We discuss the new exhibition at the Fashion Space Gallery at London College of Fashion, Mundo Latinx, curated by White Line Projects. See links below. Fashion Space Gallery, London College of Fashion, Mundo Latinx (8 Feb to 5 May 2019): http://www.fashionspacegallery.com/exhibition/mundo-latinx/ White Line Projects: http://www.whitelineprojects.com/ Lucia Cuba (official website): http://www.luciacuba.com/ Ada Alti, ‘Articulo 6 Project by Lucia Cuba’ Trendland (10/03/2013): https://trendland.com...
Feb 10, 2019•26 min
We wonder about the allure of pleats, the history of pleating, and our favourite designer examples of pleats. See links below. Vogue, Sacai, Resort 2019: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/sacai/slideshow/collection#34 Lassner Plissee, History of Plissee (in German): http://lassner-plissee.de/Geschichte/geschichte.html Business of Fashion, 'Inside Chanel's Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater' (2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc Refinery29, 'How a Dior Dress is Made' (2015): ...
Feb 03, 2019•27 min
We discuss the recent sale of Catherine Deneuve’s Yves Saint Laurent clothes, and wonder about the values and meanings attached to vintage fashions. See links below ... Catherine Deneuve et Yves Saint-Laurent [sic], Christie's, Sale 17514, 24 January 2019, results: https://www.christies.com/catherine-deneuve-et-yves-28219.aspx Jess Cartner-Morley, 'Catherine Deneuve is selling her Yves Saint Laurent wardrobe - but that look will never go away', The Guardian (15 January 2019): https://www.theguar...
Jan 27, 2019•32 min
We discuss the current Yves Saint Laurent exhibition in Paris and the representation of Eastern cultures in fashion, and consider the extravagant vision of Busby Berkeley films from the 1930s. See links below ... Les Nadar, une légende photographique, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris (16 October 2018 - 3 February 2019): http://www.bnf.fr/m/fr/m_actualites/m_anx_expos/f.nadar_legende_photographique.html L'Asie rêvée d'Yves Saint Laurent, Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (2 October 2018 - 27...
Jan 20, 2019•38 min
We discuss the delights and dilemmas of layers, and question why some designers are better remembered than others. See information and links below. Hardy Amies, Just So Far (Collins 1954) Hardy Amies, ABC of Men’s Fashion (V&A 2008, first published in 1964): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/abc-of-men-s-fashion-94479.html Hardy Amies, Still Here: An Autobiography (Weidenfeld and Nicolson 1984) Hardy Amies, The Englishman’s Suit (Quartet Books 2013, first published in 1994): https://www.quartetbook...
Dec 16, 2018•26 min
We discuss the power of costume in Powell & Pressburger’s 1947 film Black Narcissus and the amazing silent film actress Asta Nielsen. Michael Powell, Emeric Pressburger (directors), Black Narcissus (1947): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0039192/ Reviews of Black Narcissus: http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/47_BN/index.html Asta Nielsen, Die schweigende Muse (Wilhelm Heyne Verlag, 1979, first published 1945/46) Asta Nielsen's page on Women Film Pioneers Project: https://wfpp.cdrs.columb...
Dec 09, 2018•26 min
We discuss the wonderful Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery, and wonder about the ethics of using people’s fashion choices for targeting political propaganda. See links below. Atelier E.B: Passer-by at Serpentine Gallery (2018-19): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/exhibitions-events/atelier-eb-passer Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition guide (2018): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/files/downloads/1636.serp_atelier_e.b_guide_aw_no_crops.pdf Eric Newton, 'First surrea...
Dec 02, 2018•40 min
We talk about Jessie Redmon Fauset's 1928 novel Plum Bun and the affinities between the sense of taste and fashion and beauty. See links below. Jessie Redmon Fauset, Plum Bun (1928): http://www.beacon.org/Plum-Bun-P136.aspx Jacquelyn Y. Mclendon, The Politics of Color in the Fiction of Jessie Fauset and Nella Larsen (1995): https://www.upress.virginia.edu/title/2892 Smithsonian, The Scurlocks and Black Washington (2009): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/videos/category/history/the-scurlocks-and-bl...
Nov 25, 2018•30 min
We discuss artist Ellen Nolan’s fascinating archive of her great aunt Nita Harvey’s stage and film career. See links below. Nita Harvey Archive page on Ellen Nolan's website: http://www.ellennolan.com/Art/nita/nita.html Ellen Nolan's blog which contains many Nita Harvey images: http://www.ellennolan.com/wp/ 'A Beautiful Dream That Went for a Walk', Voice (2 June 1934): https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/218834069 Nita Harvey on IMDb: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0367663/ You Must Remember...
Nov 10, 2018•27 min
We discuss the ways fashion and autobiography intersect - prompted by a visit to see clothes in the Museum of London archive. See links below. Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye (eds), London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html (article on couture clients features Lady Fox and Lady Delamere) Photos of Myra Alice (née Newton), Lady Fox at NPG: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp91931/myra-alice-nee-...
