Have you ever tried a hard climb or a hard move and immediately said, “I just need to get stronger,” but then a few attempts later you just do the thing? Did you somehow magically get stronger in those few attempts? No, of course not. A lot of things could have happened in those few attempts, but what didn’t happen is you gaining strength. We should know better than to use, “I just need to get stronger,” as an excuse to quit, but it keeps happening... Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video ...
Jun 30, 2025•8 min
When it comes to putting effort into climbing, there are 3 types of climber. All can be effective, but one type is ALWAYS better. Which are you? Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Try Harder Toolkit Metrics for Climbers | Strength and Endurance Standards How to Climb Harder: What Data From Over 600 Climbers Tells Us The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement Cli...
Jun 23, 2025•16 min
Not all training needs to be indoors. If you're lucky enough to be able to spend a large amount of your time outside, it might make sense to use some of that time for training rather than performance. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss examples of how we can do this without sacrificing our performance time. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution Patron Question: Climb...
Jun 19, 2025•53 min
Toe-hooking is a technique that is very often misunderstood in two principal ways. This confusion leads to toe hooks seeming harder and more like sorcery than other techniques. But you’re probably just going about it the wrong way. Most people don’t need to get stronger. They need to get better. They need a better understanding of the move itself... Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episod...
Jun 09, 2025•18 min
When I finished my 100th 5.13 sport climb and was writing a book about the lessons I learned along the way, something became clear to me. There is one single skill that trumps all others when it comes to being able to climb 5.13. It’s not better footwork, it’s not a stronger pull-up, and it’s not more finger strength. Those things can – and often do – play a big part. But if you don’t have this one skill dialed in, those things may be rendered nearly useless... Read the rest on the blog ! Watch ...
Jun 02, 2025•11 min
The length of time we spend working a project often depends on the strength of our projecting game – particularly what we do on those important working attempts. Many of us either keep working things when we should have sent weeks ago, or we cut off the working goes and start redpoint attempts way too early. The best climbers put themselves into send position with fewer working attempts, and know when they are ready to get it done. So the question is: How can we make better use of our working go...
May 22, 2025•1 hr 8 min
There's one simple thing that can result in the biggest performance gains in your climbing, no matter what level you’re at. And you can implement it right now. I’m going to tell you not only what this simple superpower is, but also what the sports research says about how you can give it an even greater boost... Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: The Atomic Ele...
May 12, 2025•10 min
Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the final of those five aspects: principle vs. prescription in climbing training. This episode originally aired on March 23, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 1...
Feb 21, 2025•41 min
Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the fourth of those five aspects: Training where you are currently instead of where you want to be. Starting where you are is an important first step that is often missed. This episode originally aired on March 22, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related a...
Feb 13, 2025•30 min
Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the third of those five aspects: should climbers generalize or specialize? There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate to focus on one aspect of it. But how do we know when to do which? This episode originally aired on March 21, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLOR...
Feb 06, 2025•54 min
Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the second of those five aspects: the pros and cons of building a grade pyramid vs. a tower. Is one better than the other? When is each appropriate? How might one or the other impact your future climbing? This episode originally aired on March 20, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHE...
Jan 30, 2025•49 min
Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the first of those five aspects: the Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing. So what is it, where does it often happen, and how can we make sure we are getting the right thing – quality or quantity – in our climbing? This episode originally aired on March 19, 2018. _________________________ �...
Jan 23, 2025•42 min
Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it. Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a. Jibé Tribout is a French and world climbing legend who, through the 80’s and 90’s, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c. They discuss: Pushin...
Jan 16, 2025•1 hr 8 min
An update on where we've been, where we're going, and my new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's. Check out the new book!
Dec 17, 2024•13 min
Joy Black is a mother of three, and a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers. In this episode, Kris and Joy go trimester by trimester, looking at training and logistical considerations for pregnant climbers and their partners. Check out all of Joy's courses . Sign up for Joy's newsletter . Save 50% on your first month of Beta for the Bump training using code PCCBFTB at checkout! Get on the waitlist for The Postpartum Project training. __________...
Oct 21, 2024•2 hr 8 min
This is the final episode in this special series with host Emily Chen-Newton. In keeping with the themes of community-built and community-led, this episode features three truly incredible blind athletes leading the conversation. Emily takes a step back from the mic as Justin Salas, Seneida Biendarra, and Chaz Misuraca carry us through a conversation about each of their unique and ongoing journeys with vision loss and how climbing – the sport, and the community – provides support. We begin the co...
Oct 17, 2024•1 hr 32 min
Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg are an up-and-coming climbing power couple. From Michigan, they call the Red River Gorge their home climbing area, and they are making sure to cement their place there. After using one of our Ebook training plans, they both had breakout seasons – and then they upped the ante the following season without any additional training. In this BUILDER episode, we discuss the plans they chose, how the training went, how they fit it into their busy lives, and ultimately, the de...
