In this episode, I sit down with Carolyn Denham, the visionary behind Merchant & Mills, a renowned supplier of patterns and fabrics for home sewers. Delving into Carolyn's rich background, we uncover her formative years as a passionate sewer in rural Yorkshire and the transformative impact of her fashion studies. Against the odds, Carolyn shares the pivotal moment that spurred her to establish Merchant & Mills, despite scepticism from those around her. From the iconic shop in Rye, celebr...
Jun 26, 2025•1 hr 34 min
Back by popular demand, Jon and Shaun join me once again for a meandering (but mighty enjoyable) chat covering all sorts — from smelly clothes and style dilemmas to menswear books, garment care, and even buying secondhand from celebs. Listener questions lead the way, and while solid answers are... a maybe, the banter is guaranteed. Settle in — it’s a good one. If you liked this episode, you may like the previous festive editions! Shaun is on Instagram as @these_ rough _notes and Jon can be found...
Jun 05, 2025•2 hr 36 min•Season 8Ep. 6
This week, we’re stepping into a cosy workshop in Cheltenham to chat with Adele Williamson, bespoke shoemaker at the legendary Tricker’s of Northampton. We explore how Adele found her way into shoemaking, the rich heritage of Tricker’s, and what makes a bespoke shoe truly special. From the surprising number of machines involved to the passionate customers who appreciate the craft — it’s a fascinating look into a proud British tradition. You can find Adele on Instagram at https://www.instagram.co...
May 22, 2025•1 hr 48 min•Season 8Ep. 5
This week, we’re heading to Sheffield in the heart of Northern England for a delightful conversation with Wendy Ward. Wendy’s journey has taken her through roles as a fashion designer, author, teacher, PHD-student and activist. You might have spotted her recently in The Guardian, where she talked about her inspiring #TakeItBack campaign — we dive into that and much more. From daily stitching rituals to reflections on how our clothes make us feel, this episode is both thoughtful and joy-filled, w...
May 09, 2025•2 hr 10 min•Season 8Ep. 4
In this week's episode, we head to Denmark for a chat with Liam Maher, something of an industry veteran with a CV that includes Timberland, Burton snowboards, Visvim, Denham the jeanmaker and Ecco shoes, among others. However, we're going to focus more on his recent book, "Menswhere - A Lost History of The Militant Guild of Rural Tailors". If that makes you curious, all will be revealed. You can find more information about "Menswhere" on the web here . The long-lost archive may possibly be found...
Apr 24, 2025•1 hr 59 min•Season 8Ep. 3
In this episode, we head to Belfast to sit down with Michael and Paul, the duo behind The Bureau — a menswear store with legendary status. Founded in 1989, The Bureau began as a bold vision from two young guys who saw space for something different. Decades later, they've built a reputation for championing quality, heritage, and timeless style, while always keeping things fresh. We dive into an honest conversation about life in retail, the evolution of the shop, navigating tough times, and the ic...
Apr 10, 2025•2 hr•Season 8Ep. 2
Garmology is back! Today I'm visited by Max Leonard and Henry Iddon, creators of the book "Mountain Style - British Outdoor Clothing 1953-2000". We have a good old natter about the great British outdoors, expeditions of yore, how creativity led to development, new fabrics for new times and much much more. You can find the book at Isola press or at most other booksellers of merit. Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast ...
Mar 28, 2025•1 hr 52 min•Season 8Ep. 1
Please note: This is the audio part of a video that I have uploaded to YouTube. You can search for "Garmology: A visit to Nigel Cabourn's studio in Newcastle" (or use the link in the show notes, or go to WellDressedDad.com to find it). Nigel Cabourn is a British menswear designer with over 50 years in the business. He has had a continuous personal brand, initially as Crickett, later under his own name, and is known for his many and varied collaborations. In 2023 Nigel Cabourn was a guest on the ...
May 16, 2024•45 min•Season 7Ep. 12
Embark on a journey of unexpected turns and intriguing transformations as we sit down with today's guest, Kenneth McClure, the sole operator of Noble & Wylie, a maker of handmade shoes based in Sheffield. Kenneth's story is a testament to the twists and turns of fate, starting from a desire to create, studying fashion, and exploring various avenues before stumbling upon the captivating world of small-scale shoe-making. Join us as we unravel the fascinating narrative that bridges the gap betw...
Apr 25, 2024•1 hr 51 min•Season 7Ep. 11
Join us on our journey to uncover hidden gems in the world of small-scale creators as we venture to Glasgow for an enlightening conversation with Gillian McNeill of LAW Design Studio. Gillian shares her journey from a budding creative spirit to establishing her own independent venture. We delve into her passion for design, her following the conventional path in fashion studies, and the pivotal moments that led her to forge her own path in the industry. Central to our discussion are the timeless ...
