You're listening to The Resident Builder podcast with Peter wolf Camp from News Talks.
Ed by doing up the house, storning the garden.
Ask Pete for ahead the Resident Builder with Peter wolf Camp Call eight hundred eighty eight News Talks edb even when the grass is overgrown in the.
Yard, even when the dog is too old to borrow, and when you're sitting at the table trying not to stop scissor home even when we are benn, even when you're therellone house is a hold, even when those ghost even when you got around from the ones you love your most, you scream it does broken pans being in Fundel.
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And a very very good morning and welcome along to the Resident Builder on Sunday. That's with me, Peter wolf Camp, the Resident Builder. We are talking all things building construction, the rules, the regulations, the products, the selection of various items that all come together to make your house hopefully a home. We can talk about contractors, we can talk about,
like I say, legislation changes, the legislation. There's plenty of that happening at the moment proposed changes, and we can talk about the fact that next weekend is a long weekend, isn't it. It is King's Birthday weekend. So maybe you've got a job that you're thinking, well, I don't really have time to do it in two days, but hey, three days could be the tipping point. Three days could
be the opportunity to crack through a particular project. It'd be really interesting to see what projects you've got hopefully long term forecast and look that great for the end of this week, but there might be some indoor jobs you want to try and achieve over the course of next week. A couple of things on the show today.
Our painting expert Jay Sharples from Razine Color Shops from Razine Paints, will be back with us from seven to twenty five, so we'll be taking text questions there from you to Jay Tricky the better anything to do with painting preparation, paint selection, those sorts of things probably not going to give you a lot of help in terms of choosing the color. That's very much up to you.
But once you've made your color choice, we can certainly help with the technical advice around getting a really good painting job. And to be I think we're starting to get the message that really painting is all about systems now in terms of this product goes with this one to achieve an end result. And I'm thinking about a job that I finally got finished this week, timber post that needed to be replaced. It was a laminated post, it had already been primed. I had to do some shamfering.
I had to make some decorative elements to it. I had to cut the top and the bottom off, et cetera, half house the top and then seal all of that. Then I sanded the original primer back and then I applied a new coat of oil based primer on it to lock it all in place. Then went ahead and put a water borne primer over the top, which is a good adhesion primer to my eventual top coat. So it's all around systems sometimes with painting. So we can
talk about that as well. And then we're into the garden of course with through climb pass from around seven point thirty as well. But if if you've got a building question, let's get into it. Oh eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number to call, and Rod a very good morning.
Yeah, good morning for you. Good morning, my first time calling.
Nice of you to call, nice to hear from you.
Thank you very much. Hey, look, I want to see and help me. I've got one of these prefabricated cabins in our garden and it's rot has set into some of the corners. So it's some of these ones which has got like the corner's over lock and a T shape, so it's it's got like three corners on it. But the rain has got into it and it's got a bit of rot. And I was thinking to basically break out the rot and then fill it with bog. But
what would you recommend? Is there some sort of preservative or something I should put in?
Yeah, there's a couple of things there. So obviously it's it's timber on the exterior. How old's the cabin because realistically it's shouldn't rot that any.
It's only four years old. It's only been in for four years. But yeah, it's I think, well, it's been fully painted and everything in the time it's been in. But I think it's a bit of a floor and the sign perhaps, Yeah, sure, it just gets under those those external external corners. There's no flashings or things on the corners.
So yeah, okay, And how extensive is the rotted part, the part that's gone soft your.
Fist or yeah, yeah, yeah, no, it's it's it's it's smaller than my head. Actually, there's two parts to one is on the back corner. Yes, it had it had it had no down pipe on it, so it's off the ground there and that's right. It out pretty bad. But on the other corners, it's just a little bit in some of the other corners, okay.
I mean sometimes the challenge with fetching out some rot and filling it with a product something you mix up right and mad in there is whether or not there's enough solid material for that to hold on to. Right, So as long as it's well supported and there's a small area of decay, but it's surrounded by an area that you're whatever bonding agent you're going to use or whatever filling agent you're going to use, can actually stick
to something, then that's a good approach to take. Sometimes you might find that exactly what I well, in a sense, what I had there a little while ago. So I was picking out a little bit of rot on a veranda post right by the time I picked it out, my putty knife had gone from one side to the other. I went right through it, and I thought, well, I can cut the post off and put in a piece and make a join that will be strong and all the rest of it, or I'll just pull the whole
post out, which is what I ended up doing. So I pulled the post out, got another one, copied all the detail, put the new one in. So I just wonder whether, if it's like a box corner, for all of the time and effort that you might spend fetching out a little piece of rot and filling it and so on and so forth, could you look at or
maybe get some advice on it. You know, pull the box corner off, buy some new timber, replace that, and chances are the timber that you're going to replace it with will have a higher treatment level than what they might have used, So you might want to use H three point two. But let's say there's just a small area of ro that you want to fix out. You can cut out or just scrape out any loose material. There are some timber preservatives like metal X for example,
that will help prevent further rot to that area. There's also a product that I picked up the other day called basically wood hardener, right, which you just flood the area with this product and you don't let it dry. You keep applying it until it gets like a gloss on it, and then once it's saturated, you let it dry and it literally hardens up all of that slightly soft fibrous material around the edge of the rotten area.
And then my go to in terms of those sorts of repairs is a product called repair Care, which is a two part compound. They both come in a tube, so like a corking tube, you mix them together. If you're doing a lot of it, you can buy a special corking gun that's got two pistons in it so
you can discharge it at the same time. Otherwise, I've kind of just figured out the proportions and extruded them out, mixed this together and it's it's has some adhesive qualities to it, but also once it hardens, you can sand it and paint it. So that's Repair Care and you get that from the Razine shops.
That's fantastic. Yeah, thank you very much.
So there's a little bit.
Of stuff in there, but you know, if you're going to open up that area, do make sure you add a timber preservative, just to stop any rot that might still be there from extending. Okay, all the best, take care. I mean, look, it's not unfair to say you would expect the exterior cladding to last longer than four years, even if it is getting saturated with stormwater coming off
the roof that doesn't have a downpipe. But I mean, I'm still grizzling at the fact that I'm replacing decking boards that are twenty years old because it was LSOP treated timber and it just hasn't lasted. There's a slight irony at the fact that the deck that I built at the back of the house twenty something years ago,
the boards have started to rot. When I step out the front of the house onto the calorie boards that were put down in nineteen oh five, the majority of those, probably ninety percent of those, are actually still in really good condition and untreated. Of course, it is sixteen minutes after six oh eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number to call. You can text through as well
if you've got a comment or a question. That's nine two nine two is ZBZB please text through your painting questions for Jay, our painting expert, and we'll be back to talk to Trevor straight after the break.
Whether you're painting was ceiling, fixing with feds, or wondering how to fix that hole in the wall. Give Peter Wolfgavicle, the resident builder on Youth Dogs two.
This is an interesting text that's just come through and I'll dig into it. But hey, Peter w thank you very much. Is there an available database of renovation projects? Looking to use it to estimate a reno project cost and duration? To the best of my knowledge, there isn't one guy that does provide a truckload of data around construction and so on. He's been interviewed, I think on
this station a couple of times. Mike Blackburn out of christ Church does analysis of particularly building consents and that sort of thing. Whether or not he's got data around that, but check him out online. He's very very active online with a lot of really really good information. So Mike Blackburn out of christ Church might have something, but that's a I'll bear that in mind. I don't know if there is something like that. Trevor, very good morning to you.
Yes, good morning, Peace, from gislon good morning. Thank you for your excellent program. Mate, you're revelating to all other people who haven't got too much knowledge about building.
Mate.
Yeah, my problem is that when we bought our house in September twenty and twelve, we were unaware that the house was fitted out with this quest Ducks poly beautiy in pipe providing water to various parts of the house. Well, since then we've had five failings of the pipe, which is meant you've had to call in a plumber to come and replace the pipe. And talking to the Laiser plumbing boys, they tell me that there's hundreds and thousands of people have been affected by the failure of this pipe.
And you know we're pensioners, part up pensioners having to fork out money each time the pipe fails. It's caused softening up the brawboards around the hot water cylinder where it do birth. And just recently another pipe burst underneath the spare bedroom and we've got writing billboards. And also the last plumber reported black mold and he said that's up. It's pretty toxic and get onto it and get to
get rid of it if you can. But you know, I'm a seventy five year old pension and I'm not calling underneath the house or have that ability as well, you know, and we've had news from a couple in Hawk's Bad that the actual these pipes are in the walls of the house and the total replacement was eighty thousand dollars. Now, when you do a Google search, they reckon between three thousand and seven thousand dollars to work.
In the situation, I think it's worthwhile claiming to our insurance company about this.
