You're listening to the Resident Builder podcast with Peter wolf Camp from News talks ed by doing up the house, sorning the garden, asked Pete for ahead The Resident Builder with Peter wolf Camp call eight hundred US talks edb.
The house sizzle even when it's dark, even when the grass is overgrown in the yard, even when the dog.
Is too old to borrow.
And when you're sitting at the table trying not to stop.
House scissor hole.
Even when we leave a beanball, even when you're there, you.
House sizzle hole, even when there's ghost even when you go around from the ones you.
Love your molls, you.
Screamed and broken pans a beeing in front of.
Locals, vestball when they're gone leaving.
Never has, even when we'll burn, even when you're in there alone.
Yeah.
Well, a very very good morning and welcome along to the Resident Builder on Sunday. That's with three Pete off Camp and we are here too. Basically, well, talk about your place. So if you've got a little project on, maybe you're doing some alterations, maybe you're doing some renovations, maybe you're just looking to the you know, the days are getting a bit shorter, it's a little bit cooler.
I was going to say the rain has started, but realistically it hasn't anyway, not in this part of the country, and we're kind of getting a bit desperate for it to be fair. But we're thinking about, you know, what's it going to be like when the rain comes and the wind comes, and have we sorted out that window that doesn't quite close, or perhaps some downpipes that are not quite working as well as they should. So if you've got a project on and you'd like to talk
about it, well, I'd love to listen. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call nine two nine two or zbzb from the text machine. That'll get you straight into the studio. And I've just logged into my email, so if you would like to send an email, it is Pete at newstalksb dot co dot nz. So Pete p E t E at newstalksb dot co dot nz. I trust you've had a good week. If you've been doing projects, then I trust you've had a productive week.
You know, there's there's kind of a satisfaction that comes with undertaking the task, but also that sense of satisfaction, right, I wanted to do it. I've done it, you know, I can move on to the next task. I was reminding myself of that yesterday as I was in the workshop in the late afternoon priming. What have I got about one hundred and forty lineal meters of one fifty x one fifty x twenty five tongue and groove decking,
So it's h three point two treated. The guys. I ordered it a little while ago, and the guys went, oh, yeah, okay, he obviously wants it really soon. So when I went to pick it up the other day, because I didn't actually need it as soon as I thought I did, that's another story, isn't it. It turns out that it
wasn't pre primed. So I was down at Razine yesterday, got a tin of four liter ten of oil based primer, set myself up a little jig because of course, if you're priming, pre priming tongue and groove, you've got to get into the groove and around the tongue and then well, podcast in, yeah, powards in brush ready, tin ready, and we're in it in the workshop, little production line, going
to do that. So and actually speaking about painting, because I was talking a good mate Jay from Razine on the Friday, just making sure I was using the right product and the right application. So I'm going to do an oil based undercoat, then I'm going to do a code of quick dry, and then once the decking is laid, which should be in a couple of weeks hopefully, then I'll go over the top with my top coats, which
will be water borne. Good news, as he gave me all the advice, I asked him all the questions, so I don't need to ask him in question today, but there is an opportunity for you to ask him in question. So at around seven twenty this morning, Jay from Razine will be joining us, and if you've got a question of painting nature, then please text those through. So that's nine two, nine to two. We'll line them up and we'll race through a whole series of your questions around
painting with Jay at about seven thirty this morning. But right now it is a general opportunity to talk all
things building and construction. I may have me last week, and it's absolutely true that there's a vast number, seemingly a series of events and announcements on the way from the Government with regard to self certification, with regard to sort of an investigation or a little bit of clarity around how long it takes building Consent Authorities bcas to process building consents and what can be done to speed
that process up. There's going to be a couple of other announcements on the way as well, so I reached out to Chris Pink, the Member Member of Parliament and the current Minister for Building and Construction during the course of the week, and he's going to join us on
the show next Sunday for a bit of an interview. Actually, very generously, he did offer to come into the studio and take some calls, and I thought, well, actually, given that there's a number of announcements coming up, we might just push that back a month and then we will We'll get Chris Pink into the studio and you can ask questions of him, but at this stage next week it'll just be questions, maybe some text questions, and certainly I've got a whole bunch of questions for a brief
interview with Chris Pink, the Minister next Sunday on the show. But right now it is your opportunity, so we to be fair. Look, folks, we got off to a slow start last week. So if you're listening and you're thinking, God, I do have a question and I never get time to ask it, now's a perfect time to ring O eight one hundred and eighty ten eighty. If you've got a question of a building nature, whether it's you know, the practical side of things, how do I do this?
The kind of theoretical in terms of what regulations apply, which rules apply? In fact, who was I this week? Oh, a couple of events that I went to in talking to a young guy who's a former building inspector and also building survey now and we got onto talking about h one.
Oh that's right.
I had an interesting discussion with a guy around tiling and tiling showers, and both of us came to the conclusion that unfortunately, the legislation is not terribly clear around whether when you need a building consent for a tile shower. So we can we can talk about that a little bit as well on the program. So practical things, theoretical things, and maybe some tips and tricks of getting a job done just a little bit quicker. I mean, look, it was as simple as this. Yesterday, the day before I
knew that I have to. So I've docked all my boards roughly to length, knowing that I'm going to have to trim the front edge off once I lay the decking boards, I'm going to have to paint the edges the tongue and the groove of this tongue groove board. So I just made a couple of little brackets, timber ones that I have on the bench that I can stand the board up in so that I don't have to hold it while I'm trying to paint the edge. Little things like that. Oh eight hundred, I'll send you
a photo. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty. Let's rip into it. The lines are open. My name's people off Camp, the resident builder, and we are talking all things building and construction. I've got an interesting update too on if you recall I mentioned this a couple of times during the program. Today. A couple of weeks ago, we had the opportunity to talk with Charlotte McEwan from One Tree Hill College. They have done a complete rebuild of an old Kaina Aura house. So it was a it was
a house offer development site. They bought it for a dollar off Ko had it shipped to one Tree Hill College in Auckland the students and some local LBP builders and I have to say some tremendous companies that got on board with this. They've completely refurbished the house. And when I say refurbished, it is now home Star seven, so New Zealand Green Building Council home Star seven rated house which makes it exceptionally eco friendly and energy efficient.
And that's going up for sale on Thursday, so check it out. Barfat and Thompson would have it on their website. You'll find it on trade me as well. It is a fantastic event. I'm going to pop along. I don't know that I'll put my hand up for it. I'm not sure what I would do with a very very good three bedroom house, but hey, if you know someone who wants one, you should be at the auction on set on Thursday four o'clock. Looking forward to that, right,
let's get amongst it, folks. Oh, eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number. It is just on six fifteen and Tony, a very good morning to you, Good.
Morning to your again to talk to you again.
Thank you.
I've got a question. We had a house that was category three, and then we sold it and I bought another one of colonial wooden windows. Yes, the thing is, before I bought it, people to put it on the market just put cheap paint all over the windows. Right now. I knew when I bought it it didn't have aluminium, but that you can't have everything in life. So I'm about at the stage where I need to start doing the windows. The windows are all opening and closing. There's
only one catch broken. I've got to take a bit of timber off a couple of the side. Sure, but do I need to take all that paint off back to the bear timber. My thoughts were that I'd use with the shore seal all based and then put a good top coat on. Being more than one, would that be what I should do?
I guess the thing that causes me to take a breath for a second is that someone's applied perhaps and not particularly good paint over the top of existing paint. So if you.
Apply it correct, that's absolutely correct.
Yeah. So if you then apply another coat, even if you use something like shore seal, right, which is to be fair, it's more it's a pigmented seala that I would typically use on bear or on plaster board surfaces that have been painted. I'm I'm more than happy to ask jay At in about an hour's time. But I would think that the concern is that you will apply a coat to the top of a coat that's not particularly well adhered, and that eventually that will your top
coat will peel off with the coat below it. So I think at the very least you would want to hit all of the windows with like a tungsten scraper or possibly even some paint stripper and try and get rid of that top coat. You might find that the coat underneath is actually reasonably firm, and at that point I would give that a primer coat, probably an oil based one, and then.
Go overficient man look.
I typically have always used sure seal where I've got existing plaster board. You know, like let's say you repair a section of a wall and you've got some new plastering and some new job board, and you've got some old plaster board that's already had a coat of paint on it. I'll use it in that instance there just to bind everything together outside. I typically I'm a little bit old fashioned with this. I typically use an oil
based primer for my timber joinery. You can finish in a water born enamel, which is really good and a little bit easier to apply for exterior, although saying that I typically for my own jobs, I'll often use an enamel on my joinery outside as well.
So oil based, oil based and top coat.
Yeah, you can get a little bit of yellowing with light colors. You know, whites tend to yellow a little bit. That's one of the only criticisms of it. I find that I'll live with that. Basically, if I want the durability, because.
I want to do it once, I want to do it well. Three quarters of the house I can get to. But being a colonial, you've got the timbers in between the small pieces of as well, so it's going to be quite a job to do it.
