Erik & Max finally sync up with Sylvain Berneron to discuss his watches and just why they're being received so distinctly to anything else in the independent space right now. However, the chat doesn't just revolve around Berneron the brand, but Sylvain as a collector, the difficulty of branching out on your own, motorcycles, mid-century Patek, and, yes, even that fracas at Geneva Watch Days. This is the most casual, wide-ranging discussion with Sylvain you'll find, we hope you enjoy. Links M...
Oct 04, 2024•1 hr 14 min•Ep. 37
Erik & Max are reviving a fan favorite segment: watches that aren’t widely produced, but also have zero attention being shined their way. There are watches everyone loves. Then there are watches that more people should, if only they were more known. This episode is about the latter category. Many, many obscure models here to go researching and learning on. Plus, what should an F-22 pilot wear while flying? Links Mentioned: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-cartier-tank-cintree Patek Phil...
Sep 27, 2024•58 min•Ep. 36
We all know the terms. We all know they’re BS. Today, Erik & Max talk about them no-holds-barred. We assess the hype cycles that are created around watches, the language of persuasion, and how you should go about being aware of these things while making watch decisions. Plus, TAG now have F1. How should they go about it? Links Mentioned: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-greg-yuna ‘Obsidian’ Onyx Datejusts: https://hairspring.com/finds/obsidian-dial-1600-rolex-datejust/ https...
Sep 20, 2024•56 min•Ep. 35
Erik & Max have another first here, an awards ceremony. This is not the GPHG though, we’re covering a quarter century; go big or go home. Prepare for a dissection of early Journe, stories of a smashed Philippe Dufour, unexpected sales strategies, and descriptions of Max Büsser’s extreme handsomeness. We’re calling these the Balance Cocks. The first of, hopefully, many here. Links Mentioned: Conversation: Rexhep Rexhepi: https://www.akrivia.com/watch/chronometre-contemporain-rexhep-rexhepi/ h...
Sep 13, 2024•1 hr 12 min•Ep. 34
This is Erik & Max’s first episode recorded together in person, for which they’ve saved a crowd favorite: Q&A. Yes, it’s time to answer your asks. Topics range from watches that surprised us to underrated vintage picks under 10K, the best skeleton QPs, real Chinese watchmaking, and the best independent at 200K. Plus, did Lange copy Movado? This is a relentless torrent of watch opinions with no holds barred, enjoy. Links Mentioned: Watches We’ll Grow Into: https://hairspring.com/finds/1-o...
Sep 06, 2024•56 min•Ep. 33
This week is a first: a monobrand episode, but not as you might think. We are all given to love the Speedmaster, but there’s a whole world of Omega outside the Moonwatch that is waiting to meet you. This week, Erik & Max discuss some of the forgotten gems and rather beautiful references that stand in the shadow of Speedmasters. Just as some of the greatest-ever APs are not Royal Oaks, so too are some of the greatest Omegas ever made nothing to do with space. Links Mentioned: https://universa...
Aug 30, 2024•58 min•Ep. 32
Only in watches can one model or reference span from utterly dull to incredibly special depending on the variant. To highlight this unique facet of our world, Erik & Max select a handful of famous models across brands and categories, then attempt to find both the most boring version and the most exceptional or interesting version ever made. This one is a wild ride and as nerdy as it gets. Plus, an Only Wrist for a Hell’s Angel. Links Mentioned: Calatravas: Boring: https://www.fratellowatches...
Aug 23, 2024•1 hr 4 min•Ep. 31
Whether we call them pet peeves, grievances, or things that grind our gears, this week Erik & Max are enumerating all the tiny annoyances that get on our nerves in watches. Broad strokes, so as to not give the reveal away, conversational topics include photography, movements, selling watches, snobbery, significant digits, and many more. Finally, an Only Wrist for the Cold War. Links Mentioned: Olympic Elegante: https://www.instagram.com/p/C-C972ng3iG/ Olympic Seikos: https://www.fratellowatc...
Aug 16, 2024•1 hr 1 min•Ep. 30
Erik & Max are accustomed to giving watch advice to others. They’re used to competing to build the best collections for a given category. But this one is . . .more intimate. This week, they’re building collections for each other. 50K for three watches: let the cards fall as they may. Plus, if you’re a star chef, how do you balance wanting something special with being in the kitchen? Links Mentioned: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1 https://hairs...
Aug 09, 2024•1 hr 2 min•Ep. 29
Erik & Max are joined this week by their second ever guest, Justin Hast. Justin is a great champion for watch enthusiasm, a presenter, consultant, and content monster for all things wristwatches. We drill down on his own collecting philosophy, ask what the ultimate Lange 1 is, discuss the importance of brand, and how we go about learning in a changing media landscape. Plus, we ask Justin to assemble a no-budget ultimate 3 watch roll. One not to miss here. Links Mentioned: Ultimate Lange 1s: ...