Well, that was going to be my next question. Actually,
what's been the response from your insurer? Because typically insurers will pay out on this, but because it is a well and I'm basing this off sort of firsthand experience in the sense that I know someone who has that system inside their house, the first couple of claims were like, oh gosh, I wonder what happened here, and then a growing awareness that it was essentially a systemic failure to use that well known phrase around the Ducks quest or
the quix Ducks system. So the approach from that particular insurer was, you know, will will pay out one more time, but thereafter we're not going to pay out because it's just a maintenance issue. Now you know that you've got something that's not working, We're not going to keep paying you out every time an elbow bursts. The solution for them was to work with their plumber and builder to find a way of re routing or replacing pipework in
the most cost effective way that they could. But the ultimately the only solution is to replace it.
Yeah, well, we've got a five hundred dollars access on our building insurance anyway, so more than five hundred dollars to.
It probably will. But there's a couple of things that might make it a little bit more affordable. So for example, if there's an accessible roof space like trusses that you can get around in. If for example, there's an underfloor crawl space so that you know, plumbers can come along, get access to the underside of the house, get access to the attic, and in some cases, yet where it gets disruptive is, for example, I had my plumber around on Friday to a job and we place to basin tap.
Now I know that the pipes come up from underneath the floor into the wall to a wing back behind the cabinet, and so if there was a fault with that. Essentially, i'd need to take the vanity off the wall, maybe cut through the tiles a bit, take the wing back off, pull the pipe down, slide a new one up, make the crimp onto the wing back. So you know, it's the cutting through plaster board, opening up walls, patching that
that makes it a more expensive project. I don't know that on a relatively straightforward house, I can't see it being a fifty or sixty thousand dollar job. So I guess if you can make a claim to your insurer, be really honest with them, and then take that money and go right, I'm going to use that to part fund the work, and then working with a couple of smart plumbers and chippy's, you might be able to find that you can get the bulk of the work done
for what your insurance pay out. That's probably your best case scenario.
Yeah, well our house is are lockwood, so we don't have any cavity.
Oh okay, all right. That does make it more challenging.
But a good calling space for a midget plumber.
Yeah, young foot, energetic, young plumber. They'll be in there like a raight up a drain pipe.
Yeah, just out of school mate.
No, no, no, you don't want someone who's distracted by scrolling Instagram on their phone. You want someone who's in there and just going for it. But look, I think Trevor, unfortunately the best solution going forward is to do a replacement because in the end, you know, the bit that doesn't break will break later on. That's the really, really frustrating thing about it, right, Good luck with that, mate, all the best and thanks for calling. Oh eight hundred
and eighty ten eighty is the number to call. Twenty six minutes after six Ellison, good morning.
Good morning pig. I've got a nineteen forty nine house and the south side timber is rotting and I'm getting it replaced in the next year twelve months time, when I've got the money. What I'm ringing about is I have to get scaffolding for the people to climb up. Who supplies to safety get? And where do I get that? If buy have to supply it?
Sure? Roughly where are you in the country.
Nine to nine?
Okay?
Oh well, look there'll be lots of scaffolders working out of either Wellington or in the hut. I was in the hut the other day. I'm sure there were scaffolders there. So it depends a little bit on in some ways.
It's actually well, I know, you as the householder might want to provide scaffolding for the contractors, but really the contractors could include the price of the scaffolding in their work right, and so most contractors we might have a couple of mobile towers for example, you know the aluminium towers that knock down. Almost all builders that I know have got their own set of you know, relatively small tower that means you can get up and do maintenance
work to a certain height. Now, if, for example, you need to scaffold an entire elevation because it's weather boards and you want to get from one end to a board, then typically you'll just go out and get pricing from a scaffolder for that work. Prices do vary quite a lot.
One of the things I've noticed recently is over the years, typically if you booked scaffolding, there would be an upfront cost that would be for them to arrive, assemble all of the scaffolding, ticket it and get it ready, and then typically you would have one month's rent included in that right, and thereafter you pay on a weekly basis for the rent. I've noticed that that one month is shortened to one week, so just beware of that too. And it's really important that you say to your contractor
when they're coming to do the work. If I'm going to put the scaffolding up, for example, on the first of May, I want you there on the first of May. I don't want you turning up ten days later, because that's that's going to cost you in the long run. So I think if it's I would talk to your contractor first and go can you provide your own scaffolding, which is not uncommon otherwise it is work done by
qualified people. And they'll come, they'll set it up, they'll make sure that there's safe access onto the platform, so whether that's a ladder or a platform or set of stairs, it doesn't sound like it needs to be that extensive. And then they'll come and take it away at the end as well.
And what about safety gear for them to wear them when they're up.
No, I don't believe that you should be supplying any safety gear to your contractors. That's their responsibility or that's that's the attitude that I would take. And also if they're on the scaffold. They don't need to be harnessed or anything like that if they're on the scaffold.
And the scaffolding guy could tell me on this, Oh absolutely.
But you know, ideally with this sort of thing, you know, chances are when you get your builder or your contractor to do the work, they will already have contacts and relationships with scaffolding contractors. They should be able to help you out.
I just thought i'd give you a corner and good, But somebody was up on a roof somewhere and they fell off and their love stars not too pretty. Now.
No, it's look, I've got one project that I'm supervising at the moment where the guys will need to be on a roof. It's only first floor. And I had the guys from Orange Scaffold and on Friday doing edge protection all the way around, because I want them to be able to work safely, that's the most important thing, but also efficiently and not be thinking about, gosh, what happens if I slip or whatever, especially at this time
of year, so edge protection is really important. But it sounds like most of the work that you need done will be off a scaffold, not necessarily off the roof on good luck Ellison sounds thank you very much for all of very best to you. You take care, take care. Eight hundred eighty ten eighty is that number to call Judy. Good morning to.
You, Oh, good morning, thanks for calling back. I'm going to have my roof sprayed for mold and moss yep. And do you have to have scaffolding around the house for them to do that?
Not necessarily? And again, like as a homeowner, I guess you've got a duty of care to make sure that people are safe. But ultimately the contractors themselves, they should actually be saying to you, this is how we're going to do the job safely. So a lot of contractors who will do like roof spraying and treatment and that sort of thing, they will wear a harness, they'll have an anchor point, they'll have a system, they'll have a methodology for going This is how we secure our ropes.
This is this is the training that we've given to our contractors in order for them to act and be safe on the roof. And because they're moving around a lot, often they will just go ahead and do that with a harness for example, and that's completely up to them. Certainly, whatever anyone does on the roof, they do need to prove that what they're doing is safe right now, whether that's edge protection or a harness, that's up to them to sort out.
Well, it seems they've been in the business for since nineteen fifty nine and they say there's only one year's guarantee.
On the seilant right, So is it a concrete tolerance for me?
They're spraying to get rid of the like it a moss growing all overrom one side of the house. The others are right because one side never gets the sun because there's trees about four meters right, and I'm really below that as well. So you wouldn't need to be paying five hundred dollars every year to get it done.
Again, No, I mean typically it's up to you, of course, but I know that typically if you're going to do that. So it's a concrete tile roof, isn't it. No, it's just just a metal roof, okay. And what are you seeing? Are you seeing like and growing on top of the roof?
Oh?
Yes, okay, yeah, definitely on one side they say that they use a bron mentally ye, that it's.
Okay. So they're going to come along, they're going to treat it. Are they then going to actively remove it? Like is it a two step process or is it a one step process? They apply something and then.
Well, we didn't actually explain it. He just said, you know, they were just going to spray it and that would take a while for you to see it dying.
Sure, that's that's to be expected.
Yeah, and five hundred dollars. That's a reasonable price.
Yes, I think so. Sorry in my notes, it's is that it's five thousand dollars, but it's not as that it's five hundred dollars for them to co and treat the roof.
Yeah, and look like, sorry, I don't have to be there.
They said, no, that's fair enough. Look, I tell you what, And I think this is good advice, hopefully for anyone, you know, working with someone that they're not familiar with. Let's say, is to ask them for a telephone number of someone who has had the work done recently, so it might be someone like yourself that they did a job for three weeks ago, and say, look, could you give me a number of someone that is happy to
talk to me about your work? And then you wring them and you go, Hi, it's you know, duty here, and I've got this company coming to do the work. They did your job a little while ago. Were you happy with it?
Yes, okay, that's fine.
Yeah I would do that. But otherwise, and look, it is actually important to do it because that like and growth will actually start to degrade the coating on the iron roof, on the color steel roof or whatever.
But they have given me explain that, Okay, it's worth doing.
Yeah, oh I know that.
Well, thanks for your leisure.
