You're listening to the Resident build Up podcast with Peter Wolfcamp from News Talks at Bay.
A house is a hole, even when it starts, even when the grass is overgrown in the yard, and even when the dog is too old to barrow, and when you're sitting at the table trying to start have scissor hole, even when we move a band, even when you're there alone. A house is a hole, even when those goes, even when you got around from the ones you love your most stream, those broken plaints, feeling from the wood.
Locals visible when they're gone leaving the.
House, even when we'll then, even when you're very.
Long and a very very good morning, and welcome along to the Resident Builder on Sunday. Just coming up for eight minutes after six on what was proving to be a very lovely Sunday. It was a beautiful, beautiful glimpse of a sunrise that I saw on my way in this morning. Pretty spectacular moon with the clouds last night as well, high tide late in the evenings. It's all
sounding pretty good. So if you've got a project that is underway that you would like to talk about, discuss, argue, maybe have a bit of a debate about which products, which methodology, how to find good trades people, how to keep things on bud. All things construction and building related we can talk about on the show this morning, as we always do here at news Talk s HEDB on a Sunday morning. Very good morning. My name's Peak wolf Camp, the resident builder, and this is a show all about
your place. So if like me, you had a couple of little projects on during the course of the week, or you've got a couple little lined up for the weak ahead. Now I'm going to say I'm going to be doing vapor barrier. This is part of Healthy Homes Compliance on a project this week, But that would only
be partly true. To be fair, I have a couple of guys coming to help me to do vapor barrier, and I suspect that I'll be really honest, they will spend more time crawling around under this particular unit than I might be. I am, therefore supervision, coordination, management and oversight rather than I've done my dash. I think crawling
around underneath houses, I will probably be in there. We've got to clear out the space, We've got a level air off, We're going to install a vapor barrier down there's already under floor insulation that's been done on this particular property, and then we'll have a bit of a tidy up under there. Because it's amazing what ends up under the house, isn't it.
You know?
Typically it becomes the storage space in a flash way of looking at it. But typically it's just a dumping ground for stuff that you couldn't be bothered taking down to the tip. Or if you are like me, and there will be many who are for our sins, it'll be old need that one day. There will be that piece of timber, there will be that offcut, there will be I've put underneath the house the other day, like one quarter of a bag of pea straw. Now, why didn't I just use it up right? Oh no, no, no,
I might be able to use that later on. I just pop down underneath the house with the half a bag of sap seven probably an old bag of cement that's rock solid by now, But it's all underneath the saying that the other day someone did say to me, look, we've got this little repair. I need a particular type of molding, and what they call an eve's molding, which looks like a bit of quarter around with a square edge on it. It's a typical sort of villa detail.
We've just got a little rotten bit of that right at the end of the eve. Do you know where I can get it? And I was like, oh, stand by caller, straight underneath the house and there it was a piece that I had left over from a job from oh, I don't know, fifteen twenty years ago, but hey, I used it up and felt pretty good about that
as well. So if you've got a little building project that is going on that you'd like to talk about, or a big building project that you'd like to talk about, or perhaps you'd like to talk about compliance and regulation, we can do all of that on the show this morning. If you have any particular painting questions, one of our painting experts, which is Bryce McDermott, regular contributor to the show,
will be available from seven twenty this morning. So if you've got any specific text text those questions through any painting questions, I've got a a couple little lined up as well. I want to have a we look and think about the whether to go water borne enamel or oil born or solvent born enamels for exterior joinery again in an area that they just get. You know, it's north facing, right, it's timber, and it's north facing. It's going to move, it's going to crack. Which paint is
the most suitable? So old Dash in there first, unless you beat me to it by sending a couple of texts about painting questions for Bryce, our painting expert from Razine at around seven twenty this morning. As always, we have tracked down a red Cline pass who is on the road this morning. He will be joining us at eight point thirty this morning. If you've got a building question though, and we always get busy a bit later in the show, so now is a great time to call.
Eight hundred eighty ten eighty. Is that number? So eight hundred eighty ten eighty. If you'd like to text, the number is nine two nine two ISBZB from your mobile phone. And I've remembered my password for the email, so you can send me an email if you wish. That's Pete at newstalksb dot co dot z. So I trust you've had a good week. If you're back to work, I hope that's going okay. If you're sort of on that kind of part time. I'm sort of working, but I don't mind if I knock off a bit early and
go to the beach. Good on you, and if you've managed to stretch out the summer holidays for another week or congratulations well planned. Oh eight one hundred eighty ten eighty is that number to call? M ah apparently otago this morning, but cloudy, cold and miserable has been since Thursday. Um talking about installation. Come back to that one in a minute. It's a good text. Actually, I want to be ah. I want texts already coming in. I want to build a large garden shed. It's going to need
about one point five cubic meters of concrete. Should I do bags or get a truck in bags? To be fair, bags are great as in premax bags of sand and cement, but for one point five cubic meters you are going to need like a palette and a half of bags. It's interesting to do the numbers whether it would be cheaper at one point five cube. I would go for a truck to be fair, and there's a couple of benefits. One is I think you'll probably find that it's better
mixed in a truck. Than it is. You're doing it in a wheelbarrow by hand, with a whole bunch of bags. Dollars wise, I would say possibly be even a little bit cheaper. I think minimum load charges, so you get a small load fee from ready mixed suppliers. So if you're buying, like if you do point eight of a cubic meter, there will be the point eight of a
cubic meter of concrete plus a small load chart. I think at one point five meters you probably missed that, And if you did want to do it yourself, then I would actually go for builders mixed bags of cement and hire a mixer. Go down to higher Paul, grab yourself a mixer and do it that way. I've done
that couple of times. In fact, my first ever job, my first day of my first job building for my first boss, was on a Saturday morning of a public holiday, and he wasn't aware that the ready mixed plant was going to close on a Saturday of a public holiday of long weekend, so he straight when he found out.
On Friday, he rang ordered six cubic meters of builders mix BM twenty and thirty six bags of cement and got his ratley old concrete mixer out and when I arrived on Saturday morning, it was like, Hi, this is what we're doing today. So six cubic meters through a concrete mixer. I can tell you it takes a while. It is fifteen minutes after six. A very good morning, and welcome along to the show. Oh eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number to call. Other great
text about Limb. Report's got a story about that in just a moment before we'll talk to Chad first. Good morning Chad, Yeah, morning, and to you, to you.
Excellent mete Just you've probably had this one hundred times over your career, of a thousand times, boundary fences between between two sections. I just want to know if someone builds offence right and they don't get your permission, you know, because I think you've got to get well, there's got to be some comms between the two parties. I'm sure of it, whether it's written or verbal. Just what's the story like if we turn up to our place for
there's a new fence for between the two properties. The old fence has been removed and a new meat defense has been put up for one point.
Nine, which is hate some few because you don't have to do anything. Is it? Is it a halfway decent fence?
Does it look Okay, it's just it's just not not what how we wanted it.
Yeah, sure, it's it's macrocarpa. And it's like and it starts drying out like they've already done another section around the back. When that timber starts drawing, obviously that the gap in the ends, you know, you can slide your slide your fingers.
Through it, gotcha, yep.
And then then we found out once they paid for their fence, we can't do anything with it, like we can't put a you know, like a decorative panel on it or or one of those pulled out clothes lines or anything because they paid for it.
I don't know about that. That's an interesting one. Okay. So yeah, late last year, after a little while of trying, I managed to get a lawyer on the program who's a property law expert in Johnson came and join us, which was awesome. He's going to come back because we had a lot more to talk about. So, and what we were specifically talking about is the Fencing Act. So Fencing Act is quite clear if you are going to
seek a contribution from a neighbor. You can only get that if you inform the neighbor beforehand, so you have to send a letter, you have to quote the Fencing Act, you have to provide some estimates of the cost, and then from that you can request a contribution to half the value of a standard fence. Arguably using macrocarpa, which is probably cheaper than more expensive than good old highness radiator,
will mean that they've spent more on the fence. So in terms of you know, if you get a knock on the door and the guy's there going, hey, look yo, us a couple of grand then you are quite within your right side would say to say, I'm sorry you didn't inform me. I'm not going to contribute. Then the other question is exactly where if they put the fence. So it's quite possible that what they've done is put it solely on their side of the boundary, in which
case it very much is their property. I would say if they've split you know, how often if you know, we know that the boundary line is a dead straight or typically a dead straight line, and in some cases you buy agreement with the neighbor, you can share that and put half the post half the fence on each side. So you know, if that was the case and part of the fence was on your side, again, it would have been good if they had to talk to you about that. But I would say, then you do own
that side of the fence. If, however, the fence is solely on their property, you're right. You fixing some trellis or a pop up washing line, you probably can't do that without the permission of the neighbor. And they may say no.
But if it's if it's fifty fifty like on the boundary, yep, if they haven't done it on their boundary, on their side of the boundary, it's a fifty fifty split.
