We talk about clothes worn by Isabelle Huppert and Chloë Grace Moretz in the film Greta and a slightly puzzling 1920s dress in the Museum of London’s collection. See links below. Neil Jordan (director), Joan Bergin (costume design), Greta (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2639336/ Nick Chen, Greta is a film about loneliness, and using designer bags to make friends, Dazed, 16 April 2019: https://www.dazeddigital.com/film-tv/article/44019/1/greta-film-neil-jordan-chloe-grace-moretz-isabelle-hup...
Nov 10, 2019•34 min
We discuss punk girls in the 1982 film Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains and Bianca Saunders wonderful exhibition Nearness in Brixton, London. See links below. Lou Adler (director), Nancy Dowd (writer), Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains (1982): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0082639/ Trailer for Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains (1982): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06kCwPpyjCk Caroline Coon, The film ‘Ladies and Gentlemen, the Fabulous Stains!’ was originally ‘All ...
Nov 03, 2019•38 min
We wonder whether there is a trend for cocooning clothes to protect us from the anxieties of contemporary politics ... and discuss the V&A’s Tim Walker exhibition ... See links below. Best in Show: Rebecca Arnold, Show Studio (2 June 2019): https://www.showstudio.com/projects/best_in_show/best-show-rebecca-arnold Definition of froufrou: https://www.larousse.fr/dictionnaires/francais/froufrou/35436 Carola Bauckholt, Hirn & Ei (2010/11), performed at Detmolder Sommertheater (Juni 2014): ht...
Oct 27, 2019•27 min
We discuss the new book Avedon Advertising - which includes an essay by Rebecca on Richard Avedon’s incredible work. See links below. Richard Avedon, The Richard Avedon Foundation, Laura Avedon, James Martin, Rebecca Arnold, Avedon Advertising (Abrams 2019): https://www.abramsandchronicle.co.uk/book/9781419733383-avedon-advertising/ The Richard Avedon Foundation: https://www.avedonfoundation.org/ Helen Whitney (director), Richard Avedon: Darkness and Light (1996): https://youtu.be/4XElT1udbFM JU...
Oct 06, 2019•26 min
We talk about Lady Hale’s amazing spider brooch, the joy of seeing Dries van Noten and Christian Lacroix working together and Perry Henzell’s 1972 film The Harder They Come. See links below. Dries Van Noten and Christian Laxroix (SS 2020): https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten Reiner Holzemer (director), Dries (2017): https://www.driesfilm.com/ Perry Henzell (director and co-writer), Trevor Rhone (co-writer), The Harder They Come (1972): https://www.imdb.c...
Sep 29, 2019•25 min
We discuss the wonders of Bonhams jewellery sale and the historical references contained within jewellery design Still Processing podcast: https://www.nytimes.com/column/still-processing-podcast Emily Barber: https://www.instagram.com/gemilybarber/ Bonhams Jewels: https://www.instagram.com/bonhamsjewels/?hl=en London Jewels auction, Bonhams (24 September 2019): https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25315/ Buccellati: http://uk.buccellati.com/en/private-collection London’s Fashion Alphabet, G – Garnet...
Sep 22, 2019•32 min
We discuss the evolution of fashion shows and debate the reason for their continuation. See links below. Pyer Moss: https://pyermoss.com/ Vanessa Friedman, ‘The Rebirth of New York Fashion’, New York Times (12 September 2019): https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/12/style/marc-jacobs-new-york-fashion-week.html Leandra Medine, ‘Why Was NYFW Trendless This Season?’, Manrepeller (9 September 2019): https://www.manrepeller.com/2019/09/nyfw-trends.html Rodarte: http://www.rodarte.net/ John Maybury (direct...
