The inimitable mastermind behind Unpolished returns to join Erik & Max; this episode is a wide-ranging discussion with Mr. Tony Traina himself. It covers three large segments of discussion. First, what’s been grinding Tony’s gears lately (and some of Erik’s as well). Then a collection-building exercise of two lifelong two-watch collections: one collection at 20K and one at 200K. Finally what are some trends that we’re not paying enough attention to right now? Links Mentioned: Lange on a Nato...
Jun 13, 2025•1 hr 28 min•Ep. 67
This is the story of how Glashütte came to be, once again, the epicenter of German watchmaking. This week, Erik & Max do their best to debrief the 1994-2000 rise of A. Lange & Söhne, and particularly to tell the story of the ambitious, hard-working folks involved. This episode targets key moments in the manufacture's rise to success, central tenets to the brand’s identity, many quotes, and several fun facts you might have missed along the way. Links Mentioned: Blümlein Retrospective, wit...
Jun 02, 2025•1 hr 18 min•Ep. 66
In this qasi-Q&A format, we asked you for recommendations on watches that might be the future of collecting. Some replies were quite out there, some were unexpected, and many were rather great. This week, we give on thoughts on what you all are marking as the future classics. Links Mentioned: Berneron: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/a-first-look-at-the-berneron-annual Chris Ward: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-christopher-ward-open-balance Czapek: https://monochrome-watch...
May 24, 2025•1 hr 29 min•Ep. 65
Erik & Max are going for it now: what are the worst dials made (the ones we all should’ve loved but can’t)? This is not just a roast of Jacob & Co, but rather dials and concepts that had promise, only to fail in the execution. There’s no shortage of content here this week, apologies for the long run time. Also, what might be the greatest Only Wrist yet. Links Mentioned: A3630: https://www.fratellowatches.com/dear-zenith-bring-back-the-sub-sea-ref-a3630/ Corum: https://www.windvintage.com...
May 13, 2025•1 hr 6 min•Ep. 64
While independents, Daytonas, and PCCs return to new highs, Erik & Max turn their attention to unusual corners of watches that aren’t aggressively collected today. As long as they’re rare, well studied, interesting, and beautiful, they’re in the running this week. Plus a two-in-one Only Wrist. Links Mentioned: Questionable Cloche (last image): https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/214804 Lange Grand Comp Pocket Watch: https://www.phillips.com/detail/a.-lange-&-söhne/217289 Charlie’s Gu...
May 08, 2025•1 hr 13 min•Ep. 63
This episode covers all you need to know to begin speaking Daytona. No more needs to be said. Links Mentioned: Pre-Daytona: 3346 Zerographe: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080016/36 4113 Split: https://www.phillips.com/article/47875238/comparing-two-rolex-reference-4113-of-the-twelve-made-1 4537: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/4537-rolex-chronograph 5034: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080220/50 3525: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/monoblocco-3525-rolex-chronograph http...
Apr 23, 2025•1 hr 9 min•Ep. 62
It’s not just a Watches & Wonders retrospective this week, as Erik & Max attempt to also choose a superior vintage alternative in the same vein to each new release. There are roasts, reasonable critiques, and some unexpected loves in this year’s releases. This week’s episode covers the Land-Dweller, Calatrava, Lange Repeaters, and so much. Plus, Journe goes Geländewagen. Links Mentioned: NSO Bye-Bye: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breaking-news-cartier-nso-program Tank à Guichets: htt...
Apr 14, 2025•1 hr•Ep. 61
Chances are, you won’t agree with the ideas we’re discussing this week. And that’s the whole point. This week, Erik & Max ask, ‘What do you believe that almost no on else in watches seems to?” Discussion leads to the Fast & Furious, Triple Calendars, Dufour, Lange QPs, and Instagram. Plus, what should a very successful furniture maker wear? Links Mentioned: LUC XPS: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-brings-a-touch-of-heritage-to-the-luc-xps-with-a-new-forest-green-sector-dial Bre...
Apr 03, 2025•57 min•Ep. 60
There are small mistakes and then there is today’s topic: true faux pas. From interactions with other collectors to the way manufactures design their watches, this week is all about those social blunders. Obviously, this episode is mostly Erik & Max moaning and groaning, but there are one or two deeper points worth contemplating. In addition, the second topic at hand: if we were each to be mono-brand collectors, how would we each go about it? Links Mentioned: JPH Obituary: https://watchesbys...
Mar 27, 2025•1 hr 1 min•Ep. 59
This week is all about the Rolex that moved the brand from tool watches to luxury: the Day-Date. We cover the beginnings, chronology, famous wearers, advertising, interesting dials, and everything down to the Oysterquartz Perpetual Calendar (you read that right). It’s a more granular episode than most, but if you’ve been looking to get up to speed with the President, here’s a quick download. Plus, what should a successful private mountaineering guide spring for at 75k? Links Mentioned: https://h...