Wow, Well then then it's on your property, right, it's yours.
Story, yeah, Roger.
So then you have that argument like, you know, shit, we don't actually like that fence. We would have preferred a fence.
So, yes, that's right.
In that regard, it just turns into a shootout and like, legally, can I make them remove that fence?
Fet and your view again?
And I you know, obviously if you wanted to go and confront them, you'd want to go and seek legal advice. But I would have thought that if they have gone ahead and built a fence and it is partly on your property, you could ask them to remove that part
because you haven't given your consent to that. Yeah, you know, and I've seen plenty of situations where you know, neighbors, for whatever reason right have decided not to consult with the impacted party and have just gone ahead built a new fence and they've done it, you know, fifty millimeters
one hundred milimeters inside the property. I saw a weird one little while ago where they'd built like a meter inside because there was a whole lot of trees they couldn't be bothered taking, and they've just accepted, I'll lose a bit of land and I'll just put my fence where I want it to be, right, so I think of it. But if it's clearly and if the boundaries are clearly defined, then if it's on your side, then
basically you own that. But but you know, hopefully these sorts of things can be discussed and you come to a reasonable adult sort of decision or reconciliation around it. But I think we've all been around long enough to know that not everyone acts rationally in these situations and people fall out over the silliest of things. Yeah, exactly, you know what I mean.
Yeah, yeah, yeah, thanks for that.
Enjoy, look after yourself, take care of Chad. See bye. Eight hundred eighty ten eighty. If you've got a question, just before we go to our next caller, which is Paul, we've got some spare lines, so good time to call now eight hundred eighty ten eighty quick text that's come through A good morning peak. Do you always need to get a limb report when buying a house? What is
actually in a limb report? So from Gordon Gordon, I would say that it would be the very least piece of due diligence that either you or your lawyer who's acting for the on the conveyancing side of things, would do. And so there's a limb is of land information memorandum. Typically it tells you a whole lot of things about the area on which you're buying. You know, are there particular natural hazards? Are you, for example, in a flood zone?
What are the planning overlays? Are you in a heritage zone? Are you in a zone where development and planning restricts? The number of dwellings that could be put on the property. It might give you some indication as to where public services like storm water and waste water are. So yeah, I think it's not difficult to do. I think it's absolutely worth getting a LIMB report. There is also a pym SO Property Information Report that might give you a
bit more detail on a specific property. And if you're really really wanting to sort of dig into it, you can ring council and request the property file, which is everything that any correspondence, any documentation that council have on that particular property. And I think, again, given the investment that we're talking about, I think that's worth doing as well.
The other thing. Can I quickly add that I have spent quite a bit of time this well, sometime this week and over the last year and more, quite a bit of time trying to sort out a building consent that didn't get CCC right. So a building consent was issued for a project for whatever reason, the previous owner of the property didn't close out that consent by having a final inspection and then applying forum being granted a
code compliance certificate. It then got on sold to someone who I'm acting for, who discovered later on that this building hadn't been issued at CCC and wanted to get that tidied up. So you know, if that's on the limb, then that's a really good thing to know because having worked on it quite considerably for quite some time, it can be a lot of work to get that sorted out, and in some cases it's actually not possible to get sorted out. Council will not issue a CCC in some cases.
Then you have to go through a process of a certificate of acceptance that is also a truckload of work in most cases. So yeah, if you're looking at a property, get the limb and if that then happens to also say hey, here's a building consent there was issued that
required a CCC. So building permits back in the day pre nineteen ninety two thereabouts didn't require a CCC, but anything since then under the New Building Act does require a SECC to close out a building consent, you want one of those, I can assure you, having spent a lot of time and effort to try and sort that out, and that's a work in progress for me. So that's what occupies part of my day. It is six twenty five will take short breaking back with Paul if you'd
like to join us. Love to hear from you. Oh, eight hundred eighty ten eighty the number to call you and new stalks, you'd be really good. Texts coming in about multi unit developments in H one and so on. We'll get into that in just a moment, but Paul, thank you for waiting in a very good morning to.
You, and good morning to you too. Water hammer, Yeah, yeah, it's lovely. I recently replaced a handbasin in our own suite and replace the two taps so they mix her yep. And now if you shut the cold water off too quickly, you get the knock in one of the pipes. Yes, I've been up in the roof and my wife's downstairs turning on and off taps all over the place. And the washing machine with the quick solin word valves does it. I tried an arrestor on the cold tap in the new handbasin.
Right, what's the what does the arrestor do or what do you think it's going to do?
Well that you put that on the back of the say cold water, then let until they hand based on the washing machine and it's like a shock absorber when you when you shut the cold off quickly or the washing machine, it absorbs the back pressure. Gotcha, and that hasn't worked. This might be a simple question, but is there a correct procedure to train the water out of
all the pipes in your house? You're trying to eliminate air by turning the mains off, training the water from the highest tap in the house, Yes, which which is only the washing machine outlet because they're bar up on the wall, and I stick out to the lowest line, which is the garden hose. Then turn the round all the water out of the house, turn the mains back on, ran all the taps and you can hear the air
spurting out of them. Yes, you know, for the life of me, I can't get rid of this water hammer. It's just a single knock. We neither the washing machine or that the mixer on the two handbasin get to shut off quickly.
Right, Okay, So there might be two things happening. One is you've obviously gone through all of the sort of response to water hammer in terms of the amount of flow and so on. The other thing that can happen is that if you look at sort of modern practice. Let's say plumbers when they drill through my precious knogs
and studs to put in their pipework. They will typically then once they've done all the pipe work and got everything sort doubt before the lining happens, go round with a corking gun and a bee and some silicon and seal around each of those penetrations, right, and that stops the actual physical pipe from moving and hitting the timber. Now that's a relative relatively new, probably in the last
ten or fifteen years. But let's say, for example, you might have an old copper pipe that's running down the wall that probably won't have any ceilant around it. So copper pipes tended just to run straight through the knogs. They might in some cases I've seen they've got like a little copper clip that they'd fasten around them, but often cases not. So you've got maybe a twenty mili
hole and a fifteen mil copper pipe. And if over time that's become a little bit loose, and as the pressure, regardless whether there's air in the line or not, comes on and off, it's enough just to move that pipe in the same way that you know yesterdayl's in the garden, rolled out the hose, turn the hose on. You can see the hose move right move.
Yeah.
So if you can identify the exact location of where the knock is coming from, and if it's consistently in the same place, it might be an issue of the pipe knocking against the hole of the timber in the hole that it goes.
Through itself located that it's in the back of the on suite, yeah, cabinet, and then.
The realistically the only option is cutting out a bit of the plaster board, having a look and see if that's where it is, and then you know, using the appropriate ceilant to just effectively provide a shock absorber around it.
Prapped and yep, the pipes up there in the ceiling. And it was a night there trying to find there's just so much criss cross of pipes.
Well, I think what it is is often, you know, at the beginning of a house's life, all of the pipework might get laid out neatly with some order maine, I've got some feeds coming off and that sort of thing, and then things change and people cut into a pipe and run another line and that sort of thing, and that that can actually, you know, to the uninitiated, and I include myself and here, plumbers you know, have have a clear idea of what's going to work in terms
of the most efficient way to distribute water throughout the house, and then later on other people interfere with that and that has untend into consequences as well.
Yeah see, I don't think anyone's into feed up there, but yeah, with a lady piping, I think you might have had a couple of beers before him. Oh yeah, and my wife is going crazy turn that on, beer, turn that off, and.
It's incredibly frustrating. The other option is to maybe put in a pressure reducing valve at the end of the water main coming into the house. That's almost got to do that.
Yeah, okay, good, So it's either air in there or it's because it only happened since I put this mixer in there. Right of course, it won't do it on any single taps because you're slowly turning them off.
Yeah yeah, yeah, it's just with a ceramic disk inside the mixer. It's on or it's off, and that happens quite quickly. Try try see if you can identify if it sounds like it's coming from a location in the wall, then maybe you just have to cut that open and seal around there and you might find it's the pipe knocking.
Yeah, yeah, good luck.
All right, Yeah, good luck is about as good as I can do today. All right, take care bother then you and New Storks b quick text that's come through. Pete has a comment that I read any comment from you from David and the quote the comment is multi unit residential still high, but that is Spec H one environmental development levies pushing cost up. There is still value to be found, but you need the right team cite
and design. Too many consultants on exorbitant rates, trying to make design, two complex council planners on power trips asking for subjective RFI s. Yeah, probably wouldn't completely disagree with you on that. I think that. I mean, look, everybody
deserves a living right without a doubt. But you know, in terms of developments, you know, there was an article I think probably last quarter of last year of a gentleman out in the way Tackles in Auckland who wanted to i think, add another unit to a section that he already owned, a property that he already owned, and One of the things he was expected to do was get an ecologist to come in and do a survey of the skink population and then to provide monitoring I
think of said skinks, and also I think to provide I know, for another case, we're a developer was asked to provide a methodology of what to do when they encounter a skink in the event that, you know, they see one when the diggers working or something like that. I'm all for protecting the environment, I really really am, but I think there has been some large es with this sort of thing that should come to an end. So, yeah,
I get it, h one, We've been through this. Yeah, it may add cost, and if it does, I think that's a cost that we should bear. To be blunt and in some cases, the hysteria around you know, the quotes that were out there saying, oh, it's added fifty thousand dollars to the cost of a New Zealand house has been proven to be untrue in some cases. So Malcolm Fleming, who's the chief executive of New Zealand Certified Builders, he was a guest last year on the show when
this discussion was taking place. They went out and they grabbed a fairly standard ninety square meter building and I think one hundred and forty square meter building. They did a quantity surveying of it, going okay, if we apply the new H one standards, but we don't use the schedule method. We do the calculation method, what's our additional cost?
