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Wine Craft - Scott Peterson

Jun 28, 202331 min
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Episode description

Scott then ventured into the world of winemaking entrepreneurship, creating his first label in 1999, S.P. Drummer, a highly acclaimed Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon blend, then Rumpus in 2007, focusing on Sonoma Coast wines. He worked diligently, entering new markets and selling wine through distributors, which brought initial success, but proved to be very time consuming and taxing. In 2013, Angels funded Scott’s third label, Rox, then took on his other 2 brands a few years later. Because of your support, his career has taken off and flourished. Scott – who dubs himself a “one-man show” – now has three labels – Rumpus, Rox and S.P. Drummer – the latter which is a throwback to his drumming days in Williamsburg. Since his first internships in Sonoma County, Scott has studied Sonoma’s appellations and investigated the best sites for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, like Petaluma Gap, Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. He’s also ventured into Napa Valley for Cabernet, Clarksburg for Petite Sirah and Tempranillo, and Argentina’s high-elevation vineyards for Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay.With Angel support, Scott’s making a diverse range of wines – his mom’s favorite Sauvignon Blanc, four distinctive Chardonnays, Napa and Sonoma Cabernets, California Petite Sirah and Tempranillo – plus a collection of wines from Argentina. His wines are one of a kind, just the way he likes them.

Transcript

Welcome to Wine Soundtrack USA. Let's listen to the passion with which producers narrate their winery and their world. In thirty answers discover their stories, personalities and passions. Hello, friends and listeners of Wine Soundtrack. This is Alice Levine and today I am in Sonoma with none other than Scott Peterson of Winecraft. Scott, welcome and tell us about winecraft and what that is and what that encompasses. Well, Hello, thanks for including me. Winecraft is an overall

umbrella company of line where I make in consult wines. The wines that I make for myself and Nakedwines dot Com are rocks retro, obsessive and extractive. And to come up with that name. In October so r o x r o X. I also have a project in Argentina Mendos, Argentina that's called Rocks of the yandis Rumpus Sellers, which is my Sonoma Coast brand that I

moved to the northern interior. It's kind of my entry level and in my flagship brand SP Drummer always thought name Drummer was kind of cool because I was a drummer boy on the Clineuisberg, Fife and drum Corps and Scott Peterson's kind of a blase name. So those are my four brands with naked wines. Fantastic. So you said you're based in Sonoma. You're obviously making wine in Sonoma and Argentina, and I'm curious how many cases do you produce and are

you sourcing fruit? Do you own fruit? Tell us a little bit about that and what grapes are you working with? Thank goodness, I don't own any vineyards. I learned that a long time ago, but I probably control about six hundred acres, most of that in Sonoma County from my Rocks program favorite varieties probably Sara. I make a really cool blend called Rocks All Blacks that's based on Serra patitzeras zim Fandel Alcante Bouche. I control those vineyards.

I make a bunch of Chardonnays from different appellations, Russian rivers and on the coast, and then sp Drummer is a signature wine that is essentially appellated from the Pedaluma gap. I do a small amount of Cabernet from Knights Valley as well. But the idea is to control as much as possible, dictate the style that I want. What is my style? You know, I'm kind of a big guy, so I like big wines, unctious wines. I

like wines that over deliver, and wines it simply tastes like more. Ah. Well, so you've been in the wine industry a very long time. But if you can remember back way back when, what is your first memory relevant to wine? First memory? I grew up in an Italian family, so my mother father drank wine every night. I was allowed a little bit with ginger ale kind of as a kid, and it was basically around the dinner table. My uncle tried making wine from California grapes that really didn't turn

out too well. I hoped him much later, but it was always around the house. It wasn't really reveled as something special or were you know, expensive by any means. That came a little bit later, but always been around it. And so when it came a little bit later. Is there one memorable wine? I'm sure there have been many, but is there one sort of that stands out that was an aha moment for a myriad of reasons. I mean, you tell me the wine and why it stood out to

you. Yeah, yeah, actually I have two. When I resigned from Kendall Jackson many moons ago, I guess there was in ninety eight and decided to at a very tender age to start my own consulting business and go to

