This episode is a McQueen I Voss I S/S 2001 runway show review with the incredible London based John Matheson aka @McQueen_Vault . John, who has been curating is private McQueen archive for over 25 years, has contributed to many fashion discussions, publications, and exhibitions including LACMA (Los Angeles County Museum of Art) and NGV (National Gallery Victoria, Melbourne). If you love Lee Alexander McQueen, then this conversation is for you. I hope you enjoy and please share your thoughts! **...
Jan 20, 2024•14 min•Ep. 54
This episode is a conversation with two culture makers based in London-- Terence Eben (Tee) and Franklin Fresh . Tee built streetwear brands in the U.S. from back in the day in the 1990s. He has always played a role in bridging culture from the early days of hip hop emergence. Tee's brand NEVER FADE focuses on marrying social agenda and design philosophy, with a focus on creating a label as an advocate for the global millennial generation. Franklin Fresh found his way to fashion as a styli...
Sep 15, 2023•24 min•Ep. 53
This episode is a conversation with Adrian Alicea, Voguing Icon of the Red Era Ballroom and New York City fashion designer. Alicea will show his eponymous brand in NYFW on Sunday, September 10th at La Mama. Alicea toured the world as a professional dancer alongside the legendary Willi Ninja including two electrifying performances in “Deep in Vogue” and “Waltz Darling” by the multi-talented Malcolm McClaren. You may remember the now iconic image of Alicea vouging the runway with Iman and Willi Ni...
Sep 05, 2023•23 min•Ep. 52
David Curtis-Ring is a British artist and designer, based in London. He specialises in creating set design and sculpture for installation, film and performance. David is known for his collaborations with Craig Green, working alongside the designer, since the brand’s launch in 2013. He was production designer for Pink Floyd’s The Endless River film directed by Ian Emes and in 2020 he designed the multi-sensory installation Next Landscape for C.P. Company’s FW020. David graduated from Goldsmiths U...
Aug 11, 2023•27 min•Ep. 51
Barbie, the movie, is the much anticipated summer film of 2023! So, we had to join the Barbie conversation with Barbie Guru Frank New who is a New York-based Barbie collector and academic from the queer lens. Frank travels the globe sharing their Barbie research. Frank lives fearlessly out-loud with authentic fabulousness! Frank is the founder of fashion and event production company ManYourStyle. Frank received a Master of Arts in Costume Studies at New York University. #barbie #queerbarbie #bar...
Jul 17, 2023•26 min•Ep. 50
This episode a conversation with Kimberly Jenkins who is a brilliant, boundary breaking woman and world-renowned fashion educator, consultant, and leading voice on fashion and race. Kimberly is the founder and CEO of Artis Solomon, a fashion consultancy firm, and founder of The Fashion and Race Database, a one of a kind learning platform that is supported by subscribing universities and museums globally. Most recently, she co-produced and hosted the podcast, "The Invisible Seam," in pa...
Jul 14, 2023•32 min•Ep. 49
This BONUS episode is a talk with host Zara Korutz on the current state of marketing and the luxury fashion industry in a post-pandemic world using Maison Margiela as a case study thread of debate. This talk isn't a super deep dive analysis but rather is meant to be a conversation starter so please share your thoughts on social media or on our website unbiasedlabel.com . Host, Zara Korutz launched Unbiased Label podcast after earning her MA (with Distinction) in Fashion Critical Studies from...
Jun 23, 2023•17 min•Ep. 48
This episode is a conversation with three Indian fashion voices — Shriya Zamindar, Mukul Bhatia and Jebin Johny — examining the Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2023 runway show that took place on March 31, 2023 at The Gateway of India in Mumbai. This fashion meets cultural celebration came 60 years after Dior first traveled to India to showcase the brand’s spring-summer 1962 couture collection by Creative Director, Marc Bohen. — Guests — Shriya Zamindar is the Fashion Features Editor for Vogue India. Sh...
Jun 16, 2023•57 min•Ep. 47
This episode is a conversation with Finnegan Shepard who is founder of Both& Apparel—a company that closed on one-million seed round and is pioneering non-binary fashion, starting with apparel for trans men. The company is powered by the belief that trans masculine, non-binary, and gender non-conforming people deserve gender joy through fashion. On March 31, 2023, Both&, launched their first global advertising campaign photographed by non-binary photographer Lydia Garrett of creative age...
May 29, 2023•45 min•Ep. 46
This episode kicks off a new season and is a conversation with the legend Dana Thomas who is a world-renowned fashion author, journalist, podcast host, and leading voice on sustainability. Dana has been called “The Woodward and Bernstein” of the fashion industry because of her investigative style of reporting. Dana’s intelligent reporting style comes from her journalism training at The Washington Post where she wrote for many sections including the Style section with fashion editor Nina Hyde alo...
