Scott Johnston is a world-class coach who specializes in mountain endurance sports. This episode is a masterclass in training principles and is packed full of nuggets for climbers, including boulderers. We talked about why it’s a mistake to mimic top athletes, tips for balancing climbing with other sports, capacity vs. utilization, why to back off after a personal best, developing layers of endurance, the flaw with HRV, how to test your recovery before training, how to fail successfully, the fut...
May 15, 2023•3 hr 5 min
Don McGrath is the author of Vertical Mind and an expert on mental training for climbing. We talked about the two simple diet changes he made to get back in shape in his 60s, our untapped potential in mental training, debunking and rewriting unhelpful scripts, how to tackle fear of falling and fear of failure, pre-climb rituals, how to use your climbing partner as a coach, how to stay in love with climbing as we age, duct tape and baling wire, embracing the suck, and much more! Check out The Nug...
May 08, 2023•2 hr 12 min
Have you listened to Climbing Gold ?! The new season is here! Check out the first episode of the new season, and subscribe to Climbing Gold on your favorite podcast app for more great climbing stories. Enjoy :) In the 1970’s, no flame burned brighter than Hot Henry Barber. Often heralded as the first traveling climber, Henry redefined standards for free climbing and free soloing not just the US, but every country he visited. Along the way, he shattered egos before learning to check his own. Chec...
May 04, 2023•42 min
Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough. Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more! The Nugget is on YouTube! youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbi...
May 01, 2023•1 hr 45 min
Will Bosi is a 24-year-old climber from Scotland who has emerged as one of the best climbers in the world. This interview is hot off the press! Will made the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17 less than two weeks ago and joins us for a proper geek out about the send. We talked about his process of projecting the replica and the actual boulder, his feats of finger strength and where to draw the line between party tricks and useful strength, doing the second ascent of ‘Mutation’ at Raven Tor,...
Apr 24, 2023•2 hr 4 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Katie Lamb . We talked about her recent send of Spectre V14 in Bishop CA, breaking down crux moves into multiple pieces, how she trains on a spray wall, her top 5 go-to lifts in the weight room, projecting tricks, dopamine snacks vs. substance, what she learned from Spectre, having the travel bug, goals for 2023, and more! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The ful...
Apr 20, 2023•30 min
Charlie Schreiber is a world-class climbing coach who has helped day 1 athletes become National Champions, 5.14d sport climbers, and V15 boulderers. We talked about the value of asking “why”, giving kids hard work and then reward, finding fresh lemons to squeeze, puzzle books and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker, our shared goal to climb V13, how to have a good poop in the morning (every time), and much more! Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a ...
Apr 17, 2023•2 hr 18 min
Melina Costanza is a competition powerhouse and the 2021 US Boulder National Champion. She opened up recently about her struggles with an eating disorder and decided to step away from competitions. We talked about her foot injury and surgery, why patent law is similar to climbing, how sports glamorize suffering, getting stronger during recovery, how gratitude can impact your training, and fun facts about Melina from ketchup to baby teeth necklaces. Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskinsoluti...
Apr 10, 2023•2 hr 30 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Matt Heyliger is back on the podcast and joins me to talk about my bicep tendon injury back in December in Hueco, my rehab process, and how I was able to get back to climbing V10 in less than three months. We discuss the different stages of recovery, using BFR as part of my rehab, how to make the transition back to training, and how I am currently training for an upcoming bouldering trip to Magic Wood and Rocklands. Matt's Website: mattheylig...
Apr 08, 2023•38 min
Johnny Dawes is a legendary British rock climber known for his exceptional footwork and unique dynamic style. We talked about his first ascent of Indian Face (the first-ever E9) when it was likely the most dangerous route in the world, climbing 5.13b (8a) slabs without using his hands, tips for mastering footwork, his writing practice and current book project, and life lessons involving three-legged stools, omelets, pasta, icebergs, and more. Watch This Video! Johnny's 7-Minute Video on The Guar...
Apr 03, 2023•2 hr 31 min
Fundamentals (Part 6 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I dive into how to structure your climbing year. We talk about the circumstances that led to some of our best years in climbing, the importance of having a plan and taking notes, why focus tends to produce excellence, how to build from one phase to the next, and making sure your training supports your climbing. Happy planning! Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Fi...
Mar 27, 2023•1 hr 2 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Emil Abrahamsson is back on the podcast to talk about sending his first V15. We talked about how gaining 15 lbs (6.5 kg) led to sending his hardest boulder, how and why he overhauled his training, how he’s achieved long-term finger strength gains, sending his most meaningful project with Power of Now V14, my goal to climb my first V13, his advice for me, and much more! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast...
Mar 23, 2023•40 min
Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our coffee and chocolate addictions, finding the perfect climbing partner, the biggest lessons from each discipline of climbing, suffering on the side of El Cap, botching it with tactics, and harrowing sends. Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing The Nugget is brought to you by...