Nice to talk to you all the best. And I don't I guess as consumers, As customers, we shouldn't be shy about saying, hey, can I talk to someone who you did a job for recently? And you know, if a contract is reluctant to hand out a number or something like that, it might take them a day or so. Maybe they'll ring someone and say, look, do you mind if in this case, Judy gives you a call to
talk about the roof treatment. They might want to give the get their permission first, or they might either way. I think that if you're working with a contractor and they're reluctant to let you talk to someone who they've worked for previously. Then that's probably a little bit of a red flag around how the job's going to go at your place as well. Oh, eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number we need to take a break.
Should we do that? Let's do that, Paul, we'll talk to you straight after the break.
A squeaky door or it's squeakie floor.
Get the right advice from Peter Wolfcap, the resident builder on Newstalk SEB.
I'm just thinking back to last week where I got on my hobby horse and I rode it into the sunset about that article about that was on the front page of the Herald around council telling villa owner that they needed to remove double glazing because it didn't comply with heritage standards and that's a breach of resource consent ETCA, except or they needed to get a retrospective resource consent for the work that they'd done. Now, frankly, it was misleading.
We've been through that in the sense that council don't have an issue with double glazing. They have an issue with unsympathetic aluminium joinery being installed into heritage into a heritage building. Right, So the issue is not the double glazing, very clear about that. It's not the double glaze. It is absolutely about the way in which they went about installing the double glazing and the frames that they went into anyway, and then I was thinking, shivers, I've done this.
So I did a renovation a couple of years ago, and we've put it together and put a feature up on YouTube. So if you want to see what working on double hung sash windows looks like in terms of upgrading the glazing, repairing them, making sure they function again for another hundred years, check out if you just go to YouTube and go resident builder and then host project, which is Huis, and search for one that says Heritage meets hard Work, roof challenges and window upgrades. There's a
whole series of little videos about the renovation. There's all sorts of videos there about installation and compliance and that sort of thing. So there's a whole library that we're putting together for you on YouTube. So search for resident builder, find that there and then have a look through the video. The one that's got me working on some double hung sash windows is called Heritage meets hard Work, and it's all the things that you need to do to get
your heritage house up to stand it. So hopefully there's a little bit of insight into the fact that you can actually quite successfully repair and maintain and keep your classic timber joinery, as well as upg grading the the glazing as well. Right he six forty one here at Newstalk, said be paul A very good morning.
Oh, good morning, Peter. We'd redecorate in the house and I bought an oak bed and inside as a temporary table. It's been a bit weathered and I had a jar of picks a peanut but steed and grain mix. It tipped over and all oil went on the wood. It made an awesome stain. It's been there for a while. Also, years ago they started making plastic posts at Rammed and better than they must have had little steel tips on
the end of them and are strong. And the thing I just wondering, when are they going to make plastic girders, even if they had a rod in the middle of them or something like that.
I know, the plastic posts that you're talking about. If it's the same thing, that's future post, which is a really good end use for lots of types of soft plastics can be recycled and made into those. I don't believe they've got any sort of qualification, let's say, or they don't comply in terms of the building code for subfloor piles. But where they are fantastic, and i've seen them down at field days for example, is you know
strain a posts than that. I think their intention was that it would be a really good substitute for timber posts in farming and agriculture. So certainly in terms of farming, certainly in terms of on venue and that sort of thing, it's great. And I've noticed that they've started to do some retaining timbers as well, so heavier ones that you could use for raised gardens and so on. So look, it's a good option. Hello, I don't know that they've tested them for the load bearing. That's in terms of
getting them compliant with the building code. I think there's enough uses for them outside of that that will stick to what we know and trust in terms of building. But I mean, look, they're phenomenally strong. I've seen them, and I've seen some of the stress testing on it. They are phenomenal. But you know, it's just not there in the building code at the moment. But really interesting issue to raise. Actually, field days is craky. When's that?
I think?
I'm down there on the thirteenth of June. Starts on the twelfth. I'm going to shoot down for the day. Heaps to see lots of people to talk to. I've only been going for the last couple of years, but I really really enjoy it when i'm down there. Had a fantastic day on Friday too, wandering through the Stark factory looking at how you PVC windows are made. It was really fantay. I'll tell you a bit more about later on. Oh eight hundred eighteen eighty is the number
to call. Hey, Harry, good morning to you. Good morning, Harry.
How are you.
I'm very well, thanks, sir Bitter.
I've got a Brivy central heating system in my house. It is a twenty kilover high efficiency MULTIPLEX series. Yeah, built in two thousand and six, nineteen years ago, and every two years they have to service the thing. Yes, So when they did it this time, the man said that now you have to replace the Fenness, right, that is what's available. So I said, you know that's only nineteen years old. Oh, they said, we have to replace
it and to make the meta worse. He said that where you got the ceiling entry point, we can't do it from there. You have to hear to have a new entry point made near the where the fairness is. Right, So does the fairness only last nineteen years?
From my own experience, I'm not particularly familiar with them. I think that you know, for something that I guess when it's on, like over winter, gets a lot of use, then yes, I can imagine that maybe it has reached
the end of its serviceable life. The challenge, too, is that it might be serviceable if you could get parts, but not all manufacturers provide parts beyond a certain time, which you know is an issue, right, And I think there is talk about some government legislation that will mean that if you're going to bring a product into the country, you're going to have to provide service for it's It shouldn't be acceptable. This is just a general thing, not
necessarily related to what you're talking about. But you know, the frustration is, Let's say you buy a toaster, for example, and after two years the spring goes in it, and you ring the importer and you say, can I have a new spring? And they go no, we don't sell parts for that, and so the whole thing's rubbish and
you've been it after a short period of time. Whether or not that applies to something that's twenty years old, The only thing I could suggest, Harry, is that I'm sure there are more than one provider of servicing for these units, right, And I would go to another supplier or another service provider and say could you please come and assess it, and they might say to you, actually, you know, we've got some parts for that, and we'll
keep it going for the next five years. So I think my advice would be try and find another contractor who could come and have a look at it. You may well find that you get a slightly different response from them, but otherwise, yes, these things do wear out. Ventilation systems, heating systems have an end of life. Be nice more than twenty years. But it may well be that twenty years is reasonable. But get two people to
give you advice on that would be my advice. Oh, eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call. Thanks for you call Harry. We'll talk to Grant after the break.
Helping you get those DIY projects done right. The resident builder with Peter WOLFCAF call Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty Youth Talk ZB.
Must be my tune. OH eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call. Remember we've got Jay from Razine, our painting expert, available to take your text questions at around seven twenty five this morning. So any specific painting questions might be about paint as in the actual paint, the right type of paint to use in the right situation, application, preparation, those sorts of things. So fleck through those texts to
nine to nine two. Jay from Razine will be with us at seven twenty five and a very good warning to you, Grant. How are you doing?
Yeah?
Good, thanks Peter. I've got a one challenge. I've just built two brand new townhouses Dupilus Monoclis plaster down the bottom. The top floor is new or aluminium platting, and the
platting is a gray for ice are quite dark. When you're outside the townhouses, you hear a constant cracking, which I guess is expansion contraction in the sunlight or not even sunlight, just in the in the day and inside it sounds like you've got fire where it's going off outside in terms of the noise, and when I talk to my architect who's they specify the product and try to chase up with the manufacturer, there's no engagement on this.
And is it a implementation challenge I've got or is this a consequence of the product that's been specified.
All metal expands and contracts, right, whether it's aluminum or zincaloom or whatever, And so certainly I've heard it where roofs will expand and contract and as they do, so
you you'll hear a noise. I've had it on metal cladding as a not aluminium, but metal cladding on the exterior of a building, and I think from my experience pretty much all of the cladding manufacturers who do various types of this type of cladding will say you can expect that there will be expansion and contraction and sometimes that generates a noise. So it's not uncommon. And I guess if it's a darker color and it's facing north and it's a particularly long hot summer, then I think
you'll you'll that will be more noticeable. There's also ways of ensuring that you like. For example, it's really important with the installation of some of these systems, and each system is different, right, so I can only make broad comments, but I know for some systems they work on the basis that the actual cladding, the bit that you see is while it's fixed, it's not fastened, so there is
room for to move. Other systems where they're they're direct fixed in you'll have tension and compression because they're fixed at either end, and you'll have some movement in between there, and that can generate some noise. These So it was specified by the architect you've had it installed. Was it installed by the contractor provided by the supplier of the product or was it a separate contractor who did it.
A separate contractor did it licensed building practitioner?
Okay? Do you know whether they did it in accordance with the specifications from the product supplier.
The contract required them to do so, and they receive the specifications from the architect.
But did they do it?
I don't know.
