We talk about transitioning into autumn - which inspired some exciting new purchases - as well as the Netflix series Greenleaf, particularly Lady May’s wardrobe, and the HBO series Lovecraft Country and its visual references. See links below. Colourful Standard: https://colorfulstandard.co.uk/ AS Colour (the shop in Redchurch Street): https://ascolour.co.uk/ Craig Wright (creator), Johnetta Boone (costume design), Greenleaf (2016-20): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4971144/ Michael Patrick Jann (d...
Sep 06, 2020•30 min
We talk about two films from the early 1930s: Bu Wancang’s Love & Duty and Oscar Micheaux’s Veiled Aristocrats. See links below. Yumo Archive: https://www.instagram.com/yumo.archive/ Bu Wancang (director), Love and Duty (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0192239/ Love & Duty (1931) on bilibili: https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1aE411V7Bh/?spm_id_from=333.788.videocard.0 Stephanie Horose (Hua Luochen), La symphonie des ombres chinoises (Paris: Editions Madeleine 1932) Irene Eber and Joa...
Jul 26, 2020•35 min
We talk about the fabulous catalogue and wonderful website accompanying the ‘Willi Smith: Street Couture’ exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York. See links below. Lou Stoppard, ‘The Phantom Handbag’, New York Times (16 July 2020): https://www.nytimes.com/2020/07/15/style/coronavirus-handbags.html Dior Autumn-Winter 2020-2021 Haute Couture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxBFwqRbI8c Simone Vertua, ‘Show-in-a-box: Loewe celebrates the creative process’, L’Officiel ...
Jul 19, 2020•29 min
We talk about Leigh Wannell’s film The Invisible Man and its possible parallels to what is happening in the world right now. See links below. Leigh Wannell (director), Adam Johansen, Damien Martin, Emily Seresin (costume design), The Invisible Man (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1051906/ and https://www.universalpictures.com/movies/the-invisible-man Michael Powell director), Polly Peck (dresses), Dickie Richardson (wardrobe), John Tullis of Horrockses (dress), Peeping Tom (1960): https://ww...
Jul 07, 2020•22 min
We reflect on Rebecca’s MA Documenting Fashion students’ brilliant work this year and discuss the exciting virtual exhibitions ‘Jalebi’ by Ahluwalia and Laurence Ellis, and ‘"My Heart will always be in Brixton": Olive Morris’ by Linett Kamala with the Black Cultural Archives on Google Arts and Culture. See links below. Courtauld Institute of Art, MA History of Art Special Option: Documenting Fashion: Modernity, Films and Image in America and Europe, 1920-1960: https://courtauld.ac.uk/study/postg...
Jul 05, 2020•23 min
Armando Iannucci (director), Suzie Harman, Robert Worley (costume designers), The Personal History of David Copperfield (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6439020/ George Cukor (director), Dolly Tree (costume & wardrobe), David Copperfield (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026266/ Leigh Singer, ‘“The story is the least interesting part”: Armando Iannucci on adapting David Copperfield’, Sight & Sound magazine (21 January 2020): https://www.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/sight-sound-magazin...
Jun 28, 2020•23 min
Rebecca is telling Beatrice about an online event she attended: a conversation with photographer and historian Jamel Shabazz, organised by Nights Global:. See links below. Nights Global: https://nightsglobal.com/ and @nightsglobal Bisoye Babalola: @bisoyebabalola Jamel Shabazz: http://jamelshabazz.com/index.html and @jamelshabazz Panel Members: @dupremethegod (@blackcotten_), @youngparis, Lamel Logan, Pamela Badila and Joe Cooper Jamel Shabazz, Ernie Paniccioli, Back in the Days: Photographs by ...
Jun 21, 2020•27 min
We talk about two documentaries about the Black Panther Party shot in 1968 by Agnès Varda: Black Panthers and Huey. See links below. Agnès Varda (director), Black Panthers (1968): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0209942/ Currently (June 2020) available to watch here: https://www.troiscouleurs.fr/le-festival-a-la-maison/court-metrage-black-panthers-dagnes-varda-a-voir-sur-mk2-curiosity/ Agnès Varda (director), Huey (1968): https://www.facebook.com/political.film/videos/1617020975008840/ Agnès Varda ...
Jun 13, 2020•31 min
We talk about Virigina Woolf’s 1924 short story ‘The New Dress’ and Lisa Cohen’s article about Woolf’s “frock consciousness”. See links below. https://www.instagram.com/roisinmurphyofficial/ https://bonhomme.fr/# The New Dress, Excerpt from Viriginia Woolf’s 1927 [sic] short story, by Vestoj Editors: http://vestoj.com/the-new-dress/ The New Dress read by Carolyn Pickles, BBC (21 June 2019): https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p07d4lyy Lisa Cohen, ‘”Frock Consciousness”: Virginia Woolf, the open sec...
