How can a 19-year-old can afford to climb Everest? Well, Ryan Mitchell, 19, living in central Massachusetts, explains how in this podcast. Ryan, a Summit Coach client, contacted me about a year ago, wanting advice and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2022. He had little to no experience, so while I told him there were many companies who would take his money and have him on Everest, the best approach would be to wait at least a year and gain the skills and experience it would tak...
Dec 09, 2023•53 min
The past few months have been difficult in the mountaineering world. We have seen climbs on many 800ers that turned out tragically: Mohammed Hassan on K2, Anna Gutu, Migmar Sherpa, American Gina Marie Rzucidlo and Tenjen Lama Sherpa on Shishapangma. A few dramatic rescues and a never-ending quest for records. I turned to long-time alpinist Adrian Ballinger, co-founder of Alpenglow, to try and make sense of what's going on, what can be done to prevent these seemingly preventable deaths and if the...
Oct 10, 2023•52 min
I caught up with German Alpinist Jost Kobusch , who now lives in Chamonix, France, to discuss his upcoming 2023/24 winter, no O's, solo attempt of Everest's West Ridge. No climber has reached the summit using this route and precise style. He will begin climbing on December 22, 2023, the beginning of the astronomical calendar winter. He will complete his climb no later than February 28, 2024. In 2019, Jost reached his high point of 7,329-meters/23,750-feet. His second attempt in the winter of 202...
Sep 14, 2023•47 min
Norwegian Kristin Harila , 37, Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa summited all fourteen 8000ers in three months and 1 day (92 days.) The first was Shishapangma on April 26, 2023, and the last K2 on July 27, 2023. In 2022, Harila summited twelve of the fourteen, but China refused them entry into Tibet to attempt Shishapangma and Cho Oyu thus, she returned this year to complete her project. She is no stranger to mountaineering. In 2021, she became the fastest woman to climb Everest and Lhotse in a record 12 hou...
Sep 07, 2023•1 hr 13 min
Climber, author, and journalist Billi Bierling is well-known in the mountaineering world for her work with the Himalayan Database. We get to know Billi in this podcast, discuss the commercialization of mountaineering, her new book and the future of the HDB Remember to visit my blog for frequent updates on all things mountaineering. https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/
Jun 21, 2023•1 hr 17 min
The 2023 Everest spring season is over, with some records to take pride in and others to be avoided. If there were one word to summarize the season, it would be chaotic or perhaps deadly. This spring was the deadliest season in history on Everest. Nepal issued a record 478 climbing permits to foreigners. Add in one and a half Sherpa supporting each foreigner; over 1,200 people pursued the summit this spring. Fears were rampant of a 2019 repeat with long lines and deaths. The lines never develope...
Jun 02, 2023•39 min
Monday, May 22nd, was a windy but good day for summits and records. About fifty more people summited, advancing the season total to close to 500. The season could end this week as winds will become too dangerous. In this Podcast, we have reached the summit, and I describe how it feels and then the descent to Camp 2. Remember that you can see daily updates on my blog at https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/ Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything...
May 22, 2023•33 min
With masses of climbers on Everest, today we saw over 100 more summits bringing the season total to over 166 and the sixth death of the season. There were many "records" set as well, some in the beholder's eye. Several hundred remain to attempt the summit. Narrative on climbing to the summit Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
May 17, 2023•24 min
It looks like ten people summited Everest in the leading part of the first wave. Scores, if not over a hundred, are staged at Camp 2, waiting for the South Col camps to be fully stocked. The weather continues to hold with good conditions and winds under the 30 mph threshold through May 20. Many teams are eyeing Wednesday, May 17th for their summit day. Look for summits each day this week. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
May 14, 2023•24 min
As forecasted, the winds have let up, allowing the rope team to continue fixing it to the summit. This will open the mountain for scores for clients with one or more Sherpas in support. Look for a busy first wave of summits over the next few days. The question is, how many people will be on their summit push this weekend? Almost every team has completed their acclimatization programs and is ready. The lack of fixed rope to the summit and high winds above Camp 3 has stalled everyone, frustrating ...
May 11, 2023•16 min
The #Everest2023 season is taking shape as teams continue to acclimatize with rotations to Camps 1 and 2, with some tagging Camp 3 at 23,000 feet or 7,000 meters. In this interview with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Everest Base Camp, we discuss the record permits, his acclimatization strategy, addressing the human waste problem, the long route through the Icefall and their attempt to summit the difficult and highly technical Nuptse. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everythi...