Mar 20, 2023•2 hr 9 min
Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having a satisfying climbing experience. We cover some of our best projecting experiences, as well as times we botched it, and we try to pass on what we learned along the way. Have fun projecting! Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jes...
Mar 13, 2023•59 min
Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou’s vlog is such a big deal in climbing right now, why I started a channel for The Nugget , how much money YouTubers make, the keys to being successful on YouTube, top advice for all content creators, and much more! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Tom’s Other Episodes: EP 75: Tom Randall (June 21, 2021) Fol...
Mar 06, 2023•1 hr 59 min
Fundamentals (Part 4 of 6) — In part 4 of this series, Jesse and I discuss our top tips for how to improve your climbing technique, and share common pitfalls that can prevent progress. These are fundamental tips that you can practice at the climbing gym, the boulders, or the crag. We hope this episode helps you more closely examine your movement so you can level up your climbing! Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Fire...
Feb 27, 2023•1 hr 7 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tim Emmett is back on the podcast to geek out about his project Era Vella 9a (5.14d). We talked about his Fall 2022 season in Spain, lessons from 80+ days projecting the route, how he changed his diet to feel his healthiest at age 48, discovering his own personal climbing mantra, finding flow state, the value of trying something at your limit, and much more! Check out Tim's Instagram post about Era Vella Become a Patron to get access to the f...
Feb 23, 2023•29 min
Jeannie Wall (aka “The Energizer Bunny”) is a world-class skier, life-long mountain athlete, and obsessed climber. She cofounded Broad Beta to cultivate a community for women and genderqueer folks to share their stories of outdoor adventures in the mountains. We talked about lessons from her upbringing, the importance of partnerships and mentorship in climbing, slowing down to go fast, engaging with the edge of our comfort zone, ordinary people doing extraordinary things, and much more! Check ou...
Feb 20, 2023•1 hr 52 min
Fundamentals (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3 of this series, Jesse and I discuss tips and pitfalls for going on a sport climbing trip. Whether you are a weekend warrior, planning your first-ever sport climbing trip, or a seasoned veteran, we hope this episode will help you send your dream routes and enjoy your climbing along the way. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@t...
Feb 13, 2023•56 min
Caleb Robinson is an ex-competitive soccer player, elite boulderer, route setter, and photographer. He started climbing at age 17 and sent his first V13 in just four years. We talked about the biggest lessons he learned from competitive soccer, how deadlifting fixed his back, a typical week of training, his finger training journey, the power of consistency over time, finding his artistic expression in photography, and much more! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Che...
Feb 06, 2023•2 hr 23 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode!...
Feb 02, 2023•40 min
The Nugget is now on YouTube! We'll be sharing top clips from the podcast along with never-before-seen content. Subscribe before Feb 28th to enter to win a Training Bundle from Chalk Cartel, Frictitious Climbing, and Rhino Skin Solutions! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing...
Feb 01, 2023•5 min
Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Grasshopper Climbing! ...
Jan 30, 2023•55 min
Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training . We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off cou...
Jan 23, 2023•3 hr 39 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:03:36. *Watch the uncut video interview here! patreon.com/thenugget...
Jan 19, 2023•44 min
Fundamentals (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for going on a climbing trip. Whether you are planning your first-ever climbing trip, or are a seasoned climber, we think you’ll find some helpful nuggets here. We learned these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, you won’t have to. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET...
Jan 16, 2023•1 hr 1 min
Welcome to a new mini-series called Fundamentals ! My pal Jesse Firestone joins me for a six-part series that covers some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. We hope these episodes answer common questions, and provide helpful nuggets for climbers of all ability levels. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon! Listen to Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse's Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone...
Jan 16, 2023•5 min
Anna Hazelnutt is a professional climber who specializes in difficult single-pitch trad and slab climbing. But don’t let her specialization fool you—she’s an all-around badass! We talked about two of her biggest climbing achievements to date, leaning into her superpowers, top training exercises for slabs, dealing with negative comments online, embracing empathy, comedy as a mechanism for change, and much more! Check out Chalk Cartel! chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your...
Jan 09, 2023•3 hr 12 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he’s had with his clients, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute...
Jan 04, 2023•26 min
Luke Mehall is the creator of The Climbing Zine and The Dirtbag State of Mind podcast . In this episode, we take turns interviewing each other. I ask Luke why he started The Climbing Zine, what lessons climbing has taught him, what themes connect the stories he selects, and how to sustain creative work. He asks me about my origin story with The Nugget, what all of these interviews have brought to my life, and the difficulties I’ve faced along the way. Check out The Climbing Zine ! climbingzine.c...
Jan 02, 2023•1 hr 15 min
