Get ready for an engaging chat with Mark Musgrave, the creative force behind the ethical micro-brand The Level Collective. They craft robust backpacks, purposeful clothing, and useful tools, blending old-world craftsmanship with a modern minimalist flair—all while championing environmental stewardship. Mark, a self-professed product design enthusiast, is an accidental entrepreneur juggling numbers while staying true to his design ethos. Collaborating with local artisans, he transforms visions in...
Nov 10, 2023•1 hr 23 min•Season 6Ep. 8
This week I'm heading back to Scotland for a chat with Clare Campbell of Prickly Thistle, a self-proclaimed rebel mill outside Inverness. From a background as a chartered accountant, Clare took a u-turn, or maybe a swerve, when she discovered a passion for the traditional tartan and from there decided to establish a mill, using ancient looms, with no clue at all about how to use them. We get into what it means to run an ethical and transparent business, getting off social media, going zero waste...
Nov 03, 2023•1 hr 57 min•Season 6Ep. 7
This week, we're diving headfirst into the captivating world of clothing with Rebecca Smith, author of "The Happy Dresser"! Join us on a journey as we explore the profound significance of garments in our lives, unlock the cherished memories they hold, and unravel the compelling stories woven into our very fabrics. We talk about the impact of fashion on our well-being, peek inside the treasure troves of our wardrobes, and get into the pros and cons of crafting our very own couture. Is social medi...
Oct 26, 2023•1 hr 31 min•Season 6Ep. 6
This week we head back to Accrington in Lancashire for a follow-up chat with Iain Trickett. We get to hear how an interest in vintage army clothing led to bringing a retired chap in Mexico back to the loom, how a high street brands cancelled order gets a new lease of life in Iain's ultimate jacket, how knocking on a door holding a pair of socks can lead to interesting things, and how tweed really is the technical fabric of the future. Oh, and much more. You can find Trickett on the web at tricke...
Oct 19, 2023•1 hr 38 min•Season 6Ep. 5
Due to illness, this week sees a rerun about my favourite cloth, Harris Tweed! This weeks episode is all about Harris Tweed, a legend among cloths and arguably the most socially significant of fabrics. My guests this week are Lorna Macaulay and Rebecca Hutton from the Hebridean Islands. Lorna is CEO of the Harris Tweed Authority, promoters and protectors of the tweed, and Rebecca Hutton, an independent single-width weaver at Taobhtuath Tweeds. We talk about the history of weaving, life on the is...
Oct 12, 2023•1 hr 15 min
Today's episode takes us to Macclesfield, where Brita Hirsch is celebrating 5 years since starting The Tailoring Academy. From an inconspicuous start upstairs at the local haberdashery shop to its current incarnation with 40 students from a wide range of nationalities and ages, both in-house and online. As per usual, the route that led there isn't straightforward and Brita is happy to share the story. Get ready for a heady mix of historical, industrial, esthetical, the Great Northern Cloth, rese...
Sep 28, 2023•1 hr 48 min•Season 6Ep. 3
Today we head to the small island of Guernsey to learn more about the legendary wool sweater often known as the "ganzie". Rachael Laine is the owner of Le Tricoteur, maker of guernseys on Guernsey and we gain insight into what exactly makes a ganzie, the historical nature of the garment, the stories of old, and how it fits into modern times. Oh, and how Rachael happened to buy her family company without realising her family had actually started it! And also, just what are the origins of the comp...
Sep 22, 2023•1 hr 21 min•Season 6Ep. 2
Season premiere! This episode is about the epic task set by Justine Aldersey-Williams of The Wild Dyery and Northern England Fibreshed to create a pair of jeans from seed entirely in the UK. You might think this sounds simple enough, grow some fibres, dye, weave and sew, right? That's what Justine thought when starting out. Listen in to hear the twisty tale of learning many new skills, finding plenty of help, a fair few unexpected problems and what might be the most costly jeans in the UK. You c...
Sep 14, 2023•1 hr 23 min•Season 6Ep. 1
Well, it's that time of the season again, when we call it a wrap, take a break and plot our movies. As usual, I'm joined by Shaun & Jon, well-known and popular voices from previous festive specials, and we have a friendly chat about what we're wearing, current males fashions, what we're into and out to, buying and selling, socks, pervy plastic jackets, collecting stuff, what makes shoes comfy, resoling, waxed jackets and whatnots. Like overhearing three guys having a conversation free of pry...
Jul 13, 2023•2 hr 1 min•Season 5Ep. 26
Something a little different today! Not a fresh slice of garmology for your ears, but by way of a feed swap, I'm introducing you to the podcast Check Your Thread, a podcast about sustainable sewing. The idea of a feed swap is to introduce a compatible podcast to a swapped listenership, so to speak, to help reach fresh ears. Check Your Thread is a weekly podcast that looks at how to sew (and live) more sustainably. For those who are concerned about the climate crisis but love sewing their own clo...
