Summits! We have summits in the Karakoram on Sunday, July 20, 2025. Also, climbers are acclimatizing at Camp 3 on BP, and most teams seem focused on an upcoming summit window around the end of July. Conditions are finally improving in the Karakoram after days of high temperatures, winds, and even snow and rain. One issue is that crows are eating food left at high camps! Tragically, one climber died last week on K2 from rockfall. Also, improvements are made for locals and visitors trekking the Ba...
Jul 20, 2025•9 min
Teams are finally progressing across the four northernmost 8000-meter peaks: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, and Gasherbrum II. Multiple teams report reaching as high as Camp 3 on these peaks, thus setting an optimistic tone for summits this season. Although rockfall remains a clear and present danger, leaders feel more comfortable after recent snowfalls. However, climbers still need to be thoughtful and cautious about avalanche danger, as shown by the rescue of a stranded and injured Polish climb...
Jul 15, 2025•28 min
The Karakorum's drought continues due to the low snowfall from Spring combined with warmer-than-normal temperatures; thus, rockfall is a real danger on K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat and the Gasherbrums. Ryan Mitchell and his K2 team are acclimatizing on a nearby unclimbed peak, hoping for snow in the next two weeks. They're doing well, but patience will be tested this year on all the mountains. I discussed the hot weather with meteorologist Chris Tomer.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://...
Jul 09, 2025•14 min
Teams are arriving at K2 Base Camp, but communications are limited, so not much information is coming out. We know that conditions are harsh, with high temperatures and low snow in the lower mountains. Given the absence of snow, climbers are concerned about rockfall this year. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/03/k2-2025-coverage-teams-at-bc-and-trekking-first-summits-2/
Jul 03, 2025•6 min
NOTE: This Podcast has extensive pictures so best viewed instead of listened to. Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, has gained considerable recognition thanks to his impressive video documentation of his 2024 summit of Mt. Everest with Madison Mountaineering. Exciting news! He’s all set to leave for K2 on Saturday, June 21, 2025. You may recall that in December 2022, Ryan contacted me for guidance and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2023. He was new to climbing, so I advised...
Jun 17, 2025•1 hr 51 min
The 2025 Everest expedition has come to a close, marked by strong winds, drones, challenging climbing, and innovative strategies. Along the way were reports of frostbite and helicopter evacuations, but many of these incidents went unreported to avoid negative publicity. Not all was bad, and one climber stood out: a German alpinist, Anja Blacha, made a near-solo ascent (she summited the same day as 30 other people), unsupported, setting a record. This is something we often overlook in our fast-pa...
Jun 11, 2025•38 min
What a week on Everest! We had both regular and unique summits, some of which may have unintended consequences for years to come. On the other 8000ers, the season came to a close with a few inspiring stories. The action is not over quite yet, even with an impending storm threatening to close the Icefall early next week, but allowing the remaining Tibetan side teams to summit a deserted peak. A narrative on descending from the summit of Everest and returning home with lessons from the mountain. #...
May 25, 2025•36 min
Blustery conditions stalled most summit attempts last week, but a few teams managed to reach the summit, bringing the total number of Everest summits to over 200. May 14th, 15th and 18th, 2025, were big days on Everest despite the strong winds on the first two. And today, May 18th, we saw more Nepal side summits and the first commercial team summit on the Tibetan side. Hundreds more are staged for their attempts, spread from Camp 2 to the South Col, or Camp 4. Meteorologists have told leaders to...
May 18, 2025•40 min
Summit, Forest, summit! With decent weather, climbers took full advantage of summiting four of the 8000ers, including the first Everest summits, with more teams on their way this season. One person attempted to set a speed record on Everest. The fixed line is to the summit of Lhotse and the Nepalese and Tibetan sides of Everest. 8K Expeditions did an excellent job of being dedicated and patient with high winds. With 456 Everest and 107 Lhotse permits issued, look for summits daily as the winds a...