Mar 15, 2025•1 hr 6 min•Ep. 58
Auctions aren’t new, not even close. And, if we’re honest, we could’ve played history better. Today, Erik & Max have given themselves a second chance to do so, going back through auctions of the last five years and picking out favorites in the 0-10K, 10-100K, and 100K+ hammer price brackets, respectively. There were so many great buys we all missed, and lessons to be learned from them. Links Mentioned: 0-10K: VC 43031: https://www.cambiaste.com/uk/auction-0453/vacheron-and-constantin-fine-ye...
Mar 05, 2025•1 hr 8 min•Ep. 57
Yes, it’s Q&A time again. You asked (in a big way!), we answer. All the insane questions you asked us and more. This round includes crucial questions such as TR900 vs 3970, the greatest 1016 variant, our favored vintage and modern Patek Philippes of all time, independent divers (where’d they go?), views on Glashütte Original. Links Mentioned: Glashütte Original: https://www.glashuette-original.com/en/ 5711: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-nautilus-5...
Feb 25, 2025•1 hr 10 min•Ep. 56
In Part 2 of the series, Erik & Max turn their eye to the lesser discussed watchmakers alive and operating today. It’s not just independents, but it’s mostly independents. Perhaps not those you may have guessed, however. From Hazemann & Monnin to AdC, Kuan Rao, and Jean-Batiste Voit, it’s all here. Plus, what should a nightclub owner retiring to the Spanish countryside to make wine sport? And a few thoughts on this latest steel 1518. Links Mentioned: 1518 Steel: https://www.hodinkee.com/...
Feb 17, 2025•1 hr 8 min•Ep. 55
Wristwatches have been around awhile. And, in that time, a great many names haves have risen and then fallen. This week, Erik & Max discuss some of the great now-defunct watchmakers from years gone by, as well as some of their better works. And we really mean unknown. From a Tiffany-Only signed retailer calendar with a Patek calibre, to L. Leroy & Cie, where to find a JCK-half-off, or even Beyner Grimm, well, that's this week. Plus, if you're a Swiss cyclist looking for serious watchmaki...
Feb 11, 2025•57 min•Ep. 54
It’s start, stop, reset this week, as Erik & Max explore the ins and outs chronographs. The covers the Speedmasters we should all be talking about but aren’t, the true cost and impressiveness of independent chronographs, and what’s going on with the Le Mans. Greubel Hand Made 2: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-hand-made-2 Speedmaster Intro: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-omega-speedmaster-professional 2915: https://speedmaster101.com/2915-2/ 299...
Feb 03, 2025•56 min•Ep. 50
Buckle up, as Erik & Max cover a complete chronology of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph references this week. What separates the more desirable ones from the less but still very desirable ones? From 1518 to 5270, including 2499 vs 3970, this episode covers all points you need to start having informed conversations on the topic. Historic context, production numbers, differentiations between series, pointers and tips, it’s all in here. And to end it all, a debate: which is best? ...
Jan 27, 2025•1 hr 16 min•Ep. 52
Have you ever wondered if it’s appropriate to wear a dive watch on leather? This week, Erik & Max have the final answer. Plus, a Daytona on alligator? What about a VC 1921 Historiques on NATO? Contrast stitching? What faux pas exist in strap wearing if any? This, plus an analysis on Roman numerals, appropriate use, and critique of their frequent misuse. Finally, an Only Wrist to help out AP. Zuck: https://www.instagram.com/wristcheck/p/DAdsAr4Nf8l/?img_index=1 https://www.gq.com/story/mark-z...
Jan 20, 2025•56 min•Ep. 51
Today marks the 50th episode of the Hairspring podcast, for which Erik & Max are extremely honored to be joined by Ben Clymer, founder of Hodinkee. In a very candid and wide-ranging chat, we cover the arc of Hodinkee so far, Ben as a collector today, and his dream unlimited-budget 3 watch collection—amongst much else. This includes thoughts on what’s wrong with influencers, views on condition, and just how handsome Rexhep actually is. This was both a privilege and a real joy to record. 50 ep...
Jan 13, 2025•1 hr 23 min•Ep. 50
In a bit of a first, this week is a philosophical rumination. What does it really mean to be into watches and why the hell should any of us be where we are? If you want to be a professional and make it a career, what options are available to you? And what’s the difference between a dealer and a retailer anyway? Erik & Max attempt to answer and so much more. Plus, if you’re bartending and want to start conversations, what watch should you wear? Links Mentioned: Le Mans Daytona: https://www.ho...
Jan 07, 2025•1 hr 7 min•Ep. 49
Today’s independents aren’t battling over complication, they’re battling to perfect simplicity. Erik & Max asked you for your most expressive formats of Time Only watchmaking. Now, it’s time to relay some of the best three-handers the world has ever seen and why. This reaches far beyond the known models to Tortoise automatons, dad watches, 530s, Elegantes, and Klings. Links Mentioned: Max’s Goldberger Correction: https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-35/lot-110 Gr...
