Send us a text In today’s Lattice Training podcast, coach Josh Hadley sits down with coach Cam Hartley to discuss three key areas; Training myths and misconceptions Psychobiology and endurance performance Importance of consistency in training for climbing just one of the strongest members of the Lattice Training coaching team, but also has a BSc in Sports Science and wrote his research paper on the strength differences between the strongest and weakest hand. Since then he has begun a PhD on the ...
Apr 13, 2024•1 hr 27 min•Season 8Ep. 9
Send us a text People regularly get confused between a pulley strain and an irritation of the tendon, which Huffy has called 'crimp finger'. In this podcast highlight it explains the differences between the two to enable you to diagnose the correct injury so that you can seek the correct treatment. This podcast highlight is a snippet of our podcast with GB climbing physio, which covers various topics related to climbing injuries and rehabilitation. The Lattice jingle is brought to you ...
Apr 05, 2024•5 min•Season 8Ep. 8
Send us a text In this week’s podcast, join Lattice Training coach, Josh Hadley, as he is joined by pro climber, Nate Williams , who has been projecting ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ (V17/9A) in Las Vegas, USA, which recently saw its second ascent, by Will Bosi in February 2024. Nate’s been working on this well-known climb for over 2 seasons, since sending the stand-start version ‘Sleepwalker’ (V16/8C+) back in December 2020. In this episode, we delve into Nate's climbing journey, understandi...
Mar 30, 2024•30 min•Season 8Ep. 7
Send us a text In this episode, join host Tom Randall for an in-depth conversation with climbing legend James Pearson . James recently established ‘Bon Voyage’ (E12), a route he boldly suggests is the world's hardest trad climb, pushing the boundaries of difficulty and safety in the sport. James Pearson is a household name in the climbing world, known for his ground-breaking first ascents like ‘The Walk of Life’ (E9), as well as ascents of some of the world's hardest sport climbs. Desp...
Mar 16, 2024•58 min•Season 8Ep. 6
Send us a text Tune in to today's episode as host and coach Maddy Cope chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his six-week American adventure to free climb El Capitan's The Nose (5.14a/8b+) . This historic route, famous for its challenging granite smears, was first aid climbed over 47 days by Warren Harding and various others in 1958 and first free-climbed by Lynn Hill in 1993 (an ascent which was well ahead of it’s time!) With such a legacy, it's no surprise Billy and Ale...
Mar 02, 2024•1 hr 21 min•Season 8Ep. 5
Send us a text In today’s podcast, Lattice Coach, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk , delves deep with Emily Harrington into her recent transition to motherhood with partner, Adrian Ballinger, and their son, Aaro. Emily shares insights into her decision to have a child amidst their adventurous lifestyles and careers, and navigating the uncertainties that came with it. Emily, a multidisciplinary athlete, has major achievements, not just in international and national sport climbing competitions, but also in bi...
Feb 17, 2024•1 hr 17 min•Season 8Ep. 4
Send us a text Get ready for an eye-opening episode! Hosts Josh Hadley and Jonny Kydd sit down with renowned physiotherapist Paul ‘Huffy’ , a climbing injury expert with over 25 years of experience. He is known for attending the Olympics as Shauna Coxey ’s physio, and for having an impressive track record in diagnosing and treating the range of injuries climbers face. Discover the most misunderstood climbing injuries, common myths debunked, and get insider tips for effective rehab. Paul shares h...
Feb 03, 2024•1 hr 26 min•Season 8Ep. 3
Send us a text In today's podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with athlete Will Bosi , delving into his recent trip to Arco, Italy. Where Will was attempting to secure the second ascent of Excalibur (5.15c/9b+), and looking ahead at his plans for 2024 and his upcoming trip to the USA. Reflecting on his multiple trips to his project Excalibur , Will gives an overview of his projecting strategies and how he coped with the challenging weather conditions (which when climbing at this level takes...
Jan 20, 2024•1 hr 12 min•Season 8Ep. 2
Send us a text In today’s podcast, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coaches Roz Frugtniet and Jonny Kydd to discuss their common mistakes, challenges, and tactics for climbing projects. Roz is an experienced sport climber, having climbed multiple 8c routes and was the first British woman to flash 8a+ (Face de Rat, 8a+/5.13c, in Ceuse, France). Joined by, Jonny a renowned boulderer, who recently ticked his 5-year project that took him 110 sessions (The World is Yours, 8C/V15, in Biblins ...
Jan 06, 2024•1 hr 11 min•Season 8Ep. 1
Send us a text In today's podcast, we have one of our athletes, Mary Eden, also known as @TradPrincess joining us with Tom Randall . She has recently achieved the first female ascent of one of the hardest roof crack climbs in the world, Black Mamba (5.14b/8c) in White Rim, Utah. This route had its first ascent in 2019 by the Wideboyz , but it remained unrepeated until this year. The climbing powerhouse, who mentors many new crack climbers, wanted to take it a step further and attempt this g...