Okay, that's that's going to be your first thing to look at, right. So, and this is again this is a general comments. As contractors, we might get specifications for all sorts of products and and like you know, doing your earfix model as a kid, you don't always read
the instructions to be blunt. So I would go back in the first instance to the person that installed it and say, did you install it exactly as per the instructions and as per the specifications, And then if they're saying that it is, then maybe you have someone come and independently check that in fact they have done the installation correctly, because again, and I'm not suggesting it's the case in your specific instance, but I do know of
situations where a contractor has not followed the instructions, has installed the product, has installed it on the wrong type of bat and use the wrong type of fixing those sorts of things, and it's been effectively non compliant as a result. So a little bit of detective work, I'm afraid on your part and check that first, maybe get someone else who's experience with the system to come out and have a look and determine whether there's any initial faults.
And then, as per the article that was in the paper yesterday, I think the comment from the supplier there was, you know, we we do know that it does expand and contract and that causes noise. Most of that noise is within a certain tolerance level. Right, So if you feel it's outside of that tolerance level, then you'd go back to the installer and to the manufacturer and go, hey, let's come out, let's do some testing and see what is causing the issues. Okay, yeah, good approach, Thank you,
good luck, all right, all the best. But first stoppers is to go back and talk to the guy that installed it and go how'd you do it? And did you do it correctly?
Great?
All right, all the best, Thanks a lot, take care. And I say this because you know, increasingly, lots of systems that we use in construction are you know, they've been specifically designed to perform in a particular way when
you build it as per the specification. So you know, if the boffins that have developed cladding system or a bracing system or whatever type of system that we might have in terms of house building, there'll be you know, specific fastness, specific types of brackets, specific distances, all of
these things. All of these tolerances are developed during the product development and then that's included in the specifications and the installation guides, and the expectation is that then when it gets to site, that it's done as per the specifications and to be fair. It's not uncommon to find that products have been installed not as per the specification, and it's no surprises then that we might have issues with it. Right, We'll continue talking all things building and
construction after the news at seven o'clock. If you'd like to join us pon us now, oh eight hundred and eighty ten eighty, feel free to send your texts to nine two niney two and remember Jay our painting expert. At around seven twenty five.
I want to be nowhere, but here with it now, Liby one in this speech.
Measure twice God was but maybe called Pete first, Peter Wolfkev the resident builder news talks.
That'd be your news talks. That'd be welcome back to the show. It is almost seven minutes after seven. Remember around seven twenty five this morning, Jay our painting expert from Razine will be joining us. So if you've got any specific painting questions, feel free to text those through. Thank you too to a number of people that text
through with actually really simple and useful solutions. For one of our earlier callers, that was Trevor, he was talking about the fact that they've actually it turns out they're in a Lockwood Home, so you know circa sometime late nineteen seventies early or eighties roughly, and it has a plumbing as in a piping system called Duck's Quest. It's well known for failures, and I think it's not un to say that almost everyone who has had it installed or it was in their house as part of the
new build or innovation, has had problems with it. So a couple of people have suggested, well, here's a good one. Lockwood's packed the wall out fifty mili overlay with matching timberge and then just move the bath. Done it a couple of times. It's easy enough. I thought that was very good. Someone asking did the previous owner know about that? Well, I think he's owned the house for a number of
years twenty twelve. I mean, look, any liability would be long past, and I think too the disclosure duty to disclose was probably quite different in twenty twelve than it might be today in terms of real estate. Thanks for the advice Rey the Ducks or Quest Ducks pipe failure. Our plumber said that if we ever wanted to sell our house, we'd have to inform the buyer that the house still has some of that ducks in it. Yeah,
I tend to agree. It'll be that sort of thing that if the real estate agent sits down with you when they do their sale and purchase agreement or when they you've got a contract with them, they will say to you, is there anything about the house that you need to disclose? And if you are aware and you choose not to disclose it, then you could be held liable for that. I understand later on. So yeah, if you know it's a problem, then you have to disclose
the fact that it's it is a problem. Or if it was a problem and you've fixed it, then that's great. Oh eight hundred eighty eighty is that number to call? Don A very good morning to you.
Yes, good morning to you, Peter. I was on your show a couple of weeks ago talking about our central districts.
And online and it looked like a fantastic event.
Yes it did. We got eight hundred people through the door wow to the event, and we've got a huge crowd watching the main event, which is the wood turning competition, and we had eighteen wood turning took part and there were three heats and the person that person that won in the final turn the bowl out in three and a half minutes.
Three minutes thirty seconds for a bowl that had impressive that.
It was impressive, and that included you have to take them the inside of the bottle and then you go turn it over into the upside and so forth. So we'll be syvesa. But yeah, no, it was a really good event. And we're going to run the game next year on the seventeenth and May, which will be twelve months. And yeah, it was really very popular and it's surprising how many people came in and wanted to have a look at it.
You know.
It was really the sweet thing. Really. I think that brought the people in.
Yeah, and yeah, because actually I was going to ask in terms of like okay, so you know I could bash something out super fast, right, but it'll be rubbish. There is there a bit of a it's got to be at least half way reasonable in terms of quality.
Oh yes, in judgment and it you know, right, you turn the body out and it's so much for becoming off fairs, but of course it's a there's the shape of the ball comes into consideration by the judge and also the consistency through the thickness and all that. They get points off for all of that, so it's got to be a reasonable sort of ball that comes off of it.
Yeah.
Yeah, And they're all using the same size stock, aren't they.
Yes, Yeah, yes, yes, they went through with it. I think it was seventy five millimeters what by one hundred and fifty millimeters and it was and all the blinks were the same. It was mecro carp Yeah.
Nice, nice, look. I think it's a fabulous event. And I think too, you kind of get a sense that lots of people are looking to return to I guess traditional crafts like wood turning. Of wood turning has been around for hundreds of years in various forms. And also
the sheer pleasure of making something. You know that in a world where more and more people make things for you and things are not made to last and all the rest of it, it's it's that that kind of inherent pleasure in making, you know, whether it's doing your own baking or whether it's pottery, or whether it's wood turning or whether it's weaving and that sort of thing. There's there is, I think just a general sense that people want to uncover those skills again. And yeah, keep them alive.
I guess, and some of the balls were given out to the brilliant.
I've written the date down so if the lines I mean, it's the sort of thing I would love to get to. I'm not making any promises, but I put the date in the calendar already.
All right then, thank you very much, stay.
In touch, Thank you all the best. What Don was talking about was a competition in the Wairapa, so in Palmerston, I think is where it was. No might not have been parmised over the weekend wood Turners Guild or festival.
And the competition was to turn out a bowl. They all had exactly the same size piece of macrocarpa and it was a speed test and we know that you know, crafting things is not about speed, but it's a fantastic thing to watch as as very accomplished and experienced wood turners all have a go at trying to produce a bowl in a limited amount of time three minutes thirty seconds is phenomenal. So that would have been great to watch.
And eight hundred people through the door. That's tremendous community engagement, So congratulations to you guys. It is thirteen minutes after seven. If you've got a building question. Oh, eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call. A couple of painting questions coming through, which is really really good as well, Thank you very much for those. A couple of questions
about cladding roof treatments. This is an interesting one, hey, In reply to the woman who has some concerns about the roof treatments, this is someone who operates a business. I operate my business in South Waikato. I do all of it with an ecosoftwash and the buildings are performing well, the roof and the hard With the roof and hard surface treatments, I offer a guarantee that it will clear the growth, and I photograph all the work so comparison
can be made at any time. If there are areas where it's deemed not to be working, I return it no additional charge. Photographic history and years of reputation does provide peace of mind. Good on you, Chris. That sounds really thorough and really professional. So that's Chris from X Factor in Tokoro, South Waikato. So X factor so ex mold roof treatments. Good on you, and it is really important.
And I was reading a condition report for a building the other day, and the building surveyor who was commissioned to do the report pointed out the fact that there was the beginning of some like that was growing on the roof and the recommendations removed that before it impacts on the coating and potentially shortens the life span of the roof. So if it is on your roof, you should get it treated and obviously get it treated by someone who knows what they're doing. Oh eight hundred eighty
ten eighty is the number to call. We'll take your calls right now. We've got a spare line right now. It is coming up fifteen minutes after seven.
Doing other house extorting the guard and asked Fete for a hand as a resident builder with Peter Wolfcap Call oh eight eighty ten eighty newstalgs EDB.
Your news talks dB A couple of minutes away from our painting expert J from Razine and some really good curly questions coming in on the text machine, so feel free to send through another question for J. We'll try and get through most of those in a moment. Some great questions to via the text that I'll come to, particularly around insurances or warranties for buildings. So we'll have a look at that in a minute. But first up Bernie, good morning, Yeah.
Good morning, pick. Just having a query on I just had a kitchen greenow done and basically I had the equal put HBO and all the kitchen stuff in and the sparking that did the young Fellows been back through times to deal with the issues with it just not fitting in probably or had me fitting in properly, and I'm just wanting to know where do I stand in this issue. I'm going to go back to this spark
you tomorrow. You know, one of the people that are based on whoever was put on to me, they have a lot to see what I can do with it, you know, because it's not not very satisfactory. It's just he's where he's tolled the holes in his head and put the brackets on the back of the wall, you know that, and it just looked ugly. It wasn't even you know, for the money I've paid paid the spark
you to do the job. I don't think you should be paid because it's just a shocking workmanship on behalf of the worker.