May 15, 2023•26 min•Ep. 45
This episode is a conversation with Dr. Carolyn Mair who is a London based author, educator, speaker, consultant, Charted Psychologist and Fellow of the British Psychological Society. In 2012, Dr. Mair developed the Psychology Department at London College of Fashion and created the world's first Psychology for Fashion Masters degrees (MA and MSc). In 2018, Dr. Mair published The Psychology of Fashion. The idea of 'fashion psychology' has now become a growing global phenomenon ...
Jan 31, 2023•34 min•Ep. 44
This episode examines the Chanel 2022/23 Métiers d’Art runway show that took place on December 6, 2022 at the former “Palais de Justice” Hall in Dakar, Senegal, West Africa. Beyond cultural and artistic inspiration, I was curious to unpack this show, but given of my own limited Western perspective, I thought it most appropriate to seek answers from a local Senegalese who attended the show which led me to past Unbiased Label podcast guest Milcos Badji who is a Senegalese fashion designer from Dak...
Dec 29, 2022•33 min•Ep. 43
This episode is a conversation with Nigerian Fashion Journalist Elvis Kachi. Kachi has been published in many magazines and news outlets including Vanity Teen, BBC, Guardian, BusinessDay Nigeria, Essence, and Quartz to name a few. His reporting focuses on conversations with fashion designers whose work is changing the stereotypical ideologies of African fashion and breaking gendered norms. Most recently, Kachi's work highlighted how transgender Nigerians could be jailed for cross-dressing ...
Oct 21, 2022•26 min•Ep. 42
Gaurav Monga is a writer and teacher originally from New Delhi. He is the author of Tears for Rahul Dutta (Philistine Press, 2012), Family Matters (Eibonvale Press, 2019), Ruins (Desirepath Publishers, 2019), Costumes of the Living (Snuggly Books, 2020), My Father, The Watchmaker (Hawakal Publishers, 2020) and The English Teacher (Raphus Press, 2021). Gaurav's work has appeared in numerous literary magazines, including B O D Y, Fanzine, Juked, Tammy Journal, Spurl Editions, Queen Mob...
Sep 26, 2022•35 min•Ep. 41
This episode is a conversation with Beau McCall aka “The Button Man" who is a New York-based cultural tastemaker & visual artist that creates wearable and art by applying clothing buttons onto up-cycled fabrics, materials, and objects generating discussion on topics related to pop culture and social justice. McCall has been featured in the NY Times, Associated Press, NPR, and L.A. Times. His visual and wearable art has been included in many exhibitions and is held in the permanent coll...
Aug 30, 2022•39 min•Ep. 40
This episode is a conversation with John Matheson who is a London based Alexander McQueen enthusiast, archivist and owner of the Instagram account, @McQueen_Vault. John has contributed to many fashion exhibitions, discussions and publications including Show Studio. Over the past two years, John has been working as a consultant on Alexander McQueen exhibitions with museums LACMA (Los Angeles County Museum of Art) and NGV (National Gallery Victoria, Melbourne). Please join me as I talk with John a...
Jun 02, 2022•35 min•Ep. 39
This episode is a conversation with Colleen Hill, Fashion Author and Curator at The Museum at FIT. Colleen holds an MA in Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice from FIT and is currently a PhD candidate at London College of Fashion. Her most recent exhibition Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s (2021) is on exhibit until April 17, 2022. Colleen has authored or coauthored many books on fashion and contributed to numerous other publications including her latest ...
Mar 21, 2022•57 min•Ep. 38
This episode is an unedited talk that I recorded over the summer with my friend and life guru Mukul Bhatia. It's a raw and vulnerable conversation with my puppy Bijou barking in the background. I talk with Mukul from Bali about all the important topics that intersect with living in a Post-pandemic world including sustainability, fashion, consumerism, society, trauma, relationship, and personal growth. Mukul Bhatia who is an award-winning visual artist from India based in Bali focused on su...
Dec 02, 2021•1 hr 14 min•Ep. 37
This bonus episode is a critical fashion talk by host Zara Korutz focused on the investigation of the babushka headscarf style trend by examining its cultural implications both historically and in contemporary context. Additionally, Jacqueline Pham from the Asian Fashion Journal investigates the lack of representation of Asian plus-size models. If you geek out over fashion and culture, then this talk is for you… Please engage with your thoughts afterwards on social media or with a pe...
Nov 18, 2021•30 min•Ep. 36
This episode is a conversation with Carl Ray, a Washington, D.C. based celebrity make-up artist, who has been in the beauty industry for over 20 years. Carl's prolific work is evidenced in his position as official make-up artist for former First Lady Michelle Obama since 2009. Carl has also worked with a long roster of notable clientele including: Anna Wintour, Meryl Streep, Natalie Portman, Claire Danes, Diane Von Furstenberg, Debra Messing, Stella McCartney, Kerri Washington, Gabriel Union, Ad...
