We discuss the intricacies of dress as passing and dress as performance. Passing: Fashion in American Cities (2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities Modes pratiques: https://www.modespratiques.fr/special-issue.html Allyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile (2014): http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?isbn=9780674368101 Jennie Livingston, Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/
We discuss the fascination of fancy dress and the wonders of fashion photography up close. Weldon's Fancy Dress Catalogue (1920s): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/536070.html A Dress for Spring (2015): http://blog.museumoflondon.org.uk/dress-spring/ Screen Archive South East - Fashion: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/ V&A Prints & Drawings Study Room: https://www.vam.ac.uk/info/study-rooms#prints-drawings-study-room Martin Munka...
We discuss interviewing family members (and others) for fashion history, and the wonders of Bonham’s jewellery sales. Exploring 20th Century London website: http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/ 'All about my mother' - article in sisterMag (2012): https://tinyurl.com/y6upplox Instagram account of Bonhams' jewellery department: @bonhamsjewels Instagram account of Emily Barber: @gemilybarber
We discuss fashion’s fascination with nature and related ethical issues, prompted by the new V&A exhibition Fashioned From Nature. V&A exhibition: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/fashioned-from-nature Centre for Sustainable Fashion at LCF: http://sustainable-fashion.com/ Fashion Revolution: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/ Emily Manning on Katharine Hamnett for i-D.vice: https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/3kqjzn/why-fashions-eco-warrior-katharine-hamnett-is-kanyes-main-muse
We discuss exhibitions that show Jil Sander and Azzedine Alaia’s purity of vision. Jil Sander exhibition: http://www.museumangewandtekunst.de/en/museum/exhibitions/jil-sander-present-tense.html Azzedine Alaïa website: http://www.alaia.fr/en/home.html# Vogue's review of the show (2018): https://www.vogue.com/article/azzedine-alaia-je-suis-couturier
We discuss Rosamond Bernier’s extraordinary life, and wonder about pockets. Watch a clip of Rosamond Bernier’s lecturing at The Metropolitan Museum here: http://www.rosamondbernier.com/ Leslie Camhi’s 2011 article on Rosamond Bernier for Vogue: https://www.vogue.com/article/rosamond-bernier-the-flaming-debutante Rebecca's article about pockets for Cos: https://www.cosstores.com/gb/Studio/Projects/On_Pockets The Art of Manliness' take on man's pockets (2017): https://www.artofmanliness.com/2015/0...
We discuss gender binaries and barbershops, plus the art of flower making. Lauren Sherman, 'For Women, Hairstyles at the Barbershop', New York Times (11/12/2013): https://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/12/fashion/For-Women-Hairstyles-at-the-Barbershop.html F. Scott Fitzgerald, 'Bernice Bobs Her Hair' (1922): https://web.archive.org/web/20050830054426/http://www.sc.edu/fitzgerald/bernice/ Bassano Studio: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/group/18241.html Flower Makers Museum: https://www....
We discuss how Beatrice learnt to darn, and consider Jessica Jones and what superheroes should wear. Ray-Stitch: https://raystitch.co.uk/ Celia Pym: http://celiapym.com/ Annemor Sundbø: https://annemor.com/english/ Vladimir Arkhipov's Home-Made (2006): http://fuel-design.com/publishing/home-made/ Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework (1886): https://www.gutenberg.org/files/20776/20776-h/chapter_2.html#linen_darning Jessica Jones (2015-): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2357547/ Luke Cage (...
We discuss why we think Edwardian women look like mermaids and the influence of jazz on interwar British art and design. Lucile gown (1911): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81608.html Camille Clifford: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw178842/Camille-Clifford-Camilla-Antoinette-Clifford Paule Morly: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paule_Morly#/media/File:MORLY,_Paule_%C3%89toile._764-69._Photo_Stebbing.jpg Annette Kellerman: https://maas.mus...
We discuss how amazing Grace Jones is and imperfect clothes in museums. Sophie Fiennes (director), Grace Jones: Bloodlight & Bami (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt6903636/ Francis Ford Coppola (director), Bram Stoker's Dracula(1992): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103874/ Grace Jones with Paul Morley, 'I Never Write My Memoirs' (2016): http://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Ill-Never-Write-My-Memoirs/Grace-Jones/9781476765082 Present Imperfect: Disorderly Apparel Reconfigured exhibition (201...