Dec 23, 2023•55 min•Season 7Ep. 12
Send us a text Lor Sabourin has been in the climbing scene for a while now! They made the first no-falls ascent of the route, ‘ Cousin of Death ’ (5.13+/7c+) in Northern Arizona, back in 2020. Then in 2021, they did an impressive ascent of ‘ East Coast Fist Bump ’ (5.14a/8b+). This was only the beginning though, this autumn, Lor outdid themselves by sending the infamous “ Stranger Than Fiction ” (5.14b/8c). This was the first redpoint since the first ascensionist Mason Earle sent the route in 20...
Dec 09, 2023•1 hr•Season 7Ep. 12
Send us a text Today Tom Randall and Ollie Torr take a step back from being humble and name some of the biggest names Lattice has worked with. They dive deep into the details behind Alex Honnold , Toby Roberts , and even Emily Harrington ’s coaching. But these are just some of the major clients Lattice has worked with, so grab a cup of tea and tune in for a juicy podcast! The main topics are: Are Pros all-rounders? Choosing priorities Is it better to climb or train more? Is it better to work fin...
Nov 18, 2023•2 hr 34 min•Season 7Ep. 11
Send us a text Today’s guest is Dan Hipkiss , the coach to ' The Stoltman Brothers ', who have held multiple World’s Strongest Man titles, a few world records and multiple international competition podiums. Dan also coaches others in the sports of powerlifting, CrossFit and Olympic weightlifting, giving him a varied background in performance training. Seeing that Dan also rock climbs, and understands the fundamentals of the sport, host Tom Randall invited him on to pick his brain in th...
Oct 28, 2023•1 hr 2 min•Season 7Ep. 10
Send us a text Tom Randall couldn’t be more excited because in today’s podcast, the Wideboyz have come together to discuss Pete Whittaker ’s latest 9a Trad send, Crown Royale ! Tom and Pete discuss all the training behind this monstrous climb. Plus, they dive in into some of Pete’s assessment techniques before training, with Pete even spilling some key tips that helped him adapt his training for his project. Key topics include: How Pete self assesses before training His training structure and ho...
Oct 14, 2023•55 min•Season 7Ep. 9
Send us a text Welcome to another exciting episode of 'This or That,' where our host, Tom Randall , is about to challenge our guest's climbing training preferences. Today's special guest is none other than Ollie Torr , the co-founder of Lattice and one of our world class coaches in the Lattice team. While we all recognize Ollie for his exceptional coaching skills, what you may not know is that he brings a wealth of experience from his years in gymnastics and coaching training...
Sep 30, 2023•20 min•Season 7Ep. 9
Send us a text Welcome back to the Lattice Training podcast! Today, we have Ollie Torr joining our host Tom Randall , for an insight into coaching V17 climbers, preparing for the Olympics and much more 😏 From coaching, Will Bosi and Toby Roberts , Tom and Ollie also have coached Tommy Caldwell and are coaching Alex Honnold for his next projects. So what is required from a coach to be able to help these high-end climbers? And how do you make the most of training when injured in order to keep at ...
Sep 16, 2023•1 hr 15 min•Season 7Ep. 8
Send us a text In this episode, Tom Randall has a relaxed and insightful chat with Lena Müller , the creator of the Ecopoint concept. Lena introduces us to her fresh take on climbing, which has been making waves on news pages and social media over the past year. After completing the 'Prinzip Hoffnung' E9/8b+ trad route using only public transport in 2020, Lena coined the term Ecopoint to capture her sustainable climbing philosophy. Join Tom and Lena as they discuss the importance of th...
Aug 19, 2023•48 min•Season 7Ep. 7
Send us a text In today's episode, Tom Randall sits down with Eric Hörst , to discuss the changes and needs of the body with age, when climbing and training. We've been listening to your feedback and understand the importance of addressing training for climbers in their 40s, 50s, and 60s. That's why we're thrilled to have Eric on the show, as he brings a wealth of experience, having trained and performed throughout various stages of life, including his current age of 59. Duri...
Aug 05, 2023•1 hr 11 min•Season 7Ep. 6
Send us a text In this second part of Tom Randal l's conversation with Allegra Maguire , they delve into the captivating topic of the Individual Zone of Optimal Functioning (ZOF). If you're looking to take your climbing performance to the next level, this episode is a must-listen. Tom and Allegra unpack the concept of the ZOF and reveal how understanding and harnessing it can lead to incredible breakthroughs on the wall. Discover practical strategies for identifying your own ZOF, from ...
Jul 22, 2023•41 min•Season 7Ep. 5
Send us a text Welcome to another Lattice Training Podcast! In this episode, host Tom Randall is joined by a special guest, Allegra Maguire , an expert in the psychology of climbing. Allegra is a Mental Coach and co-founder of Climb in Flow , known for her insightful YouTube channel, Climbing Psych. With a strong academic background in psychology and currently pursuing a PhD in Decision Making at Linkoping University in Sweden, Allegra brings a unique perspective to the field of climbing. Her wo...
