The Testpiece Podcast - podcast cover

The Testpiece Podcast

A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.

Hosted by Joshua Horsley.

Episodes

#36 -- Grades Matter

Are grades subjective? What exactly do grades represent, and what don’t they represent? How do climbs get their grades anyways? What is the hardest move ever done and how are hard moves related to the actual grade of the climb? Tim and Josh go deep on grades because, let’s face it, grades matter and climbing needs them. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Feb 27, 20231 hr 52 minEp. 36

#35 -- Bodyweight Optimization and Cutting Edge Tech

Josh brings Coach Andy ( @coachandytollefson on Instagram) back on to talk about figuring out your optimal bodyweight for climbing and how weightlifting may or may not fit into obtaining that weight. Then they go on to discuss some cutting edge technologies that could be used to help you train more and recover faster including BPC-157, Red Light Therapy, and using a “Cool Mitt”. WARNING: This pod goes into some subjects that can be sensitive for some listeners because they include discussions ar...

Feb 21, 20232 hr 12 minEp. 35

#34 -- Pursuing Mastery with Tim & Coach Andy

Tim and his S&C Coach, Andy, discuss the pursuit of mastery in climbing. What that means and what that looks like day to day. You can find Andy on Instagram @coachandytollefson . Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Feb 14, 20231 hr 21 minEp. 34

#33 -- Coach Andy Tollefson

Tim’s Strength and Conditioning Coach, Andy Tollefson, joins Tim and Josh. Andy is a climber and coach based out of SLC who is a certified Strength and Condition Specialist and graduated with a BS in Exercise Science. They talked about everything from injury prevention in climbing, what Tim / Josh got wrong in the “Pumping Iron” episode, and some of the cutting edge supplements that Andy thinks may become a mainstay for elite climbers. This episode is packed with tips that you can instantly appl...

Feb 06, 20231 hr 38 minEp. 33

#32 -- Pumping Iron for Climbing?

Tim and Josh discuss weightlifting and climbing. What is weightlifting vs calisthenics vs prehab? Is it necessary? Who might benefit? Who might not? Josh’s recommendation: Hangboarding + ‘Perfect’ Pull-ups + Pistols or Jumping is all 95% of people need. Frequency and quality over quantity. Do these often, and do them right. Sets and reps aren’t as important as intention and quality. Tim’s recommendation: Muscle-Ups + Toes-to-Bar + Hangboarding. Heavy weightlifting can teach you how to dial up li...

Jan 30, 20232 hr 5 minEp. 32

#31 -- Supplements and Climbing

Tim and Josh talk about how they use supplements before, during, and after climbing to improve performance and recovery. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Jan 23, 20231 hr 26 minEp. 31

#30 -- Footwork and Shoe Choice

Tim and Josh get into the minutiae of footwork and shoe choice. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Jan 16, 20231 hr 54 minEp. 30

#29 -- Reviews of '22 and Predictions for '23

Tim and Josh reflect on what stood out as the biggest themes in the 2022 climbing year and then they make predictions for what they think will be the biggest themes in 2023. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Jan 09, 20231 hr 23 minEp. 29

#28 -- Tim's Best Day

Tim did it! He sent his longtime project — a link up of 5 highball testpieces in Bishop. All in 1 day. Footprints (V9), Ambrosia (V11), Too Big To Flail (V10), This Side of Paradise (V10), and Evilution Direct (V11). Epic. In this pod we go behind the scenes and learn about the reality of what it took to put this together. Tim doesn’t hold anything back and talks about what it was like to risk his life for this linkup. Thanks to Black Diamond for supporting Tim on this goal. Keep an eye out for ...

Dec 20, 20221 hr 21 minEp. 28

#27 -- What is 'Comp Style'?

Tim and Josh tackle a few listener questions with the main focus being on "What is ‘Comp Style’?" Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Dec 14, 20221 hr 40 minEp. 27

#26 -- BISHOP!

Bishop is one of Tim and Josh's favorite places on Earth. Tim was there while recording the pod so they decided to go deep on what makes Bishop one of the best places to climb in the world. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Dec 02, 20221 hr 45 minEp. 26

#25 -- Nationals, Adventure, The Meta

Tim shares his experience at Lead Nationals. Spoiler alert -- he placed well! Then Tim and Josh talk about what Adventure means in climbing and why it’s so important. This leads them into The Meta of climbing and how to excel in it, or anything, over the long term. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Nov 21, 20221 hr 36 minEp. 25

#24 -- Maxim Zolotukhin, Aesthetics

Tim and Josh are joined by Maxim Zolotukhin, a legendary climber and setter that's been at it for over two decades. They discuss aesthetics, setting, competitions in this wide ranging conversation about all things climbing. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Nov 14, 20221 hr 34 minEp. 24

#23 -- Preparing for Nationals

Nationals is coming up on November 9th. This is an important comp for Tim that will likely set the tone for his following year. Tim and Josh dive into the training Tim is doing leading up to it and how he's handling the pressure. Mentioned in the podcast: The Art of Learning by Joshua Waitzkin Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Nov 02, 20221 hr 21 minEp. 23

#22 -- Modern Climbing Gyms

Josh and Tim use a recent article from Climbing Magazine to talk about modern climbing gyms. Josh goes into a few rants about how great climbing gyms have become and argues against getting stuck in nostalgia. Tim keeps it positive and adds insight as a competitive climber. Link to the article "Opinion: Modern Gyms are Failing Outdoor Climbers: https://www.climbing.com/places/opinion-modern-gyms-fail-outdoor-climbers/ Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE ...