And one case they were saving money, in another case they were basically spending you know, might be two thousand dollars added to the cost of the building to comply with the H one. So I don't go round blaming H one. Oh eight, one hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call and tippery good morning to you.
Oh yeah, I'm just bringing up uh yeah. I had a bit of a party used today.
Uh.
I worked with the guys, got really drunk. He ended up hating his hit. Put it in the hole through the war because he'd been through the war I made. He was okay the next morning, but the war.
Wasn't second based.
Yeah, I would beat it with just basic tools. The whole what I did was I got a piece of paper, the normal paper, apaper, yeah, newspaper I made. I squeared it off, Yeah, I taped it. Take that and then what happened was I would say lucky to have paint white paint and uh. But but what I did was I putsy decides. You know, I would say lucky to have putsy puts the sides of the tape and did I What I did was as the potsy dried, I set paper. It lived with the puddy with the wall,
and did I win over with white paint? And look it was back to brand news, you know.
Yeah, yeah, Look, with the grocer respect, I suspect that any property management or anyone with some building knowledge will will see that repair from about a million miles away. And I respect what you're saying. I'm sure you think you work is great. Again, with the grocer respect, I'm pretty sure that if I walked in, I would that would be the first thing that I would see. And it's not going to last long. And good luck getting that past the well. Hopefully you're the owner of the property.
Only you've got to worry about the quality of the repair. Good luck. Eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call that you go. That'll to the greatest hits of DIY. It is coming up twenty minutes away from seven. We've got a spare line. Love to hear from you. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call helping.
You get those DIY projects done right. The resident builder with Peter wolfcap and light four solar a less of power. In twenty twenty five news.
Talks it B You and You Stalk Seid b quick text as well. Pete had a This is referring back to Paul's issue with water hammer. Hey, Pete had this problem on a two story house. Was a simple worn tap washer that was allowing air to be drawn back into the pipe on the second floor, creating the air ram. So it's if the problem what you're saying, I think is that if the problems downstairs, it might be an
upstairs tap that is contributing to the issue. Someone else helpfully has suggested, we had that knocking in my father's house, turned the mains off, sorted it completely. Yes, very good, very droll A water hammer arresta as close as you can to the noise. I think that is what Paul has already done by adding one close to the tap that he's put in. Good morning, Can you build a shed that is both L one and L two? I'd like to build a three door American style barn with
living quarters on the side. I'm not sure what the reference to L one, Ally one or ALLY two is. If you can see me a bit more information, Chris, that would be helpful. That's great. Tell him to change the mixer to a high quality unit that will always fix the water hammer. Maybe it is a high quality unit, Mariana Pete. Can a neighbor cover my toby, which he
says is on his land? No, I wouldn't have thought so in a sent Well, see, the toby is actually owned by either the council or in Auckland's case, water Care, So no, I don't think that you can go ahead and cover that. And if it was on the land, it's still an asset that's not owned by the property owner. So if you've ever had a leak, for example, if it's on your side of the toby, it's your responsibility.
If it's on at the toby or on the pipe that comes in from the mains to the toby, we're talking about the water meter right out on the roadway, then that becomes the issue for the council basically to deal with. And someone thinks that I'm on the right track with the skinks. Can I please be absolutely clear about this. I am all for environmental protection right if there are threatened species, if there is a particular sensitivity around an area, then I think we need to do
everything we can to protect that. I just get the feeling that that has extended a little bit beyond what is reasonable. Oh wait, one hundred eighty ten eighty the number to call ray good morning to you.
Good morning a awesome show. Think of it regarding building consent outstanding, So I'll go to the end of it. This could be quite useful for listeners. I've just finished a small planes process at the local court. We went to sell our property building consent with outstanding. Won't go to the detail, but our lawyer didn't pick it up.
The agents that were selling properly picked it up.
Had to spend a lot of money on getting that building consent. Like you say, it takes a lot of step. It was tens of thousands of dollars. Won't go into the nitty gritty of it, but the file was good enough to show that the people previously to us had corresponds with council. Council said, hey, building consent has not
been completed. They did go a little ways to getting that building conceived, that fleasy, but they hadn't completed it, got letters on file showing they've been contacted, they didn't doing about it, and I won and I was warded basically the cost of the work I had to do to get it up to standard. And it was a let prospective building consent and got tens of thousands of dollars out of.
It, which is fascinating, but that's not I just want to be really clear on this. The fact that you were able to sue someone effectively for damages and is that it was a mistake on the part of in this case, your lawyer at the conveyancing that they didn't pick it up and it's fair and reasonable to expect that they would have found what's quite straightforward information, right. And so this discussion starts with should I get a
LIMB report. I was reading through a LIMB report a little while ago, and typically it gives you a bit of a property information and then it goes building consents. Right, we'll talk about building permits if it's got one from nineteen fifty six for an outhouse or nineteen thirty six for a you know, an addition to a property whatever, or a garage that was built in the nineteen sixties.
All of those sorts of things will have a building permit and then it will say no CCC and then it says in the notes not required because it's before such and such a time. Once we moved to building consents, then building consents required. The final part of building consent is to get a CCC code compliance certificate. So I think your claim wouldn't have been against counsel or against the previous only was your claim against your lawyer for not packing that up.
No, and there was no way to get that against lawyer. So basically under your Salem purchase agreement, as a vendor warranty, this is the great part, right, and that inside there that talk about the the owner warrants that they have no outstanding building events. And that's where we got it. So it was a breach of contract on the sale features agreement. Gotcha, And it's really really interesting, it's worth honestly, we.
Yeah, again, Ray, that would that would only apply if the question was asked and the nature of the contract includes that clause in it, because yeah, okay.
It is a really very important thing. If that is crossed out at any stage during a purchase agreement, then that purchaser needs to be very weird. There's something potentially dodgy and behind it. So it wasn't crossed out right people, I couldn't remember. We're talking ten to twenty years go. But because of the pay Council head on five, very clear they they basically breached the contract under that vendor warranty.
I've got one more question for your Ray. Can you just hold on? We'll get a break out of the way and a come back. It's a very important question back in a moment.
Measure twice, cut once, but maybe call Pead first, Peta Wolfcamp the resident builder with light four solar save power in twenty twenty five and Earn air boinds dollars news talks.
It'd be we've got Ray back with us and Ray. I just wanted to ask, in terms of this particular sale and purchase, was this completed let's say in the last four to five years? Yeah, okay, roughly how long ago? Because the landscape is changing, and you know, if you haven't been involved in the sale and purchase for a while, you'll possibly think that it's like it always was, but it's changed quite a lot, and it's it's changed quite a lot, I think in the last few years. And
I think that's where this has allowed you some redress. Right, So if a vendor states that there's nothing outstanding with the property and all the rest of it, and in this case it sounds like they might have said that because they just weren't fully aware, but it's then in the contract. You're right, you've got redressed through the contract to go, well, you should have known this or you did know and you decided not to tell us, and therefore the cost is yours. Good on you.
Yeah one. And what had happened is that with a garage we had to do a reclaid. There was moisture and that pound. It's all started with council. We've got a new purchaser, got a report, a builder's report that's down moisture. Council came in and then we've kind of process. So it was a reclad on a garage that was ends of thousands of dollars.
Would have been yeah, you.
Know it was wrong. Wasn't one first the above ground.
So I just want to encourage people that if they do come across and at end, Hey, look the lawyer and we're happy with them that now they give us some advice and I did all the process, I would suggest that m no, I won't want.
Yeah no, I get why you might be cautious as well. Hey, thank you very very much for calling and thanks for sticking around. I think that's that's really really good information, and that is yeah, I might you've got a couple of real estate agents who could speak to us quite well and quite independently. You've given me an idea for the show. For a couple of weeks time, we'll will seek to get someone on and just go through this with people because I think, yeah, there's there's a lot
in what you're saying. I really appreciate it, right, thank.
You, that's okay. I just want to say one last thing. The lawyers basically said that that wasn't in this skyde and that was that, So do you.
Go right, Sorry, it wasn't in there this.
Character seed right.
Or not?