I think in the first instance, if he's an employee of a firm, right, I would get in touch with
the boss and get the boss out immediately. And then if you feel that you're still getting the run around, basically I'd be inclined maybe to get a registered electrical inspector to come out and determine have a look at the work, because electricians are interesting for a number of different reasons, but as a trade they self certify, right, So if you're building a house or doing a renovation, no one other than the electrician and an electrical inspector
will determine whether or not the work is compliant, right, Yes, So it's a little bit different too. Let's say builders, for example, and even plumbers where typically will do the work and then a building inspector or a plumbing inspector will determine and whether or not the work is up to standard and sure pass right. So, in that sense, there is more responsibility on electricians to do work according
to their regulations correctly all of the time. So if for example, the young fellow who's been on site hasn't done a great job, talk to the boss. If the boss is unresponsive, I would go to an electrical inspector and then they have their own disciplinary process after that.
Yeah, okay, yeah, because I did. The boss had come out and have look at yourself, get it right for your Friday. And then he did come out and wasn't really happy to do the job, you know, like refix it all up and where he put the screw holes and they went even even nothing like that, and they went the proper screws that they were with the kiss ringing over that, and so I unscrewed it like Friday night and just said, oh, I'm not putting it up.
Whether I took photos and I asked him to left a note from him to take photos off the start job and that, and he wasn't happy to do even that, and yeah, he reckons you seek the photos for me? Who he hasn't done that at all, And I think he has one to show his boss.
And also I think it's I think it's time to get the boss out.
Yeah, yeah, I think I need to go get him back out again, absolutely and do it because it's just a lot of money if paid out for it. It's my wave, a home at the stage.
And you want it to be right.
Yeah, I need to get it right. Yeah, definitely, right.
Get the boss out in the first instance, and then electrical inspector after that, and then there is actually a disciplinary board that they have as I understand it as well. So good luck with that, Bernie and Mike.
Get oh how are you this morning?
Very well? How can I help?
Yeah? Look, I've got a property account for about thirty years. Thinking about two thousand and eighteen, I think it was we we did some innovations in the building of a bit of a shorty job yep, and we never got to build a building code tients. And when I say shotty jobs's things like some of the fleshings don't go past the windows and that's them. There's a deck that's it comes off. That's the second story which is not low enough.
And a quick question, the work that was done in twenty eighteen, was it done with a building consent? So a building consent was issued for the work and then the work was done, Yes, it was, yes, okay, And the building consent didn't get signed off the building.
The building consent inspections some of them got signed off, but the coding compliance we just knew got it was to bands like with the builder.
Yeah, I know, it's me so we're looking looking to.
Sell the place, and the building inspector's been out and he's gone around and given a solista some of the things that he's seen a.
Building inspectors in the council Building inspector.
Yes, yes, yes, and so we can get those fixed. But I'm still unsure as to you know, when I go back and sell down all these senisters. Someone said to me, well, you know you might have to. Actually they might still not pass it because the whole house wouldn't be compliant now because it's top so long go, the insulation wouldn't very right. And do I have to bring it all up to speed or is it just what the building the council buildings peck yourselves and what I have to do.
Just do what the building inspector asked you to do. So if you've gone effectively you've asked for a final inspection again, they've come out, they've given you a list of things to do. Do exactly what's on the list. Try and get the same building inspector back. They will tick that off and then you can make an application for a CCC. Now that process is always the homeowner's responsibility,
and twenty eighteen not actually that long ago. They will want things like producer statements, record of works from your builder. They'll want certain warranty documents and so on. Get it done because I guess, and this is me speaking professionally as well, I will do pre purchase inspections from time to time. My attitude years ago was, if you've had a building like yours, you could make a determination and go look on the balance of probabilities. You could sort
it out later on if you bought it right. My advice these days is to say to someone who's looking at a building, So if I was acting for someone who might be interested in your house, I would say to them, make sure that you might get the CCC for it. Don't take on that responsibility later on because it can be difficult. So I think it any money that you spend getting your house up and getting a CCC for it is money well spent.
It would be my advice, right, And is there other people that can, like, can I go and get someone else that comes and speaks it and gives me a producer savment or something that sees that you know that it's wanted, which means.
Yeah, I mean the best people to engage for that, but there are fees involved. Obviously would be a building survey as a registered building surveyor, because they're obviously familiar with the code and the code requirements and they will also, like I'm contracting a building surveyor at the moment to prepare a report that I can give to counsel to prove to counsel that the cladding is going to be durable and complies with the durability requirements of the code. Right,
so it performs. Okay, now that's something that I'm familiar with, but I don't have the level of qualification in order to do that, and so I've contracted on behalf of my client to get a registered building surveyor to undertake that. So you may find that you end up getting a registered building survey. So it's either just go to ends ibs dot org so use it or building survey dot org dot enz scroll through and you'll find people in your area and then then go from there.
Okay, all right, okay, but.
You know it's it's a lot of work, but I assure you if you get it done, it's it's so much in your interest to get it done. Okay, all right, all the very best to you. Take care. Oh yeah, there's a bit of work involved in that, right to you. Let's talk painting, and I'm going to start off by going, Jay, how are you mate?
Just listening to the last couple of questions, it sounds like it's a curly morning, and to.
Be fair, it's it's only going to get curlier. I'll tell you what actually, just can we get a comment from you. The other day, I've been doing some work and I had some decking timber that turned up unprimed, right, So that was it's simple. It's it's h three point two timber. It's it's all dressed and ready to go, so obviously it needs a primer. So I used an oil based primer. Then, as for your advice, I've I've applied another coat of quick dry over the top of that.
Then once it went down and I'd done all the priming, I've I've put my lumbersider over the top. So, but then the other day I bought a post that was pre primed, and a lot of timber that supplied for exterior cladding comes pre primed. I took the approach that that's kind of just a factory coat, and so once i'd finished working on the post, I gave it a light sand and take much to sand some of that
primer off, and then re primed it with oil base. Again, is that generally what you would advise for pre primed boards.
Ok.
A lot of the pre prime timber is just like a transportation primer to the timber and transit. It's not a primer designed be kind of painted over. So you need to give it a sand re prime with an oil based primer, and then you get to go. There is some primer out there. There's true Prime from Razine and some of the other manufacturers do primers as well
on certain weather boards and timbers. Yes, that will be there'll be stickers on the back of the boards around preparation and what you need to do, and some of those primers you can paint over. Yes, but the vast majority of pre prime timber you need to sand and reprime.
Okay, that's good advice. And I know, like I've worked with timber clouting systems where they are prime undercodd and have a first code on them, so you know that's slightly different, but they will tell you that. So I think the safe assumption is if it's just got a primer on it, a factory primer on it. You should send it and reprime that.
I mean, like you said, you gave it a sand and it was just turning to dust essentially. So yeah, if you want to get through that and actually get a decent primer on there, the primers like the whole anchor right coat for the whole system. So that's the one coat that needs to be done really really well.
Okay, Oh and look, it didn't take in this instance, didn't take a lot of time, and you know, I feel a lot more confident about it going forward. So that's awesome.
Right.
Let's rip into some texts of Vitex sticks that has been Vitex that's been oiled twice. The last time was ten years ago. Now more than well weared, weathered, no surprise there can I clean and put a water based stain on it? So what are the issues there? If it's been oiled ten years ago?
What can I do?
Really depends depends on what oil was used. If it's a mineral oil, like you've got a couple out there, wood X Dryden CD fifty, you need to stick with those right on the timber. If it's an oil like our razine solvent blen Woodsman. Then yes, you could clean it and go over with the water Born Woodsman or the solvent board Woodsman again. So to clean it it would be scrub it with rasine, timber and backwash.
Yep.
And then if you're not sure, ten years a long time of finding out what was on there. Pretty slim, So I'd say try one of our water Born Woodsman test spots in if you can, in an inconspicuous area, yes, and then just give it a couple of days see if it penetrates and dries, and if it does, you should be okay to restain over over that old oil. If it doesn't, then it stays on the surface and it's still tacky. Yes, then unfortunately you're going to have to stick with like a mineral oil.
On that, i'ld say, right, So it's about compatibility between the different paint systems, right, Oh, painting question. I've got a soft ball sized hole in a hatch board wall in my garage. Once repaired with a small piece of GiB and plaster, I'd don't want to repaint the wall. Any tips for paintings leans in good fuck the size hole sounds awfully similar to a first size hole.