But what it comes down to is that you need to be really confident that the surface that you're applying your new top coats to is bonding with the timber. And if it feels like they've whacked a coat of acrylic over the top, maybe they haven't done a great deal of preparation.
Then that none you can see it.
Yeah, hit it with a tungsten point, hit it with a tungsten scraper initially.
Different the scraper is that different to your sutordinate scraper and buy it bunning then no, no, no.
It probably is the same. I typically get I'm not sure who makes them, but they have an interchangeable blade, right, so you can replace the blades. So you can buy scrapers, but then unless you know how to sharpen them, they do get a bit dark. So that the tungsten ones are great because when the little tungsten blade, which is about an inch long about half an inch wide, when that dulls, you can flip it over, use the other side, and when it's really dull, throw it away, replace the blade.
But typically if you you know, if you use that to scrape the surface and material comes off easily, well then you know you've got to carry on with the prep. If you scrape it and it seems to hold there and it's not terribly crazed and that sort of thing, you can send it, prep it and then top coat.
But it's a good work fifty one years old, so I mean, yeah, but be solid.
Oh yeah, absolutely. Look you might find a little bit of rot, you know, in a corner of a sill or something like that. But again, you can fetch that rot out and the windows will be good at least for another fifty years.
So I should do that tongusten rather than just use a multi tool or something. We should just grind it away.
Yeah, look you might. I mean it's a little bit harder on your hands using the tungsten, but you'll find actually that it takes off that loose material quite quickly.
Okay, look, no, thank you so much. I'll let you know how.
Please do you take care, take good care, Thank you, Tony. We'll talk to Philip in a moment. Quick text. My deck doesn't get a lot of sun. Do I need to stay? And that's a very good question for Jay Sharple's from Razine. He'll be with us just over an hour's time. Right, the lines are open. Now's the time to call. It is twenty one minutes after six with with Philip in just a moment.
Whether you're painting the ceiling, fixing with fans, or wondering how to fix that hole in the wall. Give Peter wolf Cap call on eight the Resident builder on news dog zeb.
I'm hoping I've got to this just in time. So last week Debbie sent me an email at around this time and mentioned the fact that she was heading off to work and asked a quick question about bathroom extraction and one hundred year old wooden house. Well, as it happens, that was exactly what I did. I get it finished last week. Yeah, I pretty much did until I got to the exterior grill. So this is a little project
that's been on my list as well. So I've replaced the fan, I've run new one hundred and fifty miliducting along the ceiling and then where you duck out. Often this is a real challenge for all sorts of extraction.
Is typically you know there's there's lots of space in the ceiling, but then when you get to the exterior, whether you're dropping over the top plate and in to a safite or in my case, the safite is pretty much level with the top plate, and so you've got to you've got one hundred and fifty milimeter round, but then suddenly you've only got one hundred millimeters height to transfer through. The temptation is to take that flexible ducting and kind of just squish it down a little bit
and then poke it out through the safit. But that's not great. It tends to impede the flow, and so all of the recommendations from the ventilation extraction experts is you need to keep the same volume of ducting. So I transferred from a one to fifty round to two one hundred and twenty by ninety rectangular section, so round to rectangular, then had an elbow, so a ninety degree bend, and then I could drop out through my safit. What I couldn't find, as it happens, was a grill that
fitted there. So in a moment of inspiration, just quickly as I was standing at my local resource recovery center we don't call them to anymore resource recovery center, about to throw the old one into the skip or actually the metal part was going to go for recycling. The plastic could also be cycled. I looked at the old grill and thought, hmm, I could make a new grill out of the old grill. So that's how I finished the safit detail anyway, Debbi, So that's hopefully an idea
for you as well. So if you're doing the bathroom, what you want. The key to extraction is putting the extractor in the right place in the bathroom which often is not actually immediately above the shower, which is the mistake that I made some years ago, but anyway, I
can't fix that right now. The other thing is to make sure that you're a ducting runs as level as possible and as straight as possible and as short a route as possible to the exterior, that you size the fan correctly, and ideally if you've got a fan, you're either going to have one that has a run on timer so that when you finished in the bathroom and you turn the hour off to the fan, it actually runs for another five minutes or so, because typically we're
in the bathroom, we create lots of steam, and then we finish in the bathroom, turn everything off and go, but there's still quite a lot of steam in that space, so that's a key to it. The other key is that you don't crush the ducting as it goes to
the exterior. That's really important as well, and increasingly now and I've got one of these to install another projects Simmis so Simx have developed a range of extractor fans for wet areas that have a humidity sensor in them as well, so they run constantly at a very low flow, which is great for ventilation and extraction inside your house, and then they ramp up when it senses that, hey, someone's using the shower. Basically we've got lots of humidity here.
It ramps up and then reduces its rate, but constantly runs, and that's really really good. The other key factor for good extraction in a bathroom is making sure that air can get into the bathroom. So underneath the door, I think the recommendation is as much as a twenty mil gap, but even if it was, let's say fifteen mil, that's good. You know, when you trim doors off often you're going, I'm going to make that gap as little as possible,
because that's really professional. But in a bathroom, you actually want that gap to be a reasonable amount so that you've got air coming into the room as you're trying to suck it out. Otherwise you're just creating a vacuum and that doesn't work particularly well for extraction. Hopefully that's some ideas. Debian. Good luck with your renovation. Hello Philip.
Today, my question there is a product in insolmax insulation. Is their right to use in your opinion.
So in saying this, you're being very specific about the product and the supplier. Because there are a number of blowing insulation systems, right, So some of them are foam, some of them are fibers, some are injected. Yeah, they're all essentially injected systems. What's your situation? Where are you looking to use it?
Got a weather board house, yep, built in the fifties, iron roof, bats under the floor, beats in the ceiling, but nothing in the walls. Double glazing windows all around, and yeah, it's.
The walls are now You're kind of your one week spot, aren't they. If you've gone to the extent of insulating the ceiling, you've got some insulation under floor, you've gone to the double glazing, which is great. Then the heat. One of the interesting things I learned just a couple of months ago, and I suppose I'd always sort of thought this, but I'd never had it written down in front of me, is that heat transfer is unstoppable. Right. The process of heat essentially trying to level out of
its cold inside and warm inside. The world wants to equalize, and so heat will transfer through any particular barrier that we can imagine it will all so, but what we're trying to do is slow it down. Right, So at the moment you've blocked off all of these passages for heat transfer, but your walls, if they are essentially plasterboard, timber framing and some weather boards on the outside, heat will escape through there and through gaps and cracks and
so on. I think I'll be really, really honest, I have often been skeptical of the blowing or injected insulation systems for walls. My own experience some years ago was working on an older house where I had to remove exterior cladding. We were doing some alterations and I could see some of the injected systems that have been injected, and you could see how moisture had affected it. There was the beginning of a bit of mold growth. You could also see where it hadn't been extensive, right, it
hadn't filled up all of the gaps. And one of the things we know about insulation is that if it's not well installed, if there are gaps, its effectiveness drops quite considerably. Even small grap gaps will drop it down by fifteen to twenty percent, right effectiveness. So if you're working in a space that you can't see, that's particularly challenging, isn't it. You know, how do I know that I've got insulation everywhere? So those are some of the challenges.
At the same time, Inevitably, whenever I go to you know, home shows and that sort of thing, and I'm at these events quite a bit these days, I'll get chatting with people who do the injected systems, and I'll be quite blunt with them in terms of saying, you know, can you convince me that what you're doing is safe, that it's effective, and it's not going to cause some
unintended harm in the future. And I think some of the new systems are better than the old system So they talk a lot of people talk about things being hydrophobic, as in they won't hold water. So I and then I've also spoken with people who said, look, I've had it done to my house, and you know, the amazing thing is the next day, I notice that it's better, right, you know that suddenly my house is warmer. So the other thing. And so I'm just giving you some general principles.
I think if you're engaging with companies that are providing that product, the one thing that they must do is that it requires a building consent or something from the local territorial authority saying that this is an exemption right. No one who comes to do this work should tell you don't have to worry about a building consent because it's quite clear in the Building Act that the addition of insulation to an existing exterior wall requires a building concent.
So if it went for bats and we do we do to go on the inside or take the weatherboards off and do it from the outside.
I mean, look, taking the weatherwards off is a much bigger job. It potentially taking the weatherwards off gives you an opportunity to do things like, you know, add a building rap around the outside and try and deal with air tightness. Again. You know, a lot of the discussion at the moment in terms of building better is also talking about air tightness. So you know, your house, my house, to be fair, and a whole bunch of other ones.
You know, we might have timber framing and weatherboards, right, but there might not even there might be some old tar paper or possibly your house there may not be any building paper around the outside. So every single gap and crack that there is in the weatherboards, a scriber around a flashing bottom of the weather boards, all that sort of thing. We'll all be allowing air to push through the building envelope, and that reduces the effectiveness of any heating Because of air can get in, it can
also get out. And if everything's trying to equalize, you've got a nice warm room inside and it's ten degrees outside, it's going to actively be sucking all of that warm outside of the house with the gaps and cracks. So if you were to do exterior cladding, almost no one, I know, unless you're doing a really extensive rebuild or you're aiming for high performance or something like that, would go to the extent of taking the exterior cladding off.