That wasn't part of their scope.
That was there.
They're out and proces.
Okay, that's interesting too. I really appreciate it, Ray, and I'm pleased to hear you've got a successful result, Well done, awesome, take care, thank you. We're coming up to new Sport and weather top of the hour at seven o'clock remember at seven twenty. In fact, we haven't it any texts yet if you've got any specific painting questions, and lots of us are doing painting now that the weather is settled and it's this beautiful long day, so text me through your painting questions.
Squeaky door or squeaky floor. Get the right advice from Peter Wolfcare the resident builder with light four Solar dot co dot Insie switched to solar and T twenty five and pay less for power News talks EDB.
Your news talksb Pete off Camp Resident build out with you right through till nine o'clock this morning. We are going to have some painting questions with painting session at around seven twenty five this morning, so Bryce, our painting expert from Razine, will be available to do answer any text questions that come through, and a couple of already come through, which is awesome. If you've got a question,
feel free to text it through. Otherwise we're talking all things building construction and it's kind of you know, home ownership and legislation and regulations and that sort of thing as well, right through at about eight thirty this morning. Then we're into the garden with a klin past who's
on the road. In fact, I think he's in Punakaiki at the moment, but we've tracked him down and he will be available to answer all of your gardening and bug related or entomological questions at around eight thirty this morning, and then we're done for another day here at News TALKSB So jump in if you've got a question of building nature with it's water hammer or it's fencing, or our conversation with Ray just prior to the news there around I mentioned the fact that one of the things
that's sort of on my desk at the moment is helping a client I guess, to resolve an issue where a building consent was issued, work was undertaken, either a final inspection wasn't done, or if it was done, the then owner didn't go through and wrap up all the paperwork by getting the CCC Code compliance certificate sorted out at the end of it, which then some years later and we're talking about a considerable number of years it sits on the council file as a building consent that
doesn't have a CCC, getting one or getting that closed off is typically not a straightforward process, and that's what Ray was talking about. But he had managed to get redress because of the nature of the sale and purchase agreement, and that's all around a duty to declare. I think we might reach out to actually a previous contributor to the show who is a real estate agent who knows a lot about the legal side of a sale and
purchase and get him on the show. So I'll give him a call during the week and we'll talk about that sometime in the next couple of weeks. In the same way that I mentioned, We've got a property expert, property law expert who joined us for the first time last year, looking forward to having him back on the show.
To be fair, if there is a particular expert area that you would like me to sort of investigate or get someone in to speak to, feel free to either text or email and I'll add that to the list. We'll get Hamish back. Hamish Firth from Mount Hobson Group, he's a town planner. We'll get him back on the show without a doubt. We'll get Storm who's our ventilation expert.
This is a whole new field for me. Storm will be back on the show this year, and undoubtedly we'll probably get Mike Thornton, lawyer around construction issues, we'll get him back on the show, so it'll it'll build up, it'll be great. Also, possibly one of the team from Brands is going to join us on the show this year. I'm due for a visit down to Wellington to go through the research laboratory at Brands, so I couldn't quite
make it at the end of last year. It's on my list of things to do at the beginning of this year. So I'll let you know how I get on once we get down there. So plenty on Oh eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number to call, and Ellen a very good morning to you.
Yeah, good morning, great, yeah.
Good, very well in yourself.
Yeah good good.
What's up.
I've been occupied scrape my house down and painting it.
Yep.
And the procedure a window is wind the show is yes, just a little bit underneath the window window itself.
Yep.
It's gone right through in a couple of places. Yeah, step three inches thick, yes, and yeah it's sister sap and take rotted off. What is involved in getting that window show out? Do I have to get the window out?
Yeah?
I mean you can sort of do it in situe, But typically the window does it have any fixed panes, fixed sashes attached to them?
All?
Right?
Like the glass above the sill, is that an opening sashes?
Yes?
It is?
Okay, all of it Okay, yep.
There's one big run in the middle and two on the sides and two lead lights up.
Yeah, I'm with you. Yeah, Typically with these sorts of things, Typically with these sorts of things, Ellen, you know, there's a little bit of good timber left, even if there's some decay in it. So from front to back, from inside to outside, are you saying that the rot has gone all the way through there's no good timber left.
There's quite a lot of good timber, yep. But there's a little bit at the back right in underneath the window. Some of it doesn't go all the way through, right.
Yeah.
The reason I ask is that when I've done those sorts of repairs, I like, taking the sill out is quite a lot of work. Then you have to get a new sill made. That's exactly the same profile, and that can be quite tricky, and then you have to get it in and then you have to attach it. And often the way in which they're attached is in areas that are inaccessible. So most of the time, for an older window like that, the frame on the side
extends down past the sill and is nailed through the side. Well, you can't get into that space again without taking the entire window out and working on it. So the typical approach is to go, I'm going to take out any rotten pieces of timber until I go back to something
that's reasonably sound. Then I can shape up a couple of replacement pieces out of tantalized timber, and I'm going to glue and screw those in, and then I can dress that off, you know, feather it off like with repair care or something like that, and then paint over the whole thing rather than try and take the entire sill out.
That's exactly what I've done. Oh, I got another bit of timber and put it in, angered it in underneath there, and I put it in and two pieces.
Actually, that's okay, that's what it takes.
The pizzas went right through. I put that piece piece of treated pine in there, and I said it all right, and I shoved the other piece in underneath, and I pulled it out again and glued it out. Uh, it's a little bit down, a little bit so you can't actually see the timber.
Yep.
So I filled the rest over with a bit of filler.
Again, you've got to make sure that you're using the right type of filler, Like some of them don't bond particularly well and they tend to, you know, kind of peel out, Whereas you can now get fillers that are a combination of an adhesive and a filler. And again that's that's repair Care, which is a two part product that you can you can use to bond in there, and you can shape it as it's drying, and then once it is thoroughly dry, you can send it and
then it takes paint quite well as also. But look, I think in general it sounds like you're reasonably on on the right track.
Yeah, that's that's that's good for them pulling your way out and replacing the window.
And Yeah, the other the other thing i'd add, Ellen is if in these situations where you're treating you know, areas with rot and you're fetching out the old rot and then putting a new piece in. Ideally, treat the exposed areas of the existing timber with a preservative, a
timber preservative. So there's a couple of products out there, protein, frame, savor and a few others, and and that will just low down or potentially stop that rot that might be in the timber already from continuing to grow and develop through the timber. So you know, do the exposed areas as well as use the right type of timber. I treated timber for the repairs. But it sounds like you've
you've got it under control. I mean, it's it's one of those jobs, you know, if you're contracting someone to do it, and you know, I've done so many, like double hung sash windows for example, where it's time consuming. Right, it's fiddley work. You disassemble the window, you pull out the sashes, you take out the dividing bed. You might have to do a few little repairs. You could spend a day two days working on a window, put it
back together again. And look, when I'm doing it on my place or one of my own projects, then that's my time and that's fine when I'm doing it for a client, and then you know at the invoice at the end of the week you've got I spent a day and a half working on a window and at the end just looks like a window.
Yikes.
Eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call if you've got a painting question. We might have a couple of minutes for a couple more texts for our painting expert Bryce McDermott, who will be along shortly thereafter we're back into building. So eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call if you've got a building question coming up shortly doing.
Upper house sorting the garden. Ask Pete for a hand the resident builder with Peter Wolfcamp and Light Force Solar. Done your solar journey in twenty twenty five, call oh eight hundred eighty eight news talks'd.
Be make twenty twenty five the year of cheaper power. With a solar a solar Platinum Premium bundle from lightfour Solar, you get eighteen high performance solar panels, a sick energy package with a powerful eight killerwatt battery, hybrid inverter power sensor and energy gateway, full installation and a free upgrade of either an evcar charger or two extra panels. All this plus earned two times airport dollars points dollars for just thirty two four nine to nine. That's a ten
percent saving. Lightforce Solars expert installation team and high quality products will make sure that they're with you every step of the way so you can get on with slashing your electricity bills from day one. Lightforce Solar is proudly New Zealand owned and operated as you covered with a ten year workmanship warranty, twenty five year panel warranty and ten year battery warranty. Start your journey to solar. Visit Lightforce dot co dot NZ today des and sees apply
zeb righty, oh, let's get amongst it. And here I was thinking people were being a little bit shy with their painting questions today. But I know, obviously there's quite a lot of painting going on, and to be fair, it feels like a summer holiday bryce is not complete unless we do some painting.
Yes, with the radio screaming in the background.
Absolutely.
Yeah.
I mean, look, it was certainly part of my childhood growing up, and I kind of get that sense of looking around the house, looking at the little jobs that need doing going. I kind of understand now why Dad every summer holidays he was out there doing painting constantly.
Yes, goodness, the timber plank between two sawhorses.