We discuss the significance of jeans in the film I,Tonya, and interpreting Claire McCardell’s Monastic dress. I,Tonya (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt5580036/ Axel Yvon on Marithé + François Girbaud (2018): https://www.bonnegueule.fr/marithe-francois-girbaud-histoire-deux-techniciens-mode/ Igor Kopytoff, 'The cultural biography of things: commodization as process', in Arjun Appadurai, The social life of things, CUP 1986: http://socrates.acadiau.ca/courses/engl/rcunningham/ts2012/texts/intro/...
We discuss 18th century pleasure gardens and displaying historic fashions, and consider Gordon Parks’ fashion and documentary photographs. Miles, Ellie, 'A Museum of Everything: Making the Pleasure Gardens inside the Museum of London', The London Journal, vol. 38, no. 2 (July 2013), pp. 151-165 The Gordon Parks Foundation: http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/ Roth, Lorna, ‘Looking at Shirley, The Ultimate Norm: Colour Balance, Image Technologies, & Cognitive Equity’, Canadian Journal of Com...
We discuss Victor Stiebel’s tips for women, backstage beauty and the new Obama portraits. LCF Victor Stiebel Archive: https://vads.ac.uk/collections/LCFVS.html Beauty Instagrams: @patmcgrathreal @beautyisboring_ @violette_fr @morgane_martini @enywhitehead Doreen St. Félix on Amy Sherald's Michelle Obama portrait: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-appearances/the-mystery-of-amy-sheralds-portrait-of-michelle-obama Vinson Cunningham on Kehinde Wiley's Barrack Obama portrait: https://www.n...
We discuss the upcoming Conference on fashion and passing, and Raf Simons' references to Christiane F. in his latest collection. Passing: Fashion in American Cities conference, 5 May 2018, Courtauld Institute of Art, London: https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities Nella Larsen: http://brbl-archive.library.yale.edu/exhibitions/cvvpw/gallery/larsen.html Georg Simmel, Metropolis and Mental Life (1903/1950): http://www.blackwellpublishing.com/content/bpl_images/content_store/sa...
We discuss Phantom Thread and a visit to the V&A's stores to see haute couture. Phantom Thread official site: http://focusfeatures.com/phantom-thread Stephanie Zacharek's review for Time (21/12/2017): http://time.com/5075162/phantom-thread-movie-review/ Maytime in Mayfair (1949): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0041647/ Extract from Making Fashion (1938): https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g-7z2OiiqzA Callot Soeurs, 1922, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O140706/afternoon-dress-callot-soe...
We discuss why we think the latest Valentino haute couture collection was designed to be drawn and the women photographers that captured Weimar fashions. Valentino Spring 2018 Couture: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-couture/valentino#review Richard Haines Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/?hl=en Richard Brody on People On Sunday (1930): https://www.newyorker.com/culture/richard-brody/movie-week-people-sunday Frieda Riess or Die Riess: http://www.dasverborgenemu...
We discuss Kim Jones’ finale at Louis Vuitton, the proliferation of plastic and nylon raincoats in the menswear shows, and Bonnie Cashin’s inventive bag designs. Wear and Tear by Tracy Tynan: http://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Wear-and-Tear/Tracy-Tynan/9781501123696 Kim Jones Instagram: @mrkimjones Dries Van Noten instagram: @driesvannoten See all the shows on Vogue’s Runway App bonniecashin.org
We discuss the costumes of The Deuce (HBO 2017). The Deuce (2017) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt4998350/ Anna Terrazas hhttp://www.imdb.com/name/nm2607465/ Taxi Driver (1976)http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075314/ The Panic in Needle Park (1971) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067549/ Katzelmacher (1969) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0064536/ https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/27/style/sex-worker-prostitute-fashion-the-deuce-blade-runner.html https://fashionista.com/2017/09/hbo-the-deuce-costumes
We discuss Visible Mending and Unzipped, the 1995 documentary about Isaac Mizrahi by Douglas Keeve. See links below. Visible Mending https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/ http://celiapym.com/ https://tomofholland.com/ http://www.woolfiller.com/ http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/ http://goldenjoinery.com/#workshop Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/ and https://youtu.be/qNmJKsGylaY Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man...