Oct 26, 20221 hr 27 minEp. 22

#21 -- Moonboard Deep Dive

Josh and Tim go deep on the Moonboard! PS — The Jerry Moffat book mentioned in the pod is “Revelations”. Go read it! Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Oct 19, 20221 hr 16 minEp. 21

#20 -- Balancing Outdoors, Indoors, and Boards

Josh and Tim start off by reflecting on the previous pod with Ethan. Tim also talks a bit about the Red and his recent experience at Rocktoberfest. Then they get to the main event. A great listener question on how to balance your time climbing between the outdoors, the indoors, and boards. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Oct 16, 20221 hr 31 minEp. 20

#19 -- Ethan Pringle, The Jaw/Jah

Ethan Pringle hopped on the pod with Tim and Josh! Ethan’s been at the cutting edge of climbing for decades. He shares what climbing was like when he started and how it has shaped his style and psyche. Don't miss this one. Check our Instagram, @testpiececlimbing, for pictures of Josh's feature on a JCCA poster, and Ethan on La Hostia. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Oct 07, 20221 hr 39 minEp. 19

#18 -- Reframing Volume + Skin Q&A

Josh's pro-tip revolves around the idea of what is an appropriate amount of volume for climbers which leads Tim and Josh into a deeper discussion than expected. Then they transition into a listener question regarding best practices for skin care. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Sep 29, 20221 hr 19 minEp. 18

#17 -- Success at NACS

Tim and Josh start off by talking about their limited experience with trad climbing. Then they dive into Tim's success at his latest comp, a NACS sport comp in Gilbert, AZ ,where he placed second. Can Tim keep up this hot streak going into Nationals? Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Sep 22, 20221 hr 39 minEp. 17

#16 -- Etiquette, Grades, and Q&A

Tim and Josh start off with some rants about climbing etiquette and grades. Then they tackle a great listener question. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Sep 16, 20221 hr 17 minEp. 16

#15 -- Board Climbing as a Training Tool

Tim and Josh go deep on board climbing and the different ways it fits into their climbing routines. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Sep 11, 20221 hr 29 minEp. 15

#14 -- Quantitative vs Qualitative

Josh and Tim start off by reminiscing about setting and what's actually going on behind the scenes. Then they dive into a topic Dave MacLeod raised in a recent YouTube video "Can you quantify climbing technique?" . PS -- What do you think was the error Dave made when he was climbing at the 3 minute mark? Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Sep 02, 20221 hr 52 minEp. 14

#13 -- Supplementation, Jackalope, Alphane

Tim and Josh start off by accidentally going down the rabbit hole of supplementation and their ‘stacks’ to perform and recover well. Then Tim talks about his latest competition, Jackalope, and how it went compared to his previous 3 bouldering wins. The pod finishes with a super fun discussion centered on the new Mellow climbing video “Alphane” where Shawn Raboutou does a new V17/9A. Grades and training, or lack thereof, is the focus. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast...

Aug 26, 20221 hr 47 minEp. 13

#12 -- Success Begets Success + Q&A

Tim talks about his latest winning streak and what's changed. Then Josh and Tim tackle some excellent listener questions. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Aug 18, 20221 hr 30 minEp. 12

#11 -- And We're Back!

Josh and Tim are back after Josh's paternity leave. They had way too much to talk about because of the long break but they focus is on Tim's Black Diamond team trip to Lander, WY and what Tim learned while coaching at a 2 week long intensive training camp at Stone Summit in Atlanta, GA. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

Jul 29, 20221 hr 15 minEp. 11

#10 -- Listener Q&A and the SLsCene

Josh and Tim cover some great questions submitted by a listener. They also discuss how SLC has become the new “place to be” if you are a serious climber. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE...

May 27, 20221 hr 19 minEp. 10

#9 -- Modeling, Highballs, and Meiringin

Tim just got back from being a male model in Bishop and he gives us the behind the scenes on what it’s like to do a pro photoshoot. Tim also tell us more about the steps he’s taking on his Big 5 Highball linkup in Bishop. Josh and Tim finish the pod by discussing the latest worldcup that happened in Meiringien. The was the first bouldering worldcup of the season and it did not disappoint! Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: H...

Apr 25, 20221 hr 38 minEp. 9

#8 -- The Wall: Climb for Gold

Josh and Tim talk about the recent climbing movie The Wall: Climb for Gold. This feature length film follows Brooke Raboutou, Janja Garnbret, Miho Nonaka, and Shauna Coxsey on their journey to the Olympics. Climbing entering the Olympics is a huge deal for the sport and Tim and Josh discuss what it’s like to see climbing on the ultimate competitive stage. Somehow this leads to tons of tangents with discussions on deep water soloing, highballs, and what role danger plays in climbing. Watch “The W...

Apr 15, 20221 hr 33 minEp. 8

#7 -- Al Rangel, A Coach's Mind

This one's a banger! Al Rangel recently set out on his own to start Class 5, a competitive team based in Southern, CA. Al is one of the best climbing coaches in America, if not the world, and chances are you’ve worked with him if you are a competitor. In this episode Al shows us how he thinks about creating the best athletes possible. You will get an inside look into how national champions train and where competitions are going. Al didn’t hold anything back in this episode and you can hear ...

Apr 07, 20221 hr 47 minEp. 7
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