Oh, it's not even go there. Yeah, some things thankfully have improved. Hey, well, great to have you back on the show for twenty twenty five. Really appreciate it. And and you're you know, this is the time, I guess, you know, I was working, to be fair, I was working in the garden yesterday. I wasn't doing any painting yesterday, but I was very aware that working in direct sunlight. You know, that's hard on the back of your knees,
as I've discovered this morning. But it's if you're trying to paint in direct sunlight, that's a pretty much a no no, isn't it.
Yeah.
I just it artificially sort of speeds up the drying or the curing of the pain basically, and you know, it's meant to sort of take its time. And you know, even though it feels dry on the surface, so you know, it's still not properly cue it underneath.
Excuse me, Yeah, yeah, you're absolutely right. Hey, well, look the text are coming thick and fast, so let's rip into it now, quick dry undercoat, razine, quick dry undercoat on a nineteen eight bungalow exterior. I wonder whether people are asking about certain types of native timber that don't really like oil based or water solvent born primers. Is yeah, what's the general.
Let Totra and Natti right have something in it that that oil based primers do not like it, just to fix, fix the cross linking of it and the drying of it and stuff like that, whereas good old quick dry and they'll just fly over it and you can put anything you like over the top of it.
Yeah, perfect, all right. I knew it was the case. So if now nineteen oh eight, chances are it's culdry for example, on the exterior, or if it's a slightly old one, it might even be some early cedar. For those, you can use a solvent born or an oil based with the.
Hard native timbers, I'd probably just go quick drive right the cedar. The cedar. You know, that's if it's really super old, which probably is, you know, you'd be you'd be stripping that right back because cedar is quite a soft timber, and you know stuff can peel away from
it quite easily. Yep, I can, So you'd be using if you're going back to be a timber, I would use on cedar timber lock, which is like a timber preservative and binder, and then you can put your oil based primer over the top of that and you've got a good solid base for coats over the top.
Bant brilliant question for Bryce. I want to restain a deck, but it's got a couple of paint marks on it. How do I prep these spots and areas? So beer timber try you.
Have to try and scrape it off, and I would instead of just spot sanding, you might have to sand the entire length of the offending board. Otherwise you'll end up with light patches where you're going to do you staining. Yes, you know, if you sand an entire length of the board, or at least to a joint on the timber, you know at least you'll have something that's you know, reasonably what's the word I'm looking for, Well, it's not patchy anyway.
Yeah, Because if you've got a bit of let's say it's a bit of pine decking, and you've spilt a bit of paint on one area and you vigorously sand that out and you get rid of it. But suddenly you've made that timber look completely different to the rest of it. And when you stain it, that's just going to highlight that, isn't it.
Yeah, you've gone back to nose clean timber.
All right, So try and even that sanding out and then it will appear or be less obvious. Right, A low brick fence that has white paint along the top and on the post that's all chipped and needs painting. Best way of repainting.
Well, you could there's there's two ways you could do it. Any beer brick obviously wouldn't have to have pigmented teela or a sure.
Seem applied to it.
But then you know, you could use a big sick lambs we'll roller, right, you know, which would you know? Which is something like well somewhere between sixteen and maybe twenty mili worth of fibers on the roller sleeve, which does get into the pointing and stuff like that carries a very large amount of paint at the same time. Or you could spray.
Yeah, okay, and in terms of going over let's say those exposed areas of whether masonry is exposed as opposed to repainting over existing paint. Would you spot prime?
Yes, spot prime on the beer areas?
Yeah.
Cool.
Now they also go to say in this text, also, my home's on a busy bend in terms of the road, and I was wondering if there's a paint that shows up in the dark for safety, like the white lines on a road. Is there aluminiscent, loom lumscent painted.
That reflects Not?
Really. We do have small pots of fluorescent paint that we use for craft purposes. You know, they're become in a two fifty milli pot, so you'd be you know, you'd be buying quite a few if you wanted it.
I don't know that they necessarily want to paint the whole thing, but maybe just a couple of strips on it that sort of would highlight the fact that, hey, there's a bend in the road.
But I know what the roadmaking guys do. They have glass beads, very very fine glass beats. It feels like sand. And when as they're putting the roadmaking paint down, if they want the lights to shine through it. They actually immediately throw these glass beads on top of the wet road marking paint that they're doing and when the car lights shine through it and actually looming a right, whether or not it's still the practice, I couldn't tell you, but you know, you know I've had occasion to sort
of see that in action in the past. So yeah, you'd have to go to a road marking supplies maybe and see if you can get some of those little glass beads just throw it.
Ah, yeah, I'm with you, Or just buy some reflectors and screw them on might be easier as well. Right morning, Pat question for your razine man, that's to you Bryce. Painting over wallpaper that has previously been painted some edges have lifted. What's the best glue to use and what to do whether the paint looks like it's repelling away from a waxy or oily substance underneath. It's been cleaned down with sugar soaked and I'm painting to top coat,
so there's a lot in there. So prepping. If you're going to paint over wallpaper, what's the prep.
Well, if it's been painted already, yep, you just need. You need to wash it down, you know, just get rid of dirt, dust and various bits of grim and stuff like that. If it's a vinyl wallpaper and it hasn't been painted, then you're going to need a vinyl wallpaper sealer before you put water based paints over the top of it. The plasticizers and the vinyl do not allow acrylics to drive prop me and once you've put your paint up, you can eventually peel it off and
rubbery type strips. So if it's bere vinyl paper, paper sealer and then two coats of acrylic, yes, if the edges are peeling away and it's a painted surface, then you might have to use something like a bit of PVA just to just wish it back down again. Then white exs PVA off and carry on as per before. What was the third thing?
What they're saying is that the paint and looks it's repelling. Well, that's that whole issue of vinyl, isn't it. So if you've got a vinyl paper, it won't accept paint, so you need to use the right celer.
Yeah, but it won't it won't sort of separate virtually straight away, right it'll go over the top of it, but you'll be able to pick at it with your fingers and just feel it off. Okay, there might be some form of contamination, like if it's a kitchen area, for instance, it might be a bit of cooking fat or a bit of grease or something like that that's caused it to do that.
Now, I think as a general thing, we tend to underestimate just how grimy surfaces can be over time, and that, you know, washing down surfaces prior to painting is actually really really important.
A lot of people revert to sugar soap, which, you know, while it will do the job, it's very very powerful cleaner and a grease remover, but if you do use it, you've got to make sure that you you rinse and get rid of all the sugar right grease residue off the area.
Yes, it's if.
You leave any sort of residual or soap containing grease residual or whatever you'd like to call it, If you leave that on the surface, that's another issue.
Yeah.
I appreciate that, yep, or someone's asking about coating over a rubber membrane, but I think that that's best left. You know, there are proprietary products for that a you.
Know there there is We've got a product that will stick to beautinol okay, but there is there are other membranes out there, like I don't know whether you've had a t P A yep, danger danger, Do not paint it. Nothing will stick to it, Nothing will stick to it.
T PO yeah, TP yeah. Now this is a classic and I noticed that this is starting to happen to be fair at my place as well. How do you paint over where a nail has started to rust and it's it's bleach eating out. You can see the rust e merging through a painted surface. So let's say you painted the house, you know five years ago, ten years ago, you had a couple of rusty nails and they're starting to bleed out. What's what's the treatment there?
Generally, if the best way is to punch the nail through and replace it with a galvanized point, right, you'll still have basically rustaining. So you need to neutralize the rustaining with a bit of oxeller cacid.
I believe you.
Can buy it and at the hardware store. It's a CLR stuff that they are on television that will neutralize rust spots. And then yet once you've done that, you know, punched the nail through prime, refill prime again, and then you know proceed was you know, the acrylic top cut over the top. If it's a good condition, you may be able to get away with just spot priming the areas. But you might have to paint me an entire board, for instance, just to make it even.
Right to let it blend in. Here is a really good practical question, Please ask Bryce. What's the best way to keep the top of a paint ten locking ring clean when you're painting.
Some guys will actually get a nail and punch little holes around that ring with the lidsits and really that way, and when you know, when they go, you know, when you rub, you you know, take excess paint off to to up your brush on that ring, it sort of just fills it up. But if you guys will punch nail holes in it and it allows you know, wet paint to actually dribble back into the can.
It's a bit of a tip. Though. I've started to get into the habit of let's say I've got my you know, four liter ten right, so middle ten, and I decant from there into a smaller ten that I use for, you know, to put my brush in and do my painting rather than painting from the tin that I'm storing my paint in.
Yes, because it can you can get skin swarming on the top of any length of time. So yes, that I should have thought of that one before. But I know that people do punched little nail holes into the ring around the tin.
Right, that's snifty, and I must have in my workshop the other day that was being used by someone else whose name will go and unmentioned, who then was using the old raisine quick dry to do a little project. And I went back in. They'd done a quite good job of tidying up, but they hadn't nailed the lid or banged the lid down quite tight enough on the top.