Sep 15, 2019•27 min
We talk about cosmetics between the wars, the traces our garments leave on us and our surroundings as well as the times when clothes fail us. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, ‘The Kodak Ensemble: Fashion, Images and Materiality in 1920s America’, Fashion Theory (15 July 2019): https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2019.1638166 The Vintage Compact Shop, Richard Hudnut (15 April 2017): https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/richard-hudnut-compacts-heritage Tre-Jur Adver...
Sep 08, 2019•25 min
We talk about a recent visit to the Imperial War Museum North, particularly the interplay of architecture and objects. See links below. Imperial War Museum North: https://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-north Daniel Libeskind, IWM Project: https://libeskind.com/work/imperial-war-museum-north/ Peter Jackson, They Shall Not Grow Old, Trailer (2018): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcgceA64aAI Uniforms and insignia on display at IWM: https://tinyurl.com/y5qtg86b Marlene Dietrich’s uniform jacket: https:/...
Aug 31, 2019•28 min
We discuss the wonderful exhibition of Finnish artist Helene Schjerfbeck’s work at the Royal Academy. See links below. Helene Schjerfbeck, Royal Academy of Arts (20 July – 27 October 2019): https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/exhibition/helene-schjerfbeck Helene Schjerfbeck, Schirn Kunsthallle Frankfurt (2 October 2014 – 11 January 2015): http://schirn.de/schjerfbeck/ (good introduction) Tina Berning: https://www.instagram.com/tina_berning and https://tinaberning.de/
Aug 25, 2019•26 min
We discuss the intimate relationship between fashion and interiors, as expressed in couture salon and stores, and how these relate to “backstage” areas where the garments are made. Jess Berry, House of Fashion: Haute Couture and the Modern Interior (Bloomsbury Visual Arts 2018): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/house-of-fashion-9781474283403/ John Pawson’s Jigsaw Store, London (1995-1996): http://www.johnpawson.com/works/jigsaw-store Nigel Coates’ Jigsaw Stores, London (1990): https://nigelcoates.c...
Aug 18, 2019•27 min
190811-P68 Catching Up We catch up on each other’s news - including seaside fashion, Crocs, Manolo Blahnik at the Wallace Collection and The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. Ellie Pithers, ‘Can Christopher Kane Make Crocs Covetable?’, Vogue Online (20 September 2016): https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christopher-kane-crocs-trend Chester Himes, A Rage in Harlem (1957): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/180/180468/a-rage-in-harlem/9780141196442.html An Enquiring Mind: Manolo Blahník at the Wallace Collection, ...
Aug 10, 2019•25 min
Inspired by a recent event at Autograph ABP in London we talk about colourism and film. See links below. Celeste Bell and Zoë Howe, Dayglo!: The Creative Life of Poly Styrene (2019): https://www.waterstones.com/book/dayglo/celeste-bell/zoe-howe/9781785586163 Jordan Mooney and Cathi Unsworth, Defying Gravity: Jordan’s Story (2019): https://www.waterstones.com/book/defying-gravity/cathi-jordan/unsworth/9781785588365 Vivien Goldman, Revenge of the She-Punks: A Feminist Music History from Poly Styre...
Jul 07, 2019•30 min
We talk about the concept of everyday dress following the Everyday Fashion conference in Huddersfield and Leeds. (Apologies for the helicopter noise!) See links below. Everyday Fashion: Extraordinary Stories of Ordinary Clothes (27-18 June 2019): https://research.hud.ac.uk/art-design/events/everyday-fashion-conference/ Alfred Gillet Trust (Heritage Collection of C & C Clark Ltd.): https://alfredgilletttrust.org/ M&S Company Archive: https://marksintime.marksandspencer.com/home Alison Top...
Jun 30, 2019•29 min
We discuss the brilliant new exhibition Get Up, Stand Up Now: Generations of Black Creative Pioneers at Somerset House. See links below. Get Up, Stand Up Now: Generations of Black Creative Pioneers, Somerset House (12 June – 15 September 2019): https://www.somersethouse.org.uk/whats-on/get-up-stand-up-now Zak Ové: http://www.zak-ove.co.uk/ Horace Ové (director), Pressure (1976): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075098/ Horace Ové, The Black Safari (1972): https://www.bfi.org.uk/films-tv-people/4ce2...