Oct 03, 2024•1 hr 28 min
Kris and Nate decide on their favorite movie theater candy and then watch Devotion: Jakob Schubert's Journey to the Top, released by Mammut. They discuss the film and the takeaways from it that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. Film Credits: Yucca Films Online Climbing Films from the 1990s More Movie Night episodes _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episode...
Sep 27, 2024•34 min
Kris and Nate get a popcorn and watch Arcteryx Presents: Passion featuring America's most prolific sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist. They discuss the style of the film, Ryan White's editing, how difficult it is to make sport climbing look hard (or interesting) and the lessons that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. The Lil Yachty Walk Out video discussed. Film Credits: Director: Ryan White DP: Ryan White + Marco Zanone Photography: Ryan White Music: Dubspeeka + Thimble _____________...
Sep 20, 2024•45 min
Today's episode, which comes to us from Every Body Climbs, features Melissa Ruiz. Melissa has been climbing and competing for about 6 years. She’s got a collection of medals to her name, including five gold, from national and world paraclimbing championships/cups. But recently she's started climbing outside, and to put it lightly, she is stoked. So, this October (2024) she'll be teaching an aid climbing workshop at the Adaptive Climbers Fest in the Red River Gorge. Aid climbing is part of how Me...
Sep 19, 2024•50 min
Of all of the elements of climbing movement, Rhythm is the most overlooked. What's more, it's often the reason we fall, even if it appears to be something different. Learn how to spot when Rhythm is a problem and how you can get better at making sure Rhythm isn't holding you back. Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! Check out The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and oth...
Sep 04, 2024•16 min
Kris and Nate sit down to watch In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering from Patagonia Films, and then discuss the film itself as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. Produced and Directed by Eric Bissell Editor David Fitzgerald Director of Photography Eric Bissell Executive Producers Alex Lowther, Justin Roth, Kristo Torgersen Producer Monika McClure Additional Photography Owen Bissell, Spenser Tang-Smith Color Royal Muster/Greg Ree...
Aug 29, 2024•28 min
Kris and Nate sit down to watch the new climbing film Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9a/V17 x Simon Lorenzi, and then discuss the film itself, as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing. Three years ago, Simon Lorenzi climbed the first ascent of the second 9a boulder in the world. This is that story. Produced, directed, filmed, and edited by Gilles Charlier. Watch the film. _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join ou...
Aug 23, 2024•41 min
Nate and Ravioli Biceps have been friends for more than 15 years, since long before Ravioli became the reigning king of the Moonboard. In this conversation, they discuss the myriad of lessons they pull from video gaming that can help inform our life and climbing. Get some Ravioli Biceps merch. Find Ravioli Biceps on Instagram and YouTube . Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Check out our NEW Atomic Elements Movement Course . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these rel...
Aug 15, 2024•2 hr 6 min
Improving climbing movement is challenging. Understanding what you most need to improve is even more challenging. The discussions around climbing technique have always been either extremely abstract or specific to a single move on a single climb. It doesn't have to be that way. Check out the new course and movement evaluation tool: The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement Watch the video of Kris failing to commit. Read more and see the video for this episode on the blog . _______________________...
Aug 05, 2024•24 min
Allyson Gunsallus is a mom and climber who is directing and producing a film series called Hand Holds: Climbing After Parenthood with the aim of benefitting parental and maternal wellness in the community. Currently shooting, with plans to release in spring 2025, this free-to-watch series will feature interviews with well-known climbers to uncover how families address logistical challenges, issues like postpartum recovery, and more – topics rarely explored in climbing media. Learn more about Han...
Aug 01, 2024•56 min
Fallon Rowe has been climbing since 2003 and coaching since 2013. After a decade of youth and collegiate competitions, she found her true passion for outdoor climbing – both sport and trad. She’s spent her adult life pursuing climbing all over the world while offering (mostly) virtual coaching. In her words, she helps “climbers optimize their experience using mindset and mental performance techniques, like working on fear of falling, and analyzing movement and technique with video feedback and v...
Jul 26, 2024•56 min
There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Finger Strength Resource Page Eva Lopez | The Best Hangboard Protocol Break...
Jun 06, 2024•1 hr 11 min
Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course! In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1 , if you haven't already! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: The Boulde...
May 30, 2024•56 min
You’re scrolling Instagram or YouTube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you’ve got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you’re warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices. And you have to implement it all right now, because, well, you just do. It doesn’t matter that you have no idea if anything has worked – or will work – because the next thing could be THE thing, and you’ve been pla...
May 20, 2024•7 min