Or ahead or a football really, so master painters and they're fat sheets. You say, anything bigger than a postage stamp, you're not really going to be able to touch up that area, right, So when you start getting bigger than that and lochine paint, you're you're going to struggle without doing corner to corner on the wall. Yeah, and our advices really always go corner to corner to try and blend it all in.
I mean, it's the sort of thing you might get away with a touch up of a job that's recently being done, you know, like if you've got the same same.
Role of application, then you might. But like I said, master painters say anything she wise greater than a flat or matt finish, you're going to struggle when it's bigger than a postage stamp.
So yeah, paint and it might show up corner to corner absolutely. Yeah, we're painters not magicians. Yeah, that's it right. Getting some window frames done dark blue? What is the process to ensure that the paint lasts so dark blue window frames? And actually tell us what the light reflectance value is, so every.
Color has got the value of the amount of light it reflects, and obviously the darker the color, it's going to absorb more light and more heat, and then that heat transfers obviously into the substrate the paints on. With timber windows, obviously the darker you go, the more heat it's going to absorb, and then the more movement you're likely to get in the timber yep. So ideally going lighter would be better.
Yes, Obviously, if you're going to go dark.
We'd always recommend using the cool colored version of the color so that that helps reflect more of the heat out from entering the substrate. That makes sense.
Yeah, In terms of the numbers, because some like with the boards for example, they'll the manufacturer will say, if you paint a color that has a number above thirty five I think is typically where it cuts off, then it's forty five.
Okay, it's around forty forty five. As usually the.
Cutoff white as sort of one and black is one hundred.
Is that how it works?
It is near enough for blacks about four percent or something. In white's probably ninety five or something either way around.
Okay, So higher the number, the lighter the color, and so going below forty five is not advisable.
Yeah, yeah, okay, are you under check head?
Yeah, I've never convinced that I've got it.
It's more heat, it reflects less light. So the darker is going to absorb more and the light is going to reflect more.
Okay, So in this situation, they're wedded to the dark color. They love it. What's the best thing to do?
So, I mean it depends. So say it's timber weather, timber window. It's in pretty good condition at the moment. I'm presuming it's painted already, so it's kind of sand.
What's on there?
To de gloss?
What's on there?
Spot prime? Many bear areas would resime quick dry or Rasine wood primal, then the full coat of the Razine quick dry, and then i'd say used to lust the quill in that in the color they've chosen. But if it's forty or more like reflectance value, which kind of a darkish blue, will be used to call color version.
Yess okay, brilliant stand the light. We're going to take short break. We'll be back with Jay from Razine after the break.
Whether you're painting the ceiling, fixing the fence, or wondering how to fix that hole in the wall, give feeder, wolf gabber, call on.
The resident builder on news dogs.
B Jay Sharples from Razine is with us this morning taking your painting questions. Oh, here's a goodie painting a thirty one year old cedar house which has only been stained once when it was first built in nineteen ninety four. What is the preparation required before painting? How many coats of paint and a suitable paint for a cedar house that is north facing and exposed built on a hill?
Anything again? Like the kind of vile earlier? Like if it's been oiled.
Initially thirty one years with no log, go.
Back to stain. Our recommendations for stain is staining every sort of two to three summers. Yep, So it's thirty one years for nothing. There's no protection on the cedar. What state is that cladenine to even look at?
It's not going to be pretty.
No, So system is razine, timber and deck quarters to give it a good clean. I'd imagine a moss and mold treatment as well. You're looking at a full coat of razine wood primer and then two coats of lumbersider.
But I've seen old seedar houses that haven't had any sort of love for a number of years, where the ceedar gets very profiled and you get those peaks and troughs and what you can get when you paint it, which isn't visible really when you stain it is a lot of shadowing from those peaks and troughs on profile timber. So then if you get painters in paint it, the homeowner thinks the painters haven't put enough paint on because
the house looks really patchy. But a lot of the time it's just those pigs and troughs in the in the profile of the timber.
Yeah.
So yeah, I mean that that's the system is give it a good clean down and then in wood primer and two coats of lumbersider. Or you're looking at restaining it and then restaining it every few years, yeah, or looking at recladding.
Yeah.
Yeah.
Look, ultimately you're right, it may well need it. So you know, I suppose what it is is have realistic expectations. So if it's thoroughly cleaned, the right paint system, it will help protect it for some time. Like the house will love it, but don't expect to get a quality finish. Like you might have got off new cedar boards or new weather boards.
Yeah.
Yeah, absolutely. Last one is someone who's noticed mold ink like stains on the ceiling they painted with kitchen and bathroom paint. Wipe the ceiling, but it seems to be under the paint. Did they paint over the mold in the first place?
Potentially, yes, I suppose if it's if it's bleeding through them paint, then yeah. We always recommend using rasime, moss and mold killer because it's it kills the spores of the mold, and if you just wipe it, it looks like you've removed it with just just wipe it with right or anything else, it looks like you've removed the mold, but the spores are still there. Yep, So you really
need to use the bleach. In our opinion, a bleach based cleanhad like razine, moss and molecular to kill those spores so that when you do paint it they're not still there and bleeding through the coating.
Yep.
Now it's then you've noticed it. You can it might take multiple sort of treatments, but you can just keep cleaning it with the moss and molecular and hopefully it should get through and sort of help solve the issue.
Yeah awesome, Okay, well right, do it right and do it once and do it right?
Is the key is?
Yeah? Isn't that the mental Absolutely? Hey j thank you very much for all your advice this morning. Much appreciated. Have a great day, take care all the best, I think, And actually the Razine people are at the Home and Garden Show which is on at Eden Park today, so last day to day. It's been on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and again today. So the Home and Garden Show. They've got sort of an experienced area for the kids, which is great fun. Some of the experts are presenting today.
I happen to be in the expert line up today as well. So if you're at the Home and Garden Show today around twelve o'clock, make your way to the little sort of auditorium area. They've got a presentation area there, not far from the entrance way, and do a little presentation on sort of my take on changes to building because there's so much change, what's changing? What's it about? It's a fast and furious thirty minute presentation from twelve
o'clock today at the Home and Garden Show. Thereafter I will cruise down to the food court because man, there's some good food on offer at the Home and Garden Show today. Great exhibitors too, and actually had a really cool conversation with Flexi Abode.
I'll check that.
Yeah, Flexi Homes who do sort of modular construction, so off site construction assembly on site, interestingly enough, using jaframe as their preferred framing timber that they use for it, which is really really cool, and then using Stark Joinery in most of their projects as well, which is the high performance uPVC joinery that they incorporate in order to get really high performing homes. Actually, I had a just
quickly for the breaky Friday. I spent the morning going through the factory actually at Stark Joinery, so they make the uPVC joinery. The whole process from the essentially the stock the blanks coming out into a highly automated system that cuts everything, drills all the holes, goes through reinforcement, goes into the assembly of the actual frames themselves, which is done with heat, so their heat welded in the corners and then automatically cleaned up, and then the assembly
of the hardware and the process out the door. So fascinating insight into some of the technology and clever thinking that goes into these high performance uPVC windows. So that was great. Actually really enjoyed my time out there at Stark. It is quarter to eight already. Remember through climb past will be along straight after at eight thirty. This morning. Will take your calls right through till eight thirty in terms of building, construction, legislation, rules and regulations, all things
building and construction. But if you'd liked and if you'd like to give us a call, you can text. You can phone now on eight hundred and eighty ten eighty. You can also text nine to nine two and we will talk all things building in construction.
Squeaky door or squeaky floor?
Get the right advice from Peter Wolfgaf, the resident builder on news Talk seb and A very good morning, John.
How are you doing, Pete?
Very well?
I got really excited when I heard that text question, yes, and then I was bitterly disappointed about the razine guy's answer to it. Right, remember describing to you how I did my place.
You sended it right back, and you ground it and you polished it and you honed it and you looked at it with a microscope and you applied fifty six coats of paint and it looks magnificent.
Well, I don't think that description would help the personist exactly how to do it? Do me to describe it?
I remember what you talking about, and look at it if in your instance, and I really admire the application, right, So the dedication to it, I guess it's the sort of thing that you know, You and I as homeowners tend to pour our heart and soul into these processes and we can achieve great results. But from a commercial point of view, can you pay someone to put as much time and effort in Well, yes you can, but
it tends to be a bit cost prohibitive. But look, I hear what you're saying, John, And for listeners who don't recall the conversation, you know, John put a lot of time and effort into standing, prepping and restoring the timber joinery, and I'm sure it looks absolutely magnificent. So it can be done, but it comes down to perhaps the amount of time, and typically the amount of time
ends up being the amount of money. John really lovely to talk to you, and it was actually John that I sat with for a little while at the Home and Garden John Wellington a week while ago and it was a great conversation, so really appreciate it. It is ten minutes away from eight today. We're looking into tryboard as a lining option. So it comes in two point four or three point six meter sheets. It's ten mil. It's got two MDF outer layers in a strand board
inner layer, light durable, can handle the NOOX. It's pretty tough, so it's perfect for renovations and for new builds. Joining us this morning is Brendan Maroney from Store in z Now. You specialize in kitchens, cabins and custom builds based up in Northland. You've been using it for a couple of years. How did you get interested in tryboard.