Aug 02, 2024•1 hr 2 min•Ep. 28
Erik & Max are back to it, asking which references have languished most over time and, more importantly, why? No manufactures are safe. We ask why the Santos got overweight, how Lange implemented cost-cutting, why the Freccione hand doesn’t make sense on a modern dial, and ask if Breguet are even alive? Finally, a few tips to make your watch photography sing. Links Mentioned: https://www.instagram.com/p/CwNlerIuPA3/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audema...
Jul 26, 2024•1 hr 5 min•Ep. 27
Erik & Max attempt to answer a deceivingly deep listener query: what makes a given movement great? In a conversation that spans from column wheels, Valjoux VZ Audemars Piguets, and the in-house obsession, we attempt to answer. Then, Max asks a fairly impossible question: if you were given carte blanche to design any watch from any watchmaker, what would you do? Plus, an Only Wrist for a radiologist. Links Mentioned: Chronograph Points: https://revolutionwatch.com/rules-chronograph-engagement...
Jul 13, 2024•1 hr 4 min•Ep. 26
Erik & Max are discussing just what value means in watches and relating it to price in a wide ranging discussion which covers Black Bays, 2499s, early Journes, and 5711 bracelets. Then, a little chat around lessons in watches that can only be learned the hard way. Plus, what is the correct watch for a son of the Sultan of Brunei? Links Mentioned: Price Vs. Value: https://revolutionwatch.com/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-white-gold-5970-with-brick-bracelet/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...
Jul 05, 2024•58 min•Ep. 25
It’s a collection-building gauntlet this week; Erik & Max limit themselves to 3 watches, 3 handers, and the Holy Trinity. Prepare for a surprising degree of variance. And then a small interview with Max to learn a bit more about his background and an Only Wrist for an Art Thief. Plus, just where is Aldrin’s Speedmaster today? Links Mentioned: Bugatti Tourbillon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PClxnRzIE4g Three-Hand, Three-Watch Collection from the Holy Trinity for 200K US: Vacheron Constant...
Jun 27, 2024•1 hr•Ep. 24
Erik & Max tour through some of the more significant innovations ever in the history of watchmaking to ask, ‘Where are all the innovations?’ Including conversations around silicon, dubious 3940s, and trench watches. Then we invite a Rolex AD to come give a peer behind the curtain of Rolex to see how things really work. Plus, an Only Wrist to save Boeing. Links Mentioned: Innovations: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_watches https://wornandwound.com/watchmakers-bench-what-makes-it-tic...
Jun 21, 2024•51 min•Ep. 23
What does the Rolex 6238 black dial have in common with the Zenith 135? Why was Erik wrong to judge a green 5711? And what does Max think the first person to step foot on mars should wear for the occasion? All this and more, with a brief interrogation this week. Links Mentioned: The Gentlemen: https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/the-gentlemen-watches-2024 Q-Ships: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q-ship Q-Watches: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/does-great-movement-finishing-mean-a-great-watch ...
Jun 06, 2024•1 hr 2 min•Ep. 22
Erik & Max attempt to answer the question, ‘What separates good finishing from bad finishing?’ It is a question that requires them to go through all the various finishing techniques you’re likely to see in detail, explain why the Le Mans caseback is, sort of, ugly, and ask if you should care about inner angles. Plus, what should Indiana Jones have worn in Raiders of the Lost Ark? Links Mentioned: Memorial Day Article & Great Historic Watch Accounts: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/thro...
May 30, 2024•59 min•Ep. 21
Erik & Max go from the absurd to the practical with two major topics this week. The first headline is a rewrite of athlete’s watches, we make choices for what we’d like to see Michael Jordan, Ayrton Senna, Bubba Watson, and even Conor McGregor wear. Second, we get serious with a primer on vintage engraved enamel Patek Philippe dial construction and the very basics of assessing condition (including a practice session with some upcoming lots at NYC auctions). Finally, an Only Wrist which asks,...
May 24, 2024•1 hr 11 min•Ep. 20
Erik & Max engage in a battle of hot (and lukewarm) contrarian takes for our first audience-sourced Hot Takes episode. Buckle up. Plus, what is the most interesting watch in the world? Links Mentioned: https://www.nytimes.com/2024/05/10/arts/design/christies-cyberattack-website.html https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/vintage-cartier-watches-rise-explained-1234871141/ https://www.acollectedman.com/products/octa-sport-titanium-ars2-yellow-dial https://www.fratellowatches.com/can-micr...
May 16, 2024•56 min•Ep. 19
Erik & Max embark on their first collection building exercise: 3 watches from either Rolex or Tudor for 75K US. The catch is we’re requiring one 6-digit, one 5-digit, and one 4-digit watch each. Plus, some deeper thoughts on the way Tudor and Rolex are positioning themselves these days, breaking news, and an Only Wrist for a designer at Ferrari. Links Mentioned: https://www.richardmille.com/collections/rm-s14 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-watches-and-fashion-of-met-gala-2024 Six Digi...