Sometimes with old houses, you know, the interior wall linings have got a bit shabby or they've got wallpaper on them, so we tend to pull that off. But again, if that's all, if your intention is to install insulation in an existing exterior wall, and you're going to do that by removing the wall lining, technically that requires a building consent as well. Yeah, you know, and I think look around there's some really good resources online And again I
really do emphasize this. Whoever ends up doing the job, they must provide you with documentation to say either it's a system which has prior approval from councils. This is what often happens, so rather than them having to go through and make an individual submission for a building consent, there'll often be a process where the council goes, okay, it's that system. We know it works. You've provided me with some evidence. You know we don't need to come
out and do an inspection. We issue a building consent and a CCC. Or they'll say okay, we understand the system. We're prepared to give you an exemption from a building consent, but again, get the paperwork. Okay, all the us, you make take care my pleasure, all of us. Hopefully it didn't sound too heavy, but I think if we're going to do it, we're going to do it well. And
in fact, where was I? Oh, I was at a sort of networking event on Friday night which was really good and one of the guys who was presenting, actually he probably I'll probably get him on the show in the next sometime in the next few months. Joe Lythe who is an architect and passive house designer and currently now the chair of the Passive House Association for New Zealand was talking about sort of going to a site where people were doing insulation and you know, the installation
was poorly installed. There were gaps and cracks and you could see that they hadn't that either you know, cut a piece of insulation too short or too narrow, put it in and left a gap on the side. Those sorts of you know, poorly installed insulation is not terribly effective. If you're going to do it, you've got to do it well. Oh, eight one hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call. I am going to have a
rant in a moment. Stand by squeaky door or its squeaky floor, get the right advice from Peter Wolfgap, the resident on us talk s b right. Oh, your opportunity to have your say or ask a question or discuss a product. I mean, this is one of the things. And it's interestingly enough, it's likely to become I was going to say, even more complicated that there may well
be more choice. So one of the things that the new government not so new these days is it talking about, is making it easier to import building products into the country in terms of the compliance pathway for products that are used and this is quite an important distinction around a product that is used in conjunction with consented work.
So you know, there's lots of building products that you can use, paint, sealents, et cetera, that have nothing to do with the building consent, but there are products that are specified for use in a building consent. So you might find, for example, that if you're using particular type of cladding, the architect or the architectural designer will be quite clear about saying, this particular sealant is the sealant to use for maybe a head flashing or a junction
or a corner flashing or something like that. And if it's specified on the plan, that's the one that you're supposed to use. And then typically products that are used with building consents either have a brand's appraisal or they have a code mark, and those two processes are relatively arduous, and my understanding is actually quite expensive for companies to go through. So if you've I'll stick with sealants, right.
So at the moment, if you want to sell a sealant product onto the market and it's used in restrict building work or within appli it's or a task that has got a building consent attached to it, then it must have brands, appraisal or a.
Mark.
The absurdity to some degree, and I'm a big fan of having the right product, But you know, if you've got a let's say, a seilant that's been manufactured in Europe for the last fifty or sixty years, comes from a company that does extensive research and testing, and then we bring it into the country and we then have to ask a local authority to go is this a good product? You kind of go, it probably is right. So there's going to be some work in that space.
So again my point was that you know, if there's already a baffling array of products available for choice, if this legislation comes through and it frees up the opportunity for products to be imported from let's say, jurisdictions that have a similar testing regime to our own, and they pass compliance in that country, maybe North America, certainly Europe, a couple of other England, you know, other places around the world where there's specific testing that's reliable and the
product is manufactured there, then maybe those products can come in and not have to have local testing in order to be used in compliant works. That'll be an interesting one, right, because you haven't called. Now I'm going to have a rant. So I mentioned before that I was at the Resource Recovery Center, and I off the cuff sort of mentioned that we used to call them tips, right, We used to go dump all out of our stuff on the
ground or in the landfill. In fact, I saw a fantastic photo the other day on kind of one of the social media pages that's got old photos, and it had your typical landfill back in the nineteen seventies. And one of my abiding memories from childhood was loading up at home, often with green waste. We lived in pop a toy driving out to Whitford to the tip that was on the road out to my right eye there in the Whitford and it was an old quarry, and you know, I'd be in the car with Dad and
we'd just drive in there, pay a few bucks. You'd drive into a huge tipping area revere and just throw everything on the ground and the bulldoze are to be running around tracking it all down, and there'd be a whole row of you know, Vauxhaels and Holden's and Valiants and that with homemade trailers on the back and knowing us, we typically had a good fossic around while we were there and typically came home not quite with as much as we'd dropped off, but there was always some useful
bits and pieces. But you'd fossic around in the tip site and all the rest of it. It ain't like that anymore to some degree, but we still as a as a country and certainly as an industry, the building industry are shockingly wasteful. We send so much material to landfill. So if you have a look in Auckland anyway, this is where I know the figures about fifty percent of the volume of material that goes to landfill comes from
the construction sector, right, so it's construction demolition waste. That's an appalling statistic, to be blunt, fifty percent of the volume of material going to landfill comes from construction, where what ten twelve percent of the economy maybe even a little bit less. So we're punching well above our weight, and it's an appalling statistic. And there's lots and lots
of material that can be reused. Right So when I say Resource Recovery Center, and this Texter picks up on this, so I'll read the text resource recovery center in italics or quote marks rather yet another example of the bullshit woke industry that's driving this country to disaster. Did you know that lawnmowers are now called a state maintenance or lawn mowers are now called state maintenance executives. Okay, put that aside. Resource recovery and resource recovery centers is not woke.
Resource recovery is really really important unless we intend to spend all of our time trucking off perfectly good materials to dump in somebody's valley and bury it there for the next couple of thousand years. So the fact that you know, when I go to the resource recovery center and I put my timber in a pile because that can be recovered. I put my metal in a pile
and that can be reused. And I take my plastic and put that in the pile because that can be recycled, whether it's pipes or soft plastics or numbers.
What is it?
One, two and five. If I take my green wastin and that gets made into compost, or if I take my hard fill and that gets recycled into building materials or hard fill again, all of which gets diverted from landfill. So I know that the Resource Recovery Center that I'm involved with because I sit as a trustee or a board member to administer that center, we're sending with seventy eight percent diversion right from the material that comes in.
That's not woke. It's just being good custodians of the planet, which I think we all should be. And it frustrates the hell out of me to be fair when you look at building sites and you see the amount that is just going to waste and it doesn't need to so at eight woke in my view, to be a good steward of the environment, and also not to be wasteful of a material it's easily recyclable and reusable. There you go, right, I had my rant. Time for you to have the go oh, eight hundred eighty ten eighty
is the number to call. It is six forty seven. Remember too, that in the next hour SOT around seven thirty, j from Razine will be joining us, so he is our painting expert. If you've got any specific painting questions, feel free to text them through and I'll rattle through those with Jay at around seven thirty this morning right now though, time for your calls before the news. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty. Feel free to call me right now, Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty.
Helping you get those DIY projects done right The resident builder with Peter Wolfcat's call, Oh, eight hundred eighty ten eighty, youth talksb.
Your news talks. He'd be righty. Oh, we're talking all things building construction.
Dave. Very good morning, Mitey take them my call, pleasure.
I'm in an old cottage down in Tokoa and I've got to replace some of the weather boards in my house. Yep, it's seventy something years old. I can't buy the weather boards anymore, so I had to try, and I'm going to have to make my own in a another story, So I want to refit some of the weather boards I've taken off.
Yes, And I remember.
Listening to your program a month or so ago and we were talking about it and somebody mentioned something about screws.
Now they use some sort of screws.
Yeah, yeah, interesting, yes, yes, yep, so can you tell Yeah, I was rounded. Actually some friends of ours are doing they're doing an extension in fact, as it happens after today's show. I've got to nip home, grab the trailer, shoot up to a garage and pick up four hundred linear meters of Carrie flooring that's going to go down in their house tomorrow. Actually, so that's my job this afternoon.
But when I was I had a wand around the site the other day and we were chatting and he said, oh, my builder is now fixing the weatherboards with a screw. So it's about a seventy five milli long stainless steel screw and it's got you know, regular thread to drive into the timber, but then the for about fifteen millimeters down from the head, it actually has a counter thread.
So what happens is when as the screw drives through the timber through the weatherboard, it then because you've got the two opposing threads right, they actually draw everything together, so you're not necessarily reliant. And the head is probably maybe half a millimeter or so bigger than a jolt head screw, right, So it's a little Talk's head screw, so completely round, smooth on the outside with the driver bit the Talks driver that fits into the inside of it.
And so I think that when it goes in, it won't actually look that much different to a counter sun called count a punched jolt head nail, as you would expect to see. So no, it's just essentially a shank. It's just a straight head, right, so from the surface it just comes straight it does it to be fair, if you held it up next to a seventy five mil jolt head nail, it wouldn't actually look that different.
