Museum at FIT and Accessories Galore with Elizabeth Way
Museum at FIT and Accessories Galore with Elizabeth Way by Unravel A Fashion Podcast
Aug 26, 2020•46 min
Unravel A Fashion Podcast
A podcast with a focus on fashion history.
Featuring cohosts Jasmine, Joy, and Dana
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Episodes
137. Fashion In Focus: Edamburu Hair Style
In this episode, we will be talking about Edamburu hairstyle worn by Mangbetu women in the early 20th century. Also called the tumburu style, it was popularized and fetishized by fashion designers and movies. We want to thank scholar Vicky Pass for allowing us to use her research for this episode. Thumbnail: Naomi Simms in a fashion editorial, possibly Life Magazine. Photos of the hairstyle being created (@t4yana): https://www.instagram.com/p/BcGNEtPl7Wa/ Vicky Pass' posts about the hairstyle: h...
Aug 19, 2020•16 min
136. Being Black In The Archives
This episode is a little different. Firstly, this is a pre-pandemic conversation. Consider this an oral history of friends. Joy talks with friend of the show and scholar Johnathan Michael Square about being black in academia. They share triumphs, challenges, feelings, and advice to those wanting to pursue careers in academia. Talking PointsHow do you choose a college?, Deb Willis, NYU, FIT, UMBC, Where are the Black conservators? Image Credit: gentlemansgazette.com via Brooks Brothers Find Jonat...
Jul 28, 2020•55 min
135. Fashion in Focus: The Panama Hat
In this Fashion In Focus Jasmine reveal the history of the Panama Hat (which is actually the Toquilla Hat) that does not originate from Panama. The woven's hat originated and is still manufactured in Ecuador. Image credit: www.domingocarranza.com Resources: https://www.domingocarranza.com/dcpanamahatsblog/ https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/panama-hat/ https://ultrafino.com/blogs/articles/the-complete-panama-hat-history https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Panama_Hat_Trail/QNgtDwAAQBAJ?hl=en&...
Jul 14, 2020•11 min
134. Unravel After Dark Tease: Nipple Politics
For this Unravel, After Dark episode Joy and Jasmine discuss the history and symbolism of the nipple in fashion and art. For this Unravel, After Dark episode Joy and Jasmine discuss the history and symbolism of the nipple in fashion and art. We start in the “ancient period” and end somewhere around the Janet Jackson and Justin Timberlake debacle. This is just the teaser join our Patreon to listen to the full episode patreon.com/unravelpodcast. This episode contains adult themes and content liste...
Jul 07, 2020•22 min
133. Live! The Great Migration, The Harlem Rennaissance and A Ruby Bailey
A live introduction to the life of Ruby Bailey https://blog.mcny.org/2016/01/05/reintroducing-ruby-bailey/ http://www.fashionstudiesjournal.org/histories/2016/8/30/the-life-and-work-of-anne-lowe-zelda-wynn-valdes-and-ruby-bailey https://www.nytimes.com/2005/02/13/nyregion/thecity/a-closetful-of-genius.html WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba: pastichelumumba.com twitter.com/PasticheLumumba Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPa...
Jul 01, 2020•42 min
132. Fashion In Focus: Osage Wedding Coat
In this FIF Jasmine discuss the history and cultural significance of the Osage wedding coat. Image credit: Image credits: Wedding Outfit, ca. 1900. Osage (Great Plains). Gift of Fred and Monte Eiserman. 95” H. C/o The Museum of Red River FB WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba: pastichelumumba.com twitter.com/PasticheLumumba Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter...
Jun 23, 2020•19 min
130. Unravel After Dark Tease: Helmut Newton
Coming in hot with an Unravel, After Dark sneak peak. In this episode Jasmine and Joy discuss the provocative photography of Helmut Newton. For the full episode join our Patreon. Image credit: “IMAN, Vogue October 1989 Shot by Helmut Newton Fashion Editor, Andre Leon Talley” Listen to the full episode by joining our Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodca...
Jun 16, 2020•12 min
130. The Ideal Body: Part I
Joy and Jasmine introduce a 3 part series focused on the “ideal body” in fashion. In this first episode, they discuss, analyze and dissect the ideal body in Greek and Roman art and culture. Image credit: Chris Rellas of Copylab WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba: pastichelumumba.com twitter.com/PasticheLumumba Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodc...
Jun 09, 2020•1 hr 5 min
129. Fashion Forecasting with Camila Straschnoy
Jasmine talks to Camila Straschnoy, a brand strategist, trends researcher, and storyteller about her fascinating work in trend and fashion forecasting. Tune in to discover how fashion history informs fashion’s future. Image Credit: Jeff Walton Find Cami: http://camilastraschnoy.com/ Instagram: @camistraschnoy WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba: pastichelumumba.com twitter.com/PasticheLumumba Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast Pa...
