Detangle with Shahin Mannan

So , shaheen , tell us something about yourself . Well , as you know , you have already introduced me like I'm a fashion designer and I've been a part of Lakme Fashion Week and I've been doing runway shows for a couple of years now , and you know I love blending art with fashion and creating designs that makes people feel confident and unique .

How lovely , and I can vouch for that because I'm one of your biggest fans . So let's keep the fangirl moment aside and get into the conversation . Yeah , so , shaheen , tell me more about the brand . How many stores do you have ? How do you do most of your sales ? Is it online , offline ?

Where all is your presence felt right now , and what is the future of the brand looking like ? So we have three stores now , like one . Like I mentioned earlier , we have one in ambavata , one delhi , we have one in kala gora , mumbai , and one in hyderabad .

So we have three stores and we are planning uh to have more focus on our brand now in terms of the presence , because if you see uh earlier we were at multi-brand stores and if you go there you will find just like 15 , 20 , 25 designs in one time . Now , if you visit our , you'll see variety of designs .

Like there are hundreds and hundreds of designs there and we are doing men's , women's , both , so that way we want to reach more to the client . Got it Lovely ? Well , shaheen , design is a field that tempts a lot of creative people but very few actually make it to the big leagues . You know , very few people can actually make money out of their passion .

What inspired you to choose fashion design ? Did any particular person or event inspire you ? Well , at the first place , I never thought of becoming a fashion designer , it just happened to me .

But I always had that creative streak in me , like I was always doing things very differently and creatively since the start , since my childhood , I would say that and , as I said , I'm very ambitious since the start .

So the inspiration , I think , came from within , to be able to do things differently and something in life that can give me existence as an artist . Well , how lovely is that ? Because clothes are actually art that we can wear . So it's a beautiful transition . Yeah , shaheen , do you read a lot of stories ?

Because every time I see a piece by you , I feel like something is going on , there's a narrative , there is something which is beginning and ending . Yeah , that's definitely there , but you know I must tell you that I don't read much . But I'm always drawn to visuals .

You know , whether it's an image , any scenery I see , like I go to places I notice a lot of things . Or if it's just any object , you know I get lost in the details , like how it works , or small , small detailings . You see that , right , how it works , how the light is falling on any object or anything , and how it reflects .

You know the color that it shows like . So I start making up stories around these things , because that's when my imagination starts to flow , and you will notice those small details in my work too . Very interesting . I also see that a lot of your work is inspired by travel .

So are these made for the inspired traveler or as a personal ode to something that you love ? I think you know it's an ode to a very specific kind of inspired traveler , the one who travels to deepen their soul , people who are on a journey to discover their true self and have constant desire to learn and grow . I'm sure you're one of them .

If you're traveling , you're not traveling just for food and fun . You're traveling for your experience that you want to gain as a person and enrich your soul , because you never know what you're going to learn and where . These are things you can't plan . Yes , so I also noticed that when I see your designs , they're anything but predictable .

So in most designers , you know what the next season might look like . But with you , your designs are fun , they're quirky and they're yet luxe . So how do you mix all this ? There are so many emotions in a single piece . How do you put it together ? Okay , thanks , I really appreciate that .

Honestly , I just enjoy mixing , you know , different elements and letting the design come together naturally . For me , it's a very natural process . I don't put in a lot of effort to create something . For me , it's more about how each piece makes you feel when you wear it , rather than making the whole collection look the same , right ?

I love adding a bit of fun and quirky elements to each outfit and then balancing it with a touch of luxury . Like I said earlier , I want people to appreciate my work and in this way , I always feel connected to the person who wears it .

Just to give you an example , kinjal , you already have a few of our pieces right and I bet when you wear them you feel that connection to the brand or get a sense of the emotion behind it . Oh , yes , definitely , and I look forward to wearing them more because they're so comfortable . That's , that's lovely .

So , asharine , when you started out all those years ago , was it scary ? Was the audience receptive from the beginning , or did you have to spend time understanding the mind of the consumer ? Um , I , I wouldn't say it was scary , but I always uh , but I have always known that the consumer wants something that is different and has a voice of its own .

I came with a lot of experience in my craft before I started the brand , and I feel it's so important in any profession to have that deep knowledge and understanding of what you do . Only then , I think , you can get the work done right or do it yourself .