Yeah, do you know what they're called and where to get them from?
Well, I know that his builder has probably picked them up from Devonport Timber. But I would say that you'll find them almost anywhere. I'll have a quick look online and see and the this is difficult me too. So I was there the other night having a look at something and I'm wandering around. There's one lying on the ground. So I picked it up and put in a pocket, and I've got it sitting on my desk at home.
And I'm going to need to take these weather boards on. Yeah, I appealing, And.
Look, I actually think I can see the purpose. I can see the usefulness of it and the fact that it's a little bit like with roofing screws now so roofing screw for corrugated or long run will have a counter thread at the top which pulls the product up against the neoprene washer and this will work the same way. So we've got used to screwing down decking, and I guess the next extension is to fix cladding with it.
And the project that I've got coming up, which is to replace all of the tongue and groove decking on a Verandah, I'm just weighing up whether or not I will do the same thing use these because the holding power potentially is greater.
I'm just relying on the head.
Yeah, that's right. Look if you wander and you'll find them. And I'll try and find a name or something like that, or maybe signon or text me what I did.
Ask it a large retailer a few days ago and I've never heard of it.
Yeah, there'll be a blanklet. What you have to do, This is my secret tip to going to these large stores is you look around for the oldest person on the team. Right, they'll know everything.
Second question, if I may, should I be putting a ceilant in the where they lap?
Ah?
What profile weather boarder is it? Roughly? Is it just like a square dress board.
No, it's got a miter overlap on it.
Oh okay, yes, I would either subadhesive or if you use something like fix all, then that acts as an adhesive and a ceilant. So if I have a moist mighty join, I would prime, prime, and seal the edges. Let that dry thoroughly, and then I would put a beat of ceilant push them together. Not too tightly, because boards will always move. I'd rather just have them neatly butting against each other. A bead of seilant in there, strike that off and that'll be a nice joint. Good
luck for that mate. All the mess you, Dave, take care. And I guess the other thing I was going to say is, you know, if he's really stuck, Typically some guys will be able to machine exact copies of your weatherboards. They can set up the full sider spindle molder and do that. Back after the.
News twice, God was but maybe call Pete first for your wolfgab the resident builder News Talk said be.
Just prior to the news, we were chatting with Dave about the weatherboard repair job that he's got going on, and I had happened to mention the fact that I've been around to a mate's place who's doing a reasonable size extension alterations to their house, and the builders they're fixing a rusticated weatherboard, so I fairly traditional profile. We're using screws instead of nail, so conventionally with you know, seventy five mil jolt head galvanized bang those in job done.
And then I mentioned that they were using a screw and we were talking about that, and the screw, funnily enough, is called a jolt screw. So just like you have a jolt head nail, you now have jolt screws. And I'm just tossing up whether I'm going to use those to fix down the tongue and groove decking, which is going to be painted, so I've got to fill all the holes once it's down. And I did some quick numbers because I'm trying to figure out how much it's
all going to cost. I've got forty eight boards and i got five rows of joists. I think from memory it's two hundred and forty times two to two screws per each, four hundred and eighty screws to fix down, and I'm looking on the website. I found one manufacturer, one supplier, so pack of five hundred and seventy dollars ninety eight cents. It's not bad, probably worth doing. Actually, I'll let you know how I get on. Although I think i'll these ones are gal by the look of it.
I might go for stainless just because I can. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty and a couple of interesting texts around the resource recovery and my comments and why we rant on that For the person that said, oh, resource recovery, it's all just woke this text quickly morning Pete yep couldn't agree more about resource recovery. Unfortunately, some of the knuckle draggers whose words not mine. Unfortunately, some of the knuckle draggers literally don't have the brain needed
to process the facts. Easier to just disagree with grand agree with Grandad and moan about any change what's always done, to wake up and listen to your conversation about being a good citizen, and then to translate that to woke that I don't actually understand what woke is, but the real angry guy at the pub shouts at a lot, so they reckon it must mean something bad infuriates them to the point that they insult the host when they know you're winning.
Bro.
Oh, that's a fabulous text. Thank you very very much for that. I'm happy to be, you know, to have a discussion around this, but I do, and I you know, it's an area that I've been interested in for a while. I just think we're terribly waste and I'm talking about you know, builders and construction. I think just shockingly wasteful. Right. And I was sitting in the traffic a couple of months ago, and you know, because I do this work, I am involved with the Resources Recovery Center in Devonport.
That I'm sitting there, and there was there was another trade next to me in the traffic with a cage trailer full to the brim of material from building site. And I kind of I figured out that where he was going was essentially a transfer station. It's nothing necessarily wrong with that. But I looked at all that material in the trailer and I thought, Ah, there's some timber, there's some cardboard, there's some old plaster board, all of which could be diverted from landfill. Why the hell aren't
you doing it. I was, apart from sitting in the traffic which makes everybody angry. That doubly made me angry. I waite hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number to call before I have another rant. And remember, at around seven thirty this morning, we'll grab Jay from Razine. And I asked a all my questions when he called me on Friday, So it's your turn to ask painting questions of Jay from Razime. We'll do that at around
seven thirty. Just send them through on the text nine to nine two Peter, good morning and welcome.
Thank you, Pet and friends.
You I missed your rand unfortunately.
But it was pretty mild. To be fair, that text, though, was a perla that was fantastic, Right, how can we help? What's up? What's up?
I was gonna say here, old house with faded powder coated joinery and urban mess has said that there's some methods that you used to use, some sort of cutting compound or the light to actually restore it. Have you had an experience in that?
My experience has pretty much been that I'd hand it over to the professionals. Right, And so a little while ago I went and had a chat with In fact, he's going to join next week. Briefly, Daniel from Nanoclear. So nanoclears around the country and I've seen what they do. So if you imagine you're staring at your old aluminium joinery at the moment, take the beads out, take the
glass out. In some cases, prep the area properly, apply a proper coating, so recolor the joinery to what you want, apply a clear coat over the top of that that will protect it, replace the rubbers if need be, and then reinstall the glazing. So you know by comparison, and I know I'll get text in a moment saying hey, you know you can use a rubbing compound. You can use that, this, that and the other thing. Yeah, you probably can, and you'll get a slightly better appearance than
what you've got now. But I think in terms of actually getting a really professional job, I would I would get a professional applicator in and the ones that I know a little bit about is Nanoclear, so that you know, look at it. It's up to you, but do you look at it as a cost or as an investment, And if you're prepared to invest the money, then I think getting a professional to do it probably serves you quite well.
Thanks very much for that.
That would be my approach anyway. And you know how I don't know what color your joinery is, but you know, back in the seventies, eighties, nineties and that people had a habit of going, you know, funky colors and that sort of thing. You can get rid of all of that, and you know, if you add that to some double glazing, then suddenly you've got much better joinery. Excellent, All the very best to you. Take care see. But getting quite a few texts on the whole resource recovery, waste minimization,
et cetera, et cetera, et cetera. This is an interesting one. Would be great if some of the leftover building materials could be purchased by others for small projects like sheds or sleepouts. Nikki, that's exactly what resource recovery centers do, I think in Auckland anyway. And these are around the country, right, so in some cases there's still like in Auckland, for example, there is the Community Recycling Network or Community Recycling Centers CRCs,
which are independent but still effectively owned by council. I think I'm getting this right, but run locally and locally administered, so you can go to any number of them around the Auckland area, and I'm sure this is across the country. And rather than all of the material being tipped into a hole or tipped into the back of a skip and taken off to transfer station or directly to landfill, the teams will go through pull out useful pieces of timber and then they'll put those aside again. You know
my experiences. You can go in and buy timber for a dollar a meter, right, and there'll be little bits of or there'll be decent pieces actually of some rough sor and six two tantalized that you can use for a garden bed or a planter box or a bit of garden edging or something like that. Doors, windows, hardware. You know, all of this material is taken out of the waste stream, so it's processed at the center, taken out, set aside, and you can buy old palings, old doors,
old bits of framing, timber, architraves. All of these sorts of things will be taken out once it's been delivered to the site by you as the consumer, taken out and made available for people. So yeah, it is actually happening. You just got to have a look around and try and find those places, but they are out there. Nikki, thank you very much for your text. Someone else, just on the same thing, what do you do with disposing of old plasterboard. You're calling it jib, which is fair enough,
but plasterboard is kind of the generic term. There's a couple of processes. There's a company that there's two processes. Basically, one is essentially just collect it, tip it into the ground and cover it and leave it for about a year or so and then uncover it. In that time, all of the paper has dissolved and what you're left with is the gypsum, which can then be recycled as
part of agriculture, is part of fertilizer. There's a slightly more scientific process now where some of the large recycling firms are able to I'm pretty sure that Green Gorilla and Auckland do this. They've got essentially a large centrifuge. So the waste plaster board is put into there, it's spun, it spins off the paper, it leaves you with the gybsum. The gybsum can go for processing for fertilizers and in agriculture. It's as simple as that. You know, it's completely recoverable,
so there's to be fair. I don't actually believe in zero waste as a concept. You know, when I'm sweeping up the stuff that's on the floor of my workshop, I'm thinking, for all the goodwill in the world. I don't know who wants that or could use that for anything. But when I went the other day with some timber, some plaster board, some off cut metal, a little bit of green waste, you know, some offcuts from pipework and that sort of thing. Everything I've just listed there doesn't
have to go to landfill. You just need to take it somewhere where they're going to look after it. Oh, eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call. Quite a few texts too on the venting, so we'll come to that in the moment, but right now your opportunity to have your say, eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call back in a.
