Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more. Holiday Gift Ideas: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift Gift a Patreon subscription 👆 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nu...
Dec 02, 2024•2 hr 25 min
Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with Magic Line, disconnecting self-worth from achievement, the unwinnable game of climbing, personal evolution, why she loves human stories, and much more. Her new book, A Light Through the Cracks: A Climber’s Story is available now. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing BetterHelp: betterhelp.c...
Nov 25, 2024•1 hr 59 min
Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, finding contentment, having kids, and much more. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Crimpd: crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app for free! Phys...
Nov 18, 2024•2 hr 29 min
Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux as a teenager, beer diets, his relationship with his brother Alex, challenges, silver linings, partying with the Stone Monkeys in Yosemite, his new book Freiheit , and much more. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Revival Climbing Coalition: revivalclimbing.com EP 225: Tony Bell & D...
Nov 11, 2024•2 hr 14 min
Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can sign the petition here ! Sign the Petition: Petition to Permanently Protect the Greater Moe’s Valley Area (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSf3winkzQEwb-NI9TPPIW0yaEo1iLcifw43N0sCS5X9sW3nhQ/viewform) More Links: stgeorgeclimberscoalition.org Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-p...
Nov 04, 2024•35 min
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue progressing in your climbing. We cover the importance of focusing on skills rather than grades, doubling down on the basics, how to continually progress as a climber, and much more. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes: thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals The NUG: frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-...
Oct 28, 2024•1 hr 22 min
Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign wars, how the coming election could affect the future of democracy, mainstream media, censorship and free speech, abortion, the steel man case for Kamala and Trump, and much more. Join Kaizen’s Courage Collective: skool.com/courage Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kaizen-asiedu Nuggets: (...
Oct 23, 2024•2 hr 56 min
Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines , climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Chalk Carte...
Oct 21, 2024•1 hr 39 min
Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs, when it's ok to push it, thoughts on taping, pain threshold testing, acupressure rings, how to climb around a pulley injury, and more. Stay tuned for part 2 next week. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:17:15. *Watch the uncut video in...
Oct 17, 2024•32 min
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the emotional and psychological side of injuries and share some tips and pitfalls to help you get back to climbing stronger than ever. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes: thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Revival Climbing Coalition: revivalclimbing.com EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode wi...
Oct 14, 2024•1 hr 17 min
Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Ocelot Grips: ocelotgrips.com/nugget Use code “The Nugget loves cats” to...
Oct 07, 2024•2 hr 4 min
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. We cover our favorite finger training methods, key principles to follow, how to apply your strength to the rock, how to avoid finger injuries, the power of consistency, and much more. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes: thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals The NUG: frictitiousclimbing.com/products/t...
Sep 30, 2024•1 hr 42 min
Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, why he is practicing his kneebar skills, future 9b+ and 9c projects, what it meant to him to send Bibliographie, his America Tour in 2013, how onsighting Estado Critico changed his career, making changes to reach his full potential, how many carrots he eats in a day, future competition goals, and mor...
Sep 23, 2024•1 hr 19 min
Another phone call with Ron Kauk. Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish: sacredrok.org
Sep 19, 2024•43 min
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4, and the rule of 10. We also discuss why we both lift, why climbers should train differently than weight lifters, programming ideas, common mistakes, and more. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes: thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals The NUG: frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Check out my new...
Sep 16, 2024•1 hr 32 min
Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the power of climbing with a girl gang, hidden costs of making a film, trash can showers, pad-less sends, imposter syndrome, advice for aspiring filmmakers, and more. Watch Girls Gone Hueco: girlsgonehueco.vhx.tv KAYA: kayaclimb.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO. S...
Sep 15, 2024•1 hr 22 min
Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more. Watch the Video Interview of this episod...
Sep 09, 2024•2 hr 10 min
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and sharing climbs, mastering benchmark climbs, how to iterate on your climbs for incremental progress, hacks for building a home wall on a budget, and more. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes: thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals The NUG: frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Check out my new portab...
Sep 02, 2024•1 hr 11 min
Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy . We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bucket, and much more. Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Uncut Videos Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing R...
Aug 27, 2024•2 hr
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes: thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals The NUG: frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Check out my new portable hangboard de...
Aug 19, 2024•1 hr 3 min
We're back with Fundamentals Season 2 ! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into several important aspects of training, injury recovery, and how to break plateaus. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon. Listen to Fundamentals episodes: thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals...
Aug 19, 2024•6 min
Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electric” boulder, why speed was so great to watch, heartbreaking results, men’s and women’s combined finals, who we are most excited to see bring their Olympic fitness to the rocks, and much more! Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest — Uncut Video Become ...
Aug 12, 2024•2 hr
Natalia Grossman is a World Champion and 3x overall World Cup winner and will compete for Team USA at the Paris Olympics. We talked about spending time in Mexico as a kid, her breakout year in 2021, dealing with public criticism, working on her mindset, how to win without being the strongest person competing, hard outdoor sends and goals, her happiest moments, her top training advice, and much more. Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 232: Natalia Grossman — Uncut Video Become a Patron...
Aug 05, 2024•1 hr 31 min
Colin Duffy is a 2x Olympian, 3x World Cup winner, and V16 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about puzzles, studying applied math, early competitions, joining Team ABC, getting 70th in his first open event, learning how to lose gracefully, qualifying and competing in Tokyo, how the Olympic scoring has changed, his strategy for Paris, future outdoor rock climbing goals, and much more! Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 231: Colin Duffy — Uncut Video Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!...
Jul 29, 2024•1 hr 54 min
Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more! Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 230: Emma Hunt — Uncut Video Become a Patron - ...
Jul 22, 2024•2 hr 12 min
Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human nature and the joy of climbing, inspiration vs. aspiration, motivation vs. commitment, competing in Tokyo, retiring from comps, sending Hazel Grace V14 in terrible conditions, pushing for her V15 goal as a mom, and much more! Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 229: Shauna Coxsey — Uncut Vid...
Jul 15, 2024•1 hr 50 min
Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and oth...
Jul 08, 2024•2 hr 31 min
How are granite climbing holds made? Are there benefits to training on rock? In this episode, I am joined by Mads Bulow Duus and Pawel Rogowski from Nature Climbing . We go behind the scenes on the origin story of their brand, the craftsmanship behind their beautiful products, how to build a successful brand, training and skin conditioning on granite hangboards, the future of climbing holds, and much more! Use Code ‘NUGGET’ for 20% Off ANY Nature Climbing Products! ▶︎ https://natureclimbing.com/...
Jul 01, 2024•1 hr 36 min
Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method. Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut Video Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! patreon.com/thenug...
Jun 24, 2024•2 hr 36 min
In this episode, I crack open a beer with Tony Bell and David Bress, the two founders of Revival Climbing Coalition . The two of them installed my dream home wall in 2.5 hours and I was blown away by the craftsmanship and elegance of the design. We talked about their backgrounds, how they bootstrapped a climbing wall business, what sets their products apart, the biggest surprises they faced, sustainability challenges, future products and innovations, and more! Revival’s Adjustable Climbing Walls...
Jun 20, 2024•1 hr 16 min