Argentina. I thought my father thought I was crazy, but the character's Jet Steele and the people that I had worked for at the time of kJ took me out to this fabulous lunch at Mustard's Girl in Napa Valley, and that's where I was first introduced to Cordon Charlemagne, which is still my signature chardonnay

style and the best champagne I've ever had my life. I've only had a couple of times since was Salon. So those were two marquee lines that were just on a plateau above and beyond, and then kind of in chasing that style ever since, chasing and chasing and chasing. So if we were to come to your home, um, what sort of wines would we find in there? I mean, are you? Are you? I mean clearly if if your pinnacles are Cylon champagne and Chardonnay, do we find a lot of

those in your cellar? Or what else would we find. Well, it was a hot day, we'd go right to the fridge and I always have a couple of bottles of champagne non vintage, maybe some sparkling wine from from Cali, and then we'd probably move into crispy non New Zealand style Silvinion blocs. And then of course in this in this cellar, I always have a cash so some kick ass Chardonnay's, Peanuto wars et cetera, et cetera, but strong of affectionado of the winds of the Rane Valley. It was just

their last summer. It's kind of my style. It's big, unctuous ripe, etc. So you have a big smattering of domestic and international wines from all over and grapes, Alison, if we had to hold up in my house for sixty days, we'd be definitely taken care of. It's good to know. And I'm surprised you didn't drink it all during COVID. I did bust something though, that's for sure. So is there is there a wine that you opened up recently, maybe last night or in the last week,

that just drank incredibly And what was it? Yes, Saturday, Saint quome U twoy eighteen chatone enough to pop definitely my signature wine for a grass based wine, and I had it with Lamb actually, which was killer. A win win on all levels there. So you're working with a ton of different grapes and you've expressed sort of your love for you know, Roan grapes, Chardonnay, cabernet. Well, you're an equal opportunist for all these grapes. So do you think there's a such thing as a perfect um? No?

And I'm kind of a fanatic, uh to blend. I call myself a blending fanatic because I believe the summation of different blocks, of different quartels of the same variety often is much superior and certainly blends based on different varieties together. You know when I'm when I'm blending, I kind of you kind of close your eyes and you go into a blending session knowing exactly what you want,

and then it's can you make it happen? Um? As it was told to me a long time ago, go with your first intuition, um. Because you start to second guests and you start to play with the blends. Oftentimes you end up diluting things and it just gets complicated. So you make a lot of wine, and um, there's you're making a lot of blends and you're saying that there're's no perfect variety, which makes perfect sense.

He used perfect ties. There no intention there. But I'm curious about what about perfect scores or in general, what's your opinion on critics and scores? Are you aspiring to get that perfect score or do they not play a part? God, that's a loaded question. Um, it's like a critic for the ballet, for the theater, etc. First of all, they probably have never made a drop of wine. They're not classically trained. Um. You know, when I send out for scores, I do the shotgun approach

and I'll send it broadly to a bunch of different reviewers. Hopefully something hits and sticks. But I'm making a wine for consumers. Um, I want people to enjoy those wines. I want to bring the family together. I want them to enjoy them often. So whether it's a Pinnacle ninety six ninety eight, you know who really cares? Well, that's fair. I mean, you submit them if you get them great, right, you stop me on that. I was like, So for you, as a wine drinker,

you've said you like big and unctuous wines. In a quick answer, red white or Rose red and white. I'm not basically a Rose fan. Rose's kind of like bisexuality. It's either to the left to the right. I mean, go with one side excepted its champagne. So if I say you had to pick between still and sparkling to drink, probably sparkling to make still. So with such a variety of wines, and you just said the other night that you had the lamb with the stoneft to pop, how do

you approach food and wine pairing? I mean that was a great pairing that you had the other night, and it obviously made both the dish and the wine shine. Do you aspire to that every time you're cooking a meal and opening a bottle of wine? And do follow any rules or any rules you can share. I usually picked the wine first and then decide what I want to eat. Um, you know basic The white and white meats and red and red meats kind of follows in line, unless it's peanut war which goes

