We talk about the mesmerising Jean Dubuffet exhibition at Barbican Art Gallery in London and the wonderful works of mediumistic artist Madge Gill. See links below. ‘Chintz: Cotton in Bloom’, Fashion and Textile Museum, London (18 May – 12 September 2021): https://www.ftmlondon.org/ftm-exhibitions/chintz-cotton-in-bloom/ ‘Jean Dubuffet: Brutal Beauty’, Barbican Art Gallery, London (17 May 2021 – 22 August 2021): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2021/event/jean-dubuffet-brutal-beauty Fondation...
Jun 13, 2021•27 min
We talk about Zanele Muholi’s incredible exhibition at Tate Modern in London. See links below. Zanele Muholi, Tate Modern, London (5 November 2020 – 31 May 2021): https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/zanele-muholi Zanele Muholi: In Conversation with Lady Phyll | Artist's Talk | Tate Exchange (18 November 2020): https://youtu.be/4gzzNRKh2vs Zanele Muholi, ‘Katlego Mashiloane and Nosipho Lavuta, Ext. 2, Lakeside, Johannesburg’ (2007): https://g.co/arts/VhjExsG7BMXQrLsJA Zanele M...
Jun 06, 2021•27 min
We discuss the publication of Archivist Addendum - unboxed live on the podcast - and the first title in the new book series Fashion: Visual & Material Interconnections: Alison Toplis’s The Hidden History of the Smock Frock. See links below. Archivist Addendum: Fashion Interpretations: https://tenderbooks.co.uk/products/archivist-addendum Fashion Interpretations: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/ Blaak: https://www.showstudio.com/contributors/blaak The Courtauld, ‘Fashion:...
May 29, 2021•25 min
We talk about the work involved in preparing dress and textile objects for a museum collection. See links below. Dress and textiles at the Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/collections/about-our-collections/what-we-collect/dress-and-textiles London’s Fashion Alphabet, Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/londons-fashion-alphabet Kim Philpotts’ 1980s/90s clothes: https://tinyurl.com/79t5zpzn Halima Khanom, ‘What Muslims Wear’, Museum of London (18 Ma...
May 23, 2021•24 min
We discuss the new Netflix series on Halston - just how accurate is it? And how will they turn fashion design into entertainment? See links below. Daniel Minahan (director), Jeriana San Juan (costume designer), Halston (2021): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9569546/ Leigh Nordstrom, ‘Cutting the “Halston” Cloth’, WWD (14 May 2021): https://wwd.com/eye/lifestyle/halston-netflix-costumes-ewan-mcgregor-jeriana-san-juan-1234822920/ Netflix Staff, ‘The Fashion Behind Halston’ (13 May 2021): https://abo...
May 16, 2021•22 min
We discuss the problematics of Mahogany - the 1975 Diana Ross star vehicle that combines fashion, politics and melodrama. See links below. Berry Gordon (director), Diana Ross (costume design), Susan Gertsman (wardrobe coordinator: Ms Ross), Jay Hurley (costumer), Annalisa Nasalli-Rocca (wardrobe supervisor), Mahogany (1975): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073335/ Richard Dyer, ‘Diana Ross’, Marxism Today (June 1982): http://banmarchive.org.uk/collections/mt/pdf/82_06_36a.pdf Success: Richard Dyer...
May 09, 2021•31 min
We remember Alber Elbaz and his wonderful design sensibility and talk about the amazing jewels on view at Bonhams this week. See links below. Present & Correct: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/ AZ Factory Show Fashion by Alber Elbaz (26 January 2021): https://youtu.be/wssdl8xlZSk AZ Factory: https://www.azfactory.com/ Geoffrey Beene: A Duet of Fashion + Movement, Phoenix Art Museum (2021): http://www.arizonacostumeinstitute.org/geoffrey-beene-virtual-unveiling-fundraiser Loïc Prigent (dire...