Apr 18, 2024•1 hr 16 min•Season 7Ep. 10
This week's guest is David Courtney of Courtney & Co, arguably the last of the traditional button makers in the UK. I was keen to invite David for a chat about how he happened into what is a rather unusual business, requiring as it does both a plethora of machinery and some rather special source materials. Not to mention the skills and knowledge to make buttons actually happen! A challenge indeed, not least when customs officers get in touch to ask about the box of white stuff that's arrived...
Apr 11, 2024•1 hr 20 min
In this episode, I sit down with Carolyn Denham, the visionary behind Merchant & Mills, a renowned supplier of patterns and fabrics for home sewers. Delving into Carolyn's rich background, we uncover her formative years as a passionate sewer in rural Yorkshire and the transformative impact of her fashion studies. Against the odds, Carolyn shares the pivotal moment that spurred her to establish Merchant & Mills, despite scepticism from those around her. From the iconic shop in Rye, celebr...
Apr 04, 2024•1 hr 34 min•Season 7Ep. 9
In this episode, we journey to Sunderland for an insightful conversation with Simon McAleese. Join us as Simon shares his journey from creating illustrations to honing an eye for sartorial intricacies. We delve into how his passion for menswear sparked the dream of launching his own brand, and navigating the highs and lows of entrepreneurship. Simon candidly discusses the challenges of balancing sustainability with brand ambitions and the nitty-gritty details of production. Plus, we explore the ...
Mar 29, 2024•1 hr 38 min•Season 7Ep. 8
Get ready to dive into the dynamic world of UK manufacturing as we jet back to the UK for a lively chat with Kate Hills. Kate takes us on a whirlwind journey through her fascinating career path, from pioneering circular fashion fresh out of college to designing quirky kids' clothing. We'll follow her adventures to Italy, where she crafted designs for Levi's while indulging in pizza, and then to the bustling halls of Burberry before navigating the twists and turns of the High Street fashion scene...
Mar 22, 2024•1 hr 47 min•Season 7Ep. 7
Join us on today's podcast journey to Oslo, a city close to home for me, where we sit down with Inger Kristin Haugsevje to explore the world of vintage denim. From discussing the evolving landscape of vintage supplies to the intersection of vintage fashion trends, we delve into the industry's nuances. Unpacking the environmental impact of extensively travelled vintage garments and the value proposition behind quality secondhand clothing, we uncover the complexities of sustainability in fashion. ...
Mar 15, 2024•1 hr 14 min•Season 7Ep. 6
In this week's episode, we venture to Brighton to meet the luminary of a distinctive musical niche, Chap Hop. Jim Burke, known as Mr B the Gentleman Rhymer, has masterfully blended gentlemanly pursuits with banjolele-infused hip hop. As customary, we delve into his background, tracing his journey from a musically gifted youth to stumbling into the world of rap, and the startling realization that tweed may not be the most practical stage attire. Supported by his faithful supporters—the Biscuits—a...
Mar 08, 2024•1 hr 23 min•Season 7Ep. 5
Step into the world of heritage menswear with this week's guest, Yuki Matsuda, the mastermind behind MEG Company and renowned brands Monitaly, Yuketen, Epperson Mountaineering, and Chamola. From his roots in Osaka to his early passion for vintage apparel, Yuki shares his remarkable journey of being thrust into the heart of the industry as a teenager sent to the US to source stock. Tune in as we unravel the tale of persistence, innovation, and unwavering passion that has cemented Yuki Matsuda's s...
Mar 01, 2024•1 hr 36 min•Season 7Ep. 4
It's no secret that podcast enthusiasts often form a connection with their favourite hosts. Granting someone access to your lugholes for hours on end, it's quite natural that over time a lopsided friendship of sort occurs. After immersing myself in Jeremy Kirkland's "Blamo!" podcast for countless hours over the years, I extended an invitation for him to join me on Garmology. Our conversation delves into Jeremy's unpredictable career journey, spanning from being in a band to music promotion to fa...
Feb 23, 2024•1 hr 36 min•Season 7Ep. 3
Buckle up for a journey through the untamed landscapes of Sussex as we sit down with Jonathan Kelly, the cheeky chap behind Sussex Tweed. Best brew a large pot as this episode is a long one. Join us as we delve into Jonathan's transformation from a burnt-out commuter to a connoisseur of exquisite tweed caps. Discover the allure of weaving yarn and the irresistible pull of dreams intertwined with the rhythmic clatter of looms. Hold onto your seat for a thrilling road trip from the vibrant streets...
Feb 16, 2024•2 hr 8 min•Season 7Ep. 2
This week on the podcast, we venture to Germany for an engaging conversation with Philipp Maertens from Taktonik. Taktonik specializes in crafting bags and other products from upcycled army surplus materials. Philipp shares how his fascination with creating was ignited by the discovery of shiny trousers fashioned from airmail bags. We delve into Philipp's unique approach of weaving narratives through the amalgamation of materials sourced from diverse origins, including his process of repurposing...