And I came in, I noticed that the room was sticking up a couple of mill and I thought, ah, rats, So yeah, you've got to clean out that that line. I mean typically I try and do it with the brushes i'm working away, but then making sure that you seal your tins properly before. If you're going to store paint, let's say, over the winter, you want to make sure that that lip is clean and that you keep that clean and seal them correctly before putting them away.
Yeah.
Yes, and you know the same words with the ten le to pale as well. I mean, you know you get you can get paint built up on the rim of the ten letter pail. So as long as you keep that clean, and if you're going to store it, you know, you put the lid on and then press down in the center of the lid and open it up a bit. Then just force the excess here out of the ten le to pail. Yes, if you know what I mean. You put the lid down, then push the center of the lid and lift a corner up
and you're here of the year. Just tiss out as you're pushing it down.
Yeah. Absolutely, last one for you this morning, Bryce. Can you paint over malamine kitchen units or kitchen cabinets, Yeah you can.
You can. We have a primer called Malamine and laminate primer. Yes, it's it's a water born sealers that you can apply to the cabinet. You've got to let it drive properly. It really takes quite a while to actually gain its adhesion, and very very cold temperature it will stick to it quite happily, but it's got to be kicked. You know,
it's got to be clean before you attempt that. And then I would you know, depending on the type of paint you wanted to put over the top, you will need to undicate it as well, just to provide a bit of a cushion between the adhesion primer and the top coats. Right, But it will knock, you know, if it gets nice and stuff like that, it will chip and it will get damaged. So, I mean, while you know, it'll do the job, but you know, there are certain things that you have to expect.
Actually, given that we've talked about painting over things that really aren't desired, I've got one further question, which is around let me see where I can find it. Yeah, some glazed tiles underneath a fire from the nineteen seventies that they just want to change the color of. Can I paint it? If so? Would the paint be hard enough to withstand a bit of occasional ash that might come out of the fireplace. That's from Matt, Yeah.
I mean you could use I know that our new waterborne sure seal will stick to glaze tiles. It'll stick to glass, so you can use that. But again you've got to keep it clean. You've got to get all the dust and grome out of the areas of where they've put the grouse and all that sort of stuff, as there is such a thing, or if they could be just joined very closely together like one, but it's got to be clean waterborne shore seal. And then you might want to look at something like an enamel maybe
just to stand up, say to a bit of heat. Yes, and you know, if anything ash drops on it, it will if you drop a red hot ember on it, for instance, nothing will stand up to that. It'll be sure, sure, you know, and you will get some some staining from you know, from the just the general stuff that happens to release a smoke and all that sort of stuff. So you've got to expect it.
Yeah, and I guess there's sort of a general caution with these sorts of things.
You know.
It's like saying, oh, look, I've got a really ugly tiled splash back in the kitchen. I want to paint it, or melimine doors or tiles around the fireplace. You know, do it, but have a reasonable expectation that you may have to do it again, and it's not going to be as durable as if you'd use the product that was designed.
You know.
I mean in the end, we're painting something that's ideally not designed to be painted. But you can do it. You just have to be reasonable about the outcome.
Yeah, just before I go, you go.
Neglected to mention something before when we were talking about.
Sugar soap.
We have an opportunity of cleaner from the interior, you know, paint prep that it's a water worn product. You just mix that up, spread on the walls and use that to clean your walls and perhaps not high youth areas where there's greet or anything like that, but it will clean an interior corridor wall or a bedroom wall or in something like that quite happily. So that's another one to consider.
Yeah, I used it in the bathroom ceiling last year. I'll tell you what it takes it off right now, Sorry, I'll grab you for one last question. The product you were talking about, the paint that will go of, but not what's that product.
It's called Membrane Roofing Primate Perfect. Yeah, but it will only stick beautiful, so you have to make very very very sure that whatever you're putting that over is actually beautiful. Yes, yeah, a rubber memo if it's GPO, do not.
Yep, absolutely yeah. Hey, really appreciate it first time for twenty twenty five. Will get you on again soon and really appreciate your time and all of your expertise. Thank you, Bryce, Okay, see yeah, take care all the best Bryce McDermott and Jay Sharple's both of those painting experts, will will be with us throughout twenty twenty five. Eight hundred thanks very
much for your text. I eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call, and a bunch of useful texts people suggesting things around how you kind of look after your paint tin, and it's actually quite important to be fair. The suggestion that you just chop the inside ring out and then use it as a workpot, that's great, but then you can't use it as to store your
painting anymore. And I'll tell you what the good people at Razin, as they do to a number of their clients, send out like a little gift pack which arrived at my place in a four liter paint tin that had the inside ring knocked out. And it was nicely decorated and that sort of thing. And while I've gobbled up the chocolates and bit and pieces that paint ton, I will have for years, So thank you very much for that. Guys,
it is nineteen minutes away from eight o'clock. If you've got a building question, call me nout I eight hundred eighty ten eighty the number to call.
Whether you're painting the ceiling, fixing the fens, or wondering how to fix that hole in the wall you give BEAUTI Wolf Cabin call on Oh, eight hundred eighty ten eighty the resident builder with light four solar where your twenty twenty five solar purchase earns you airpoints, dollars used.
TALKSB taking your calls this morning on all things building and construction. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call. We have had a bit of conversation around cccs, and you know what happens if you're interested in the property that perhaps has a building consent that didn't get a CCC and what's involved. This text in from Dave Hi Pete. Could you just give us a quick list of the process required to achieve a certificate
of approval. Now that's different, so a CoA or a certificate of approval where a CCC hasn't been obtained on a relatively new build. We've got a small outbuilding four by six I presume meters, which didn't need a consent because of its size. It must be quite new because that planning change didn't happen that long ago. So it's less than thirty square meters doesn't necessarily require a consent. So I pre assume that that's that extension of schedule
one that has allowed that to be built. But we have subsequently put in a fireplace professional which will menan. It will now need some sort of council building approval. If I want to get a limb at any point, it's not that you want to get a limit, it's just a limb will be created at any point in the future. I assume having images and certificates for the as built work would be helpful, but roughly what else is required? The challenge, well, a couple of challenges there.
One is that installing a fireplace does require a consent, but it only requires a consent for the installation of the fireplace, right, So I think that in this instance you can build the building less than thirty square meters if it's in the right place, except et cetera, without needing a building consent, but the addition of the fireplace
does need a building consent. The fact that the fireplace has been installed but you didn't apply for a building consent means that you'll need to go for a certificate
of acceptance. What's happened with certificates of acceptance, which used to be the old Safe and Sanitary report is council typically now have set this standard at the same as if you were applying for a building consent, roughly, so, it will need some drawings, it will need the appropriate documentation, it'll need an inspection, possibly by counsel, and then they will issue you a CoA for that. In this instance, Dave, you're only asking for a CoA for the fireplace, nothing else.
This is something that's important as well, is that when dealing with a consent that doesn't have a CCC, any inspection should only deal with what was on the concent Other stuff that wasn't part of the consent shouldn't then get drawn into this right, So you've got to ring fence the scope of the work by making sure that the inspector focuses only on the work that's part of the building consent and not get distracted by other stuff.
So I think for you, Dave, you're probably going to need to provide drawings, documentation, warranty certificate, produce a statement from the installer and then take that along and that should be sufficient for a CoA or a certificate of acceptance. Hopefully that works out well for you. But and I don't want to be the sort of I told you so, but even the person installing the fireplace, if they are a professional, they should have known that you needed to
apply for a consent before doing the work. Council get mightily upset with people that turn it around, turn up and go oh ah, sorry, I forgot to get one of those what do you call them building consent things. Didn't think it was really that important, thought I could get away without doing it. Can you give me one now, please?
And they kind of go no. And that's why they've also increased the burden of proof because people are doing this all the time, doing building work that they knew require a building consent, just couldn't be bothered go ahead and do it, and then ring counsel up and go, oh hey, look, can you just give us one of those coas please? No, they won't anymore. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call, Steve. Very good morning to you.
Yeah you do well, Pete, Yeah, Apete. I've been an expert, an architectural currently architectural designer for the last twenty five years, self deployed and in Auckland. And you see this all the time, people expecting that you can just get it, get a croat out acceptance, but it's not the case. That it's a lot harder, a lot more hoop to jump through.
And you can kind of I got a whole bunch of quite challenging texts a little while ago, which I'm happy with, right, I'm more than happy to be challenged on my opinions and statements. And it was all along the lines of, you know, stop constantly defending counsel and
encouraging bureaucracy and that sort of thing. And so generally I don't know that I do, but at the same time I understand that the rules are there for a reason, right, And I think what was happening, and this is probably ten to fifteen years ago is that people were going, look, I kind of know that I need a building consent, but I kind of can't be bothered, so I'm just going to go ahead and do the work. Then I bring up counsel and go, oh, sorry, silly me, I
forgot to get a consent. Can you come out and give me one of those coas or a safe and sanitary and council have had a guts full of that, so I completely understand that.