May 02, 2021•32 min
We marvel at the amazing hairstyles, hats, handbags, and clothes (designed by Marcel Rochas) in Jacques Becker’s 1945 film Falbalas, set in a Paris couture house. See links below. Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/ Marcel Rochas: https://www.instagram.com/rochasofficial/ and https://rochas.com/en/in-the-eyes-of-marcel/ Violette Leduc, ‘Cette oeuvre d’art fugitive: Une Vitrine’, Pour Elle (1 January 1942): https://gallica.bnf.f...
Apr 25, 2021•34 min
We talk about two films featuring the mesmerising Anna May Wong: Piccadilly (1929) and Daughter of Shanghai (1937). See links below. Ewald André Dupont (director), Piccadilly (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020269/ Robert Florey (director), Daughter of Shanghai (1937): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028770/ Costume worn by Anna Mae Wong in Daughter of Shanghai: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5634636 Brian Taves, Daughter of Shanghai, Library of Congress (undated): https://www.loc.gov/...
Mar 21, 2021•29 min
We all need some light relief, so join us (again) to play ‘If I Was a Painting’. See links below. Jacques-Louis David, Madame Récamier, née Julie (known as Juliette) Bernard (1777-1849), known as Portrait of Juliette Récamier, Musée du Louvre, Paris (1800): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/madame-recamier François Gérard, Portrait de Juliette Récamier, Musée Carnavalet, Paris (c. 1805): http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/fr/collections/portrait-de-juliette-recamier-1777-1849 Jan van Eyck, The...
Mar 14, 2021•28 min
We talk about Alison Ellwood’s documentary about The Go-Go’s and the band members’ fabulous clothes, hair and make-up. See links below. Alison Ellwood (director), The Go-Go’s (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11394468/ The Go-Go’s (2020) Official Trailer, Showtime Documentary Film (1 July 2020): https://youtu.be/GsiRfL11I08 Variety, ‘The Go-Go’s dive into their history in new documentary at Sundance’ (28 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHS5gdKSUcY Keaton Bell, ‘How the Go-Go’s ...
Mar 07, 2021•23 min
We talk about Kent State University Museum’s inspiring exhibition ‘Stitched: Regional Dress Across Europe’. See links below. Kent State University Museum: https://www.instagram.com/ksumuseum/ Jean L. Druesedow: https://www.kent.edu/museum/profile/jean-l-druesedow Shannon Rodgers and Jerry Silverman papers, Kent State University Libraries: https://www.library.kent.edu/special-collections-and-archives/shannon-rodgers-and-jerry-silverman-papers ‘Stitched: Regional Dress Across Europe’, Kent State U...
Feb 28, 2021•28 min
We talk about the challenges of packing museum objects and Poiret’s and Drecoll’s dresses for Jean Epstein’s 1925 film ‘Le Double Amour’. See links below. How to store a wedding dress, Museum of London (16 September 2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHcQug5ZJd4 Jean Epstein (director); Drecoll, Paul Poiret (dresses for Nathalie Lissenko); Pierre Kéfer (décors, executed by Lazare Meerson), Le Double Amour (1925): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0237181/ Le Double Amour on the Cinémathèque franç...
Feb 21, 2021•35 min
We marvel at the costumes and puzzle over the plot line of Jean Epstein’s 1924 silent film ‘Le Lion des Mogols’. See links below. Nike GO FlyEase: https://news.nike.com/news/nike-go-flyease-hands-free-shoe Cornercopia Store: https://cornercopiastore.co.uk/ Jean Epstein (director), Boris Bilinsky (costume design), The Lion of the Moguls (1924): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0191246/ Le Lion de Mogols on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48393-le-lion-des-mo...