Moment doing other house extorting.
The garden asked Pete for a hand the resident builder with Peter Wolfcap call eighty eight us dogs V.
I got to say, y, I just despair, right, So I get this text Pete. One reason people just dump everything is because the people at work at the recycling centers are usually not pleasant to deal with. They usually just grunt and point at the christ Church sites. I really do to spare it that text. So you know the person whose job it is to fossic through your rubbish, you're complaining that maybe they're not the most pleasant person
to deal with when you do the bloody job. Then oh, eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number to call. It's twenty minutes after seven. If you've got a question about a building nature, of any building nature, you can call us. Now remember too, about ten minutes away from j from Razim joining us. Any specific painting questions are the texts that came in. I'm wanting to build a luvered purglar goola outside on my deck against my boundary fence,
as I understand it my local council rules. As I understand my local council rules, I'll need a resource consent building two different things so close to the boundary, considering it's easily dismantled structure. Should I just make sure my neighbors are harry happy and not tell the council. Of course, you're entitled to do that well, you're not entitled, but
you could try and do that. So typically the things that would trigger possibly a resource consent, but most definitely a building consent is the proximity to the boundary and the fact that what you're building has got a roof on it, even if it's luvid and which might mean that you could close it. And it's more about the proximity to the boundary, because chances are if it's on a deck against the boundary, the deck's already a couple
of one hundred mil off the ground. Add a two point two to two point four structure to that, you'd be getting pretty close to heightened relation to boundary and the proximity to the boundary. So typically you're allowed to build structures that if they fell over, wouldn't fall onto the neighbors. Kind Of my really simple interpretation of the legislation around planning rules that if it falls over, it's
ownly going to land on your property. If it's right on the boundary and it's tall, that falls over, it could land on your neighbors. So yes, I think that what you are proposing would probably need a building consent. It may not need a resource consent unless you're in a heritage zone or something like that, or your exceeding site coverage. But generally I think it'll certainly require a
building consent. Another text that came through is there a requirement to have a turning area down a drive to a back section.
Yeah.
Typically all of the consents that I've seen for sort of subdivisions. Let's say where there's been one house and there's now three, or sections are being combined and there's a right of way which gives access to a rear property. If there's parking, there will need to be the provision for the vehicle to get into the garage and then be able to reverse out and drive out onto the road nose first. So that's typically the requirement. Some of the turning angles are not particularly wide and in some
cases not interesting. There was on fair Go a couple of years ago where someone bought a property down a right of way had a garage turning area, but they found that their car physically wouldn't be able to fit in or turn around. So planners work on a sort of I think it's like a ninety percent of vehicles
are likely to fit in here type rule. But yeah, generally, if you've got a right of way that gives access to a rear property, there needs to be provision for the car to reverse out of the garage or parking area and drive out forwards, not having to reverse down a long right of way. In some cases you can achieve that by having a turntable, but they are a little bit uncommon in most subdivisions to be fair. But thanks very much for the question, Carol, great question from you.
How are you this morning?
Well, I'm always happy on a Sunday. I like your program in the car. I think program. Well, I didn't want to phone in, but it may help somebody. How would you suggest a p before you pay the painter and decorator. It's the final payment and it's completed the painting. You know job that you have, How would you know.
That it's a good job. It's a great question.
I know the answer, but understand Okay.
I guess if you feel that you don't have the experience, then I guess there's two avenues. One is if the person happens to be a member of, for example, the Master Painters Association, you could ask the Master Painters to send out a representative to assess effectively their members work. That would be one way of doing it. If the painter has used a particular brand of paint, you could then ask a representative from that company to come and do it and to be fair. And I'm happy to
ask Jay this. I know when we've spoken, he will often be asked to go and have a look at at a paint finish. You know, the painter has done a job, they've used Razine paints, maybe the client's not happy with it, and so they'll ring Razine and one of their reps. And it's the same with Bryce. He will often end up saying, look, I had to go and look at a job where you know, maybe someone's maybe someone's a client like yourself, is not happy. And
the painter says, well, it's the paint's problem. And you know, maybe the rep from the company goes out looks it and goes, actually, it's all about the application. It's a poor application, or there's bad preparation, or they haven't done two coats, or they haven't used the right product and that's why it's not good. So yeah, those, broadly speaking, those would be the two ways of doing it.
Well, I'll tell you a simple way and I'm quite concerned about the tradesmen who don't know have the job completed. Recommended by Razine who The painter was my son who did a eight thousand hour apprenticeship in the New Zealand Army as a painter and decorator. All he did was he went in. He just put the palm of his hand on the wall and he ran the palm of his hand down. He said, m'am, this painter and decorator has not done good preparation because it was all prety underneath.
So he's painted because I'm my owner. He's painted here for me.
Oh you want to run.
Your hand down the paintmentish? Now it's a smooth that's the way to do it.
Can I Can I be a bit cheeky and ask if your son's an eight thousand hour qualified painter and decorator, how come he didn't do it in the first place.
Well, there were reasons.
He was in Auckland.
I really don't like mixing business.
I'm not joking with family.
It's quicker for me as to get the painter and decorator and he goes home for the day. But I certainly do anything for me. They stay for a weekend across me a fortune to people.
The old lady.
No, no, I think it's delightful to be fair. But yeah, look in terms of you know, to answer your question, I think that if you if you're you're concerned about the quality of the work done, didn't know, then then if someone is a master painter or they're part of that group, you could get one of you or get a rep from the company. That's a great question.
That's the point before you pay the final payment. I'm saying anyone out there on their own light men to get someone and just to give you a final And look, you.
Know, I've deliberately stayed away from saying, you know, get another painter to check the work, because it's hard for people. I think it's hard for people to be impartial about other people's work. Right, So potential, please, how simple it was?
He just Rainy's that's right, said the preparations good?
It was greasy that that.
Yeah, no, good point. Appreciate the call, Carol. You have a great day to take care of them, Zia. Actually great texts coming through two round extraction ventilation. We'll have a look at that, right, we might well take a short break we've got Jay waiting. We're going to rattle through your texts. Still time for a couple more texts on nine two nine two, so zbzb from your mobile phone. Any of you painting specific painting questions, Jay will join us in just a.
Moment, whether you're painting with ceiling, fixing with fens, or wondering how to fix that hole in the wall.
Give Peter wolf Gabber call on.
Eighty the resident builder on news Dogs B.
Indeed you were with news Talk, said beat as seven thirty two and this is my great pleasure as always to welcome to the program, Jay from Razine. How you doing, Jay, I'm.
All good, mat How are you?
Yeah?
Not too chevy? Not too chevy? And can we just pick up on that last caller actually who said, Look, how do I know if I've got a good paint job? So you know, let's say you're a client and you engage a painter and they come and do a job, and you're about to sign you know, the check for the last payment, and you're kind of wondering, is it any good like? Have they done a good job? What would what would your advice be?
Look at it? Usually if if the if the paint looking a bit see through, or you're concerned about the coverage, it usually needs a bit more paint. Yes, So if things are looking a little bit light in areas, then potentially it might just need another another coat on there.
And there are things that go with that critical like in cause an issue with things looking like it needs more paint, But it's really the design of the bill, or the time of the day with the light coming through windows or shining down stairwells.
Yes.
Or if it's a textured surface, it can look like there's not enough paint on there, when in fact there's plenty. It's just a texture. But I said, generally, if it looks a little bit thin and you're a bit concerned, speak about in and I'll generally put another coat on.
Right, Okay, awesome, that's great. So we've got a bunch of texts to rip through, so in no particular order. That's an interesting one. The text is very brief. My deck doesn't get a lot of sun. Do I need to stay.
Well, I'd imagine it probably needs to clean. If it's not getting much sun. There's like this a bit of moisture and potential mold and might be a little bit slippy. Generally, applying a stain will help with sort of mold in fung the end stuff sort of an algae building up on the surface.
Yep.
And it's also kind of helps protect the actual timber itself and help preserve it. So I would say yes, But again, lots of people do like that sort of natural silver look at the timber.
Until they get all the mold growth and then they go oh okay, which leads me nicely into my next question. An existing Quela decking twenty years so that it's known right, well, it's still sound, but it is standing to crack, do you recommend painting for longevity? And if yes, what paint system? This is from Chris? Can I add maybe we should well, I mean, yes, you could paint it, but almost nobody would it. Typically with hard.