Yeah, exactly. Look, people are so tempted, aren't they, by the by just saving money? Isn't it about thinking they justify themselves that they at the beginning to pay a few thousand dollars Yet we don't know, and it kind of they do. The guy saved my my neighbor from a pretty ugly situation that could that could have been later for him when he went and got his all his windows replaced. Lightful like, didn't need didn't need a building consent.
Yep.
And what happened is as I came home every day, I watched these guys who are replacing the windows put the head, put the flashing them and they were basically just chasing the weatherboard, not tucking them up and of course I told me. I told my neighbor, look, look, look what's happening here. And yeah, look lucky I was there to tell him, and he he had the owners, you know, the jowinery company up about this. They were unaware of it because these guys were external contractors.
And look, a lot of.
People think that these guys who throw these windows and are like builders. You know, this is the misconception that you get in the industry. They must be builders because they're putting windows and they're not a lot of the time they've just they might be handy man, or they might have just picked up a hammer. Over the last six months, they've been quickly trained to throw windows in.
That's right. They've given a you know, they've got a very specific task to do, which they can do competently, but it doesn't then make them aware of all of the other legislation and restrictions around it. Steve, I've got to go, but thanks very much for jumping in and adding those thoughts. Oh, eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number to call quick text as well. Pete takes some good photographs when you're applying for a CoA.
It's that it's the whole evidence thing, right, So if you can provide evidence to say, hey, look here is some before photos, here's some you know, in process ones. Here's the critical things. If there's fire rating, if there's waterproofing, if there's particular types of timber that you use, keep all of the receipts as well. Yes, evidence is good. If you're applying for a CoA back in just a moment.
Squeaky door or squeaky floor, get the rated guys from Peter Wolfcare, the resident builder with light four solar dot co dot nz here and make twenty five the year you switch to solar news talks there.
Be writi ow news talks be coming up to news time top of the hour. We've got half an hour of building time straight after news, sport and weather at eight before we jump into the garden with the red declined pasties on the road as he often is, and we've tracked him down actually, speaking of on the road, I'll be on the road next week, so if all goes well and I can figure out which buttons to push, I'll be broadcasting from dol Wronger. We're down there for
a wedding family extended family. Yeah, our godson is getting married and I'm very excited about that, to be fair, and so I'll be out of toll wronger. And then after that, actually we're going to trot on down to Road Rua and we're going to Wingspan. Now we've talked about Wingspan on this program a number of times. Of course, is a huge fan of it and big supporter of it, and keeps on saying to me, you've got to go, You've got to go, got to go. Well, I'm going.
So I'm looking forward to that. That'll be. That'll be after next Sunday's program on the road from Torong. Right, if you've got a question, you should call us now, oh eight hundred and eighty ten eighty, and I'll tell you about a little project that I've been working on because we've been talking about compliance, we've been talking about building information. Well, I got the show for you back in a moment.
The world.
From my love.
A resident builder with Peter wolf Cap and Light four Solar a lest for power in twenty twenty five US talks.
It be your new Stalks. It be very good morning. Welcome along to the show. It is just coming up to seven minutes after eight we will talk all things building and construction through to around eight thirty. Then we're going to jump into the garden with Rud climb past. So if you've got any gardening or entopological questions, you are more than welcome to call Rud after eight thirty. But right now we're talking building. Eight hundred eighty ten eighty.
That number to call I mentioned just prior to the news because I mean, we do for very good reason, spend a bit of time on the show talking about I guess, not practical things as in we talk about legislation. I know it's practical, but it's it kind of there's the doing and then there's the thinking about doing, and the thinking bit is the legislation. The regulations and these things govern what you can and cannot do in terms of construction at home. Schedule one, it's the Building Act,
it's other pieces of legislation. They all have an impact. So one of the little projects that we have been working on over the last couple of months as a series, so it's on YouTube now called I've Been Thinking, which is essentially me thinking about a lot of things that impact building and construction and offering up hopefully some succinct, useful factual advice around like shed you one of the building act or minor variations, or why sticking to a
building consent is really important. There's some practical stuff in there. We talk a little bit about painting, we talk about insulation, we talk about how double glazing works. So if you've ever wondered how it works and why it works and can you prove that it works? Yes, so we've done some real science on that as well. So check it out.
If you just go to YouTube search for resident build a Peter wolf Camp or search for I've been thinking, you'll find a whole bunch of videos there for your hopefully education and entertainment because we're all into the old scrolling on social so check it out online. I've been thinking by just me peak wolf Camp, resident Builder, you'll find a whole lot of information there that'll be useful.
And then as we build that library, I'm sort of taking suggestions for things that we should be talking about like we do on the show as well. Oh eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number to call. And oh, now, just before the news, someone said, what's that stuff that he was talking about with regard to the rust. Oxalic acid. How you spell that is o x a lic so oxalic o x a lic acid
you can also buy. I've noticed like water stain remover in hardware stores as well, which is like oxalic acid. And then the product that Bryce was talking about is CLR, which has been around for a long time. To be fair, I didn't know you could use it to sort of get rid of rust stains in that. I've got a little job for that later on this week as well. Sarah, A very good morning to you.
Good morning Peak, can you goody.
Good thank you?
And else good good, good thing.
How can I help?
Well, we're looking to buy a house and there's a number of issues. There's they're often with older houses. It's a nineteen fifties house. It's unusual in the fact, it's not unusual that it's got stucco on the outside in a sort of star coe ceiling. What is unusual. It's also got that star coe on the internal walls of some of the rooms, like the loud and I'm thinking what can we do with that? We can't get a builder for lifele money, holidays and fair enough, you guys
need a break. But we're trying to decide what that's going to cost to jub over or remove. There might be asbestos also, So that's just one issue. The other issue is they've got that the house apparently used to have a double garage at the roadside. What they've done is they've converted that garage into a studio, no bathroom, but just a studio, and then they've built on the whole length of the house and they've put the garage at the other end right. But all this is done
without permits. But someone said to me they either have to pull it down or ask for a code of acceptance. But they've straightaway that. The real estate agent said no, they're not prepared to do that. They'll pull it down, but they won't get a CoA. I've measured it. It's one point seven meters between the corner of that new garage part in their new fence because they've subdivided the section so they're now building on the other side. So and then the rest of it, it's like a triangle shape.
So it gets wider and wider is it goes back towards the road where the original driveway was. The problem is there should probably appreciate. There's no plans on file. Nobody can prove it was ever there. They have found a photo showing the original garage, so we can prove that it was always but yet not a great one that there was a garage. We can't prove that it
was ever permitted. I guess one of my questions there is, are we therefore able to rebuild that garage like for light because it was there without a permit?
Oh, very good question.
And they've filed up the road as well. They've put the fence and behind it now so you would never know there was ever a driveway entrance there apart from this photo, this aerial shot from you know, thirty odd years ago.
Whenever that goes.
Is the intention though of the garage, it's no longer going to be a garage, it's going to be a habitable space.
Well, I think what they've done is they're trying to get the best of both worlds. We just want to get a garage back.
You need a garage, absolutely, and that's.
What we want.
But we see it as quite a usable room at the moment because obviously it's an end on the end, it's a huge, big space and they've got the car, they've got the bikes, they've got you know, the wreck room for the teenage kids in a little old studio at the back that you can pot around in this workshop.
But it's not clearly consented because they've adapted that and they've said no, and we don't want to purchase the property and then have massive problems with counts because we can't prove there was never a garage the air and there's you know, there's no apart from this photo that does show the original garage there. We were just wonder if it's going to get end up in the two hard basket because it would affect our offer. And then the thing of the staco. Do we just simply jib
over there? Obviously we'd have to get it tested for asbestos. That we're not so concerned about that. I guess it's how much over all this is going to cost.
And look, i'd be really it'd be foolish of me to offer up a price on that sort of thing because without seeing it fair enough. At the same time, I mean, look, if they've got stucco on the walls and you know, you can like obviously you want to get you.
Can reason why we would get it tested.
You just pull off the yeah, and encapsulating asbestos is a kind of a prescribed way of dealing with the potential, right you know.
Sure, so just a big lounge area that's got those internal walls. The rest of the walls appear to be jim ye okay.
And in terms of like the unconsented work, I mean, there must be literally thousands of properties around the country that have unconsented work, right.
For sure, But we're concerned about Peters because they're building next door. Council are going to be next door doing all there that and pieces as they go by, and they're going to see it. So it's not like it can go under the radar, to be fair, and we don't want it to be going under the radar. We want to get it.
I think unless the work is you know, potentially really really unsafe or something like that. Council, to the best of my knowledge, are not in the habit of wandering down the street comparing old photographs and old consents with what they see today, right, you know, every now and then you hear about council entering a property and issuing an unsafe building notice or something like that, but that the last one that I can recall was a gentleman who decided to build a three story tower out of
palettes and plywood in his backyard. You know, now there was there's a lot of other issues going on there. It's not like someone who's added a lean to an existing garage and using that as a workshop or a storage space. I guess the other way of looking at that is there is nothing to stop you purchasing the property, being fully aware of the risks involved in it, and accepting the fact that when you go to sell, as we all inevitably do, someone's going to ask exactly the
same questions you're asking today of you. And then you've got to go, what am I? What am I going to say?