Jun 02, 2020•43 min
128. Fashion Flash with Jonathan Michael Square
This episode is a little different. First, this is a pre-pandemic conversation. Second, because we are in the midst of a revolution and a pandemic we decided to share a new segment created by Jonathan Michael Square and Joy. We discuss what our favorite wardrobe is, who we would want to play us in a movie, and much more. Find Jonathan Michael Square: https://www.facebook.com/fashioningtheself/ Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/...
May 26, 2020•33 min
127. Interview with Luxury by Feyi
Jasmine interviews Feyisola Adeyemi, the Nigerian-British creative director of the line Luxury by Feyi. They discuss Feyi’s journey in the fashion industry, the luxury design market in Britain, and her advice for young black designers. Find Luxury by Feyi here: Instagram: @luxurybyfeyi Website: https://luxurybyfeyi.com/ Master Class: https://www.lbfmasterclass.com/?fbclid=IwAR2YTemyOqEkvHammXshyHgbn_KIRdnrA40NtuVaoJu4vQE1vFkyZykT8Ys Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.c...
May 12, 2020•56 min
126. Spectrum of Fashion Exhibition at MdHS
Joy @joythea chats with Jasmine @jastare about the latest exhibition, Spectrum of Fashion at The Maryland Historical Society @marylandhistory . The show "highlights the extraordinary breadth of the MdHS costume collection across four centuries and features nearly 100 examples of women’s and men’s clothing and accessories, as well as decorative arts." Join us on a fashionable escape and tune in to the latest episode. On Thursday's Unravel Weeklies (5/7) Joy will dive into the catalog. For more in...
May 05, 2020•39 min
125. Fashion in Focus: The Bandolier Belt
Another Fashion In Focus episode is here! Joy talks about the bandolier belt. This was a utilitarian accessory used in battle and in cultures around the world. In the 1970s, however, there was a major case of appropriation. Sources: Anderson, Marcia. "The Ojibwe Bandolier Bag or Gashkibidaagan." In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: The United States and Canada, edited by Phyllis G. Tortora. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic, 2010. Accessed April 20, 2020. http://dx.doi.org.i.ezproxy.nypl.o...
Apr 22, 2020•7 min
124. Dior's Feminism
Joy and Jasmine discuss Dior's brand of feminism under the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri. In 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri made feminism a part of her artist design statement. It was a huge hit but some were critical that is was diluting the message of feminism protests, the Women’s March, etc. At the time the “We Should All Be Feminists” t-shirt (seen on the left) was a huge hit and they were bought up, copied, and resold at an accelerated rate. The clothes are beautiful but white femin...
Apr 08, 2020•55 min
123. Kerry Bannigan on Fashion, SDGs, and Covid-19
Kerry Bannigan is a social impact event creator, producer, and entrepreneur who curates global activations and initiatives that advocate sustainable development. Bannigan is the Founder of the Conscious Fashion Campaign, in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, engaging leading global industry event stakeholders to commit to the achievement of the Sustainable Development Goals. She has built a career imbedded in the fashion industry and with the Conscious Fashion Campaig...
Mar 31, 2020•36 min
122. Jay Jaxon: 40 Years Of Fashion Design Brilliance
Jasmine talks to Joy about her visit to the exhibition “Jay Jaxon: 40 Years Of Fashion Design Brilliance” at the Queens Historical Society that was curated by Rachel Fenderson. Luckily, the show is on view until December 2020 so you can see it post-pandemic. For more information about this exhibit: https://queenshistoricalsociety.org/featured/jay-jaxon-exhibition/ Guest curator, Rachel Fenderson: http://rachelfenderson.com/ Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unrave...
Mar 24, 2020•49 min
121. Deborah Willis: the Closet as Archive
Joy talks to Jasmine about her thoughts on NYU exhibit Deborah Willis: the Closet as Archive curated by Kalia Brooks. More information on the exhibition: https://tisch.nyu.edu/photo/events/deborah-willis--the-closet-as-archive Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afas...
Mar 10, 2020•22 min
120. This Is An Episode about FIT
This was a tough conversation to have and research. Thank you to friend and colleagues that have been following the story of Junkai Huang's Alumni runway show, February 2020. Topics: Disfunction, leadership in the design program, who got fired?, all the responses from involved parties, the timeline of events, points to learn from References: https://www.thedailybeast.com/fit-students-reveal-why-schools-racist-runway-controversy-just-opened-up-a-bigger-wound https://nypost.com/2020/02/18/fit-apol...
Mar 04, 2020•40 min
119. Fashion in Focus: Lace Cap
In this Fashion in Focus Jasmine details the surprisingly provocative history history of the the diaphanous lace caps of the 18th century. Image: Jean François de Troy, Declaration of Love, 1731. WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba: pastichelumumba.com twitter.com/PasticheLumumba Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/u...