Jun 22, 2019•26 min
We discuss the allure of 1930s gangster style, as seen in American and Japanese films. Links are below. Holly Marler’s collection for Liberty London (June 2019): https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/liberty-london-fashion Documenting Fashion Blog: http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ Rich Cohen, The Original Gangster Style, New York Times (10 June 2019): https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/10/fashion/the-original-gangster-style-guy.html Mervyn LeRoy (director), Little Caesar (1931): https://ww...
Jun 16, 2019•25 min
We discuss the fascinating archive of technical menswear at Westminster University. See links below. Westminster Menswear Archive: https://www.mensweararchive.com/ Westminster Menswear Archive database: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/index.php/westminster-menswear-archive Westminster Menswear Archive IG: https://www.instagram.com/menswear_archive/?hl=en Video about the Westminster Menswear Archive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEDoqc2NMgY Westminster Menswear Archive - Item 2016.138 - P...
Jun 02, 2019•28 min
We discuss which painting we would most like to live in ... See links below. Jacques-Louis David, Madame Récamier, née Julie (known as Juliette) Bernard (1777-1849), known as Portrait of Juliette Récamier, Musée du Louvre, Paris (1800): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/madame-recamier François Gérard, Portrait de Juliette Récamier, Musée Carnavalet, Paris (c. 1805): http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/fr/collections/portrait-de-juliette-recamier-1777-1849 Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini Portrait, ...
May 25, 2019•28 min
We discuss Charlie Curran’s beautiful film See Know Evil which documents the life of fashion photographer Davide Sorrenti. See links below. Charlie Curran (director), See Know Evil (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt8755156/ See Know Evil on Charlie Curran’s website: http://www.charliecurran.com/see-know-evil See Know Evil IG: https://www.instagram.com/see_know_evil/ Charlie Curran IG: https://www.instagram.com/myhilism/ Rebecca Arnold, Fashion Desire and Anxiety (I.B. Tauris 2001): https://ww...
May 19, 2019•23 min
We discuss Max Ophüls’ 1952 film Le Plaisir and wonder at the ageing dandy portrayed in the opening section. See links below. Max Ophüls (director), Le Plaisir (1952): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0045034/ Max Ophüls (director), The Mask from Le Plaisir (1952) – with Italian subtitles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoBi1BeT_PQ&t=22s Robin Wood, ‘Le Plaisir: Life is Movement’ (16 September 2008): https://www.criterion.com/current/posts/548-le-plaisir-life-is-movement V.F. Perkins, ‘Le Plais...
May 12, 2019•32 min
We wonder just what cruise and resort wear are ... Some links below. Fashion, Self-Reflexivity and the Question of Inspiration, Conference, History of Dress, Research Forum, The Courtauld Institute of Art (11 May 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-self-reflexivity-and-the-question-of-inspiration Addressing Images with Nadya Wang, The Courtauld Institute (17 May 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/addressing-images-3 Fashion Illustration Masterclass with Martin Welch, The Courtauld Ins...
May 04, 2019•23 min
We discuss the costumes in Pose, it’s influences and the history of Drag Balls. See links below. Jennie Livingston (director), Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/ Jennie Livingston: https://www.jennielivingston.com/ Steven Canals, Brad Falchuk, Ryan Murphy (creators), Pose (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7562112/ Jamel Shabazz: http://www.jamelshabazz.com/ Armet Francis photos at V&A: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/name/francis-armet/AUTH319927/ Berry Gordy (dir...