with everything. M. Sparkling wine goes with everything before the meal, after the meal, during the meal, breakfast, breakfast and eggs. M. Yeah, I mean, basically, it's it's more of a textural thing and it's a big, rich dish. It can take a big, rich wine, or you might want to have a wine that'll cut some of that fat, some of the grass, et cetera. But again I usually concentrate on

the wine and then and then decide what I want to eat. So for somebody who hasn't had the pleasure to try any of your wines, what do you think they're missing out on? Oh? Man, wait till we wait, till we meat. You know, I would say my style, you know, is more towards the mid palette texture, to the textural aspect. I pay a lot of tension to that, to the mouth feel. Um,

you know what sensory characteristics does does the wine give? Um? So, my wines tend to be bigger in style, both aromatically and both on the palette, whether it's so many oblanc, whether it's definitely chardonnay, you know, I make a classic chardonay that's beryl fermented mL um, it's a classic California. I think we go through styles up and down, and we

try to do things differently to be different. But the true winner winners for lack of a better word, in my book or the classic French varieties, so many oblanc, Chardonnay, PM no war, Cabernet and syra um. Those are my benchmark. So you know, we know that you're never supposed to ask a wine maker their favorite wine because it's like picking their favorite child.

And you make a lot of different wines and have different labels. But if space aliens were to land on your property right now, which of your wines from all the wines you make, would you want to welcome them with? Oh, I'd bring a boatload of chardoney. It's just so I make about five of them. I make a they get five bottles. Oh yeah, I mean we don't we want to divide and conquer, right, We want to appease these guys. But you know I like the big cabernets too,

because cabernets are very much a food wine. But if aliens were to come down, load them up with chardonay any particular one sp drummer and rocks so two actually there's three rock chardneys. Well you've been working in the wine business for how long? How many vintages? Well, if you saw me, you would say, wow, like maybe eight but I think it's a little bit more than that. I've been on my own for twenty years. I went to Argentina after resigning from kJ and prior to that Shadow Sat Michelle,

I ran the California properties. This was my thirty third vintage in Cali and my eighth vintage in South America. So that's forty two. Okay. So you've spent a lot of time in the vineyards and you have witnessed many, many vintages, and you've seen them on two hemispheres, which is actually pretty cool. So I'm wondering, how do you look at vintage variation and

between the two hemispheres. Do you see not between the two hemispheres, but do you see more commonality from vintage to vintage here versus in South America? Do you see more variation? What have you noticed over your decades worth of

working with different grapes. That's very interesting question, Alison, because where I produce wines in Argentina and Chile are between the thirty third and the thirty seventh parallel, maybe thirty eighth parallel, whether it be south or north continentally or Argentina is a continental climate, so it's more like Eastern Washington, et cetera.

Chile is a mirror image of California. So, you know tradition, I thought California had kind of an easier time because a lot of images were essentially perfect and the same, you know, until still about five years ago, until we got the fires and all the Shenanigans, etc. Fires, droughts now rainstorms. Yeah, and in thirty two years, it's ever been

more difficult. It should be getting easier. But I think Argentina is very different, you know than California, because they get their precipitation or the bulk of it in their summer months, whereas California is very dry during the summer. Again, it used to be very easy making one to California, and I'm into easy, but yeah, it's should challenge both ways. Just no

more fires, please. So are there any sort of signs or omens you look for that are going to help you determine what a vintage will be? Yeah. Cane growth. So cane growth is directly related to the amount of moisture in the springtime, whether it be the north or the south. Are the cane shorter than normal, are they longer than normal? That will be indicative of the crops, set the balance of the crop. Really, I look for about a meter to one point two of cane growth and I want

a perfect balance. I want the vines to look like a garden that manipulation starts early in the vintage year. In the north, it starts, say in May and June, and then we'll make other passes in July and August. But harvest time should be kind of an easy time to decide when to pick because it should be homogeneous, it should taste really good, it shouldn't be able to ripe, and it should have this kind of and I did it last week in Argentina. I like almost this crunchiness in the barriers.