Feb 26, 2020•10 min
118. Policy & Precedent for Reparations with Jonathan Michael Square
Joy talks to Jonathan Michael Square about #ADOS and how fashion history can inform policy surrounding reparations for descendants of slavery in the United States. More ways to engage with Jonathan Michael Square: www.jonathansquare.com www.instagram.com/stylesquared www.facebook.com/fashioningtheself www.instagram.com/fashioningtheself www.jonathansquare.tumblr.com https://ados101.com/ WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba: pastichelumumba.com twitter.com/PasticheLumumba Find...
Feb 18, 2020•6 min
117. The Manila Shawl
In this episode of Fashion in Focus Joy and Jasmine break down a well known garment, the Manila Shawl. Jasmine brings up some excellent points about Flamenco. And they both hammer home Unravel’s new word: Colonial fashion systems.
Feb 11, 2020•1 hr 9 min
116. Recuerdos De Nicaragua
In this episode Jasmine talks to Joy about her Instagram archive @recuerdosdenicaragua and her research on the impact of Moravian Mission on Miskitu, Mayagna and Creole dress in the Mosquito Coast of Nicaragua. Jasmine will be presenting at the Dividing Lines: An African American and Native American Symposium at Kennesaw State University, Horace Sturgis Library on February 8, 2020.https://dividinglines.wixsite.com/home/2020-schedule Find us:Website: www.unravelpodcast.comPatreon: www.patreon.com...
Feb 04, 2020•1 hr 15 min
115. Unravel, After Dark Teaser: The History of the Merkin
Jasmine and Joy chat about the long history of the sexy furry beauty accessory - the merkin. Don't know what the hell a merkin is? Don't worry, we got you covered ;). Listen to the full episode by joining our Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast Image: Behold: A cat face merkin. (Picture: MerkinBoutique/ Etsy) Theme: Jungle Fever by Chakachas Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter...
Jan 31, 2020•12 min
114. Unravel: Roundtable Black Magazines
Joy and Jasmine discuss the importance of black magazines as a fashion resource and the Jet and Ebony archives sale in 2019. References: https://bmoreart.com/2020/01/what-can-we-keep.html https://www.nbcnews.com/news/nbcblk/ebony-jet-magazines-transformed-narrative-black-america-now-their-photo-n1030771 https://bmoreart.com/2020/01/hidden-histories-the-i-henry-photo-project.html WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba: pastichelumumba.comtwitter.com/PasticheLumumba Find us: Webs...
Jan 28, 2020•1 hr 15 min
113. Fashion In Focus: The Mysterious Azorean Hood
Joy was recently inspired by a post about these voluptuous hoods on www.vintage.es and decided to research them. There are still many mysteries abound about this hood and how it was constructed. We hope some of our fashion nerds can help us unpack all of this garments mysteries! Edit: Joy mentions that the Azores are off the coast of Spain but in fact they are located off of the coast of what is modern day Portugal and Spain. References: https://royalnonesuch.wordpress.com/2011/03/20/azorean-cap...
Jan 21, 2020•9 min
112. Fashion and Architecture in Place: Interview with Dr. Brandi T. Summers
Joy talks to Dr. Brandi T. Summers about her work in Black geographies, race and urban aesthetics, architecture and design. Dr. Summers received her Phd from UC Santa Cruz and is an Assistant Professor of Geography and Global Metropolitan Studies at UC Berkeley. You can find Dr. Brandi T. Summers’ work: www.branditsummers.com www.theblackgeographic.com References: Black In Design, Harvard Graduate School of Design, https://www.gsd.harvard.edu/event/black-in-design-2019-black-futurism-creating-a-...
Jan 14, 2020•56 min
111. Fashioning the Self and Justice with Jonathan Michael Square
In this episode Joy talks with friend of the show Jonathan Michael Square. He is a scholar, Harvard lecturer, and publisher who works on subjects about the African diaspora. They discuss the foundation of his work Fashioning the Self, the 1619 project, Fashion and Justice workshop, Monica Miller, and how to get the most out of your time in academia. More ways to engage with Jonathan Michael Square: www.jonathansquare.com www.instagram.com/stylesquared www.facebook.com/fashioningtheself www.insta...
Dec 31, 2019•52 min
110. Fashion In Focus: The Santa Suit
Happy Holidays #fashionnerds! We have an exclusive FIF on the suit worn by one of the most famous magical Christmas figures, Santa Claus! We hope this figure brings you cheer this season. Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com...
Dec 23, 2019•16 min
109. Three Wardrobes: Favorite Fashion Portraits with Lisa Small
Joy talked with Senior European Art curator Lisa Small about her fashion in her collection at the Brooklyn Museum of Art. Lisa’s picks Miguel Cabrera (Mexican, 1695-1768). Doña María de la Luz Padilla y Gómez de Cervantes, ca. 1760. Oil on canvas, 43 x 33 in. https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/opencollection/objects/4885 Agostino Brunias (Italian, ca. 1730-1796). Free Women of Color with Their Children and Servants in a Landscape, ca. 1770-1796. Oil on canvas, 20 x 26 1/8 in. https://www.brooklynmus...
Dec 17, 2019•40 min
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