So these days , you know , I see a lot of young designers fresh out of college who are in a rush to start their own label or brand and want everything quickly , but they need to understand that you know it's not just about the design quickly , but they need to understand that you know it's not just about the design , it's about how the product feels to the

wearer and in terms of quality and finishing . And that comes from experience , right ? So do you think it's important for youngsters to work under somebody for a while ? Yeah , it should be .

Like you know , they should have experience for about I will not say number of years , but definitely because what you learn in college and what you learn when you are working with somebody or with some brand , you are just polishing your craft , where you get better understanding of everything .

And when you start a label , it becomes very easy that time that because you know you know what's what's going to work for you , what's not going to work for you , true ? So , shaheen , do you think that a formal degree matters for designers ? Nowadays , the thought is quite different .

People say why restrict yourself with a degree when you can just go creative and go all out ? What is your take on this ? I think formal degree is not the only path to success , I would say , but it's definitely gives you basic structure that helps designer understand fundamental design principles better .

So you would prefer that everyone at least gets a basic degree , and the basic degree , yeah , I think it helps . It could be one year diploma , six month course or anything , because you know it gives you that again . I said , like the fundamental design principle , that you understand that better that way , right ?

So through your work , have you seen any uh , you know solid changes coming in with respect to consumers , for example , now social media , although it has been around for a while , but now it's everywhere . So do you think consumers are demanding something different now ? Uh , I don't think so . They're demanding something extra or anything else .

It's just that they're looking for an authentic product , what I feel like now they're more aware about . You know a copy or any kind of algorithm , but I feel they're looking for something authentic , something they can own and restore for a longer time , right ?

So Do you recall any moment that you would like to define as the happiest moment for you as a designer ?

This is very interesting . I would say the happiest moment for me was the day when I opened our first flagship store in Amavata 1 , delhi , and it happened at the same time . My daughter was born . Oh , wow . So I always felt like I delivered two babies One a labor of love and the other a labor of hard work .

I would say , so , yeah , that was my happy moment . How lovely is that ? So , shaheen , if you had to give a piece of advice to your 13 year old self , if you were to meet 13 year old Shaheen , what would you tell her ? What would you tell her ?

I would tell myself that don't seek for people's validation and say no to the situation that you don't want to be in . That's it . Well , yeah , that's important because at that time , at that age , I think we all want just that one bold star , that one pat on the back .

But as we grow older , we probably realize that it's okay , not everyone's going to be happy with you , and you're not happy with everyone anyway . So , yeah , tell me about your creative process . Uh , do you think that your moods affect the way you design ?

Has there ever been a phase where you're not feeling as upbeat , but you still have to create something fresh ? Do you also hit a creative block ? Talk to me about you know this whole process . Uh , yes , sometimes , but there are many ways . Now we can refresh ourselves . Like you know , we can take a short break or change of scenery always helps .

So for me , I think , if I take a weekend off and go to a place , any place like very close to nature , I refresh myself and I'm always rejuvenated when I'm back and then I think my mental block is definitely gone . Being with nature helps me a lot . How nice .

So do you also feel that when you're in a certain mood , your resulting designs also reflect that ? And only you know I designed this when I was feeling a certain way . Yeah , I think the design process , because if you look at our designs , they're all very different . You know they're not very identical to each other .

So I think some days you know , we all have good , bad , ugly days , you know . So some days , when you're good , you know I'm creating something that I know like you know it's , it is coming out from that most , but sometimes like I'm not feeling that motivated , but still , you know I , because I want to break that , uh , what I want to break that ?

Uh , the rut , the rut , of course . So , uh , then you know when I'm designing , I know I'm in that mood , but yeah , then you know when I'm designing , I know I'm in that mood , but yeah , then you know that creative process myself . It gives me that mood lift and helps me , I think , design better , probably Very interesting .

So tell me , like , has there ever been a time when you have really enjoyed making a design but the design didn't get the same love in the market ? Any experience in that ? I don't think so . I think I've been lucky that way and I hope and pray that that never happens . Fingers crossed , yeah , fingers crossed .

Is the fashion industry , shaheen , still very male dominated , or are women now being treated with the same respect and deference ? I think our industry is pretty balanced that way . You know , there seem to be a good mix of both men and women designers , if you see , like , there's Ritu Kumar , there's Rohit Bal , there is Namika Khanna , there's Tarun Dalyani .