May 02, 2023•14 min
Everest teams are doing the usual acclimatization rotations but are seeing heavy attrition that will ease crowding concerns. There's a new level of base camp luxuries that might be beyond the pale for some purists. Heavy snow is forecasted on Dhaulagiri, stalling movement there. Overall, it's been a low-drama year, thankfully. In this episode, I explore controversy on Shishapangma, exploding luxuries at Everest base Camp, and a narrative about the Western Cwm between Camps 1 and 2 on Everest. Cl...
Apr 30, 2023•27 min
Weekend Update While teams are as high as Camp 2 on Everest, most of the attention was on Annapurna, where one climber died, and two other climbers were miraculously rescued. Heavy snow hit Everest, but climbing continued. Everest Base Camp is filling up as permits topped 400, a record for the Nepal side. The fixed rope was set to the South Col. I expect it reach the summit late next week. I cover a few topics in this update: - Noel Hanna death on Annapurna - Annapurna Anurag Maloo miracle rescu...
Apr 23, 2023•24 min
This was a week of highs and lows across the Himalayas. On Everest, three Sherpas lost their lives in the Icefall. The season's first 8000 meters summits occurred on Saturday, April 16, on Annapurna. Everest Base Camp is filling up as permits top 300. And a description of the first days at base camp and the puja. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Apr 16, 2023•21 min
Lukas Furtenbach, a major mountaineering expedition guide company and is now a top supplier of supplemental oxygen systems to all teams climbing Everest. He partnered with Neil Greenwood of Summit Oxygen to create Everest Oxygen focusing on supplying supplemental oxygen to the mountaineering industry. His Austrian-based Furtenbach Adventures offer global climbs, including most of the 8000-meter mountains, the Seven Summits, the Volcanic Seven Summits, and Ski Mountaineering. However, they have m...
Mar 28, 2023•59 min
Scott Lehmann and Shayna Unger, are aiming to be the first American deaf couple and, to their knowledge, the second and third deaf climbers to summit Mount Everest. Also, they are trying to become the first deaf couple to compete the Seven Summits. Both were born, as they say, profoundly deaf, meaning they had no hearing at all. They live in the Washington, D.C., area and are educators and mountaineers. They summited Denali, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Ecuador’s Chimborazo and Cotopaxi, and Mont Bla...
Mar 21, 2023•31 min
German Alpinist Jost Kobusch became only the third person to complete a solo winter Denali Summit successfully. He summited on Sunday, February 19, 2023, around 3:00 am. I caught up with him at his home in Chamonix, France, only a few weeks after his summit. Jost style is to climb alone during a season that few other people would choose. He climbs completely unsupported and often on the most difficult routes. On Denali, he summited via the Messner Couloir. We cover route, gear, weather, what he ...
Mar 16, 2023•50 min
Becks Ferry is back in the Nepal Himalaya mountains 2023 for Makalu, but with a twist - she will climb the fifth highest peak at 27,825 feet/8481 meters without supplemental oxygen and then run the 225 miles back to Kathmandu! In 2021, along with British Professional Mountain Guide Jon Gupta, they climbed on six peaks reaching the main summits of three. Everest (Summit) Makalu (reached 7500m) Lhotse (Summit) K2 (Summit) Manaslu (Fore Summit ~8160m) Dhaulagiri (reached 7817m) We cover a range of ...
Feb 28, 2023•31 min
Welcome to the first Podcast for the Everest 2023 season. In this podcast, I talk about what we can expdct this year, now with the Tibet side closed again. I expect 2023 to be a big year for Everest-Nepal. With the COVID-19 pandemic letting up, Nepal is open. It expects many foreigners attracted by Nepali operators marketing low prices and requiring minimal climbing experience but providing tons of Sherpa support. I expect almost 1,000 total summits broken out by 400-450 foreigners from the Nepa...
Feb 25, 2023•16 min
The Manaslu 2022 season is moving nicely, with the first client summits for the season on Thursday, September 22, 2022. There are a record number of people there, with 400 foreigners with permits and an equal or greater r number of support climbers, so it's crowded. This means there is an opportunity for more trash, crowds, and poor practices. In this podcast, I talk about my 2013 experience on Manaslu plus how we can take better care of our mountains. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything...
Sep 22, 2022•25 min
A new trend in 8000-meter climbing is how many you can get in one trip and how fast. Norweigan Kristin Harila is on track to smash long-time records this year. Thus far, she has eleven of the fourteen, all with climbing Sherpas, Pasdawa Sherpa , and Dawa Ongju Sherpa , of 8K Expeditions . I had the opportunity to record this interview with her during a short respite back home in Norway. The current record is 189 days between April 23 and October 29, 2019, by Nirmal Purja Pun Magar and is recogni...