May 24, 2020•26 min
We talk about the amazing colours, the light, clothes and make-up in Powell and Pressburger’s 1948 film The Red Shoes. See links below. Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger (directors), Hein Heckroth (costume design), The Red Shoes (1948): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040725/ Wardrobe and dresses of Ludmilla Tchérina: Dorothy Edwards Additional dresses for Ludmilla Tchérina: Carven Dresses for Moira Shearer: Jacques Fath and Mattli Make-up artists: George Blackler, Eric Carter, Ernest Gasser M...
May 17, 2020•31 min
We talk about the books we have been reading (good and bad) and Fashion Interpretations, the AHRC-funded networking project Rebecca runs with Judith Clark, which focuses ‘on the ways modern and contemporary fashion is continually reinterpreted through varied mediums’. See links below. Present & Correct: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/ Michael Arlen, The Green Hat (1924): https://www.capuchin-classics.co.uk/capuchin/site/product_rpt.asp?Catid=235 Michael Arlen, May Fair (1925) Hallie Ruben...
May 10, 2020•27 min
We discuss the list Love Magazine asked Rebecca to make of 10 lesser known designers who have helped to shape fashion. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, '10 Lesser-Known Fashion Designers Who Have Shaped The Industry', Love (5 May 2020): https://www.thelovemagazine.co.uk/article/10-lesser-known-fashion-designers-who-have-shaped-the-industry Callot Soeurs: Jessamyn Hatcher and Pari Dukovic, 'Twenty-One Dresses', The New Yorker (23 March 2015): https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/03/23/twenty-o...
May 03, 2020•26 min
We talk about the thoughtful documentary about Martin Margiela and our admiration for his wonderful work. See links below. Reiner Holzemer (director), Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11284244/ and https://www.martinmargielafilm.co.uk/ Margiela, the Hermès Years, Momu, Antwerp (31 March 2017 – 27 August 2017): https://www.momu.be/en/exhibitions/new-entry-2 MARGIELA / GALLIERA, 1989-2009, Palais Galliera (3 March – 15 July 2018): http://www.palaisgalliera.par...
Apr 26, 2020•25 min
We talk about the clothes of our favourite characters from the fabulous Peter Bogdanovich film What’s Up, Doc? See links below. Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume designer), What’s Up, Doc? (1972): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0069495/ Aaron Hunter, Polly Platt: Authorship by Design (2018): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsXW2H3_wIo Adam Hulin (director), By Bogdanovich, part 1 (2011): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jw2FMVsZdTA Howard Hawks (director), Howard Gre...
Apr 05, 2020•29 min
We discuss our favourite designers, wondering what criteria we should use to decide on our favourite designers ... See links below. Hans Holbein, Christina of Denmark, Duchess of Milan (National Gallery, London, 1538): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-holbein-the-younger-christina-of-denmark-duchess-of-milan Witt Library: https://courtauld.ac.uk/study/resources/image-libraries/witt-library Headdress Frames, Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/searc...
Mar 29, 2020•27 min
We talk about the incredible 1915-16 crime serial Les Vampires and its compelling star Musidora AKA Irma Vep ... See links below. Louis Feuillade, Les Vampires (1915-16): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0006206/ Les Vampires on archive.org: https://tinyurl.com/rylbufl Cinémathèque Française, Musidora sur le web (3 December 2019): https://www.cinematheque.fr/article/1492.html Musidora talks to journalist Jean Thévenoz in 1948: https://www.rts.ch/archives/radio/divers/emission-sans-nom/4523749-musido...
Mar 22, 2020•29 min
We talk about the TV programmes we currently find solace in - which in our case means Cheer and The Real Housewives – and what they tell us about ourselves, fashion and beauty. See links below. Greg Whiteley (director), Cheer (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11426660/ Scott Dunlop (creator), The Real Housewives of Atlanta (2008-): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1252370/
Mar 15, 2020•26 min
We talk about the fabulous Louise Weber, better known as La Goulue, a French Cancan dancer whose photos feature in the Musée de Montmartre in Paris. See links below. Musée de Montmartre: https://museedemontmartre.fr/ Jean Renoir (director), Rosine Delamare (costume design), French Cancan (1955): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0046998/ La Goulue retrouve Montmartre, 12/13 Paris Ile de France (16 March 1992): https://www.ina.fr/video/PAC02021108/la-goulue-retrouve-montmartre-video.html Portrait - La...
Mar 08, 2020•27 min
We discuss Lisa Immordino Vreeland’s beautifully conceived and edited documentary about Cecil Beaton. See links below. Courtauld Institute of Art, Research Forum Events (2020): https://courtauld.ac.uk/research/research-forum/events Cecil Beaton, Designs for the ballet Apparitions (1936): https://tinyurl.com/t96zg5r Carte de visite of Kitty Lord: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/717253.html Kitty Lord’s pink boots: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/431...
Mar 02, 2020•23 min
We discuss Basil Dearden’s fascinating 1959 film Sapphire - which shows the intricacies of identity in post war London. See links below. Basil Dearden (director), Julie Harris (costume design), Sapphire (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053242/ Sapphire on Retrospective’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HYYhQwYZEE Sapphire on Reelstreets: https://www.reelstreets.com/films/sapphire/ Josephine Botting, ‘Remembering Julie Harries: costume designer for Bond and Hitchcock’, BFI ...