May 10, 2024•59 min•Ep. 18
Erik & Max answer one of the great watchmaking debates that’s been raging since chronographs immemorial: 2915 Speedmaster vs 6239 Daytona. It’s a fierce topic which is addressed fairly with total bias. Discussions range from stepped subdials, radium, base 1000 bezels, solo dials, and even the relative merits of V72 and 321. Then, a tour of some fascinating Japanese watchmaking that isn’t Grand Seiko, all independent, from Hajime Asaoka to Norifumi Seki’s independent display pocket watch. Fin...
May 03, 2024•58 min•Ep. 17
Erik & Max are back to the serious debates this week, this time the most beautiful lugs of all time. We ask how Instagram has influenced the watches being produced today. And, finally, we couldn’t stay away from discussing the various controversies surrounding a few lots at this year’s Monaco Legend auctions. This ep touches on the RRCC2, Ed White, 3800, and everything in between. Finally, an only wrist for a self-described budget Bill Gates. Links Mentioned: Best Lugs of All Time: https://h...
Apr 26, 2024•1 hr 1 min•Ep. 16
This week is all about specifics of rare vintage watches; Erik & Max cover off some lots from the upcoming spring auctions and use them as muse to talk about some things we don’t see often. Stops at Watches & Wonders, Desert Eagle and Alpine Research Daytonas, special order Cartier bracelets, and 2438 Perpetual Calendars. Plus, what watch should you wear while hunting war criminals in Eastern Europe? Links Mentioned: W&W: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-golden-ellipse-is-back-o...
Apr 18, 2024•1 hr 5 min•Ep. 15
This week Erik & Max finish up the Q&A entirely. Is there more room for FP Journe to run? Why are Longines so underrated? And why does Max hate the Japanese (you can tell which one of us writes these)? All these questions and more this week, plus, an Only Wrist for someone who wants to remain neutral at W&W. Links Mentioned: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectible https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-longines-master-collection-small-seconds https:...
Apr 12, 2024•55 min•Ep. 14
This week Max & Erik have done zero work in preparation, it’s all crowdsourced: our first Q&A. Questions range from thirsty watches to asking what is the perfect neo-vintage Patek Philippe to join a collection with a 3970 and 3417? With stops at the colorful OPs, Derek Pratt, neo-IWC, and vintage Jaeger-Lecoultre chronographs along the way. Links Mentioned: https://monochrome-watches.com/daniel-roth-papillon-10th-anniversary-white-gold-watchfoodwithme-collector-interview/ https://amsterd...
Apr 04, 2024•1 hr 4 min•Ep. 13
The horological equivalent of horses for course, this week Max & Erik are presented with a randomized watch collection and veritable plethora of life situations in which to place them. The question is, which is the right watch for the scenario? Or, more accurately, what is the correct escapement for the event? Plus, an Only Wrist for an ageing rock god. Links Mentioned: The Collections in Order Assigned: https://tudorcollector.com/rosstalks/milsub-monday-the-jamaican-defence-force-tudor-9411...
Mar 28, 2024•52 min•Ep. 12
Erik & Max divulge their watch-based guilty pleasures this week, watches that we feel a bit strange to publicly profess our love toward, but we bite that bullet nonetheless. Which all leads up to a discourse on the John Mayer Royal Oak QP, Tuscan dials, celebrity partnerships, and why handwork matters. Finally, an Only Wrist for a Harley-Davidson rider in Singapore with some independents and manual vintage. Links Mentioned: Guilty Pleasures: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-pelagos-lh...
Mar 19, 2024•1 hr 7 min•Ep. 11
Erik & Max are joined by their first guest this week, Tony Traina, for a wide ranging chat including the topic you’ve all been asking for: watches made today that are unloved or not selling, which therefore might be rare and collectable in future. But that’s far from all. We cover Morgan Stanley’s yearly report on the industry as muse to ask ‘What would you do as CEO of TAG?’ and ‘How the hell does IWC price things?’. We ask Tony his unlimited budget three watch roll and wrap with an Only Wr...
Mar 12, 2024•1 hr 4 min•Ep. 10
For once, Erik & Max are not talking watches. This week, it’s all about the objects that surround them. From straps to geiger counters, roasting watch winders, and Dr. Strange, we cover all. Or try to. With a bit of bonus chat around why a market correction is making us both happier, healthier watch enthusiasts. And finally, a Miami Vice-inspired Only Wrist with a unanimous decision. Links Mentioned: New 1016 Variant: https://www.instagram.com/p/C3z8d0WrOrq/?img_index=1 Accessories Chat: htt...
Mar 05, 2024•54 min•Ep. 9
Erik & Max are firing up for a fierce debate this week. It’s a watch battle, or rather face-off, inspired from a question we get often: 16550 or 16750? What is the ultimate five-digit Rolex travel watch for the ages? Through a wide ranging and meandering chat, we attempt to answer. We cool it with a few thoughts on what makes any watch proportional (case or dial), and how to weight ‘proper’ sizing in your collecting. Finally, a hilarious Only Wrist for a college student trying to get laid wi...
Feb 27, 2024•58 min•Ep. 8
