Discovering Dinant, Belgium's Musical & Adventure Gem - podcast episode cover

Discovering Dinant, Belgium's Musical & Adventure Gem

May 29, 202412 minSeason 2Ep. 11
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Episode description

Kayak to a castle, visit the birthplace of the inventor of the saxophone and use everyday objects to make musical instuments in a fairytale like setting in Dinant, Belgium. This city is a hidden travel gem located in the Ardennes, an area of lush forests and rolling hills. Host Darley Newman takes you on location from the iconic 13th-century Gothic cathedral and the imposing citadel perched high on a cliff to the birthplace of Adolphe Sax, the inventor of the saxophone. Experience the whimsical House of Pataphony and embark on a thrilling kayaking trip down the Lesse River, culminating in a dramatic view of the Gothic Revival Walzin Castle. This podcast episode in Europe offers practical travel tips and advice mixed with a behind the scenes look at how the Emmy Award-winning PBS team films adventure segments, something that’s not always easy from a canoe amid rough waters and hailstorms.
 
Whether you're a lover of history, music, or outdoor activities, Dinant promises to share dreamy European vibes and fantastical fun that flies under the radar. Well worth the visit! Don't forget to follow Darley on social media for real-time updates and more travel adventures @darleynewman on all platforms and @travelswithdarley on Facebook and subscribe to this podcast!

Transcript

If you're looking for a fairytale city in Belgium that's a hidden gem, look no further than Dinant. In Belgium's Ardennes, a lush area of rolling hills and forests that you may have heard about from its history as a battleground during World War I and World War II. Along the banks of the Meuse River and marked by a grand 13th century Gothic cathedral and an imposing high cliff atop which rests the citadel, Dinant could be called European dreamy.

The small city located in French speaking, Wallonia, is worth a visit for lovers of music, whimsy, and those who want to explore in an active way. We're visiting the home of Adolphe Sacks, the creator of the saxophone, a museum that takes everyday objects and makes them into whimsical musical instruments for unique gem sessions. Who creates these? The creator is Max Vandervorst, he's a man who makes shows and music with a strange

instrument. We're going kayaking to a castle on an adventure that involves just a few rapids and a little hail. Spot makes good people. Yeah, makes you hungry. This episode of the Travels with Darley Podcast in Belgium. I like to find hidden gems, places that fly under the radar or haven't even made it into the realm of

radar. And I like to try things that various travelers might want to experience when they explore, which is why so often when I film my long-running PBS and streaming series Travels with Darley, look for it! I like to combine adventure culture history and a whole lot of food and drinks with locals as my guides. Someone's got to do that first-hand research, so I'm excited to give you an introduction to a place you may have heard nothing about. Dinant Belgium. When I first came to the banks

of the Meuse River in Dinant, I was taken aback. The Meuse River cuts the city in two and looking across the river, there's a large outcropping of rocks, a top which sits in this imposing citadel, below the citadel a large cathedral with a unique onion dome, rises high above colorful buildings, lining the quiet river. The citadel has been destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries, and seen many area battles, including in the 15th century by the Duke of Burgundy,

and into World War I and World War II. Today at houses of museum worth a visit, but your orientation may be best by getting up high on the citadel's viewing platform, to take in panoramic views of the valley. You can climb the 16th century staircase or take a cable car. With 408 historic stairs and us carrying our film equipment, we opt for the cable car. Back down below, this is a walkable city for those who like music and jazz. Stroll over to 37

Rue Sachs, the birthplace of Adophe Sachs, the inventor of the Sachsophone. A small interactive museum has been erected here, sharing information about Adolphe's birth in 1814, his later life, and road to inventing the Saxophone in the early 1840s. Adolphe Sax grew up playing the flute and clarinet in a musical family. He also sang. In the museum, I also learned about his family.

His father made musical instruments. The museum is free to visit, and if you're lucky, as I was on my trip, a Sax enthusiast might be playing outside in Saxs' honor. All around, there are tributes to Sax, including large colorful sculptures of Saxophones lining the historic bridge that connects the two sides of the Meuse River. In a city so attuned with music history, it's no wonder that you can find one of the most unusual places I've visited

on my travels. For lovers of music and creativity, in this multi-level space, called the House of Pataphony, you can expand your mind making music with everyday objects and recycled materials. This is a state of Pataphonie and we make here music with strange instruments, like this one. We will play a little song for you if you want. This wildly inventive place was dreamed up by instrument maker Max Vandervorst,

and it's great for adults and kids. I enter a room where two docents are using spare tires, pipes, silverware keys, and other found goods to play music. Hey! Awesome! Yeah, there's so many things in here, I don't even know what to try first. I give you that, perhaps this lullaby? It's a lullaby. Yeah, it's a French one. The two offer to play me a lullaby, with what looks like a makeshift pinball machine. Interesting. This is so creative.