Words you would stay yeah, I would say stain it right. Obviously, timber expands and contracts for a year anyway, and if you've got splits and cracks, they expand and contract at different rates. So if you paint it, chances are that clack's going to become pretty visible fairly quickly, especially with if you look at the summer we've just had in
the rain we've sort of got yesterday. The timber will be moving all over the place at the moment, whereas stain, you're not going to see that sort of flakiness and break down that you get a paint around those areas. So if you stay in it, I think it will look better.
Yeah.
Again, it's kind of personal preference. Some people prefer the look of paint, I'm very much or timber stain. It it looks really good.
Yeah. Well, and I think maintenance wise, long term, certainly stain is possibly more maintainable as in a thorough clean and a reapplication of the same system is possibly simpler than standing prepping, you know, top coding with a paint finish.
Yeah, yeah, and obviously stained, so you have to restain every couple of years, every two to three summers. But I mean you need to really clean it every year so you can kind of see in judge for how it's looking. And just realistically, if you keep up with just supply another coat staying every couple of years, it looks good and the timber last longer.
Yeah, absolutely right. Susie sent through a text good morning, which is nice. Is there any way to paint kitchen cupboards that have laminate on them, just trying to refresh a kitchen from Susie.
Yeah, we've got a few different systems. I think Ze master Stroke has a couple of videos from a couple of X Block contestants doing their kitchen and another DJ from a different radio stations as well.
Think is the preparation in the first coat the key in terms of literally the keys and keying into that surface.
Yeah, it's the first goat. Is the sort of a degent coat that's going to really bind the whole system together. And then top coat options. There's a couple of different ones. Realistically, the best system you're looking at a two pot system just for longevity obviously, like there's a you could use Lusticra and a Namakrell, but with cleaning and constant use,
it's going to lead it needs a lot more maintenance. Sure, so there's sort of two pot industrial coatings a little bit better for durability, but it obviously takes a bit more preparation and just a little bit more knowledge around mixing the product and applying it, and you need a bit more smell.
Right in application. If you did go down the two pot and you've got a large flat surfa. It's like a drawer front or a door. Would you roll or brush?
Uh?
Generally brush? Yeah, sorry, generally you brush sort of the edges and stuff, but most people end up rolling it. Yeah, you just got to be careful. You apply the product and then lay it off in one direction, so it just helps smooth it all out. And look, look even in you.
Gotcha brilliant, right Marty texts Hey, guys, question for j please. I have a commercial diamond deck roof, so a long run metal profile with extensive surface rust. Ideally I'd like to get a few more years out of it. Would there be a product to slow or stop the rusting process from Mardi?
Realistically, with rust, you've got to kind of we've got three m RUSS removal pads to go on, sort of mechanical tools to stand it and remove it. Yeah, you really want to remove it. If you just try and put something over it, it's still there and it's going to not go anywhere, just get worse. I suppose, yes, So ideally you want to be removing all the rust before you apply anything. It depends on a lot of
the time. With the roofs, it's just a bit of surface rust that you can tend to remove with like a three M scarm pad or a RUSS removal pad. We've got a couple of different products you could spot prime those areas with. You've got armor X ruff seeler, We've got GP metal primers another did one go over it? The best system that we tend to recommend for roofs in that sort of condition is, again it's back to
industrial product, but animastic. It's two port that just ends up extending the life of the roof.
Okay, that's cool in that way, but again, take.
Take pictures into a color shop, share the staff, ask for some advice.
I send you a picture of my garage roof which looks more red than steel. Maybe I'll flick through talking about painting roofs. But this is slightly different. So nineteen ninety six are almost thirty year old color steel or a coated roof, not in bad condition, but there is some oxidation. What's the prep? And I know there's a specific primer for color steel or coated products.
So best prep is it reallys a real good clean to remove that oxilosation in any surface contaminants. So we've got razine paint prep in the house.
Wash that.
You know, people just get up there with the water blaster, but you really need to agitate the clean on the surface to remove that oxidization right. Then washed down and then yes, the primer is resin pre coated steel primer, which is it's sort of white in color, so more and more people are starting to go lighter colors, so it's just good to help with coverage with that, and then top coat summit roof.
Oh yeah, okay, perfect, but it's.
Lots of roof questions at the moment.
Yeah, yeah, and I guess too. You know, people are looking at a roof that's getting to the end of its life, thinking if I can eke it out a few more years. It's not a bit.
Yeah my roofs for nineteen ninety two. Yep, it's looking like I get it cleaned yearly. But I'm starting to think about realistically it should start looking at painting it just so much longer.
Yeah.
Yeah, and I guess this is that classic thing around paint surfaces is often we wait until they've degraded and then we maintain them. Whereas I think what you're saying is that you know, you know where this is heading, right, we're on a particular path. Why not get ahead of that and before the roof or the painted surface or your windows and that are really in poor condition. Do the maintenance a little bit earlier and that will stop some of that long term damage. Is kind of how I would say that.
Like regular cleaning and maintenance just makes everything last longer.
Yeah, yeah, absolutely right.
Oat.
Now, fifty year old cedar vertical above a garage door too soft to scrape off the old paint, so they used a heat gun. They've got some oil based primer peel off in places. Question one, how do I get the failed primer off? In two? What new primer to use? Fifty year old seat?
You might have a couple of issues if you're not careful. I suppose we've got a paint stripper called Sea to Sky, which is a gel based, water based paint stripper.
Yep.
It's easier to control, especially on sort of vertical surfaces because it's gel. It kind of sits there a bit more rather than a lot of paint strippers a lot more liquid and just run down. Yeah, anything you're going to kind of do is with it being fifty year old and really, you've got pretty high potential of you're going to have to be careful so you don't really gouge and damage to see that. Sure once you get it off, I mean if it's failing as well, it
might start coming off quite easily. H Obviously, sandings hard because it just kind of clogs up the paper pretty quickly. So this kind of seed the sky to strip it, and then you would be using razine wood primer, an oil based primer.
Okay, I'm just sinking at the time. I think we can race through these two. Thanks for that. What product do we use to paint and seal the inside of a concrete water tank? I mean, would you have to go there or would you use them? Yeah? If you were going to paint it, what would you do?
Well?
Sort of none of our decorative paints. I suppose the water going to be held inside.
This, I to speak, So I wonder if it's for drinking, use you you'd want to go for a bladder or something like that.
I think, yeah, I would the same with paint in the outside. You've got share seal and lumbersider to sort of go on the outside, but generally there's so much moisture involved with it, the paint ends up breaking down, it ends up looking quite a mess. That's why most of them aren't painted, and you end up putting up screens or sort of foliage or something on the outside to cover it, or just leave it. I mean, you can paint it, but it will need maintenance, all right.
Last one this morning morning, got an old wooden garage folding door. So I presume probably like a cedar, I would say, if it's an older one, the old paint's flaking off, should I scrape it down? Should I use an oil based undercoat and top coat, or would a good stain be sufficient to protect the wood.
Stain?
All of the razine stains are penetrating, so you need to remove anything that's film forming on the surface. A lot of the time with those garage doors, it could be that was stained previously and then somebody's just chucked a coat of paint on and it's not compatible and that's why it's flaking and coming off. Okay, so again you'd be back to kind of a paint stripper to remove what's on there, or depending on how the timber is,
you could stand it. And then if everything's been removed, if you're going to stain it, you could stain it with one of the Woodsman states, or if you're going to paint it, you're back to Razine wood primer and then probably lust the crewl over the top.
I'm gonna hold you for one more question because it's such a doozy morning. Can you please explain why the paint on our house, the timber house is cracking After a few months of application. We sanded, primed, and painted. The splitting. Crazing is an areas where the house gets full sun. Gee, what do you think?
I suppose it's again. If you've got pictures, you could send them through or the advice line on the Razine website, or go in to your local shop. A lot of the time like that, it's back to after this summer. There's a lot of timber movement. If there's splits and cracks along the grain of the timber, it's likely to be the timber itself that's moving right, and that's what's
causing the paint to crack. If it's kind of crazy cracking, it could be the top coat's gone over the oil based primer too soon, and that's kind of effect of the paint really, it's a couple of things. It might be, especially if it's only on that side with the sun. Yes, it could be the it was too hot at the time of painting and that's affected the paint as it's gone on. But if you take some pictures and go into the color shop and they might be able to give you a bit more advice.
Brilliant, brilliant. Thank you Jay as always, you know you get a busy day, have a great day. Thank you and news talks. He'd be that's j from Razine Color Shops, and I think he's absolutely spot on there. If you do have a particular question like that previous texture around, you know, failure of the paint system within seemingly a couple of months, take some photographs, you know on our phones these days, wander on and seek a bit of
professional advice from the team at the Razine Color Shops. Right, oh to seven forty seven. We're taking your calls. Eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call. Someone's just quickly text through. Had the same problem. It was the wrong primer. Interesting now that may or may not be the case, but yeah, interesting, oh eight hundred eighty
ten eighty the number to call. We're taking your calls all things building construction, and we did, as response to a couple of texts, talk a little bit about waste minimization. This is a bit of a it's going to say it's a buzzword. It shouldn't be. It's not a buzzword.