May 11, 2025•20 min
The last few days of low winds have allowed the rope fixing teams to make excellent progress. The rope team from 8K Expeditions summited Lhotse this afternoon, May 8, 2025, marking the first summits of the year. A separate team from 8K will summit Everest tomorrow. This opens the season to the plethora of climbers already staged at Camp 2, just waiting for this event. The Tibetan rope-fixing team has reached 7900 meters or higher on the Tibetan side. I anticipate they will summit over the weeken...
May 08, 2025•13 min
Poor weather is delaying getting the fixed ropes to Everest's summit on both sides but is looking better. The Nepal side Everest permits have reached 444, with more permits issued each day. EverestER has seen over 400 patients thus far. Some teams have completed their acclimatization protocols while others haven't started. An interesting season to be sure! Also a narrative on climbing From Camp 1 in the Western Cwm to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. Each weekend during the season, I'll post a "Weeken...
May 04, 2025•31 min
Drone crash, Icefall collapse, ropes to Camp 3, and climbers tag Camp 2. 374 Everest permits thus far, but only 48 on the Tibet side. It's been a busy week on Everest. https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/27/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-27-on-the-move/
Apr 27, 2025•33 min
The 2025 season is well underway, and more teams arrive at Everest Base Camp each day. The Icefall Doctors have the fixed line to Camp 2, where 8K Expeditions will take over and fix the route to the summit. I expect them by early May. It's a tough job, to be sure. Also, a short narrative on the puja ceremony. This may go down as the season of stunts, pleasing those who have called Everest a circus for years. Game on! #everest2025 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com...
Apr 20, 2025•21 min
As I previously reported, two Sherpas lost their lives when struck by an avalanche on the 8000er, Annapurna, on April 7, 2025. Ngima Tashi and Rima Rinje were swept into a deep crevasse between Camps 2 and 3. Four days later, Sherpas located their bodies using RECCO reflective technology after several helicopter searches proved unsuccessful. Retrieval was not attempted due to the bodies being inside a deep crevasse and the ongoing avalanche danger. In the Podcast are multiple still images from h...
Apr 15, 2025•52 min
It was a tough week in the Himalayas. We saw summits on two 8000ers, two Sherpas died, and the Icefall Doctors finally got the route to Camp 1 through the Khumbu Icefall. Also, it feels like the early predictions of a record and crowded Nepal side are coming true, with more permits issued at this time than last year. #everest2025 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/13/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-13-icefall-in-summits-and-deaths/...
Apr 13, 2025•17 min
Despite ominous weather and route conditions, various media reports have at least four climbers summiting Annapurna on Sunday, April 6, 2025. Early reports of disturbing conditions on Annapurna seem to be mirrored on Everest. The Kumbu is buzzing with activity, and the Icefall Doctors are struggling again this year to get the route through the Icefall. In other words, busy as usual in the mid-2020s. #everest2025 https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/06/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-6-1st-...
Apr 06, 2025•8 min
Early data suggest Everest will see a record year, primarily driven by Chinese and Indian clients. I won’t be surprised to see over 1,000 total summits from both sides. The Icefall Doctors are already at work. Sherpas are setting up Base Camp, which is starting to look like a small city. The Himalayan winter was warm and dry, causing the snow line on Everest to move higher and increasing the chances of rockfall. Climbers need to be very aware and stay safe this season. #everest2025
Mar 30, 2025•20 min
This is the Weekend Update for Everest 2025. The season is about to get started in earnest. Climber after climber and team after team are leaving home. In many cases, scores of Sherpas are on their way to Everest Base Camp to begin the arduous process of establishing a home for over 1,000 people this spring season. The Icefall Doctors are already at work. #everest2025
Mar 23, 2025•19 min
Deaths on Carstensz Pyramid, one of the Seven Summits, are rare, but two women tragically lost their lives on March 1 while descending during a storm. The 4,884-meter (16,024-foot) peak poses challenging logistics and is the most technical of the seven, requiring basic rock climbing skills for primarily 5th-class terrain on fixed ropes. Interview with Garrett Madison from CP
Mar 03, 2025•17 min
German Alpinist Jost Kobusch is back home after accomplishing his objective of a winter, solo, no-O’s climb to tag over 7500 meters on Everest’s West Ridge. In this podcast, we go into deep detail on his climb. If you are a climber, explorer or sour on the entire Everest scene, this is for you. #everest2025
Feb 01, 2025•54 min
Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 9, Acocangua with special guests Garret Madison and Ed Viesturs. Next week, I wrap up this series with an Everest episode and special guests Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow and Mike Hammill, founder of Climbing the Seven Summits. #7summits Aconcagua is the highest peak in South America, at 22,902/6960m. It is an excellent warmup b...