Jan 01, 2025•1 hr 9 min•Ep. 48
Erik & Max attempt to defy the tropes of the podcast, opting for something a bit out of character. This week they attempt to give some examples of non-independent modern watches which are quite compelling. There are picks under 10K, all the way up to crazy values. Plus, a bit of a quick auction chat. From an Egyptian President's Day-Date to a Zenith G381, it’s all in here. Links Mentioned: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-2/reference-1803-day-date-a-yellow-gold-...
Dec 23, 2024•59 min•Ep. 47
There is no way in which to avoid values when talking about serious watches; this week Erik & Max lean into that fact by building a collection around a bit of lighthearted speculation. Yes, that is faux pas behavior, but it is also a ton of fun. As a little bonus, they reflect on a year becoming more engrossed in watches to draw some resolutions for the coming year. Finally, an Only Wrist for Mr Gates. Links Mentioned: MB&F Robo-man: https://www.mbandf.com/people-spirit/collectibles/robo...
Dec 16, 2024•1 hr 3 min•Ep. 46
Erik & Max embark on a myth-busting soirée which knows no bounds. Is Rolex a Charity? Why was the platinum Day-Date never fluted? Should hands always match? Was the helium escape valve invented when Rolex worked with Comex? Hint: it wasn't Was the Minute Repeater invented for a blind Patek Philippe client? Plus, if you're dating at 36, what should you wear? Links Mentioned: Anault Spying: https://fortune.com/europe/2024/11/28/billionaire-bernard-arnault-court-completely-unaware-ex-spy-chief-...
Dec 10, 2024•1 hr 10 min•Ep. 45
In this episode, Erik & Max bring back the awards ceremony that is the Balance Cocks in a follow-up to our Most Significant Independents of the Last 25 Years episode (34). This is the same format, just with a much wider scope. Over the last 25 years of watchmaking, we award 1. The Most Beautiful Watch 2. The Ugliest 3. The Greatest Calibre 4. The Greatest Depreciation 5. The Greatest Value Watch 6. The Brand Which Has Progressed the Furthest. Plus, if you’re a Naval Submarine Commander, how ...
Dec 02, 2024•1 hr 11 min•Ep. 44
Erik & Max pause for a moment to contemplate the last year or two of the deep enthusiast watch market and where things are at this moment. This includes both a macro overview with broad trends and a finer, nuanced take on specific models. In the words of Niels Bohr, ‘It is difficult to make predictions, especially about the future.’ Nonetheless, there’s a bit of that as well. While they normally shy away from value discussions, this one is all of that at once. Finally, a collection building ...
Nov 25, 2024•1 hr 11 min•Ep. 43
Erik & Max take a listener question to the extreme: how do you go about learning in watches? Where should you be pulling information from: mainstream media, retailers, auction houses, or even forums? This episode is a deep dive on how to structure learning, or at least how one might approach it. Also, has Gronefeld lost it with the Manueel? Plus, what does the most boring man in the world wear? Links Mentioned: Gronefeld’s Grone Manueel: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-gronefeld-brot...
Nov 18, 2024•57 min•Ep. 42
You asked, here are the answers. This week, Erik & Max read out and discuss your blistering hot takes, sourced from Instagram. The conversation could not be more varied, from snowflake vs Mercedes to 2499 vs 3970 including stops at Zenith’s 3019, bund straps, and ‘Should full rotors even have display casebooks?’ It’s all here, with an Only Wrist for an art thief. Links Mentioned: Snowcone Hand on 76100: https://hairspring.com/finds/76100-snowcone-tudor-submariner/ Snowflake Hand on an MN: ht...
Nov 11, 2024•1 hr 1 min•Ep. 41
Much as they shy away from topical events, Erik & Max have to ask the obvious this week—but perhaps not in the way you think. While the conversation does come to rest on the Cubitus, this week’s chat is centered around chronicling the last two decades of slow and steady decline at one of the world’s greatest watchmaking houses. It’s not a roast; it’s a plea. From machining marks left bare on the calibre 324 to calibre 31-260 avoiding interior angles like Lange avoids exuberance, it’s all her...
Oct 26, 2024•58 min•Ep. 40
Erik & Max have a surprisingly deep conversation around some devious watch-based would you rather questions. Plus, what do we make of the WoS Hodinkee move? Independent vs modern is addressed, LF vs Journe, and many other topics. This was intended to be quite unserious but it wound up trending that way. Finally, what should an English rock musician who appreciates US culture wear? Links Mentioned: Hodinkee to WoS: https://www.nytimes.com/2024/10/04/fashion/hodinkee-sale-watches-of-switzerlan...
Oct 19, 2024•59 min•Ep. 39
Erik & Max are attempting the least-searchable list ever: what are the most un-iconic watches of all time? We all hate browsing listings and auctions only to see iconic watch after iconic watch. It’s meaningless as an adjective. This week’s episode pokes fun at the phrase by finding great watches that no one could possibly call iconic, alternative that are better just not definitely not icons. Erik & Max even dare here to ask what the first Daytona was. Discussion ranges from Phidias to ...
Oct 11, 2024•58 min•Ep. 38
