinated with. • That’s why I was excited to sit down with Conrad this past February, to talk about his...
Apr 20, 2018•53 min•Season 2Ep. 1
Sometime in the days after March 5, 2018 Ryan and his partner, the brilliant Marc Andre Leclerc, lost their lives after completing the stunning first ascent of the north face of the Main Tower in The Mendenhall’s, just outside of Juneau, Alaska. • The route, which was a dream line of Ryan’s, epitomized what he looked for in alpinism: Elements of the unknown, physical and mental challenges, as well as an aesthetic, direct and pure line. One can only imagine what it must have felt like for Ryan to...
Apr 01, 2018•1 hr 20 min
On this special bonus episode of The Firn Line, I sit down with Alaska-based mountain and backcountry ski guide Joe Stock. I first met Joe on the Kahiltna Glacier back in 2002, and was immediately taken with his enthusiasm and infectious positive attitude. That's why it was nice to sit down and catch up a few months ago. Our conversation covered topics including Joe's early experiences guiding, his backcountry ski guidebook "The Alaska Factor", as well as his thoughts on the importance of creati...
Mar 08, 2018•55 min
In March 1999 I found myself wedged in a sandy chimney, fully-gripped and trembling, five hundred feet off the deck. Me and my partner Scott were attempting to climb The Thunderbird Wall, a grade VI backcountry behemoth in Zion National Park’s Kolab Canyon. The face, which is among the highest sandstone walls in the world, had only been climbed twice since Jeff Lowe and Cactus Bryan made the first attempt in 1971. Scott had been to Zion once before. I had never stood in a pair of aiders. In hind...
Feb 14, 2018•30 min
Growing up in the Yupik village of St. Marys, Danielle Varney was raised on a steady diet of winter camping, and long summer days spent working on the family’s Yukon River fish camp. These core experiences instilled a work ethic that first carried over into college athletics, and ultimately, mountaineering. Since that time, Danielle has climbed and explored big Alaskan mountains including Denali, Mt. Drum, as well as a harrowing life-and-death experience on the icy crown of The Chugach , Mount M...
Jan 28, 2018•54 min•Season 1Ep. 22
On December 2, 2017, I had the great privilege to sit down in front of a live audience at the Alaska Rock Gym, and talk with renowned Alaskan alpinist and explorer, Roman Dial. We had a candid and highly-entertaining conversation that spanned topics including his early years in Fairbanks, his ambitious climbs in The Hayes Range in the 80’s, as well as his forays into hell-biking, tree climbing, and packrafting in the 90’s and beyond. • In some ways, Roman is a larger than life character, with a ...
Jan 11, 2018•1 hr 24 min•Season 1Ep. 21
On episode 20, I look back on 2017 and season one of The Firn Line, and give thanks to all the folks who have been with me along the way. Also, we hear a sneak peek of the first ever Firn Line "Live" with Roman Dial, which happened earlier this month at the Alaska Rock Gym. Finally, I give my rundown on why podcasting and climbing are essentially the same thing. https://www.patreon.com/thefirnline https://www.thefirnline.com https://www.evanphillips.net https://www.alaskarockgym.com...
Dec 30, 2017•17 min•Season 1Ep. 20
Many years ago, I saw Jack Tackle give a slideshow in Anchorage. I was in my early to mid-twenties at the time, and mountain climbing was the only thing that mattered. That evening, I listened intently as Jack described icefaces, corniced ridges, and run-out pitches that had long captured my imagination. But I was also impressed by the life-wisdom Jack imparted. His laid back style, coupled with a philosophy about the importance of vision, commitment and trust, resonated in a way that made sense...
Dec 14, 2017•58 min•Season 1Ep. 19
On episode 18, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with venerable North American alpinist, Jack Tackle. With his unmistakable baritone and classic unassuming style, Jack is the epitome of a true Alaskan “hardman”. His gutsy first ascents up climbs like the Isis Face on Denali, the Diamond Arete on Mount Hunter, and the Elevator Shaft on Mount Johnson, have cemented his place in the storied history of Alaskan alpinism. • Recently, I got to sit down with Jack at his Castle Valley yurt,...
Nov 30, 2017•1 hr 3 min•Season 1Ep. 18
It’s no accident that Brad Meiklejohn makes his home in a beautiful alpine valley outside of Anchorage, Alaska. An avid pack rafter, climber and skier, Brad has spent much of his life exploring Alaska and other remote corners of the world. But beyond his accomplishments in the outdoors, the mountains have always been a sacred place of reflection and self discovery, attributes that can certainly be traced to his deep family roots. • As a kid, Brad followed his grandmother and cousins on hiking an...