This is I think this is really important, right, and I think going forward, one of the things that we're likely to see I hope actually on building consents and so on going forward is questions from clients or architects, or specifiers or project managers to contractors, how are you managing your waste right? Like do you have a process in place? Do you have a system where you go, you know, I collect up the cardboard boxes from all the light fittings and I make sure that that gets recycled.
Or if you're a plumber, do you keep your PVC offcuts which are recyclable and send them somewhere for recycling or deliver them to a center that does recycling. You know, if you're doing demolition, do you try and separate out some of the materials and those items that can be recycled or repurposed? Do you send those away for that rather than just sending everything to landfall, which I think is appalling to be blunt. Oh eight hundred eighty ten
eighty is the number to call. It's eleven minutes away from eight o'clock. Call us now, oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty. Squeaky door or squeaky floor?
Get the right advice from Peter Wolfcare, the resident builder on Newstalk SB.
Just another quick text on the painting, because I've just done this myself another job. Get a pigmented, sealed and then sanded new jib in a bathroom? Can I put two or three coats of mold protected top coat, like a low sheene on the ceilings and the walls, all one color from Chris. Have a look at what I use just last year, razine velvet, which is a water born enamel with It's a relatively flat product in terms
of sheen, but it's got the durability. I think that sometimes using a really flat product on the walls, particularly in an area that gets a bit of you know, steam and so on in a bathroom, sheene typically gives you protection, right, It's more durable. So what I used was the velvet room velvet. It's called and it worked really really well on the ceiling, so maybe that's a better option than trying to do too much flat around the room. Grant Greetings, A.
Face the team, right Corn. Sure, I've got a seepage problem, and it's coming from I've bought the house, so I know you read part of it.
Yep.
But I just want to know that I'm a builder, d Mayer. I just want to know that what I'm doing is I'm on the right track. So I've got old concrete wall wing wall at the end of the house, and the garage is on top yep. And down down the bottom con set the first floor is a bathroom and then on the corridor is wardrobe.
Yep.
Now, the water that I found seeping through came through the wardrobe because the bathroom is tiled floor or the proof got it the meat sheets. So it's not going to come out, That's what I'm feeling. It's not going that. I know behind there will be bed but I only can see it in the wardrobe. What I've done, I've gone upstairs and I've uncovered the outside of the wall and I've seen what I've done. Now tank and I'll
perfect drainage against it. Everything's done what I think has done to the code properly.
Just a bit of a hard life will leave the pain.
Sure. So the block wall around the perimeter is part of it below ground, so it's acting as a retaining wall.
Yes, now it's not exactly a block wall. I've done it with old shut I've done it with the shutters.
Okay, so cast wall.
Yep, it's solid cock red wall and it's underground, right side buried, and it's ten it's got one hundred mill of drainage for storrowing up against it right around the wall. But what what I've done it. Also on top of that wall is my portal a floor from the kitchen. It goes out three meters, it connects to the top of that wall and then shoots out with another fourteen
going around the kitchen. So in my own right, because you put the you put your your your BBC paper or your black paper as you do, underneath the concrete and bring it up.
Stay on.
Just that we're going to run into the into the news. And just a moment, I wonder whether instead of looking for leaks that might be coming through the wall, I wonder whether you should look at flashings and junctions above it and see whether that's where water is coming from as well. You know, if you've got if you think the waterproofing's good, and you've got drainage coil of some description and it's actually draining properly, then I wonder whether
it's a leak coming from somewhere else. So I'd spend my time looking at flashings back after the.
Break, helping you get those DIY projects done right. The resident builder with peta Wolfcat call, oh eight eighteen, you've talked Zva.
Well, a very good morning. Welcome back to the show. My name's pig Wolf Campus is the resident builder. On Sunday, we're going to change gears as we always did about eight thirty this morning, a red Climb Past will be joining us. We can talk all things gardening in the wonderful world of bugs from eight thirty, but right now we're talking building and actually just listening to the weather
forecast for Auckland. Anyway, pretty fine day, which is good because I've got to race home, grab the trailer, shoot up to a garage and pick up four hundred meters. I think of Carrie Tongue grew flooring that I've been storing for a mate who's getting guys into lay it tomorrow for an extension, So right, I'm going to do that, and then I might fossick around in my own workshop and finish painting my one hundred and forty odd meters of tongue and groove decking that I want to prime
before I start fixing that down. So alright, yoh, I hope you haven't rest for Sunday. I don't think I will be, but that's all right. Oh eight hundred and eighty ten eighty the number to call and Peter, good morning.
Good morning, Peter, greetings, thanks for waving. You're you're welcome. I loved down in Moscow to some land from Dunedin. You've been in the house over thirty years and I learned in the nineties that had to use oil based primer on wood and then a couple of coats of acrylic over top of it. But the most I could get out of it was about eight to ten years before it would start to deteriorate. And only what I've
got is on facial boards and Dutch gables. Everything else, the block work, the facial boards, particularly on this on the garage which was close to a neighbor's hawthorn hedge. The timber would start to split a weave at lengthways well the paint. The paint would appear to have cracks in it, but I think it was a timber moving. And about two years ago I had some I've grabbed some leftover linear board that I had from an extension
down about eight years earlier. I had kept in another garage out of the weather, and I took the flashing off the Dutch gable and put this linear board up instead of the two hundred milimeter timber. I do not think the linear board might have been one eighty. But at the medicals are flashing cover cover the gap at
the top, and it seems perfect. And I'm wondering what your thoughts are on it because the rest of the spature that holds the spouting where the horse on headge was, there's been borer and it needs replace.
I'm just thinking, typically, if we're installing facia, we've got a safite, right, So do you have a safita at all.
On the back of the garage. It's not right the frontiers. It's a block rough car coated garage.
Yeah, I'm with you. Now I'm just thinking. You know, like in most applications, you'd have a facier board that's outboard of the framing, and then you'll have a bit of safita And typically facial board's got a groove in it that allows you to drop the safita in and the linear might not. And I guess the other thing is linear is only up to four point eight meters, so if you've got you know, five meter gable, you've got to join, which you might not get if you
a long length. But look in terms of durability and if it works for you, all power to you. O.
I think it's a three car garage, so it's yeah to be joined anyway.
That just makes many.
But it seems to be very durable when you're aboard. Absolutely a life stand on it or is it?
Well? I mean, look in terms of durability, it would have a minimum warranty requirement of fifteen years, but I think given how inherently stable fiber cement is, you could expect it to last a lot longer than that, particularly if you keep up with your coatings right. So I think when you start reading through the fine print of almost any exterior product, it often relates to coatings. And interestingly enough, I'm working another project which is a little
bit related to weather tightness and durability. Right, and so I've had some building surveyors survey the building to prepare a report and they've also made recommendations. And it's interesting reading through it. And you know, the report's quite extensive, runs to thirty or forty pages, and it's interesting to see how much focus they put on the quality of
the coatings and the maintenance of it. That almost regardless of what exterior product you might use, if you don't keep up the maintenance of it and particular coatings, it just won't perform.
Yes, I had a fifty square meter edition done on the house of it. Next with this dreat linear came from yeah now the builder. Sorry, go ahead, the builder. I assisted on one of them, and you'll leave to start off with them, be you well. They are quite long spainsstel screws hold the linear board on. Is it a benefit to do that because the extension has been perfect, the paint hasn't deterror at all.
I might do a bit to.
Wash annually or great two years yep. As the benefit in using the screws movement goes.
I know typically with the linear actually, as best I understand it's designed actually well, when the last time I used it, which was a few years ago, one of the benefits well, we could use it for a garage wall that was close to the boundary, so it gets a bit of fire rating as well. But in this particularly when I installed it, we only fixed through the top of the board right, so you didn't put any fixing through the bottom at all, and that seemed to work.
If you do have to fix through the bottom of the board, then yeah, jolt screws have become a real thing over the last couple of years. I haven't had a chance to do that yet, but I've got this decking job to do. It's a replacement for some LSOP treatment decking that's failed. So I've got to pull the existing tongue and groove up and relay it. And I've bought new tongue in groove decking that's h three point two treated. I'm pre priming it and then I'm thinking
I'll use jolt screws. Have a look for them online to fix it down with, because I think the binding, you know, the actual because they've got a counter threads, so they are actually drawing the two surfaces together. I can see the advantage of that. Check it out online, Peter, we've got to move on much. Appreciate it and good luck with that. Jillian, A very good morning to you.
Yes, good morning teach. Hey there regarding waste minimalization. Yes, I've been watching a building getting demolished and it was miss about fifty years ago. So I've got a couple of questions. The roofing tiles. Are they reusable after fifty years?
Often what will happen is they'll go to a demolition yard and people will buy them for repairs, right, So there's a value to that. The other thing is if they don't end up going and being resold, so there's a way of making some money out of them. They can be taken to plants that will crush them and turn them back into aggregate. It's really in some cases
it can't necessarily crazy. Thing right now is that you're not allowed to use recycled material in new structural concrete to the best of my ability knowledge, right, you can use it for things like we've got them at the center large concrete blocks that we use as barriers. Right, So inter block for example, So they'll take old concrete, crush it and reuse it in a they make new
concrete from it. But because it's nonstructural as such, you can use it there or you can use it just for hard felt, so again it doesn't need to go to landfill. It can be repurposed.