Apr 28, 2019•29 min
We discuss the ritual of getting dressed with the help of your valet or maid in the early 20th century. See links below. Myself When Young by Iris Capell, printed by D.G. Seldon Printing Limited, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada (not dated) John Singer Sargent, The Countess of Essex, Private Collection (1906): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adele_Capell,_Countess_of_Essex#/media/File:The_Countess_of_Essex,_1906.jpg Henry Poole, Savile Row tailors: https://henrypoole.com/hp/ Le Diable à Paris (1845): htt...
Apr 15, 2019•29 min
We discuss Charles Poulsen’s memoirs of life in early 20th century London and his work in the fur trade. See links below. Charles Poulsen, Scenes from a Stepney youth (1988): https://archive.org/details/scenesfromstepne00poul Charles Hobday, Charles Poulsen (obituary), The Guardian (14 December 2001): https://www.theguardian.com/news/2001/dec/14/guardianobituaries.humanities British Pathé, Fur Coat (1953) – shows nailing: https://www.britishpathe.com/video/fur-coat/query/furrier Lyon’s Corner Ho...
Mar 31, 2019•34 min
We discuss Moses Quiquine's wonderful art that crosses time and space, and his exhibition ‘Voodoo Child: Identity, Spirituality & Fashion’ at The Africa Centre in London. See links below. Moses Quiquine: ‘Voodoo Child’, The Africa Centre, London (22/03/2019 –17/04/2019): https://www.africacentre.org.uk/blog/moses-quiquine-voodoo-child-exhibition/ Moses Quiquine: https://www.instagram.com/mosesquiquine/ Igor Kopytoff, 'The cultural biography of things: Commodization as process', in Arjun Appa...
Mar 24, 2019•27 min
We talk about the work of some of the artists working with textiles who are part of TJ Boulting's current exhibition Subversive Stitch. See links below. UCL, The Survey of London, Boulting & Sons (19 May 2017): https://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/survey-of-london/2017/05/19/boulting-sons/ Subversive Stitch, TJ Boulting (14 February – 23 March 2019): http://www.tjboulting.com/exhibitionspage/509/subversive-stitch Subversive Stitch conversation – Charlotte Edey, Lilah Fowler and Celia Pym (20 March 2019):...
Mar 17, 2019•30 min
We discuss McDermott & McGough’s inspiring Oscar Wilde Temple at Studio Voltaire in Clapham, and its link to Aesthetic Dress. McDermott & McGough, The Oscar Wilde Temple, Studio Voltaire, London (3 October 2018 – 28 April 2019): https://www.studiovoltaire.org/exhibitions/ The Oscar Wilde Temple: https://www.oscarwildetemple.org/ McDermott & McGough: http://www.mcdermottandmcgough.com/ V&A, An Introduction to the Aesthetic Movement (2018): https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/an-introdu...
Mar 10, 2019•25 min
We discuss our love of Molly Goddard and other female designers making clothes that women want to wear now. Molly Goddard: https://mollygoddard.com/ Dress Portrait, Molly Goddard and Sarah Edwards, Chelsea Space (23 January - 1 March 2019): http://www.chelseaspace.org/archive/dress-portrait-info.html Ana Kinsella, How a Dress Can Be More Than a Commodity, Frieze (20 February 2019): https://frieze.com/article/how-dress-can-be-more-commodity Killing Eve, Series 1:2, Costume designer Phoebe de Gaye...
Mar 03, 2019•25 min
We discuss Valerie Steele's recent talk at the London College of Fashion about the current exhibition at and history of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum in New York. See also links below. Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (8 February 2019 – 20 April 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibitions/exhibitionism.php Valerie Steele and Colleen Hill (eds): Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (2019): http://www.skira.net/en/books/exhibitionism Exhibiting Fashion Symposi...
Feb 24, 2019•22 min
We discuss the beautiful exhibition at Alexander McQueen’s Old Bond Street store that shows the research and design process for the current collection. See links below. Unlocking Stories (2019): https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/unlocking-stories/ Hand & Lock: https://handembroidery.com/ Maison Lesage: http://www.lesage-paris.com/ Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-...
Feb 17, 2019•28 min