Aug 23, 2022•56 min
K2 had a record year this 2022 summer. Most of the summits were by Sherpas or Pakistani climbers helping their paying clients, but a handful were the rare type: no supplemental oxygen, no Sherpa support, and no commercial team. Danish climber Andreas Ritzau Frydensberg with American Eric Gilbertson summited Broad Peak on July 18th and K2 on July 28th. On his website, Country Highpoints, Eric describes their Broad Peak, and K2 climbs in detail. They climbed unsupported, using Pakastani Alpine Adv...
Aug 12, 2022•1 hr 13 min
And the summits keep going with many firsts, records, and races to the top thanks to this summer’s, and for that fact, this spring’s, unusually stable weather across the Himalayas. It’s not uncommon for climbers to have three, four, or even five, or more 8000er summits this year. Let’s run a few down with more to come before it’s all over. Big Picture The season is winding down. I think the action is over on Nanga Parbat. The snow conditions were getting too dangerous a couple of weeks ago, and ...
Jul 30, 2022•18 min
Well, the K2 climbers pulled it off. Congratulations to the 150++ who summited and especially to the Sherpas who fixed the lines to the summit. The weather cooperated, and there were limited problems, albeit with one death and one K2 climber is currently missing. We are approaching 200 K2 summits. Big Picture Summits Continue, Missing K2 Climber Several media outlets report that Canadian Richard Cartier, 61, is missing while descending from a rotation to lower Camp 4. He was last seen between C2...
Jul 25, 2022•19 min
If you follow mountaineering, Adventure Consultants is one of the names that evoke almost three decades of memories. Guy Cotter, who began running the company in the mid-1990s, has deftly led his team through years of climbs worldwide. But in 2020, COVID was too much, and Guy made the difficult decision to put AC into 'hibernation.' Now, in 2022, he is ready to resume operations, smaller, leaner, and with an increased focus on running high-quality expeditions with discerning clients. In this int...
Jul 22, 2022•34 min
This has been a ‘lay-low’ week with storms hitting the higher elevations of Pakistan’s 8000ers. Yet, there were thwarted attempts. Many teams are finalizing preparations for their summit pushes beginning soon in what could be very short weather windows, but the predicted conflict with so many people has begun. Big Picture – The Summit Rush With this odd statement, “We are not ready for summit push but we will give our best as always.” teams are leaving base camp for their summit pushes at least ...
Jul 16, 2022•14 min
It's been a dramatic week in the Pakistani mountains. We saw summits on a couple of 8000ers, climbers in trouble, and tragically two deaths. The weather is currently keeping the K2 teams at base camp but look for a rush starting later this next week—all in all, a normal season thus far, despite the record number of climbers. Big Picture - Will 2022 K2 be like Everest 2019? As I've mentioned multiple times, Pakistan has taken a page out of Nepal's tourism book and issued permits to anyone and eve...
Jul 10, 2022•17 min
Several strong Sherpas from various Nepali operators fixed the ropes on Nanga Parbat over the past few days thus facilitating a handful of clients to reach the summit. In total, there were 18 summits consisting of six members supported by 12 Sherpas, a 1:2 ratio of support. Pakistan issued 100 (member with support) permits this season; thus, look for more activity on Nanga. Big Picture The 2022 summer season is moving along with few, if any, issues reported by the teams. Most are talking about g...
Jul 03, 2022•20 min
We sometimes hear about a climber who has to make a tough decision as we follow mountaineering each season. Usually, it involves weather moving in that might jeopardize the team's safety or rescuing a teammate. Well, this spring, my long-time friend, Wilco van Rooijen, 55, faced a difficult decision, but it involved staying true to his style. The Dutch mountaineer cheated death in 2008 on K2, but we both lost a dear friend, Ger McDonnell, that year. Wilco, who always climbs without supplemental ...
May 31, 2022•59 min
2022 brought even more stable weather windows than during the great Everest 2018. This May, a stalled high-pressure system made for horrendous temperatures in Northern India while paradoxically creating nearly ideal climbing conditions across much, but not all, of the Himalayas. The net result was nearly 650 people summiting from Everest's Nepal side and another 50 on the Tibet side. Unlike previous seasons, this spring saw more experienced climbers resulting in fewer deaths, rescues, and an ove...
May 29, 2022•34 min