So what we call crocante in Spanish, and just keep walking it walk and talk and and just be a tune. So when you're walking through those vinyons and talking, are you talking to yourself? Are you talking to your vines? Talking to the angels? Manu? Yeah, yeah, they're talking. No, I'm talking to the angels, yeah, who are controlling the vines

more or less everything. In all the years that you've been making wine, have you established any sort of rituals that you do at the start of harvest or during harvest, get some sleep, wake up early, and you only

do that during harvest basically. Yeah, Rich, that's kind of neat because you always um, you know, I go into the vineyard kind of I like pearl jam a lot, So I'll go into the vineyard kind of blasting music, and you're all amped up and you're excited, and then we start the sample maybe three weeks before we decided to pick, and realize that you're you're making you know, twenty ton decisions on a sample. It's probably weighing about a pound and a half or two pounds. So it's it's walking many

passes. It's it's looking at the vines, it's looking at the fruit. It's looking at the fruit zone. You know, are there any yellow leaves or dying off? Are the vine started to put her out. They're also working with the vineyard managers. You know, the vineyard managers that I work with have all been growing fruit for a generation or two or three. I'm not sure if I would call that any sort of rituals, although I guess walking the vineyard is the ritual, but I hope you're working with the growers

all the time regardless. Yeah, yeah. Yeah, even though they sometimes you would say that I'd not, but absolutely so when you were a little boy before. I mean, you've worked in the wine industry a long time and wine has been your life. So I don't know if you can go back before them. But what did you want to be when you grew up? Did you always know you wanted to be a wine maker? No,

I think I wanted to do something in the sea. I didn't really realize I wanted to be a winemaker until I made that migration from the East Coast to the West Coast and started to work in restaurants. My dad was a professor and a scientist. No, when I was a little kid, I think I wanted to travel and eat cool people. And as a winemaker, you get to travel and travel and meet cool people. So you're living your

dream. Absolutely so when you're not working, not traveling and live in the dream, what do you do in your free time In the winter months, I ski loved a ski, um summer months, the ocean, et cetera, and getting exercise five six days a week. Like to swim. I swim a bunch in the summertime. Um, yeah, and travel and eat

cool people. So you mentioned before that you had gotten a little advice when it came to making wine, and I'm wondering if there is another piece of advice that has stuck with you in how you live your life or or approach your work, and if so, what is it in who gave it to you? I'm not a loaded question, Allison. Um. You know there's this this simple saying of live every day like it's your last, because one

day it will be. Don't take advantage of what you have. I think my father told me that, um, yeah, O, no, no A short words. Well, and you gave me too. And if you could give advice to our listeners, what kind of advice would you give to them about wine? Have an open mind, learn as much or as little as you'd like, trust your first intuitions. And wine, to me is something that you can always learn. I mean, I've got forty two vintages, forty three vintages, I have a degree in it, so I'd make

god probably about forty different wines. I'm always learning something. There's something to learn, there's something to expand upon. You never will master it, which is which is cool. I hope I never reached a plateau of making a certain type of wine. Yeah, it's just ongoing. Yeah, it's it's if if you always want to constantly be learning, keeping absolute Absolutely so,

when you look back at your illustrious career and forty some odd harvests. Um, what would you say is one of your proudest achievements to date, it's a date because it's still in the future. Right, you have a whole life ahead of you. Yeah, it's still in the future, even though you're living each day as if it's your last turn. It up a notch. Um, Yeah, let's let's see. Um proud of accomplishments again. I'm making wine for the consumers. I've been very, very fortunate to be

a part of some programs were very successful that accelerated. UM. I was hired on as the founding member of Textbook Wines how about fifteen years ago. That has been an international and a national success that my partner just sold three years ago. I've got four consulting clients. They're small and I think kind of family run, which is cool and very prideful going through the three term system. I like that, and I like the fact that, you know,

I think anybody can do a couple hundred cases of something stellar. But can you add another zero at another zero and bring volume with quality remaining the same. I think is a gift basically, you know, can you do something that's five thousand and eight thousand cases that tastes like it's two hundred cases, something that people don't think that they're special, and you know it's a broad base. Again, I'm making wine for consumers and people to enjoy.