Nov 15, 2024•38 min
Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail for eight weeks. Today is Episode 8, Denali, with special guest Dahn Hahn, who has summited it 38 times. #7summits Alaska's Denali is the highest peak in North America at 20,310 feet (6,190 meters). It requires the strongest fitness level, Everest's altitude notwithstanding, of the Seven Summits to climb. Yet it offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on the ...
Nov 09, 2024•1 hr 25 min
Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 7, Kilimanjaro. #7summits Of all the Seven Summits, Kilimanjaro offers a two-for kind of "climb." Well, to be accurate, it's more of a trek to 20,000 feet and a safari for those wanting more Africa. The experiences are a cultural treat made special by everyone you meet in restaurants and hotels, not to mention the guides, porters and saf...
Nov 02, 2024•18 min
Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 6, Elbrus, Russia. #7summits Of all the Seven Summits, Elbrus offers a unique cultural experience as it lies in Russia. Thus, it is the highest peak in Europe and is considered an active volcano. Mont Blanc is second and highest in Western Europe. The Ukraine war has discouraged many climbers from going there, but a few still make it, in...
Oct 25, 2024•14 min
Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 5, Carstensz Pyramid Of all the Seven Summits, Carstensz Pyramid, aka Puncak Jaya, in New Guinea is undoubtedly the most exotic and technical to climb. It's also part of the "list" discussion. Are there seven or eight "Seven Summits?" But just getting there can be the real challenge. The Freeport Mining company controls the ...
Oct 17, 2024•13 min
Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 4, Antarctica's Vinson Massif. The Vinson Massif is 16,050 feet/4892 meters high. The elevation gain from Vinson Base Camp to the summit is 9,160 feet/2792 meters, all on snow and ice-covered terrain. The primary issue most climbers face is the endless winds. Snow walls built from snow blocks carved out of the landscape are ...
Oct 11, 2024•16 min
Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. Episode 1 is an introduction plus a brief update on the Autumn climbing activity in Nepal and Tibet. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the Seven Summits in detail. Today is episode 3, Mt. Blanc. OK, I know what you are thinking, "Alan, Mont Blanc is not one of the Seven Summits!" Yeah, I know, but hear me out. On the border between France and Italy, Mt. Blanc stands at 15,771 feet or 4807 meters hig...
Oct 04, 2024•12 min
Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. Episode 1 was an introduction plus a brief update on the Autumn climbing activity in Nepal and Tibet. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is eposide 2 Mt. Kościuszko.Australia's Kościuszko (7,310'/2228m), located in the Snowy Mountains, is the lowest of the 7 Summits but is perhaps the most controversial. First, there is the pronunciation, then there is the debate about ...
Sep 30, 2024•9 min
Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. Episode 1 is an introduction plus a brief update on the Autumn climbing activity in Nepal and Tibet. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. The Seven Summits, aka 7S, represent the highest point on each of the seven continents. However, as with most things in mountaineering, there is controversy. From a geological viewpoint, there are only six continents on Earth: Africa, Antarct...
Sep 19, 2024•13 min
Many of you have followed and know about Massachusetts native 19-year-old Ryan Mitchell, who summited Mt. Everest on May 23, 2024! In this extensive podcast, we discuss his experience from training to the summit and back home. https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/06/07/everest-2024-podcast-ryan-mitchell-on-his-everest-summit-life-changing/
Jun 07, 2024•1 hr 21 min