I started using trybards just after the COVID lockdowns. And the reason I started using it is because Plywoods became quite inconsistent, just availability and also the varying price and the quality as well. The quality really planted a little bit, I think, just due to availability.
Sure, so in terms of the installation process, this is your life over conventional timber framing, speed, complexity. Walk us through it.
So yeah, it's pretty it's pretty simple. We just we do our framing and insulation and cabling, and then the triboarders glued to our timber framing, and then pins and then also screwed, just just to compress the glue and give it a good fixing. It's not used as a bracing element, but it definitely does add a bracing element to the structure.
In terms of selection of links, what do you typically use?
I use both the two point four and the three point six one. I find the two point four mainly for the wall linings, and then also if I build a higher units, I can cut down the three point six yep. But then the three point six is ideal for going across the ceiling long ways. Just less less boards, less work.
Yeah, so you're using it a nicer finish walls and ceilings.
Yeah, that's correct.
In terms of of coating it, what what would your top tips for coating it be.
I don't really have many top tips for courting as to come in and do it. As far as the courting goes, it's it's a lot nicer than than a plywood finish. It's there's no inconsistencies or not so it definitely comes up really nice once it's finished, and we put a little chamfur on the giint yes, and line them up with the ceiling, and yeah, it looks stunny.
And because with the NDF skin on it, it does give you a really really smooth finish, doesn't it It does?
Yeah, it's it's when you look side by side with NDF and fire, would you get a really nice finish.
Nice.
In terms of some projects coming up, where do you think you'll be using Tribwald next.
I use triboard on I'd say ninety five percent of my cabins, so I'll be using it this week. I buy it quite quite regularly, probably buy a pack of fifty every two weeks. Yes, yeah, so that's I was in stock in my in my workshop.
That's brilliant. It's become sort of an integral part of the buildings that you do.
Yeah, definitely. It's just that consistency and consistency and product price and availability and.
A finish that you're really happy with.
Yeah, and also the customers love that they come and they're always impressed with the finish. So that's I I was a bonus good to hear.
If you want to look at some of Brendan's projects. Have a look at store dot co dot nz. That's s t o R dot co dot nz. To find out more about tryboard, go to j now dot co dot nz.
Z B.
Just finishing a snack right, Oh, it is six minutes away. Terribly unprofessional of me. Six minutes away from eight o'clock. If you've got a question, Oh, eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is that number to call. We'll take your calls right through till eight thirty this morning, when we'll jump into the garden with Rud. A couple of texts that have come through as well. Pete, can I paint
a nineteen seventies brick house? Yes, you can, Bob rob So it's all about the primer, and interestingly enough, typically it's a pigmented Seala as the recommended primer onto brick so clean it thoroughly pigmented seila top coats over the top of that. Whether you do it with a brush or a roller or potentially even spray, it is completely up to you as well. Someone has text through this an interesting one. It was a painting question, but it
kind of isn't. So they have a large house at ground level with internal guttering that sort of class facier type arrangement and replacing it has been quoted out at a rate that they can't afford. Seemingly, it's sound and I'd like to preserve it by painting it on the inside. Can you paint it? There are coatings that you could use, and I was talking to the guys from Polymer Systems who do Injuris as a coating that you could apply to extend the life. So have a look for in
Juris e n d urs. That might be a product that you could apply to the inside. Tricky in those spaces sometimes, but it will probably extend the life of it. Otherwise, have a look at some of the really clever systems that are available for swapping this out. I know it's been a bit of a perennial topic on the show. The whole internal what we call internal spouting, so you'll have a facier board that's metal and then the spouting
is clipped into the inside of it. They can be problematic and I noticed even actually at the Home Show Home and Garden Show continuous group of there and they've got a system which allows replacement that comes off facier goes on, external spouting goes on, so there is ready made systems available to swap those out.
Right.
We are going to talk all things building and construction for the next half hour through to late thirty. Then we're into the garden with red climb pass from eight to thirty. Your news talks, B News, Sport and weather top of the hour at eight o'clock back after that.
Were helping you get those DIY projects done right. The resident builder with Beta WOLFCAF call OH eight hundred eighty ten eighty US talk ZV.
Well, very good morning, welcome back to the program. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call. That's for all of your calls abround building regulations, products, contractors, rules, regulations. Were talked a little bit about COCs and sorry not COCs, Yeah, COCs for electrical work, coas for building work, Certificate of Code compliance on the program this morning, talking a little
bit about weather boards. We had jur painting expert on, so it's your opportunity to ask questions of a building nature right through to eight thirty and then we will jump into the garden with a ret climb pass. From eight point thirty as well. Quick couple of texts as well before we took to Lewis two large double glazed windows and endorsed stacker that are fogging inside between the glass panels. It happens after it's been sunny and then starts cooling down the cooler months of the year. Is
this normal or perhaps a sign of faulty seals? We had them installed about eight years ago, but the fogging has just started in the last year. What are our options and your advice to remedy this. Well, unfortunately, there probably is no remedy apart from replacement, so it's reasonable to expect the DJ units not to perform like that within eight years. So I think if you know who installed them or more importantly, who manufactured them, well probably
both things are actually important. So one of the things with double glazed units is when they're installed you need to make sure that they are gapped at the bottom because if they're just installed hard down onto the frame, they are likely to absorb more or it can penetrate the selant. So installation might have been the issue, or it might have been a manufacturing fault. Either way, find out who the manufacturer was and invite them back to have a look at it and see what you can do.
In terms of replacement, Do you need a building consent to replace a wooden sash single glazed window with new uPVC double glazed windows. This is for a non heritage listed or zoned house. No, you don't. So what you're talking about there is the insert might be the insert system where timber frame you keep, You remove the sashes and the mullions and any fixed sashes, and a new uPVC insert is fitted into that. I was talking actually with sort of a mate who wanted to do something
similar the other day. Put them in touch with Stark Windows. They've got a contractor who specialize in this sort of thing. So yes, it's definitely doable. If you're not changing the window, Even if you were taking the entire window out and replacing it with one pretty much the same size, If you're not altering the width of the opening, you don't need a building consent for that type of work. It's
done under shood. You're one of the building acts. And look, the performance games are significant obviously with the uPVC but also with the double blazing. Put those two together, it'll transform the house. Oh wait, one hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number to call.
Hello, Lewis good a Peter.
I'd like to talk to you about the Fencing Act, sure if I may. I live in North wite Kadow. I looked up the White Kadow website and they told me the Fencing Act was nineteen seventy nine, and I couldn't find any update date for the current Fencing Act, which is, as you know, six hundred diameter, six hundred deep footings, one hundred posts, two two meters center, maximum free rails, etc. Could you give me that date that come into forest please.
I don't know that there's actually been an update since the date that you mentioned. I think what might have changed is the definition of a standard fence, because prior to that time a standard fence was actually I think it was a couple of warritas and three rows of number eight fencing wire that was considered a standard fence. So now it is as you've described it. Good on you for reading through it. I'm a little bit intrigued about the six hundred diameter hole for the post to
sit in. That seems a bit excessive, like that's a lot of concrete around one hundred bi hundred post.
Yes, well that's what that's where I believe the requirement is.
Okay, well, that's interesting. I'm a little bit skeptical, to be fair, that seems like a very detailed and very and quite an excessive I mean, if I'm doing a fence, I'm not using a six hundred orger and then putting
one hundred bye hundred posts in there. You know, I might be using a three hundred orger and then may be squaring it off a bit, but it ain't going to be six hundred but either way, So I think what it is is the definition of a standard fence has changed, but the act in terms of you know, having to write a letter, in terms of engagement with the neighbor, their contribution and so on, that stayed the same.
The principles have stayed the same. It's only the specifics around what is a standard fence that's changed.
Oh, I'm surprised that I've built a few offences in my time on why Hickey had a whole lot of special requirements for putting in fences, even had to get the council to come out and verify where you're going to dig the holes for the posts. And you've got to dig them by hand. They were all three hundred diameter posts. The last fence I built on my Hickey, I was under the new system of two meter maximum centers. They required six hundred diameter footings poured in plastic bags.
At the moment, I couldn't find any date where this new requirement come into force, but I think it was about two thousand and two thousand and five somewhere around there.
So I've just had a look. So there's the Fencing Act nineteen seventy eight is still called the Fencing Act nineteen seventy eight, but there is a version, an updated version twenty thirty December twenty twenty three, twenty three.
I was right on the money twenty twenty three. Well that's what I'm at.