Nov 16, 2017•59 min•Season 1Ep. 17
In June 2017, Aaron Kurland and Sam Novey planned to attempt the formidable and rarely-climbed Father and Sons wall, but when they found the face to be out of condition, they quickly turned their attention elsewhere. • The duo settled on the ultra-classic Cassin Ridge, a 9,000 foot spine of ice, snow and granite that snakes it’s way directly up the center of the south face. With a big storm scheduled to hit within the week, the duo planned a 3 day alpine-style ascent. Little did they know, they ...
Nov 02, 2017•41 min•Season 1Ep. 16
When I was a kid growing up in Alaska, Vern Tejas was one of my heroes. Back in February of 1988, Tejas made the bold first solo winter ascent of Denali, and in doing so, captured the imagination of all Alaskans, including me. • The Denali climb changed Vern’s life. He wrote books, gave lectures and eventually became one of the most sought after high altitude guides in the world. But Alaska never remained far from Vern’s heart, and he returned each year to guide on The High One. To this date, Te...
Oct 06, 2017•1 hr 1 min•Season 1Ep. 15
A few weeks ago I got to sit down with outdoor educator and host of the excellent 'The Sharp End' podcast, Ashley Saupe. We talked about her upbringing in Alaska, her experiences teaching as an Outward Bound instructor as well as discussing what it takes to produce a monthly podcast about accidents in North American climbing. • Music: Space Song // Evan & Molly // 'Evan & Molly' (2012) Augusta // Evan Phillips // unreleased (2017) Sharp End // Evan Phillips // unreleased (2017) Traveller...
Sep 21, 2017•29 min•Season 1Ep. 14
On today’s episode, we’ll get to know Alaskan alpinist Sam Johnson. Growing up in the foothills of the Chugach Mountains, Sam was exposed to the outdoors and mountain environments at a young age. But it wasn’t until his teenage years that he discovered a newfound focus and direction thru climbing. • Since that time, Johnson has climbed extensively Alaska, Canada, Europe and even the far reaches of the Karakoram. His quiet first ascents in Alaska’s Hayes Range, including a bold solo on the South ...
Sep 08, 2017•1 hr 1 min•Season 1Ep. 13
On this episode of Short Ropes, we revisit my conversation with legendary Alaskan alpinist Carl Tobin (See episode 11). • Tobin’s climbs in Alaska’s remote Hayes Range raised the bar for hard alpine climbing in North America in the late 70’s and early 80’s. His climb up the Valdez test piece “Wowie Zowie” is an honest grade 6 ice climb, and was way ahead of it’s time when he made the first ascent in 1981 with the late Andy Embick. • In this episode, Carl and I talk about the early days in Fairba...
Aug 24, 2017•29 min•Season 1Ep. 12
On today’s episode, we’ll get to know legendary Alaskan alpinist Carl Tobin. With an alpine career that has spanned over 40 years, Tobin continues to be a force in Alaska’s climbing community to this day. • In the late 70’s and early 80’s, Tobin and a small group of committed partners, pioneered a number of first ascents in Alaska’s Hayes Range including the east face of Hess Mountain, the northeast face of peak 10,910′ and the historic east ridge of Mount Deborah. These climbs set the standard ...
Aug 11, 2017•1 hr 6 min•Season 1Ep. 11
I first came up with the idea to do The Firn Line in September 2016 - really not that long ago when you think about it. I think the truth is that i’d always wanted to somehow combine my love for the mountains with my creative pursuits. I just wasn’t sure how to do it. I guess you could say I had a light bulb moment when I realized that I could combine my passion for storytelling, the mountains, and music all into one creative outlet. Nine months and ten episodes in, I guess you could say I haven...
Jul 21, 2017•33 min•Season 1Ep. 10
From a young age, Graham Zimmerman was inspired by the rugged peaks of the New Zealand alps, and later, the cascades of Washington and the pacific northwest. • During high school, Graham developed a keen interest in geology and it was then that he would experience his first involvement with mountaineering. But it wasn’t until he returned to New Zealand for University that climbing became the driving force in his life. • Since that time, Zimmerman has honed his craft, and over the last decade he’...
Jul 06, 2017•59 min•Season 1Ep. 9