So you got a bicycle pump? Using a tire pump, a ball is shot up into a pipe and ricochets down through old plastic bottles and pipes. To make for one of the most interesting lullabies I have heard. I love it. It's called la melodie Who creates these? The creator is Max Vandervorst. He's a man who makes shows and music with a strange instruments like this one. This museum is really to get you thinking in a different way. Yeah, and hearing some different sounds

to see different instruments, you know, we can try to play. We want to play something. Sure, yeah, yeah, why not? My guides continue to serenade me with a song before letting me play along too. It's like jazz, you're like, we kind of try to jive in and out together. It's improvisation. So what do we get to name our band? Oh, apparently the amazing pataphonie. But you guys already have a band, so I don't know if I'm up to joining just yet, but you know,

give me a little more time here. Yeah, okay. And you have another horseback riding, mountain biking, climbing and kayaking are all popular activities in the Ardennes. Not far from the city center, I'm taking to the water on the nearby Lesse with Olivier Pitance who runs an adventure company which was started as small family business by his parents and has grown. I'm not an expert kayaker, but Olivier is going to join us for this trip. I do a lot of adventure activities, I'm always

explicit about my level of fitness. And I usually downgrade my abilities when we're filming because it's kind of difficult to film and also do an activity. We've been filming this series for a while, but we know once we get out on a water activity, sometimes there's no turning back, especially when you're heading down a river. But I'm assured by Olivier that this activity will be tame. So we're going

out in kayaks and Greg and my camera assistant, they'll be in their own canoe. Pateling was some very expensive film equipment that we don't want to submerge in water. This can make filming a bit of a challenge, especially when none of us are experts, but most especially when the weather takes a turn. We're heading down this gorgeous, less river. It's quiet, it's peaceful. Most of the trip we're relaxing, floating, chatting, trying to get the filming in, but then we have the misfortune

of being caught in a hailstorm. Well, you can certainly have all four seasons in one day here. Fourcing us to paddle hard to find temporary shelter. Got a little white water down here. It's very natural river. So then you can be right and if it's raining, the level of the water can be higher of one meter. Is there anywhere I should avoid? That should I avoid that? You have to pedal

right to go left. Okay, our goal had been to reach this Gothic revival castle. Walzon castle. It's one of the largest castles in Belgium and it's been made famous in the past by drawings by Victor Hugo. After braving the elements and waiting for a bit of time along the side of the river and getting cold and wet, being pummeled by hail, it's a bit of a lot to continue down, but we make it and from the distance I can see this 13th century castle. It's dramatically perched atop a large

rocky outcropping alongside the river. It's a little bit of a game of thrones feel here. I'm surprised at this point that my camera crew still hasn't turned over in the water because they've had a few instances and the tensions are running a little bit high with our crew. But Greg, my director of photography, he's quite balanced. He's been skiing with limpy and johnny moseley and filmed walskiing backwards. He's been on horseback in the Canadian Rockies with a camera and brave glaciers

in Iceland. But this next challenge on the river here in Belgium, where two dams collided the base of the castle. Spot makes good people. Yeah, makes you hungry. It gets a little hairy for a saw. And the same place than me. Oh, we're going down there. But we push on from the final challenge, because we kind of have to at this point, we're going down an area of rapids which sends my kayak sideways and I almost paddle, paddle, over, but I stay afloat. Not for beginners.

You're testing me out today, Olivia. My baseball cap shields me from the mist and the sprinkles of more rain. And I look up to see one of the prettiest castles I've ever seen. Now this is a castle that's hard to see other ways because it is privately owned. So being on the river is one of the best ways to see it. And I would recommend this adventure. It's definitely worth it. All right. It's just another adventure. I'm glad to share going off the beaten path to discover

inspiration in an area not so well known to so many travelers. But one that can expand your mind and your muscles. It's the Travels with Darley Podcasts and TV series. And if you haven't already, please also follow me here and on social media @DarleyNewman on all the platforms and @travelswithdarley on Facebook. I post in real time for my travels where we're out now filming and recording new content

with this podcast in my TV series. And if you have somewhere you want to learn about out there in the world, please let me know because I want to discover it too.

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