So don't think gender being an issue here , because I think when it comes to the consumer , they don't see , you know , if they're buying anything if it's designed by a male designer or female designer , I think they go by what they like . They go by the choice of the design rather than thinking of a designer first , and the production process .

I mean , when you're producing something , when you're dealing with your artisans , is it still balanced ? The design rather than changing of a design , of course , and have to lie in process . I mean , when you're producing something , when you're dealing with your artisans , is it still balanced ? Uh , artisan , I would not say that it's the same here in the factory .

Because , you know , here , like , mostly there are men who are doing this craft . Like the hand embroiderers are mostly men , so even the tailors are mostly men , the masters are men . So only women here is doing who is doing hemming and probably who is cutting thread .

But here I always try , like , wherever I can find that female staff , like in terms of my executive staff , I have majorly female working here , and you know the way they boss around with these people . It's kind of funny .

You should come and visit us sometime , so yeah , so that's how we can balance sometimes , you know , because for me , like I always feel , if sometimes you know these Kari would come to me that madam ne aise baat karti , then I always say agar aapse sir aise baat karte , then you didn't have a problem .

But now this ma'am is talking to you like that you have a problem . So please don't look at her . That you know she's . She's a girl or a lady , you know , just see that she's a senior and she's telling you something always .

So you know , with gradually , I'm able to get that culture in my office , where you know they get the equal respect as men , for sure , and me being a woman . So , yeah , yeah , okay , I think it's a soft balance . You know where you create that power play which is even , but it takes a little while for it to seep in .

Yes , yes , it took a little while , but then eventually I think it's pretty . It's pretty much there in my office at least . So shaheena noticed that so many designers in their stores keep very small sizes . People can't even zip up the outfits when they're trying them on . It's not a very good feeling , but in your stores there's usually something for every size .

So is that something that you are focused on with respect to larger size women ? No , uh , of course , because you know , uh , I feel when you're making a sample right earlier , initially , when I go back to my initial years , we always need samples in small sizes .

But with time we realize there are people the clients who looking for sizes which are bigger or maybe smaller than that .

So we started making our sample in different sizes and even when , when we try that on model and we get the shoot done , it's always , uh , in those sizes and we mentioned that on our website , so of course you know it helped us cater to more , more sizes .

So I think sharing this is a very basic sense of body positivity where there is a size for everyone , there is something you can try and then you can get it altered to maybe going bigger or smaller , which is very comforting , if I might add . Also , the fabric that you use seem to be quite natural . Are you also focused on the sustainability angle ?

Sustainability angle ? Yes , definitely , but in my own way , where we don't overproduce . So we only make one sample each design and put it there at the store and we try not to sell that sample , because that way we can generate orders and make it to the size the client is wanting to buy . So , yeah , this is our way of being sustainable .

It's quite important actually , because overproduction , overconsumption , everything adds up . Yeah , it adds up to a lot of things and it's you know we can do wherever I can do , play my part as a designer . Where I can help the mother earth , I will do that and I'm doing my bit . How lovely .

Now let me ask you this question which is always eating at my head when I'm talking to a creative person . Ai has arrived , and in a big way . Ai is impacting writing , it is impacting creativity in so many forms , but do you think it will impact the fashion industry also in a large way soon ? Uh , no , I I don't think so .

If it comes to creative areas like designing , you know it can never give that personal touch and can never have that emotion attached to it . So ai can never replace anything which is creative . So at least that's heartwarming to know that the creative aspect should be handled by humans .

But maybe the production will get easier eventually as we have more and more maybe technology stepping in . Maybe I've never tried that , so I'm hoping it will . But then it should not , because there are a lot of people you know who will be laid off because if AI will start functioning better or more so it is not good for the economy at all .

I think it will be one of those luxuries soon to have something made by human hand , something we take for granted . Yeah , luxury is always , you know , if you see it's about .

You know what your hands can create , what the art can create like , even if you , if you cook something with your hand like , and if something is machine made , like if something is cooked in machine . So you know the difference , you know the taste , you know the texture is different , so it's the same , right , right .