Feb 09, 2024•1 hr 39 min•Season 7Ep. 1
🎙️ Embark on a riveting journey through the tapestry of time with Sofi Thanhauser, professor and author of "Worn - A People's History of Clothing," as we unravel the stories woven into the fibres of our attire. Delve into the historical implications on society and the technological evolution of clothing, unearthing unexpected insights that might reshape your perspective. Plus, discover the intriguing world of the "Dumptique" and the art of thrifted Norwegian sweaters in Budapest – because fashi...
Jan 05, 2024•1 hr 21 min
Tragically Chris died in a kayaking accident just weeks after recording this episode. Hence a bonus repost in memory of Christopher and to celebrate that his monumental work, the website "Clothes on film" is back online. Se link in episode notes for the updated address. 🎬✨ Dive into the fascinating world where clothing steals the spotlight on the silver screen! In a cinematic rendezvous, I sat down with Christopher Laverty, the brilliant mind behind "Fashion in Film" and the Clothes on Film web...
Dec 29, 2023•1 hr 22 min
🎄✨ Join us for a festive wrap-up as Shaun, Jon, and I take a break to discuss everything from current male fashions and best buys to socks, engineer boots, and sourcing clothes from unconventional places. In this candid and lengthy conversation, we dive into weird avenues like affordability and seasonal colour analysis, sharing memorable experiences and more. It's like overhearing three guys having a conversation free of prying ears – you're invited to pry as we unravel the threads of style, su...
Dec 24, 2023•2 hr 45 min•Season 6Ep. 11
🎙️ Lend an ear to my conversation with Alice Sherwood, author of "Authenticity: Reclaiming Reality in a Counterfeit Culture," as we explore the world of counterfeit goods, unravel the secrets of brand complicity, discuss the art of storytelling in marketing, decode the incremental nature of fashion design, dissect influencer culture, and embark on a journey to uncover the truth behind the tuxedo's inventor – Yves St Laurent or Ralph Lauren? "Authenticity: Reclaiming Reality in a Counterfeit Cul...
Dec 22, 2023•1 hr 35 min
🎙️ Brace yourselves this week as we welcome Neil Christopher, the enigmatic force behind ARN Mercantile and a sought-after figure in the clothing industry. Join us as we unravel Neil's unconventional career journey, diving into the ethics of the industry and the winds of change it desperately needs. From crafting quality clothes to minimizing environmental footprints, we expose the secrets of the trade. Neil spills the beans on the not-so-great evolution of Red Wing soles, tackles the ever-rele...
Dec 07, 2023•1 hr 59 min
🎙️ Get ready for a journey through time with Marie and Will from Old Town, the maestros of modern threads with a nod to history! Join us as we start in the '80s Blitz scene, discover the unique origins of Old Town, and explore why nostalgia takes a backseat in their creations. Find out where inspiration strikes, witness the evolution of their diverse customer base, and delve into the surprising tale of a celebrity gardener turned style icon – capturing the hearts (and wardrobes) of husbands eve...
Dec 04, 2023•1 hr 31 min
🎙️ Dive into Tokyo's style revolution with author W. David Marx this week on our podcast! Uncover the fascinating tales behind "Ametora" and "Status and Culture." From the denim invasion in Japan to the ascent of Ivy fashion, we explore the intricacies of Japanese subcultures, dissect the dynamics of status, and ponder the clash between old money and new money aesthetics. Tune in for a riveting conversation that unveils the secrets of who bestows status and the challenges of boosting your own. ...
Dec 01, 2023•1 hr 52 min
Embark on an enthralling journey as we delve into the world of Sam Goates, a seasoned textile designer turned solitary weaver in the quaint port of Buckie, North Scotland. Sam breathes life into a vintage Hattersley loom, weaving bespoke fabrics for clients worldwide. Join us in conversation as Sam shares tales of her time in Australia, the intricacies of non-Harris Tweed weaving, and the challenges of maintaining a vintage loom. From the joys and frustrations of employing family members to the ...
Nov 27, 2023•1 hr 4 min
This week, join us on a captivating journey to Cologne, Germany, as we sit down with Niklas Hoppe, the embodiment of vintage flair known as Vintagebursche. From a 16-year-old metalhead to a sartorial connoisseur of 1920s fashion, Niklas unfolds his fascinating evolution. Delve into the realms of vintage recreation, role-playing, and Niklas's venture into writing a sewing book for crafting your own vintage garments. We explore the intriguing concept of "The Rules," dissecting their meaning and re...
Nov 24, 2023•1 hr 28 min•Season 6Ep. 10
This week, we embark on a journey to Brighton to talk to Allan Brown about his profound connection with nettles. Allan's unwavering commitment to crafting a garment from inception unfolded against the backdrop of his local woodlands, where the unassuming nettle became a transformative medium. Delicately harvesting and methodically drying the plants, the meticulous process of extracting fibres and skillfully spinning them into thread, culminating in the weaving of cloth and the creation of a dres...
Nov 17, 2023•1 hr 54 min•Season 6Ep. 9