Jul 08, 2023•39 min•Season 7Ep. 4
Send us a text We all know that endurance and power endurance training is incredibly effective on either a circuit board or on a rope inside or outside. But which is most useful? When should we prioritise one over the other? Is it even possible to say that one tool is better than the other? In this episode, host Tom Randall delves into the pros and cons of circuit boards versus roped climbing with the aim of helping you make the best training decisions for your climbing goals. Tom highlights the...
Jun 24, 2023•36 min•Season 7Ep. 4
Send us a text Welcome to Episode 3 of the "This or That" series, where Tom Randall delves into the complex debate route climbers often face: Should you prioritize endurance or strength training and what are the benefits and drawbacks of each? In this comprehensive episode, Tom explores both of the training methods, examining how they can affect climbing performance, style, and long-term development. Key topics covered in this episode: The benefits and drawbacks of strength training fo...
Jun 10, 2023•30 min•Season 7Ep. 3
Send us a text Welcome to Part 2 of the "This or That" series, where Tom Randall unravels the climbing training conundrum: Strength Training vs Power Training. In this captivating episode, Tom sheds light on crucial aspects such as: Deciphering the right choice between strength and power training The unique benefits and drawbacks of each approach Incorporating maximal force, muscle size, and muscular coordination in your training regimen Improving chances of injury prevention while opt...
May 20, 2023•26 min•Season 7Ep. 2
Send us a text Welcome to the inaugural episode of the "This or That" series, a podcast that explores the ongoing debates amongst climbers on which training method to choose. Tom Randall breaks down the classic dilemma of bouldering system boards versus general bouldering, providing the pros and cons of each method. With the main topics being... Benefits and limitations of bouldering system boards and general bouldering Advantages and disadvantages of each method Scenarios under which ...
May 06, 2023•29 min•Season 7Ep. 1
Send us a text In this episode, host Tom Randall and his guest Lisa Bastia n take a step away from the usual training discussions to delve into the world of philosophy and ethics. Lisa is an assistant professor at VU Amsterdam who specializes in Ethics, Epistemology, and Political Philosophy. She initially contacted Tom regarding Will and Aidan's public training efforts on the Burden of Dream replica, and her expertise in ethics led her to question the impact that training on replicas may h...
Apr 22, 2023•55 min•Season 6Ep. 13
Send us a text In this captivating episode, renowned climber Will Bosi joins his long-time coach and trainer, Tom Randall , to discuss his incredible ascent of the elusive V17, " Burden of Dreams ." Will shares insights into his journey, the challenges he faced, and how his early years in climbing shaped him into the athlete he is today. From his international competition days battling it out with Tomoa Narasaki and Jakob Schubert, to his impressive first ascents and recent accomplishm...
Apr 15, 2023•2 hr 41 min•Season 6Ep. 12
Send us a text You are on your climbing trip, and the weather takes a turn...well you are in for a treat because today's podcast is a special one! As Tom Randall and Anna Hazelnutt wait for the rain to go away, they got to ask each other some quick-fire questions. From favourite system board, to hang Vs no hang exercise preferences, this out-of-the-box podcast is here to get you thinking about your training favourites! And since it is the first one of its kind, let us know if you enjoy it. ...
Mar 25, 2023•7 min•Season 6Ep. 10
Send us a text In today's podcast, Tom Randall sits down for a solo recording on strategies and approaches to training and performance in climbers in their 40s and beyond. Tom has been a professional athlete through his 20s, 30s and now 40s and is ready to share the learnings behind performing and feeling your best when training and climbing. He will cover time management, recovery, training sessions, deload cycles, stress, sleep, and injury. Plus some of his insights on how to make the mos...
Mar 11, 2023•34 min•Season 6Ep. 9
Send us a text In today's podcast episode, Tom Randall sits down with James Pearson , one of the most exceptional climbers of his generation in the UK. Tom and James discuss his impressive career, which started with him pushing the cutting edge of the UK climbing scene in trad and hard bouldering as a teenager, after just four years of climbing. Since then, James has climbed all over the world, making a name for himself by establishing and repeating many of the world's hardest trad lin...
Feb 18, 2023•1 hr 8 min•Season 6Ep. 8
Send us a text Today we have the second part of the two-part podcast featuring pro climber Hazel Findlay . Hazel has made a name for herself in the climbing world with her impressive trad ascents up to E9/10 and recently made headlines with her repeat of the challenging Esclatamasters 9a route in Perles. In the first part of our podcast, Tom Randall and Hazel focused on the physical aspects of climbing, exploring the methods, insights and takeaways from her training with Lattice through her coac...
Feb 04, 2023•47 min•Season 6Ep. 7