Jun 30, 2023•1 hr 1 min
Today we follow our nose and head to Oslo, Norway to chat with Rasa Maria Gundersen of Naturales Oslo about the world of scents. We enjoy a chat about her background, influences and experience, how she constructs scents, the difference between natural scents and the more commonly used synthetics, what scents mean to us on a fundamental level, and even what would be my preferred scent. And no, it's not damp wool! You can find Naturales on the web here and on Instagram as @naturales_oslo . Garmolo...
Jun 22, 2023•1 hr 28 min•Season 5Ep. 25
Today we head off to rural Northern Ireland to talk to Mario Sierra, third-generation weaver at the family-owned Mourne Textiles. While Ireland has long been known for its linen, Mario is concerned that after some parts of the linen industry were closed down around 30 years ago, the skills and technology to process flax are on the verge of being lost forever. This has led him to seek out remaining machinery for processing linen fibres and people that have the know-how and skills to operate them....
Jun 15, 2023•1 hr 30 min•Season 5Ep. 24
Today I bring back Niamh Carr of NemCee and Gary Newbold of English Utopia for a catch-up on how they are getting on. The idea was to have an open and frank chat about aspects of the fashion business from the point of view of small brands, what makes a brand, what quality implies and how that impacts how you work, etc. Suffice it to say, rabbit holes were found and scurried into! You can find NeemCee on the web here and on Instagram as @_neemcee You can find English Utopia on Instagram as @engli...
Jun 09, 2023•1 hr 55 min•Season 5Ep. 23
It's been a long time coming, but this week finally sees iconic British designer Nigel Cabourn guest Garmology for a wide-ranging and openhearted chat about why he really got into fashion design, his inspirations and heroes, the ups and downs of life and business, his love of travelling, meeting people and collecting vintage garments, the collection that never happened, and being taught fitness the traditional way. Oh, and comparing his designs to Mr Potato Head? Warning: Nigel does swear occasi...
May 18, 2023•1 hr 40 min•Season 5Ep. 22
This week's guest is Eva Kittelsen, author and visible mending activist, sewing bee contestant, fashion and textile designer and entrepreneur. We talk about her starting out in the fashion industry, her experiences in fast fashion, how getting involved in ethical production changed things and how mending came to be so important, both as a way to repair clothes and as a way to reassemble life. You can find Eva on the web at www.myvisiblemend.no , on Instagram as @myvisiblemend.no and @evakittelse...
May 11, 2023•1 hr 35 min•Season 5Ep. 21
This week's guest is Dr Kat Jungnickel, sociologist (from Goldsmiths, University of London), cyclist, tweed enthusiast and keen investigator of historical clothing patents. We talk about how the popularity of 'safety' bicycles in Britain in the 1890s became a catalyst for the women's rights movement and led to sartorial inventions and patents for new forms of (convertible) cycle wear that switched from street wear to cycle wear. Kat and her team of sewing social scientists reconstruct many of th...
May 04, 2023•1 hr 14 min•Season 5Ep. 20
This week's guest is Guy Hills, bon vivant and founder of Dashing Tweeds, makers of innovative tweed and dashing outfits thereof. We get into the joy of tailoring, menswear history, why tweed is a top technical fabric, old money fashion, tweed runs, why tailored tweed is the hard drug of garments and more. Oh, and what a true garmsman does when your wife demands you cover your cycling tweed with a reflective vest. You can find Dashing Tweeds on the web here and on Instagram as @dashingtweeds Gar...
Apr 27, 2023•1 hr 47 min•Season 5Ep. 19
This week's guest is Allon Zloof, a fourth-generation hatmaker with the family-owned Tom Smarte. We talk about different styles, a bit of history, where hats are at today, changes in the hatmaking industry, how to select a hat to suit you, sizing, materials and maybe more importantly how to find the confidence to don a hat! You can find Tom Smarte on the web here and on Instagram as @tomsmarte . Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to...
Apr 13, 2023•1 hr 25 min•Season 5Ep. 18
Today we are off to the British seaside to meet Kelly Dawson and Scott Ogden of Dawson Denim, a small maker of quality jeans. We talk about how Kelly became increasingly disenchanted with her career in the garment industry, about Japanese denim, how offering free repairs brought media mentions, meeting through the vintage music scene and how their shared interest in nostalgia has informed their designs. Oh, Scott's erratic style transformations and his years living in 1966! You can find Dawdon D...
Apr 06, 2023•1 hr 28 min•Season 5Ep. 17
In this episode, Rosanna Watson of Snowdonia Gear Repair drops in to talk about the boom in outdoor gear, designing for repairability, greenwashing in the outdoor industry, the problem with "sustainable" proofing, the balance between technical performance and durability, Goretex and synthetic fabric, why some like visible repairs and others don't and why you should start mending your clothes today. Oh, and a pro tip for one of the big things to look for when shopping for a new jacket. You can fi...