Nothing can replace that little mistake and , like we spoke during the recording of the podcast , those little mistakes are the things that make us human . Yes , shaheen , let me ask you a question that I absolutely love myself . It's a question I ask all my podcast guests .

We all have a physical first aid box at home , right , where we keep some band-aids , some painkillers , you know , for those minor cuts and bruises . But what if you were to have a mental first aid box where you could put whatever made you happy ? The minute you opened it , it makes you smile . What would you personally put in your box ?

So you know , if you remember , there is a beautiful song , you know , sung by late Lata Mangeshkar ji , I'm sure you know . So it's more of a prayer than a song , though .

So I want to keep that in my first aid box , because this song has always given me and I always switch to this song whenever I'm feeling low or I want to smile or anything that motivation I need in my life . So I want to have this prayer in that box . How nice it just seems like such a soulful and wholesome thing to have for your mental .

Yeah , yeah , beautiful . Before we come to the end of our discussion , shaheen , before we come to our closing remarks , is there any question that you have for me as a psychologist ? I think , uh , let me think , think , tell me one thing , since I'm a working mom . So how can working moms deal with the guilt of not spending enough quality time with their kids ?

Wow , that's from one working mom to another . Yes , so you know I I'm . It's very difficult for me because you know I'm working , I'm a work colleague , I I work almost 10 hours a day now earlier it was 16 , now 10 hours a day , because you know I have to give that whatever time I have to my daughter .

So , and she's still very small , she is three and a half years old and yeah , and I feel like you know she needs me all the time , so sometimes not being there , so I am always in some guilt . Well , I can answer this in two ways one is personally and one is professionally .

As a psychologist , I would say children need their parents and not just their moms . They need both parents as much as they can get their time while they're growing up . Of course , it's not possible to be around them 24-7 . Yeah , it's also important to know that when you're working , you're setting a very good example for your daughter .

So she is not just reading about successful women , she is being Ah , I never thought that place it's so interesting . And she will you know when she grows up and she says oh , you know what ? This is normal .

It's normal for a mom to be working , to be bringing in the money , to be using her creativity and being responsible , as long as you're keeping her safe , well-fed and her emotional needs in check . She will be grateful for it later on . Don't let anybody guilt you into it , because guilt is free .

People will be talking about mothers who are not working and saying , oh , look at her , she's sitting at home playing with her phone or just browsing on Instagram all the time . Those are also not good examples for children , right ?

So those women are also given the guilt , although I tell them also if you are doing this and it's the best thing for you , don't be guilty about it . The world will talk . Yeah , on a more personal note , I have two teenagers , both girls , and I have found it to be a privilege to be a part of their lives as they are growing up .

I have learned a lot from them and that's because I've had the privilege of spending time with them . I've always made it a point that I start my day early but I end by the time they're back from their school , so that I can spend that time . In fact , they have inspired me for the podcast . They have inspired so many of my guests . How lovely you know .

They come up with these random conversations . Wow , this is the person I want . How old are they ? My older one is 16 and my younger one is 14 . Wow , so it's been a very good process for me . I've been able to balance , but I won't be able to say this for everyone because everyone's processes are different . Right , your requirements are different .

If you have the privilege of time , please use it with your children . If not , don't be guilty about it and use that time very , very wisely . Make sure that the children know that this is the time mom is going to be there for us and that's enough .

They learn to make the most of it and don't let anybody guilt you into too much time , too less time , quality time , quantity time . There is no manual , there's no user guide to yes , yes , how lovely . I think you , I think I'm very sorted in terms of that . Guilt was always killing me , so I'll I'll be grateful .

Don't worry , as she grows up , she will be grateful for having a strong , working , creative mom . How nice .

Well , it's been very interesting , shaheen , talking to you about things with personal questions to me .

Like I told you at the beginning , when we were having a little chat before the recording , these are not questions that I have cooked up for you know a discussion to be recorded but these are questions I had in my mind because I've enjoyed your process without even having met you .

But you've been able to put your personality as art into fabric , which has made people happy , which has made a special place in the art world , in the fashion world , and I'm so glad that I could ask you about . You know how you work and how you plan to grow in your brand . So thank you so much for giving me so much time and being on my podcast today .

Thank you , kinjal . I think the pleasure was all mine . I had a great time speaking to you about everything . We spoke . Well , thanks so much . Thank you so much .