Yeah, But just just for clarity, I think if you know, like if counsel are involved in the fence, then I wonder whether that fence is then part of a building consent, in which case you know there will be specific design and so on. Typically you don't need a building consent to do a boundary fence between two neighbors. If it's not retaining or it's not it doesn't have a surcharge, or it's not over a certain height and that sort of thing. Yeah, it won't get specific design.
Right. Well, the situation I'm in, I've got a neighbor who's removed the support from the ground around right the area up underneath the fence posts into our by at least fifty millimeters, and he's removed all the support around the foundations of the fence, which are six hundred diameter with one hundred posts. The builder had recently replaced a fence which was built in nineteen ninety five, and this was done about six months ago. That seems all right.
This neighbor has cut the back of the fence. He's removed all the support, exposed all the fence foundations. He's taking a dry concrete cutting sare or whatever, and he's cut down the back of the posts. So he's cut two hundred and fifty millimeters off the back of the concrete foundations and then knocked it off with a sledgehammer, and he's taken it down about four hundred and fifty millim meters in some places. I haven't measured any of
these because I haven't been over there. I've just been looking over the since I've sewn the council and they've basically done nothing.
No, they'll regard it as a civil matter.
So where do I go?
Now?
Go to the courts?
Yeah, pretty much.
So there is.
Under the property law, so Property Act right, there is some provision around you know, if a neighbor undermines you fence,
you can make a claim against the neighbor. And that sounds exactly like what they've done, you know, And I mean, you know, what you would hope is that if for example, they were doing some earthworks on their side to get a driveway, and for example, and they needed to get the levels down and they were going to have to undermine your fence, they would also put in a retaining wall that would then offer some support to the fence.
But that comes a civil matter. So yeah, it is, you know, I mean the you might want to get your lawyer involved, or you might want to do your own sort of legal research and then take a claim through the disputes tribunal to see whether or not you can get a contribution for a new retaining wall, or just go over have a conversation and go look, you've obviously dug down the fence is going to fall over.
Can you do a retaining wall there? And you might contribute to it, you might not, but it'll it'll always be just a discussion between you and the neighbor.
I actually live in a retirement village.
Whoever you're you're acting for might be you know, whoever you whoever the interested parties are, they'll have to have a bit of a discussion and determine how they're going to resolve that. But you know, look, I get the frustration,
and it happens a lot with developments. There's a big article in the paper the other day a family came home find their hedge, their four meter high hedge had been removed right because the builder next door cut through all the roots and then thought, oh, it looks like they're going to fall over. I'll just take them out. Well, that sort of thing. Have the conversation first seems to be the answer. Good luck with all of that, Lewis, and good on you for looking after somebody else as well.
Oh wait, one hundred eighty ten eighty is the number to call quick one from you, Bob? How are you hello, Bob? He might have wandered off, Well, come back with Helen after the break. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty. We're taking building calls right through eight thirty. Rit climb passed from eight thirty this morning measure twice.
God was but maybe call Pete first for your Wolf gave the Resident Builder News Talk said be.
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Zibbie righty oh.
We are talking all things building and construction right up to a thirty Helen greetings to you.
Good morning to you.
Indeed, how can I help?
I've got a thirty three year old house. I've got a balcony out of my upstairs bedroom which is some tiles. It's a wooden balcony. It's good tiles which and I think you know underneath ye. Over the last eighty months I've had a huge subdivision development going on less than three meters away, so hence wild there was a couple of cracktailes. I've got, you know, really bad cracktailes, and the groutings are loose and everything else. I'm looking at
selling shortly. Do I when do I replace it? Before I fell on two I have had one quote which is about twenty fourced out. Is there something cheaper you can do it with? About maybe the tiling or do I need to replate the waterproofine.
I guess the first question is does it leak.
Downstairs? Yeah, there's one week occasionally when the wind blows ways that I've had it tested three or four years ago and the guys couldn't find a leak by actually screwting.
The deck.
The deck type thing.
So in most instances, because again, if you're going to sell, it's going to be one of the questions, and certainly any halfway decent pre purchase inspection person who comes to look at it will go okay. So what we see here is you know, timber, substrate, butanol application direct fix tile. Now, even if the job was done really, really well, there's a couple of things. One is you're not allowed to build like that anymore for a number of good reasons.
The other one is that it's possibly reaching the end of its life, and serviceability is difficult because if there's a problem with the waterproofing, you can't get to it because the tiles are stuck down to it. Certainly removing the tiles is going to damage the waterproofing, in which case you need to replace or repair the waterproofing membrane, and then you can't direct fixed tiles down to waterproofing membrane anymore. So you could do like a timber deck, or you could use jacks with tiles.
Yeah, so that legally that you can't now direct.
Well, it's certainly not compliant with the building code anymore to direct fix it. And to be fair, I'd be disappointed if a contractor came along and did what was there already, even if they said, look, it's maintenance, I'm doing like for like. The reality is we know that these things cause a problem, and so you don't want to leave that problem with somebody else. In fact, if they were to do it and you sold the house and there's a problem with it, they would be I
think liable for the repairs. So I mean there are some systems whereby you could, for example, have the tiles removed.
There will likely be some damage to the butteanyl if the buttanyle generally is in reasonable condition, as in it's still well adhered to the substrate, you could do a coating over the top of that and then place what they could like booz on jacks or they're like a plastic jack that you can put down on top, and then you can get some of them which allow you to put tiles directly on them, so thickt tiles like a nineteen mill tile and have effectively a floating deck
or floating surface over the top of the waterproofing. The advantage of that is that if there was ever a problem with the waterproofing, you can lift those out and get access to the waterproofing for repair. So that would be a much more cost effective solution, you know, But there's you've got to be realistic around the limitations of
how waterproof that might be. If you had extensive waterproofing issues, and you know, in all fairness to the contractors, typically if you were doing that work and you wanted to do a sort of absolute belt embraces approach, you might be taking the joinery out, you'd be taking the lower parts of the cladding off, you'd be stripping off the waterproofing completely. You might find for that vintage that the plywood that's underneath it will be untreated. In some cases,
I've seen that plywood fix down with clouds. The clouds work their way out of the joist and then the head pops up above the plywood and is visible, and that can be I've seen it cut through the waterproofing. So then you say, okay, well then my ply would's no good, So I'm going to rip up all the ply, would replace that, maybe increase the fall threshold might not be one hundred and fifty millimeters, which it's required by the code. Now you can see how these things get complicated.
Yes, exactly.
Yeah, sorry, But in terms of a straightforw.
Would repair, it would be remove the tiles, apply waterproofing coating that is compatible with the bututinyl, and there are some of those. There's one product called Injurist that I've used recently, not for that application, but a similar type thing. Then you know the jacks and the tiles, that'll give you a finish that's maintainable, attractive to look at, and you know it's a reasonable solution.
Yeah.
Is there any other sort of like I was sort of looking like a place called Superior Waterproofing of something. Is there any other besides putting tiles down? Any other options?
Well, essentially you either tend to go tiles or timber. Right, so you might make up a raft like a timber raft that sits on these jacks on these pedestals. The whole thing is whatever we put over waterproofing in that situation where it's protecting a habitable space below has to
be serviceable. So whatever decking system, whether it's tiles or timber, that you put down, has to be designed in such a way as it can be demountable, can be lifted up, and you can get access to the waterproofing for maintenance. So yeah, you can do timber or you can do tiles. All right, all right, couple of options therefore you okay, thank you very much, good luck all the us. Take care of them, all of us. Quick text before we
get rid. Actually this is really interesting. One morning, I've sold part of my land so the neighbors can create a driveway for better access to their property. We had someone come over quote the work, accepted it and it got underway. Halfway through, they realized that a retaining war was needed and wanted to charge us an extra thirty grand to complete this. Where do myself and the contractors stand. The contractor has taken some ownership, but the quote has
changed significantly since then. It's a really challenging one because you know, like a reconably well informed contractor will know what the heights will be, and you know it's not like a retaining wall magically suddenly becomes necessary. So you know,
was there a problem with the scope of works? You know, when asking the contractor to price for work, did the floor levels or the finished ground levels not be clearly identified or did he just simply or they not take responsibility take due care here to ensure that if they were going to excavate down half a meter, for example,
then you're going to need a retaining wall. But of course if it's not in their quote, if they didn't quote for a retaining wall, then it becomes a kind of ethical thing as to should they have informed you that a retaining war was likely so that you could price it into the job. Be interesting to know how you get on with that one. Rdio, let's jump into the garden rid climb past is on standby back with rut in just a moment viewing of.
The house extorting the garden, asked Pete for a hand.
The Resident Builder with Peter Wolfcamp Call oh eight eighty News Talks EDB.
For more from The Resident Builder with Peter Wolfcamp.
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