Unfortunately, everything's going to learn for all. I think the timbers, the cost of deconstructing building, and obviously the.
Labor cross it's quite high, yep, high and.
Deterrent, and that might be a factor in the quote maybe why it's getting demolished. That's so there has been some recycling going on, and perhaps it's necessary because glass probably can't be mixed with timber and concrete and gone to land.
Or I think ideally if we're doing you know, if we've got an idea around reducing the amount of material that goes to landfill at site, is when ideally you should be separating it, right so rather than I mean, there are commercial recyclers and recycling centers like the Resource Recovery in Devenport and the other resource recovery centers right across the country. You can bring a sorted waste in
and they will sort it for you. But I think ideally we should be doing a lot more of that on So so you know, I've been to a cheaper Yeah, I've been to a couple of really well organized sites. So for example, they'll ever been for timber, they'll ever been for hardfill. They might have been that's you know, cardboard and those sorts of things. I went to one commercial site, Naylor Love were doing a large commercial building at a university. They achieved ninety percent diversion from landfill
by sorting on site. A ninety diversion from landfill is a staggering achievement.
Context rules regarding that, do you know.
There are no rules there should be. I agree with no rules, and.
That's what I was concerned about. It thought there obviously are no council rules, and yet councils going through the motions well that they are actually doing modern emotions. But it's not much more in my opinions, because why it's minimization policy. Surely the major removal of houses for city for development, all these materials to go into landfill and the main surely councils should take a lead role in it, and perhaps some rules.
Even if it's not counsel. I think we I mean part of me hesitates to go we need more legislation, right because we shouldn't.
We shouldn't need it. We should be doing it.
I know ideally we should, but I think there's going to be a bit of carrot and stick, right. So I think that if you're a client and you're engaging with a builder or a contractor to do renovations, one of the questions I think you should be asking now
is what are you doing with the waste? Right? And a lot of builders that I know are equally passionate or engaged in this process, and they'll say, look, we'll use this particular company because they recycle or they divert or this is my process, this is what I do. But I think as clients we should be asking that question. As contractor costs, Yes, there is a cost, but you know there's also a cost to us just sending all of this material to landfill, right, whether that's an environmental cost,
cost of transport, et cetera, et cetera. And you know we're looking at and there's just and this tremendous waste, right, So this is one of the benefits, for example, of off site manufacture where processes that are managed in a factory are often more efficient and have less waste than on site.
Yes, yes, So what could council do as an incentive? Even I don't expect you to have the answer, there's to be some encouragement to people who property developers who want to remove a house and have three builds on the site. There might be some way that could some of the cost.
Possibly there'll be that. I think what we're the more blunt lever is the waste levey, right, So that's a charge per ton of material that goes over away bridge into a transfer station on its way to a landfill that's probably just going to keep going up and up and up.
So at the moment, aren't those landfills are they privately.
Owned or owned almost all of the They're.
Advantage to have as much waste coming in as possible. So would they want to raise a levy?
I mean it's a very.
Good point that you raise. No, if you're in the business of landfills, you know, do you want people diverting? No, you don't. But saying that most of the large companies that are involved in the space are actively trying to reduce waste as well.
Do they want the land they wanted to operate as long as possible, I would imagine, Well, you know, there's also money to be made from waste recovery, right, So you know, if you're if you're charging a couple of hundred bucks for a nine meters skip, right, and then you're taking all of that and paying to dump it somewhere, or you're taking it and you're able to send plasterboard here and timber there, and metal there and cardboard there and plastic there, then you're not having to pay to dump it.
Right, So you know, possibly there's when we say resource recovery, the idea is that all of this material, much of it has another life, and some of it has a financial value. So you know, if local recycling centers are collecting your metal and sending it away, they'll get something for that might not be a lot, but they will get something for it, and it's not going to landfill.
And I think it's just that vision that I have of this vast quantity of material every single day going to landfill, that I'll.
Be no cost for disposing of that under lential either.
Recycling probably is well, that's right, there's there's a cost of recycling as well, but in general, I think we should have had that way, Gillian. I'm going to try and get to a couple of other calls before we go into the garden with red climb pass. Will take a short break. We'll be back with Bobby in just a moment.
Measure twice God was but maybe called Pete first, be the wolf care the resident builder.
News Talk said, be.
Your news Talk said be. We've got shortly, so we'll trot through these I possibly can Bobby. Hello, good morning, Bobby, Thanks for waiting. How are you.
I'm stabulous. I've been sitting here Arma aulling my cow. I've been waiting, so be quite friendous. It something you never get to do. Heson. I was calling about the guy that spoke about the pacola earlier and on the boundary at close to the boundary with his neighbor. Yes, I totally get not wanting to pay for counsel fees.
But for anybody in that sort of similar scenario, getting getting permission from your neighbor is good obviously, But if you want to sell your house, ye, and it'll show them the council records that there's no permit for that particular whatever it is that you put there. Yes, they can either make you take it down or you can try and get it signed off and retrospect, which could cost you a bit of money anyway. But the other
thing is that could actually also affect your insurance. If your pagola, if the roof flies off in a big storm and hits the house next door and damages it quite extensively, you won't have insurance. I'm pretty sure that, so you have to pay for the house next door, as well as the fact that your progoles shouldn't have been there or whatever it is.
Yeah, and I think two banks now look at sort of you know, unauthorized works and that sort of thing, and are often really reluctant to loan on that. So yes, you're right out there and increasingly their risk averse and so having unconsented works. Where we used to take a sort of casual, lay safeer approach to it all, it's just a different environment now.
So yeah, it is really you're better off spending the money, even though it just makes me cringe, but you're better off it's actually getting it complied, and then you can rest assure that.
No matter what I think that's very wise.
Thank you. But the other thing I was ann asked was what was that recycling thing called? Sorry I didn't hear I've heard it earlier and I was driving. I couldn't remember the one where the builders that's and pieces go to get recycled as opposed to use for landfill. What's that call to the places that already?
Yeah, Green Gorilla does it. A couple of other companies do it. I mean green Gril is interesting because they have a large processing plant that does it automatically, right, so their separation happens inside the factory. What I'm involved in, and what we've been talking about, is your local community recycling centers so CRCs, which I'm familiar with in Auckland, but I think around the country there is a network
of them. So there's an exceptional one, for example at Raglan, where I haven't been there yet, but it's it's a really good example of a sort of community run recycling center that's really passionate about reducing the amount of material that goes to landfill and rep purposing recycling existing materials. They're all around the country, so it shouldn't be too hard. We had a couple of techs, someone talking about one in Parmeston all someone else talking about one in christ Church.
Someone complaining about grumpy people at the one in christ Church, which I think is just bloody absurd. But anyway, and you know, so they're out there, right. I think it's just that, I know, consciousness makes people cringe, but I think we're now at a point where we just can't ignore the fact that we just can't keep being as wasteful as we have been. Right and particularly when I
you know, because I'm quite involved. I'm a trustee or I'm a board member of the trust that administers the Devenport Recycling Center, the Resource Recovery Devenport, you know, when you see what we're able to do, and the fact that you know, currently our diversion rates are seventy eight percent of all of the material that comes over the
way bridge, seventy eight percent it's diverted from landfill. So that really it's pretty damn good, I think, you know, yeah, you know, I just the sight of trucks just trundling off into the countryside and tipping stuff into a valley, I just don't think that's great. So we shouldn't be doing it. It's as simple as that.
Thank and Huntly at the old Wedding's mine. And they've got apparently counsel permission to fill in the valleys if you like, they're not actually giving but to fill in the valley. So, like you said, to dump into something, then they have to cover it and they're not allowed to put a fist off them. But what's to say that they don't put you know what I mean?
That happens, but you know, and again, look, I'm not that wooly eyed individual that goes you know, personally, I suppose I should believe in zero waste, but I'm a practical person and I look at what I sweep up from the workshop floor and go, you know, I don't think anyone's really excited about taking that material. Right, So a certain amount is I think, practically speaking, is always
going to end up in landfill. But you know, without too much effort, if you can get to seventy or eighty percent, And I mentioned I've been to a large commercial building done by Naylor Love and Auckland and they achieved ninety percent diversion from landfill. Right takes some effort, but it is possible. So we should be doing it, you know. Right rent Over, I'm going to go into the garden where it's all sweetness and light with rut and we'll talk about this on another day. Jillian, thank
you very much for your comments. Ridioh. Fabulous morning of conversation. Let's get into the garden. Roots on standby, Let's rip into it. If you've got a question for it. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty, the.
Number doing other house sorting the garden asked Pete for a hand the Resident Builder with Peter Wolfcamp Call oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty Newstalgs EDB for more from the Resident Builder with Peter Wolfcamp. Listen live to Newstalks dB on Sunday Mornings from Sex. Follow the podcast on iHeartRadio.