Feb 14, 2021•36 min
We discuss gender and race relations and the use of clothes in Ann Petry’s 1946 novel The Street. See links below. Ann Petry, The Street (Virago 2019, first published 1946): https://www.virago.co.uk/titles/ann-petry-5/the-street/9780349012926/ Ann Petry, The Narrows (Virago 2020, first published 1953): https://www.virago.co.uk/titles/ann-petry-5/the-narrows/9780349013398/ Biographical information for Ann Petry at New York Public Library: http://archives.nypl.org/scm/24832#overview Tayari Jones, ...
Feb 07, 2021•29 min
Bande à part is three years old! We posted our very first episode in January 2018, listen again to celebrate our very first conversation. Hear us discuss Unzipped, Douglas Keeve’s 1995 documentary about the truly wonderful Isaac Mizrahi, and Beatrice’s foray into learning the art of visible mending. See links below. The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Gallina: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989 Emily Spivack, Worn Stories: http://wornstories.co...
Jan 31, 2021•23 min
We unexpectedly become fascinated with clowns and their make-up, including Joseph Grimaldi. See links below. Leichner Kosmetik: https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/companies/leichner.php Dave Fagundes and Aaron Perzanowski, The fascinating reason why clowns paint their faces on eggs, BBC Future (6 December 2017): https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20171206-the-fascinating-reason-why-clowns-paint-their-faces-on-eggs Costume worn by Joseph Grimaldi (1800-1823), Museum of London: https://collections.m...
Jan 24, 2021•25 min
We talk about Josephine Baker’s performance in the 1935 film ‘Princesse Tam-Tam’ and the Steve McQueen’s 2020 TV series ‘Small Axe’, particularly the wonderful ‘Lovers Rock’ episode. See links below. Alan Parker (director), Kristi Zea (costume design), Fame (1980): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0080716/ Christopher Gore (creator), Nanrose Buchman, Marilyn Matthews and Ellen Mirojnick (costume designers on different episodes), Fame (1982-1987): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0083412/ Well, fame cost...
Jan 17, 2021•28 min
We discuss Julien Duvivier’s marvellous 1930 film ‘Au Bonheur des Dames’ based on Émile Zola’s eponymous novel. See links below. Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/ Au Bonheur des Dames on Accroche Note: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA5EqTkz84I Émile Zola, Au Bonheur des Dames (The Ladies’ Delight) (first published 1883): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/35360/au-bonheur-des-dames--the-ladies...
Dec 13, 2020•23 min
We discuss Gero von Boehm’s documentary ‘Helmut Newton: The Bad & the Beautiful’ (2020) and our own reactions to Newton’s controversial photographs. See links below. Gero von Boehm (director), Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10370644/ Mila Ganeva, ‘Fashion Photography and Women’s Modernity in Weimar Germany: The Case of Yva’, NWSA Journal, Vol. 15, No. 3, Gender and Modernism between the Wars, 1918-1939 (Autumn 2003): https://www.jstor.org/stable...
Nov 29, 2020•28 min
We talk about John Lewis Curthoys' 1941 film ‘Border Weave’, produced by the British Council about the production of woollen textiles in the Scottish Borders, but also about empire, national identity and tradition versus modernity. See links below. Merel on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mereltreasures MoMu Antwerp: https://www.momu.be/en/ British Council Film Archive: https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive John Lewis Curthoys (director), Border Weave (1941): https://film.bri...
Nov 22, 2020•28 min
We talk about the fascinating exhibition ‘Michael Clark: Cosmic Dancer’ at the Barbican Art Gallery, London. See links below. Michael Clark: Cosmic Dancer, Barbican Art Gallery, London (7 October 2020-3 January 2021): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2020/event/michael-clark-cosmic-dancer Sarah Crompton, Cosmic Dancer (2020): https://sites.barbican.org.uk/introducingmichaelclark/ Charles Atlas (director), Hail the New Puritan (1986): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0410057/ and http://www.eai.o...