Nov 04, 2018•30 min
We discuss the ways clothes feel versus the way they look, and Autograph’s brilliant Omar Victor Diop exhibition. See links below. Fanshawe mantua at Museum of London (1753): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/85096.html Lynn Sorge-English, Stays and Body Image in London: The Staymaking Trade, 1680-1810 (2011): https://www.routledge.com/Stays-and-Body-Image-in-London-The-Staymaking-Trade-16801810/Sorge-English/p/book/9781138661424 Daniel Miller, Mukulika Banerjee, The Sari (...
Oct 28, 2018•36 min
We discuss the mesmerising exhibition of Frances Upritchard’s work at the Barbican, and enjoy the multi-layered references in Simon Grennan’s book Drawing in Drag by Marie Duval. See links below. Francis Upritchard: Wetwang Slack (2018): http://sites.barbican.org.uk/wetwangslack/ Francis Upritchard at Kate Macgarry: http://www.katemacgarry.com/artists/francis-upritchard/ Hammer Projects: Francis Upritchard (2014-2015): https://hammer.ucla.edu/exhibitions/2014/hammer-projects-francis-upritchard/ ...
Oct 21, 2018•31 min
We discuss two exhibitions that opened in London this week: Anni Albers at Tate Modern and Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs at the Fashion & Textile Museum. See links below. Anni Albers, Tate Modern, London: https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/anni-albers Stiftelsen Almgrens Sidenväveri & Museum, Stockholm: http://www.kasiden.se/english-summary/ Paridise Mill and The Silk Museum, Macclesfield: https://macclesfieldmuseums.co.uk/ Night & Day: 1930s Fas...
Oct 14, 2018•28 min
We consider the wonders of menswear prompted by Murnau's 1921 film Schloss Vogelöd and discuss the V&A Museum’s current Frida Kahlo exhibition. See links below. Fritz Murnau (director), Schloss Vogelöd (1921): https://www.murnau-stiftung.de/movie/812 Antony Beevor, The Mystery of Olga Chekhova (2005): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/54988/the-mystery-of-olga-chekhova/9780141017648.html Roberta S. Kremer (ed), Broken Threads: The Destruction of the Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austr...
Oct 07, 2018•39 min
We devise the Bande à part Manifesto of acceptable approaches to fashion design based on our observations of the current collections. See links below. Chromat Spring 2019 RTW on Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/chromat#collection Pyer Moss: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/pyer-moss#collection Derrick Adams: http://www.derrickadams.com/ Matty Bovan: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/matty-bovan#co...
Sep 30, 2018•29 min
We discuss the hidden diversity of interwar London and the wonders of Art Smith’s Modernist jewellery. See also links below. Evelyn Waugh, Vile Bodies (1930): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/57050/vile-bodies/9780141182872.html Marc Matera, Black London: The Imperial Metropolis and Decolonization in the Twentieth Century (2015): https://www.ucpress.edu/book/9780520284302/black-london Black Chronicles (NPG/ABP project 2016): https://www.npg.org.uk/whatson/blackchronicles/explore/autograph-abp Chr...
Sep 23, 2018•34 min
We discuss the Kevyn Aucoin documentary and various makeup styles we’d like to try. Plus, why are there so many documentaries now? Links to some of what we talk about below. Lori Kaye, Kevyn Aucoin: Beauty & the Beast in Me (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6972670/ Lottie Winter on Kevyn Aucoin (2017): https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/who-is-kevyn-aucoin-everything-you-need-to-know Way Bandy: https://www.nytimes.com/1986/08/15/obituaries/way-bandy-makeup-artist-and-best-selling-writer-die...
Sep 16, 2018•20 min
We talk about the appeal of buying clothes from catalogues. See links below. Marshall & Snelgrove catalogue, 'The Visits of Veronica' (1929): http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/mol-77-150-39 Kays catalogues: https://www.worc.ac.uk/discover/world-of-kays-website-charts-20th-century-fashions%20.html
Aug 25, 2018•26 min
We discuss the significance of costume in Otto Preminger’s film Bonjour Tristesse (1958). See also links below. François Sagan, Bonjour Tristesse (1954): http://www.francoisesagan.fr/4.aspx Otto Preminger, Bonjour Tristesse (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051429/ Saul Bass title sequence: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VyfxT7CzB94 Photos by Lionel Kazan taken during the filming: https://en.vogue.fr/fashion-culture/fashion-books/diaporama/lionel-kazan-remembers-the-filming-of-bonjour-tristes...
