Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more! Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 224: Jana Švecová — Uncut Video Beco...
Jun 17, 2024•2 hr 17 min
Aidan Roberts returns to the podcast! Aidan is at the cutting edge of bouldering and is one of the most genuine people I’ve had the pleasure of talking to. We talk about professional climbing and today’s media landscape, and he brings us up to speed on the last year and a half of his climbing and shares the full stories of ‘Spots of Time’ and ‘Arrival of the Birds’, two new boulders proposed 9A/V17. We recorded this a couple of days after my chat with him and Sam on their podcast . I was honored...
Jun 10, 2024•3 hr 35 min
Paul Houghoughi ( The Climbing Physio ) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber’s bodies as we age, and more. Paul also shared helpful advice for folks who feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of injury prevention. We covered fingers, ...
Jun 03, 2024•2 hr 16 min
Keenan betrays his mustache by revealing its deepest secrets, and then talks about his experience with 'Insomniac' V16, his trips to Japan, what stood out to him about the Japanese climbing culture, favorite anime, home wall dreams, footwork tips, and his nearest misses while highballing and how they changed his feelings about future highballs. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 57:20. patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview: EXTRA: Keenan Taka...
May 30, 2024•16 min
Keenan Takahashi is one of the top boulders in the world. We talked about the origin story of his clothing company ANTIGRAV , the importance of carving out space for creativity, establishing his latest V15 FA ‘The Gold Standard’, watching Sean Bailey send ‘Devilution’, unclimbed king lines in Bishop, shifting his focus to meaningful hard climbs, his stubbornness, why trying limit moves makes him a better climber, learning the macro from the micro, accessing try hard, why he started training, upc...
May 27, 2024•2 hr 36 min
Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders and RED-S, her eating disorder as a teenager, why she plans to retire from comps, rock climbing goals, and much more! Become a Patron patreon....
May 20, 2024•2 hr 8 min
Fitz Cahall is the cofounder of Duct Tape Then Beer , and the creator of The Dirtbag Diaries and Climbing Gold with Alex Honnold. We talked about the early days of the internet, what podcasting was like in 2007, being on the fringe, storytelling, virtual reality, spending your time on the right things, the unglamorous parts of our work, results vs. success, his new book States of Adventure , and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Intervie...
May 13, 2024•2 hr 32 min
Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more! Get coaching from Mat! matwrightcoaching.com Check out Kletterkalk UK! kletterkalk.co.uk Mat's go-to chalk, and a grea...
May 10, 2024•1 hr 31 min
Dr. David Spiegel is a Stanford psychiatrist and one of the world’s most respected experts in the field of hypnosis. We talked about how our minds can make our bodies feel better, how hypnosis has helped his clients, why hypnosis is a good fit for climbers, breathing exercises for relaxation or focus, his new Reveri App , and much more. Dr. Spiegel does a self-hypnosis session with Steven to relieve stress and anxiety and you can follow along! Check out Reveri: reverihealth.app.link/nuggetclimbi...
May 06, 2024•2 hr
This is a full bonus episode for Patrons! Maddy and I catch up about our weekend sends, Maddy shares a few key nuggets from our main episode, and then gives us a 2-hour masterclass in endurance training! Listen to the end for three free endurance protocols from Lattice's new online course that you can use in your training. *Use the timestamps below if you want to skip to the masterclass. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 2:54:13. patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing...
May 03, 2024•1 hr 3 min
Maddy Cope is a world-class rock climber and the head of education for Lattice Training . We talked about Maddy’s transition from dancing to climbing, living in a shack in the woods in Chamonix, and lessons from her personal reflections on climbing. We also talked about Lattice’s new online training course that Maddy was in charge of creating and gave a discount for listeners! Check out the Lattice Training Course! Ultimate Course + Assessment Bundle Use code “NUGGET20” for 20% off! Become a Pat...
Apr 29, 2024•2 hr 40 min
Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength , and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free T...
Apr 22, 2024•2 hr 17 min
Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching session and helps him find more contentment with his climbing. Book a Session With Neely: trainingbeta.com Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! patreon.com/...
Apr 15, 2024•2 hr
Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Wa...