Nov 03, 2021•36 min•Ep. 35
This episode is conversation between Zara Korutz and Aleksandar (Aleks) Mitrovic who both graduated with an MA from Central Saint Martins in 2020 during the pandemic. Zara graduated with an MA in Fashion Communication: Fashion Critical Studies and Aleks graduated with an MA in Fashion (womenswear pathway). Aleks spent the past 7 years at Central Saint Martins on the journey of becoming an elite fashion designer earning an MA, BA (Hons) and Foundation diploma in Fashion. He also received the Ye L...
Oct 27, 2021•30 min•Ep. 34
This episode is a conversation with Jebin Johny who is a sustainable luxury fashion designer based in Kerala, a state on the southwest Malabar Coast of India. Jebin launched his brand Jebsispar in 2015 at Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai. His designs have been featured in Vogue India, The Indian Express, The Hindu and The Hindu Metro Plus, and worn by Hindi film actresses including Sonam Kapoor, Kalki Koechlin and Vidya Balan. Jebin's handwoven and handprinted cotton fabric designs are ...
Oct 27, 2021•29 min•Ep. 33
This episode is a conversation with avant-garde fashion legend Simon Ungless who is the Executive Director of the Fashion School at San Francisco's renowned Academy of Art University where he has a twenty-plus year tenure and was awarded an honorary Doctorate degree. His fashion academic approach is built around artistic first principles rooted in the passion to create, collaborate and above all, challenge the status quo. Ungless' own fashion brand When Simon Met Ralph reflects his signature bol...
Oct 27, 2021•58 min•Ep. 32
This episode is a conversation with Fiona Sinclair Scott, Global Editor of CNN Style, who oversees CNN's award winning international coverage of the arts, design, fashion, beauty and luxury. Prior to CNN, Fiona was an executive producer of video for I-D Magazine. In March 2020, CNN Style launched a new dedicated beauty section with coverage focused on "the expanding definition of beauty." In April 2021, CNN Style launched a new series called 'Hyphenated' exploring complex issues of identity amon...
Oct 06, 2021•39 min•Ep. 31
This episode is a conversation with Icon American celebrity hairdresser Ted Gibson who is known for his couture hair both on the runways and in magazines including Vanity Fair, Elle, Harper's Bazaar, In Style, Vogue, WWD, and Allure. Ted's long list of Hollywood clients includes Angelina Jolie, Lupita Nyong'o, Anne Hathaway, Priyanka Chopra and Jessica Chastain, to name a few. Ted along with his husband and colorist Jason Backe opened the World's First Smart Salon in Los Angeles named Starring b...
Sep 22, 2021•55 min•Ep. 30
This episode is a conversation with British-Nigerian Fashion Designer Tokyo James and American-Nigerian Photographer and Creative Director Mikey Oshai who is the man behind the brand's visual imagery. Tokyo's studio is based in Lagos and since the brand's launch in 2015, has taken the fashion world by storm with impeccably tailored designs, strong cultural meaning and intensity of storytelling which is re-defining the modern man with an unapologetic intersectional aesthetic of indivi...
Sep 14, 2021•58 min•Ep. 29
This episode is a conversation with Dr. Carolyn Mair who is a London based author, educator, speaker, consultant, Charted Psychologist and Fellow of the British Psychological Society. In 2012, Dr. Mair developed the Psychology Department at London College of Fashion and created the world's first Psychology for Fashion Masters degrees (MA and MSc). In 2018, Dr. Mair published The Psychology of Fashion. The idea of 'fashion psychology' has now become a growing global phenomenon thanks to the origi...
Sep 08, 2021•44 min•Ep. 28
Season 2 kicks off with a conversation with fashion commentator Hanan Besovic a.k.a the Instagram handle "I Deserve Couture". Hanan holds the self-professed degrees of PhD in meme, Masters in throwing shade, and a minor in fashion. #ideservecouture
Sep 01, 2021•41 min•Ep. 27
This episode is a conversation with Odunayo (Ayo) Ojo, a British-Nigerian, who is a London based fashion wonder boy that has taken the fashion world by storm with his critical point of view rooted in deep research. Ayo's free-thinking perspective has created a fanbase with over 70k subscribers on his YouTube channel-- The Fashion Archives. Currently, Ayo is a BA Fashion Journalism student at Central Saint Martins. He also writes for BOF and has launched his own publication The Fashion Arch...
Aug 04, 2021•31 min•Ep. 26
This episode is a conversation with Dr. Benjamin Wild who is a U.K. based cultural historian specialising in the study of Fancy Dress Costume. Dr. Wild has authored many pieces of work including books A Life in Fashion The Wardrobe of Cecil Beaton (2016) and Carnival to Catwalk: Global Reflections on Fancy Dress Costume (2020). Additionally, he is co-host with Lucy Clayton of the Dress Fancy podcast. Dr. Wild is a Senior Lecturer in Contextual Studies at The Manchester Fashion Institute at Manch...
Jul 28, 2021•39 min•Ep. 25