This is not food, shelter and housing. You know, one is a luxury product. It's meant to be enjoyed with friends and family. Well, speaking of that, if you were sitting at a table like we are now, and there's an empty seat at that table, and we've got your wines on the table, who from any walk of life, living or deceased would you desire to share a bottle of your wine with to show what you've done?

Oh, two characters, Robin Williams passed away and Eddie Vetter pearled yah together together creating something for me. I feel like you were prepared for that. That came so quickly, Wow, so complete the sentence. For me, a table without wine is like a swimming pool without water and ties in

because you're a schimmerc Yeah, I got it. Yeah, Ascott. I have a question for you because you were talking about we talked earlier about vintage variation, and you talked about, you know, sort of the rough go that California has seen in the last few years relative to the last few decades. And I'm curious when you look at that, you think will still be making and drinking wine in three hundred years or more? Oh yeah, yeah, yeah, absolutely with climatic warming. It is here. It's real,

man, Um. You know, there's same vineyards or same areas that I've been harvesting and making wine from for several years, and they're getting right for sooner. Um. You know, the highs are higher and the lows are lower. It's for real. So three hundred years we might be making wine in Alaska, you know, I don't know. Um, It's something I think we all need to really really in our generation for the next generation and the next and the next um start to look at and how can we slow

things down. I'm not sure we can reverse them, but we got to slow things now. So if if you unfortunately couldn't slow down and you were sent to a deserted island, what three wines would you take with you? Well, you know that's another interesting question. If you're on a desert island and who's going to actually you know who you can allowing the boat you want

to fermenter because they're ferment fermenting. Guy, can't ferment freaking anything. You get three lines and you don't have to worry about refrige ration or ice or temperature outside. But three wines would be your last three lines if you had it. If you had to pick h my benchmark Salon Champagne, maybe just three bottles of that, okay, if we couldn't have three, and if you have three different ones, guy, you're pressing it um. Then I would like, uh, let's see what is the NAPA. You know there's

some great stuff from the Tokolon Vineyard, Schrader and and et cetera. That's pretty cool, but out of my price bracket. It's your island, so you can take whatever you want. You're taking Salon after all. Yeah, yeah, things are looking up. I would take probably a really really good French Burgundy Roumanique County, something like that, and then I dig, you know, Cali, Sara, New World, Sara m Radio Quatreaux or actually, you know, Shafer makes a really good saw out of Napa real endless.

There we go. See you did it in the edge. Well I've got it's time. Now I've got one more question, one more challenge for you, and that is to parent wine with music. You know the game we play here at the end of wine soundtrack every time it's an opportunity to talk about some of your specific wines and also what kind of music it makes you think of what you'd want to listen to, and then maybe we'll all try it at home. So I'm going to start with your Rumpus twenty twenty

Sauvegnu Blanc. You said these are your value wines, your entry level wines, the rumpus wines. So what about this wine. Yeah, that's kind of est wine. It gets things moving, So that might be poolside. It's my mom's favorite wine. So as we come into the party, you know there's a bunch of kids running around, jumping in the pool or rambunctious. We'd have to turn it up a notch. Maybe something from the Beastie Boys Sabotage. You guys know that one. And this is a avenuon blanc

that is not new Zealand style. So is it a little more sun Sarah like, Um, how would you describe it? Uh, Scottie Peace style. UM. I would think, you know, kind of a California definitely new world. UM. It's again unctuous that has weight on the palette and it's about eight percent U Beryl fermented its age sur lee for about five months, so there's weight, texture, lots of ripe melons, UM picked over

two different UM picking dates. It's it's a bigger style. Yeah, okay, what about your UM rocks the California, the Sonoma Rocks and UM Cabernet. Let's see music, okay, X kind of getting into the UM. So now in this imaginary barbecue, we went from Sylvinia Blanc. We missed Chardonnay by the way. Maybe we'll come back to it. Okay. So then this was this is kind of um. You know, the kids are probably in doing the video game things. So we're outside. It's still warm.