Mar 30, 2023•1 hr 33 min•Season 5Ep. 16
My guests today are Diane and James Welstead, veterans of the garment industry and entrepreneurs of well-based leg comfort, the Olaf McTarn. We talk about how the garment business has changed over the past decades, offshoring production, how textiles have changed, the joy of actually crafting things, the relevance of stories in marketing and even take a moment to consider the case for synthetic fabrics. PS: This is probably the most ASMR episode so far! You can find Olaf McTarn on the web at ola...
Mar 24, 2023•1 hr 54 min•Season 5Ep. 15
We're off to Wales this week to talk to Ruth Emily Davey about her life making shoes. We talk about how she quite unintentionally started as a shoemaker's apprentice, grew to love the craft, her mentor and friend Alan James Raddon, why we can't all wear the same type of shoes and what a community means for the craft. And what it's like to discover your unique and special invention is suddenly pirated and sold in a plastic version. You can find Ruth Emily Davey on the web at ruthemilydavey.co.uk ...
Mar 17, 2023•1 hr 29 min•Season 5Ep. 14
The week is an Ask Me Anything episode celebrating 10 years since the Well Dressed Dad blog started. The guest is your usual host, Nick Johannessen. With a wide range of reader-supplied questions, it's a rare opportunity for your regular host to get more than a few words in edge-wise and talk at length about tweed, sustainability, taking photos in the street, personal style, why the natural fabrics are the best, a fantasy custom garment, a definition of luxury, buying online and more. This week'...
Mar 13, 2023•2 hr 11 min•Season 5Ep. 13
This week I'm visited by Laura Arnold, aka Reapersower, a digital content creator and menswear enthusiast from New York. We talk about how Laura has immersed herself in classic American menswear, taken on the Ivy, dressing for ourself instead of for social media, the difference between hoarding and cultivating a collection, what is actually vintage now and daring to be different. You can find Laura on Instagram as @reapersower and blog at reapersower.com Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, ...
Mar 10, 2023•1 hr 39 min•Season 5Ep. 12
Alec Farmer of Glasgow-based backpack company Trakke guests Garmology today to talk about how he got started as a luggage designer, living in a self-made microhouse in a Scottish winter, how the early bags were artefacts of found materials, being socially and environmentally responsible, the importance of evolving the product, while at the same time repairing and recycling what has already been made. And just what do you do when a customer wants you to make a bag out of a kevlar sail? You can fi...
Mar 03, 2023•1 hr 19 min•Season 5Ep. 11
Today I welcome Malú Colorín of Talu to Garmology. Malú is a natural dyer living in Ireland, though originally from Mexico. We have a grand natter about how she came to be working with textiles, the process of natural dyes, her passion for regenerative growing and starting the Irish chapter of Fibreshed. We also go down the deep rabbit hole of indigo and what "natural indigo" really is. You can find Talu on Instagram at @talu.earth , the Talu website, and additional links here . Fibreshed Irelan...
Feb 24, 2023•1 hr 20 min•Season 5Ep. 10
This week I sit down with Bryan Szabo, author of "The Rebel's Wardrobe" and instigator of the Indigo Invitational. We talk about who the rebels were, the items of clothing they became known for and why these garments became so important. We also give a crash course in denim fades, why this is meaning full and how there is now a year long international competition to determine who has the best wear on their jeans. You can find Bryan on Instagram as @denimstrummer , also @indigoinvitational and @d...
Feb 17, 2023•2 hr 6 min•Season 5Ep. 9
🎙️ Dive into Tokyo's style revolution with author W. David Marx this week on our podcast! Uncover the fascinating tales behind "Ametora" and "Status and Culture." From the denim invasion in Japan to the ascent of Ivy fashion, we explore the intricacies of Japanese subcultures, dissect the dynamics of status, and ponder the clash between old money and new money aesthetics. Tune in for a riveting conversation that unveils the secrets of who bestows status and the challenges of boosting your own. ...
Feb 10, 2023•1 hr 52 min•Season 5Ep. 8
By popular demand, the festive special episode is back! Described variously as "like listening to three guys talk about clothes in a pub" and "clearly the most insightful and deep analytical discussion of the day", the reputation precedes this in-demand recording. This year the boys cover choice and controversial topics, such as bootcut jeans, institution core, buying vintage from Malaysia, shonky shoes for sale and how no one pays attention to our cute little outfits. Featuring Shaun Brown and ...
Dec 24, 2022•2 hr 3 min•Season 5Ep. 7
This week sees a return visit from Daniel Harris of the London Cloth co. Daniel is renowned throughout the world of weaving as a keen collector and restorer of old looms. In addition to being a staunch supporter of keeping the old ways alive, he also trains new weavers and travels far and wide helping to get old looms to run right. The reason for the return, other than to have a good natter about life as a loomsman (I totally made up this word), is that Daniels's dream of creating "Loom-Land" is...
Dec 16, 2022•1 hr•Season 5Ep. 6