Nov 15, 2020•26 min
We talk about a conversation organised by Autograph and bimi, the Birkbeck Institute for the Moving Image, between Karen Alexander and Terri Simone Francis about her forthcoming book on Josephine Baker. See links below. Maurice Merleau-Ponty, Phenomenology of Perception (Routledge , first published 1945): https://www.routledge.com/Phenomenology-of-Perception/Merleau-Ponty/p/book/9780415834339 bimi, Birkbeck Institute for the Moving Image blog: http://blogs.bbk.ac.uk/bimi/about/ Autograph: Explor...
Nov 01, 2020•26 min
We discuss Pan & the Dream magazine’s new ghostly issue and wonder about the significance of hands in understanding portraits. See links below. Dub London: Bassline of a City, Museum of London (to 31 January 2020): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/dub-london Jilke Golbach, Dub Reggae Icons of London, Museum of London (29 July 2020): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/dub-reggae-icons-london Pan & the Dream: https://www.panandthedream.com/ Rebec...
Oct 25, 2020•22 min
We discuss the V&A’s ‘Kimono: From Kyoto to Catwalk’ exhibition and the varied meanings of this fascinating garment. See links below. Collina Strada: https://collinastrada.com/ Ian Kelly, Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Man of Style (2006): https://www.hodder.co.uk/titles/ian-kelly/beau-brummell/9780340836996/ Duro Olowu: https://www.duroolowu.com/ Arles – Les Rencontres de la Photographie: https://www.rencontres-arles.com/en Julien Faure: https://www.instagram.com/julienfaure1864/ Les choses de...
Oct 18, 2020•38 min
We discuss the Wide Awakes - their origins as an Abolitionist movement supporting Lincoln’s 1860 election campaign, and their revival in 2020 as a cape-clad artist network that believes in “joy as resistance “. See links below. Ruth Barnes, Joanne B. Eicher, Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning (first published in 1992): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/dress-and-gender-9780854968657/ Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, V&A, London (to 25 October 2020): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono-kyoto-to-c...
Oct 11, 2020•28 min
We discuss Rihanna’s approach to lingerie and the amazing choreography and body positivity on display at the Savage x Fenty vol. 2 show. See links below. Gucci’s Rock Star Live campaign: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/stories/advertising-campaign/article/fall-winter-2020-gucci-tailoring-shoppable Biggy Pop: https://www.instagram.com/biggypop/ Britta Lokting, ‘The Pied Piper of Parrots’, New York Times (17 January 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/01/17/nyregion/pet-parrot-trainer.html Savag...
Oct 04, 2020•22 min
We talk about the preview event of the online conference Fashion at the Periphery organised by the Chicago Fashion Lyceum where Paul & Kayla Owen and Amanda Harth talked about streetwear in Liverpool and Chicago, respectively. See links below. Otto Preminger (director), Hope Bryce and May Walding (costume), Bonjour Tristesse (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051429/ Chicago Fashion Lyceum: https://chicagofashionlyceum.com/ Fashion at the Periphery 2020: https://chicagofashionlyceum.com/s...
Sep 27, 2020•28 min
We talk about two pioneering women: the first female filmmaker Alice Guy-Blaché and the writer, broadcaster, collector, costume designer, dress historian and curator Doris Langley Moore. See links below. Pamela B. Green (director), Be Natural: The Untold Story of Alice Guy-Blaché (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3146022/ Marquise Lepage (director), Le Jardin oublié: La vie et l’oeuvre d’Alice Guy Blaché (1996): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0113692/ and https://youtu.be/zli0mysaUeU René Boca,...
Sep 20, 2020•31 min
Sparked off by a 1975 book about the dress collection then at Castle Howard, we talk about dressing up in historic clothes and the difficulties with trying to recreate the past. See links below. Present & Correct, Desk trolley: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/products/oak-desk-trolley Naruhito (photographer), Costume at Castle Howard (Castle Howard Estate, 1975): https://www.worldcat.org/title/costume-at-castle-howard/oclc/2543171/editions Castle Howard, Sale, Sotheby’s (7 October 2003): h...
Sep 12, 2020•29 min