You know?
How am I going to We don't.
Mind pulling it down and putting the proper garage bet at the front. I guess we're what we're wanting to know is can we just do that because there was a garage there and we're just putting it bat like for like, so therefore we don't need a permit to do that, and we pull down the rest of the structure.
I think you'd be pushing it because you know, well only in the sense that like you could do, you could call it repairs and maintenance. I'm going to take off some weather boards, I'm going to take off some out some studs, I'm going to replace some studs. I'm going to replace the weather board. And then it becomes like Granddad's ax. Right, it's had three heads and four for handles? Is it still Granddad's as kind of? But not quite? I mean, do you actually again many other things?
Do you need to pull it down? Can you just repair the garage and make it so?
I don't know, we don't. But the property is already under scrutiny because they've got a you're going to laugh at this, they've got a car port. But that car port is half on the.
What do you call it?
The boom and although yeah, although it's I know, but it's right up the back in a rural dead end street and you can't go any further. And the council have never looked after the front part. And they've got all trees, trees, all sorts of things there and it's all nice and private. But the council have now decided, bless them, They've issued them a notice and they said, you could either take that down or you can pay a couple of thousand dollars. I think it is peaked
to get a conceit. We'll consider if will allow you to keep it, and then we'll charge you potentially under one thousand dollars a year to rent it off us rent it back, which is not the end of the world. But because it's already under the radar, we thought, well, this is the other side of the property. Does that put the other and how much money we talking? Because you know, to do all these things, it's a bit of an open isn't it.
A lot of this is going to come to.
I mean they only use it. They only use it to chop their wood under it for the log fire. But look, it's not unsightly. Even the neighbors. You can see right down the street. They're all over the However, the other neighbors don't have a structure on it, so it's it doesn't they've turned a blind eye to there because there's nothing there but here they've got.
Kind of comes down to what your risk profile is, right, So you know, if you are prepared to take the risk and you're prepared to accept that you might be in a position were you and have to spend some money. There's lots of mites and it just comes down to risk. I mean, in the end, you can buy whatever you want, right.
For sure. And I guess we could go through the permit process and put a double ariage somewhere else on the property. I don't know what you I don't know. I don't know what you're paying for a double garage these days.
That one could be that more. Yeah, but yeah, sure, a couple of interesting texts that are coming through in terms of you know, the garage should show on the limb, I'm not so sure. I mean, limbs don't typically tell you the property, and then it won't matter about the unconsented work as long as it's not showing on the limb. And then and the other thing is then you know, sometimes with getting finance it can be tricky if there's there's fish in the contract.
We've got no problems with getting the finance. I'm more concerned about the insurance aspect of it. We've got something that's deemed illegal and let's say there was a fire or yeah, you know what a playing for ye, I realize.
It, you know, risk profile that's really.
The reason why we thought it might just be saved to pull it down. But we thought we made the title to rebuild the original garage. It's not on the plans, but the photo definitely shows there was a garage.
The other thing and whether or not you can do this in the time that you have to as part of your due diligence free purchase is to actually go to council. You know, most councils have a building help desk. You could sit down and go okay, you know, with the planet, and their response typically their response.
I'm still waiting for the planner to my care.
But what were you?
Yeah, I'm trying to do the right stuff. I guess I was more phased about that stako on the Have you ever seen it? Oh my gosh.
Look it's a little bit like.
That sort of Spanish effect, you know that. It's yeah, okay, people love that. Back in the day, it was the height of fashion.
Yeah, I can.
You can put up with it on the in the.
Yeah, I know, that's right. You got standards to maintain. Hey, good luck with the process. All the very best you, Sarah, You take care all right? All of this then, oh, classic ridy. Oh, it is twenty one almost twenty two minutes after eight. We'll take a short break. We'll take one more call if you want a Russian, and we'll talk building. Then we're into the garden with redclined pass come eight thirty this morning.
Measured twice, cut once but lady call peat first feeder wolf gap. The resident builder with light four solar save power had earned air boids dollars.
News Talks it B, News Talks it B and Rudd along shortly, Mike, good morning to you. Hello, Mike, hang on there. How's that?
There?
You go get a Mike, Hi, Peter, thanks for taking my call.
Pleasure.
So I've got a nineteen fifty nine weatherboard house. It's got gable ends at the ends, and in the triangular part of the gable end there's board and bat Yes. And at the bottom of that board and baton there's a water break sill before the weatherboard underneath it. Yes, the flashing on the water break sill is interesting out. For a while, I've been doing sort of blog jobs on it. While it's just not really working. It's at
the point where it needs replacing. But my concern is that it's very difficult to get it out without lifting up the board and bat and above yep. And I'm concerned and I'm not going to be able to do that without breaking them. So it's wondering what I was wondering, whether I could just rip a line above it and put another water brake sell on top of it and that would help me to get the flashing out. Or is that not advisable?
Yeah, I see what you're saying. The corrosion on the existing flashing that's there. Is it like only on the front lip, or is the entire flashing all the way back to let's say where the building line. So typically this type of flashing, it comes down the building line, extends over the top of the weatherboards and then goes
down again. And then they would have put the weather boards on, put the flashing on, put the board and baton above it, right, So there's a part of it that goes up behind the board and baton, which, like you say, without taking the board and baton off or prying them forward, is almost impossible to remove.
Yeah, it's actually, it's quite it's quite common. It's not just on the front with that flashing. It's kind of sitting on the top that would you understand what I mean by a water brake sill. It's like a window sill that they've got at the bottom of the board and battern.
Yes, it sort of.
It overhangs the weatherboard underneath it.
So is there actually a metal flashing over it at all or is it just the timber that's acting as the flashing.
No, there is a metal flashing over the brake cell, right, and that's what's rusted out.
And it's that flashing that's rusted out. And again, is that rusted all the way back, let's say, to the upstand at the back, or is it just kind of on the front edge.
Yeah, No, it's rusted to where it goes vertical up and behind the board and.
Bat and right.
H The reason I was sort of asking so many questions about how corroded it is is, you know, depending on how exposed the area is, what the wind situation is, what this whether there's an eve or an overhang, et cetera. Is that you know, if it's relatively low risk right in terms of weather being driven in there, then you could just cut the corroded part of the flashing off, leaving the upstand and that first sloping section intact and
sliding a new flashing underneath it. Now, it's not perfect, but it you know, it's enough to be a practic called repair without having to pull all of the batin and board off. Have you trotted?
Okay?
All right, yeah, no, that's fair enough. You know, sometimes, depending on the size of the gable, it might just be like with these jobs, sometimes you spend a lot of time trying to think of a quick way of doing it, and then you just go, if I just pulled the batinum board off and replaced it and did the flashing, I could possibly do that in the same amount of time as it takes me to fart around trying to think of a way of doing it without having to take them off.
Yeah.
Sometimes I've got a build a guy who has given me that same advice. I just wondered if there was a sneaky way that I could do it with it.
And look, sometimes there is a sneaky way, or you know, a deep dark secret that's only shared among the initiated as to how to do these things. But every now and then it's just actually, I'm just going to pop those boards off. I might be able to reuse half of them, might be able to put some building paper on. At the same time, I might be able to get some insulation into an unexpected area, that sort of thing.
And then I'm going to reinstate it, you know. And if it's a gable end, does the gable extend over the entire width of the building or is it just a portion of the front of the building. Like what would the width of the gable be.
Maybe it's got two bedrooms, two bedrooms, why they small bedrooms? But okay, probably six meters.
Ah okay, all right, that's quite a bit of work. I mean. The other thing to do along, just very quickly, along the lines of what you were talking about initially, is to, let's say, come up seventy five millimeters right from where the junction is between the board and batten and your timber break and cut that, ideally at a fifteen degree angle, so you're cutting the undercutting the boards,
cut them off all the way along. Then you might be able to find that with a multi tool you can cut through any nails that might be there, and that will give you enough space to slide a new flashing up as far up as you can possibly go and then what you'll see is, instead of a neat junction or a closed junction between the board and baton and the top of your weather brake seal, you'll have a fifty mil up stand there. But you will be able to get a flashing in there. But you know,
don't try and cut twenty mil off. That won't work. You'll have to cut at least forty or fifty mili off.
Yeah.
Yeah, So there's a couple of options there. That's all the very best, Take care, all the best. Right, let's jump into the garden. Red climb past is available. If you'd like any question or you want answers on any gardening entomological questions. It is available the number to call eight hundred and eighty ten.
Eighty four on gardening with Still Sharp, get free accessories on selected still tools. For more from the Resident Builder with Peter wolf Cap, listen live to News Talk set B on Sunday mornings from six or follow the podcast on iHeartRadio.