Um, we've had a nice meal, or maybe we might be in the middle of the Argentina. Sado got ahead Sado every day last week, so wonderful. UM, something kind of brooding. Maybe. One of my favorite artists is Thievery corporation. Um, and there's a great track called Sweet Tides that I really dig. Um, you know, go to Spotify and do Thievery Corporation. They play in northern Cali quite a bit, so that goes with the cabernet from Rocks. But then let's go down south to Rocks

of the Andies and a quintessential Argentine grape malback. Yeah, Um, they have might Okay, I have a good artist there. I was listening to a little bit earlier today. Um, and I just turned my buddies, my Commandante's in Argentina to this. Last week was um, I just got oh yeah, yeah, yeah. A guy who also lives in Oakland. I think he's from East Coast, but from Oakland called Citizen Cope. Kind of a balladeer, singer, a songwriter. We'll go tour solo and we'll

also tour with a band. But he's got some nice riffs, good sense of humor, optimism. Um doesn't like to be controlled, So I think that kind of puts the Ardentine thing all wrapped up. And then we'll finish with your sp drummer wine and we'll go back to Chardonnay. Your quintessential California. Chardonay. You almost have it there, Alison. You know, when I'm in the UK, it's like, I love the way the women say chardonay. That's why I make it um. So yes, let's see.

So I have to go to a necessarily a new genre, but it would have to be something, you know, kind of mellow, nice melody. What have I been listening to? M drawing a blank here again, moving to the to the Thievery Corporation and trying to think who was at Bottle Rock or who's going to be there? You know, there's kind of a cool Mexican band called Kinky that has some great riffs and some great rhythms. And then might kind of because Chardonay would be our second one still beyond Blanc,

then Chardonnay and then Rocks, Cabernet and the Andi. So we're still a little rambunctious, kids are still running around. So try try the band Kinky. You had some young Mexican guys I think out of Mexico City that have some great moves. Cool. Okay, well there you go. We now have a new playlist. So Scott, my final question for the day is what wine region in the world. I know you just got back from Argentina and you split your time between there and here, But what wine region in

the world is at the top of your bucket list to explore? Interesting because we had this round robin discussion literally Friday night when I was in Mendoza, Argentino, and it's where would you like to make wine? Are your number one wine destination? We all we're thinking, and you know, Prima Donna's were like Burgundy and then Champagne and blah blah blah. But I think kind of the Northern Rohan because it's rugged. I dig saraw Avignon. That's not

Northern Rome, but it's more of the Southern Rohan. That's where I would like to, uh, to have a project that's to make wine. What about to visit same thing. I've already been there a couple of times, but yeah, I love visiting there. The same thing. Well, so if somebody wanted to visit you or find your wines, part two of this question is how can they find your wines? So most of my wines are available through Nakedwines dot Com, direct to consumer m I folded my two brands

into their portfolio in twenty fifteen, so eight years ago. So I would strongly suggest that you go to Nakedwines dot com. Check it out, look look up Scott Peterson. You can see me a couple of podcasts and uh, you know for what that is. And then if you're we're in northern California, we do have a couple of cooperative wineries. One is in Kenwood, one is in the southern part of Napa. Contact anybody or email me directly if you're in town. If I'm in town, I can meet up.

We can taste some wines in the barrels, hang out pul aside. Maybe, yeah, I'm around northern California. Sounds good. So if you head up to Sonoma and you want some unctuous big what does rock stand for again? Retro, obsessive and extractive. Yeah, so if you want some rocks, then find Scott Peterson. Checkout Nakedwines dot com. Look him up and check out his wines. We've got rocks, rocks of the andies, rumps, rumpus and sp drummer. So, Scott, thank you for joining

us on wine soundtrack. I hope you had a little bit of fun. Thank you so much. Alison, what a pleasure. Cheers Choo, cheers, thanks for listening to a new episode of Wine Soundtrack USA. For details and updates, visit our website wine soundtrack dot com. Um

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