Mar 01, 2020•38 min
We discuss the exhibition ‘An English Lady’s wardrobe’ at Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool which features a selection from a very large collection of clothes owned by one woman in the first half of the 20th century. See links below. Bassano Studio, Woman modelling bed jacket (1934): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/520641.html An English lady’s wardrobe, Walker Art Gallery, National Museums Liverpool (25 October 2019 – 1 March 2020): https://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/what...
Feb 23, 2020•31 min
We discuss two 1940s films - The Gentle Sex (1943) and It Always Rains on Sunday (1947) - and the fascinating ways they portray wartime and post-war femininities. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion in Ruins: Photography, Luxury and Dereliction in 1940s London’, Fashion Theory, Vol. 21, Issue 4 (2007): https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1254426 Claire McCardell, Popover Dress (1942): https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/C.I.45.71.2ab/ Vera Maxwell, Jumpsuit (1945): https://www.me...
Feb 09, 2020•28 min
We discuss Jean Paul Gaultier’s incredible final show and the wonders of looking at couture clothes in museum storerooms. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, Fashion: A Very Short Introduction (OUP 2009): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/fashion-a-very-short-introduction-9780199547906 and https://e.jd.com/30536485.html Gaultier Paris – Spring-Summer 2020 Fashion Show: https://www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/en-gb/jpglive/ and https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-couture/jean-paul-gaultie...
Jan 25, 2020•30 min
We discuss Frédéric Tscheng’s 2019 documentary Halston and consider the American designer’s incredible work. See links below. Fréderic Tcheng (director), Halston (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9358192/ Halston on Dogwoof: https://dogwoof.com/halston Jack Hazan (director), A Bigger Splash (1973): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0071219/ (contains Ossie Clark show footage) Dwight Hemion/Joe Layton (directors): My name is Barbra, TV Special (1965): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0243435/ Elaine Gr...
Jan 19, 2020•29 min
We discuss the Dora Maar exhibition at Tate Modern, and especially enjoy seeing her fascinating fashion and street photography. ‘Dora Maar’, Tate Modern, London (to 15 March 2020): https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/dora-maar ‘Modern Couples: Art, Intimacy and the Avant-garde’, Barbican Art Gallery, London (10 October 2018 – 27 January 2019): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2018/event/modern-couples-art-intimacy-and-the-avant-garde Brian Dillon, ‘The Voraciousness and O...
Jan 12, 2020•32 min
We revisit our favourite game - this time choosing the fashion photographs we would like to inhabit. See links below. Nick Knight: https://www.nickknight.com/ Edward Steichen, Marion Morehouse, 1927: https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/model-marion-morehouse-standing-with-both-hands-on-her-hips-news-photo/507047690 Helmut Newton, Yves Saint-Laurent, Rue Aubriot, French Vogue, Paris (1975): https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/helmut-newton-19202004-yves-st-laurent-rue-6225247-deta...
Dec 21, 2019•41 min
We discuss Mae West - her transgressive and contradictory negotiations of gender, sexuality, class and ethnicity, her body image and her incredible film costumes and extravagant jewels. See links below. Lowell Sherman (director), Edith Head (costume designer, uncredited), ‘She done him wrong’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024548/ Wes Ruggles (director), Travis Banton (costume designer), ‘I’m No Angel’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024166/fullcredits Leo McCarey (director), Travis...
Dec 08, 2019•33 min
We discuss Lina Iris Viktor’s mesmerising exhibition at Autograph and the 1981 documentary ‘Edith Head: Portrait of a Hollywood Costume Designer’. See links below. Lina Iris Viktor, ‘Some are born to endless night – dark matter’, Autograph (13 September 2019 – 25 January 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/some-are-born-to-endless-night-dark-matter Lina Iris Viktor’s website: https://www.linaviktor.com/ Sarah Cascone, ‘Gustav Klimt’s Adele Bloch-Bauer Paintings to Be Reunited at Neue Gal...
Dec 01, 2019•26 min
We discuss the diverse and fascinating exhibits on display in ‘The Art of Innovation: From Enlightenment to Dark Matter’ at the Science Museum in London. See links below. ‘African Textiles from the Karun Thakar Collection’, Brunei Gallery, SOAS (11 October 2019 – 14 December 2019): https://www.soas.ac.uk/gallery/african-textiles/ ‘The Art of Innovation: From Enlightenment to Dark Matter’, Science Museum (25 September 2019 – 26 January 2020): https://www.sciencemuseum.org.uk/see-and-do/art-innova...
Nov 24, 2019•30 min
We talk about the display The Clash: London Calling which just opened at the Museum of London and the National Army Museum’s exhibition of Abram Games’ wartime posters. See links below. The Clash: London Calling, Museum of London (15 November 2019 – 19 April 2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/london-calling-40-years-clash Designed by: http://www.calumstorrie.com/ London Calling: 1979 panel discussion (22 November 2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/m...
Nov 17, 2019•29 min