Apr 08, 2024•1 hr 49 min
Carlos Mason is a filmmaker and the creator of SENDING , a new film featuring Ethan Pringle, Anna Hazelnutt, and Dan Beall. We talked about how a car commercial inspired this unique film, why he chose Bishop as the primary location, writing the poem that became the narrative for the film, the connections we form through climbing, how the in-between moments make up our experience, what it took to make the film, future film projects, and much more! Watch the Film: SENDING | MHW sending.film Become...
Apr 01, 2024•1 hr 36 min
Davis Ngo (dr.climb) is a climber, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and Instagram personality. We talked about his upbringing as a first-generation Vietnamese American, blowing up on Instagram, why Sean Bailey deserves to make a living from climbing, breaking his back while highballing, overcoming fear after his injury, his dream of creating a bouldering competition in Bishop CA, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview: EP 211: Davis ...
Mar 25, 2024•2 hr 8 min
Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouTube videos , how having fun helps him send, why he loves projecting limit routes, chasing the impossible, trying ‘Silence’ 9c, sending ‘Excalibur’ 9b+, two drills for legendary endurance, supporting his girlfriend Sara through hard times with her health, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free T...
Mar 18, 2024•1 hr 38 min
Graham Zimmerman is an award-winning alpinist, writer, filmmaker, and climate advocate. We talked about his harrowing ascent of Mt. Bradley in his early 20s, getting injured in New Zealand, how his relationship with risk has evolved, losing friends in the mountains, the mystery of passion, the 100-year-plan, falling in love with his wife Shannon, getting shut down on K2 by global warming, the climate crisis, the concept of imperfect advocacy, and his new book, A Fine Line: Searching for Balance ...
Mar 11, 2024•1 hr 58 min
Jesse Grupper is a 27-year-old American who will be competing at the 2024 Olympics. We talked about his nomad lifestyle, the idea of “training trips”, climbing as an art form, the concept of optimistic training, thinking of ourselves as bodies of water, how he turned around his bouldering after placing last in his first World Cup, balancing Olympic prep with his job, soft robotics, and more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview: EP 208: Jess...
Mar 04, 2024•1 hr 39 min
Will Bosi is back to talk about sending ‘Return of the Sleepwalker, his third V17/9A! We talked about surprising himself by sending the stand start in three sessions, why ROTS suited his style better than he expected, how he trained during the bad weather breaks, his process, how he felt on the send, how ROTS stacks up against his other hardest boulders, plans to try Megatron V17 and return to Terranova V16 and Excalibur 5.15c, what he plans to try next, and more! Will’s Original Episode: EP 166...
Feb 29, 2024•42 min
Paul Houghoughi ( The Climbing Physio ) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! patre...
Feb 26, 2024•1 hr 45 min
Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! betterhelp.com...
Feb 19, 2024•2 hr 8 min
Kai Lightner is back on to talk about his recent send of 'Life of Villains' 5.14d/9a at the Hurricave! We talked about the emotional rollercoaster of sending 'LOV', how it felt to send 9a in his current body, not rushing the process, his trip to Jamaica, bolting his first route, what's going on with Climbing 4 Change, and more! Donate to C4C: climbing4change.org Kai’s Original Episode: EP 55: Kai Lightner Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Kai’s upcoming trip and project (00:03:41) – Self-preservation (00:05...
Feb 16, 2024•59 min
Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack’ using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after hard routes that will force you to grow as a climber, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out KAYA! k...
Feb 12, 2024•3 hr 17 min
Anak Verhoeven is a professional climber from Belgium and one of the most accomplished female sport climbers ever. We talked about growing up with her mom as coach and dad as trainer, why she quit competitions, dealing with a strange injury that plagued her for 3+ years, winning her first World Cup, building 9a+ endurance with mediocre training facilities, making up rules in the gym, her onsighting strategy, being public about her faith, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! patreon...
Feb 05, 2024•2 hr 45 min
Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! patreon.com/t...
Jan 29, 2024•1 hr 39 min
Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more! Jon’s Original Episode: EP 50: Jon Cardwell References: Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette’ 9a+ EP 169: Scott Johnston Training...
Jan 27, 2024•1 hr 9 min
Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more! Check out C4HP or Sche...
Jan 22, 2024•2 hr 44 min
James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learning how to train, eGrader and quantifying E grades, his decision to suggest E12 for his new route ‘Bon Voyage’, why he was afraid of becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and much more! This was one of my all-time favorite interviews. Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing ...
Jan 15, 2024•3 hr 26 min
Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day...
Jan 08, 2024•1 hr 54 min