Aug 18, 2018•29 min
We discuss department stores we have known and loved. Kaufhaus Weyrauch: https://www.kaufhaus-weyrauch.de/historie/ Morleys Brixton Department Store: https://www.morleysbrixton.co.uk/about-morleys/ Bon Marché Department Store Brixton: https://thedepartmentstore.com/history/ Rebecca Arnold, The American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York (2008): https://tinyurl.com/y83uz547 Emile Zola, The Ladies' Paradise (1883): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/the-ladies-...
Aug 12, 2018•35 min
We wonder what natural makeup is, and marvel at Nick Knight’s photographs of Rihanna. Blog post by cosmeticsandskin about Pan-Cake Make-Up: https://cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/cake.php Vogue UK September 2018 Issue Cover: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/rihanna-september-cover-british-vogue-2018 Madame Yevonde: http://www.madameyevonde.com/ Azuma Makoto: http://azumamakoto.com/ Azuma Makoto making iced flowers for Dries van Noten (2015): https://youtu.be/4y8h5bh30-o Victor Stiebel's Overalls for Co...
Aug 05, 2018•31 min
We discuss the recent Vivienne Westwood film and ponder what we want from fashion documentaries. Lorna Tucker, Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4378628/ Gillian Greenwood, Vivienne Westwood (1990, episode of The South Bank Show): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1574390/ Douglas Keeve, Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/
Jul 29, 2018•32 min
We discuss the film Smithereens and early 1980s fashion, and what we value in Modern Jewellery. Susan Seidelman (director), Smithereens (1982): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0084698/fullcredits Interview with Susan Berman (1982): https://player.vimeo.com/video/277148700 Maripol: http://www.maripol.com/who-i-am Maribeth Keane & Jessica Lewis on Modernist Jewellery (2009): https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/an-interview-with-modernist-studio-jewelry-collector-marbeth-schon/
Jul 21, 2018•29 min
We discuss the brilliant Antonio Lopez documentary and ponder on the relationship between 1970s fashion as seen in magazines versus what was worn on the street. Fendi campaign (2018): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a22102910/north-west-kim-kardashian-fendi-campaign/ Matti Suuronen, Futuro House (1968): http://www.thefuturohouse.com/ James Crump, Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco (2018): http://sexfashiondisco.com/ Marguerite Duras, Baxter, Vera Baxter (1977): htt...
Jul 15, 2018•32 min
We talk about the Archaeology of Fashion Film conference and Queer Eye. Archaeology of Fashion Film: http://archfashfilm.arts.ac.uk/ Stella Scott, The Performers (2017): https://www.stellascott.net/the-performers Isaac Lock, Black (2018): http://somesuch.co/directors/isaac-lock/reel/black/ Vitoria de Mello Franco, Divinas (2018): https://www.nowness.com/story/divinas-victoria-de-mello-franco Queer Eye (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7259746/
Jul 08, 2018•35 min
We discuss holiday packing and capsule wardrobes, and just what makes certain people’s style so visually compelling. The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Galina: https://itunes.apple.com/gb/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989 Issue 1 of Fashion Studies: https://www.fashionstudies.ca/issue-1 Alison Matthews David, Fashion Victims (2015): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-victims-9781472577740/
Jul 01, 2018•28 min
We discuss the wonders of pre-code film Finishing School, and think about Edie Beale’s fashion sense as seen in the new film That Summer. George Nichols Jr. & Wanda Tuchock (directors), Finishing School (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025117/ Women Film Pioneers: https://wfpp.cdrs.columbia.edu/pioneer/ccp-wanda-tuchock/ Göran Olsson (director), That Summer (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7057306/
Jun 24, 2018•30 min
We discuss looking at Antonio and Bouché drawings and the intricacies of cataloguing fashion in the museum. Gray M.C.A: https://www.graymca.com/ Velwyn: http://www.velwyn.com/ Frida Wannerberger: https://www.fridawannerberger.com/ What Do We Want From Fashion Writing And Imagery Now?: https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/what-do-we-want-from-fashion-writing-and-imagery-now
Jun 17, 2018•33 min
We discuss World War I London society fashions as seen in Tatler and The Sketch, and the fashion illustration events at The Courtauld Institute. Photographs of Bertram Park: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person.php?LinkID=mp05646&role=art&displayNo=60 Fashion Illustration Now (15 June 2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-illustration-now Kenneth Paul Block: https://www.societyillustrators.org/kenneth-paul-block Kenneth Paul Block exhibition at mfa Boston (2015-16): ht...
Jun 10, 2018•33 min
We discuss photographs of mock weddings and cross-dressing and the notorious 1973 ‘Battle of Versailles’ fashion show. Under Cover: A Secret History of Cross-Dressers: https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/exhibition/under-cover-secret-history-cross-dressers Sebastien Lifshitz: http://sebastienlifshitz.com/ Bambi (Marie-Pierre Pruvot): https://www.bambi-officiel.com/tout-sur-bambi/ Versailles '73: American Runway Revolution (2013): http://www.versailles73movie.com/ Review of Robin Ghiv...
May 20, 2018•38 min
