In this short bonus episode, my friend Michelle LeBlanc joins me on the podcast to talk about Project Pride ! Project Pride is an upcoming outdoor bouldering event in Squamish, B.C, and is an opportunity for 2SLGBTQ+ individuals to connect and climb. Join us to learn more and check out the links below to reserve your spot! Preregister Here! https://www.eventbrite.ca/e/project-pride-tickets-352167872587 Gripped Article: https://gripped.com/profiles/squamish-project-pride-opportunity-for-2slgbtq-i...
Jul 14, 2022•23 min
This is my favorite episode of The American Climbing Project so far, and Devin Dabney graciously offered up the audio from his podcast so I could share it with all of you. Enjoy! Check out more episodes of ACP! americanclimbingproject.com And support Devin on Patreon! patreon.com/americanclimbingproject
Jul 11, 2022•29 min
Devin Dabney is a rock climber, routesetter, rapper, music producer, writer, and creator of The American Climbing Project podcast. We talked about using humor to talk about uncomfortable subjects, inviting people into conversations, how climbing saved his life after considering suicide, breaking down barriers to climbing, how competition makes us better, and making a difference in the climbing community. Support Devin's Podcast! patreon.com/americanclimbingproject Check out Grasshopper Climbing!...
Jul 11, 2022•2 hr 36 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Alita Contreras. We talked about mental training and how Alita trains her mind every day, what it was like working with Lattice Training, exercises and drills for improving foot tension, dealing with frustration during projecting, what it felt like to send Ferrari 5.14a, goals to climb more 5.14s, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full vers...
Jul 07, 2022•22 min
Zofia Reych is a Polish climber and anthropologist and author of Born to Climb . We talked about renovating their mid-18th century house in Fontainebleau, researching the book, identifying as non-binary and directing the Women’s Bouldering Festival , what it’s like to be autistic, key chapters in climbing’s history, losing friends in the mountains, and much more. Check out Petzl! petzl.com Or find Petzl helmets at your local climbing shop! Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use...
Jul 04, 2022•2 hr 3 min
Karly Rager is a structural engineer turned climbing coach, and the founder of Project Direct Coaching . We talked about Karly’s background and what led her to start her own coaching business, being a female in two male-dominated industries, mental strategies for developing focus and overcoming fear, transitioning between climbing disciplines, using injuries as opportunities, cultivating longevity in our climbing, valuing coaches more highly, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grassh...
Jun 27, 2022•2 hr 39 min
Magnus Midtbø is a professional climber turned YouTuber from Norway. He has climbed 5.15b (9b), and his YouTube channel recently hit 1M subscribers. We talked about burning out on competitions and starting his YouTube career, the hard work behind success, favorite collaborations, go-to climbing workouts, and takeaways from training with Adam Ondra. Check out Petzl! petzl.com Or find Petzl helmets at your local climbing shop! Check out Crimpd! crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for...
Jun 20, 2022•1 hr 43 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Chad Andrews. We talked about selling his house and living on the road full-time with his wife during covid, the pros and cons of vanlife, being your own boss, and climbing full-time, how to have a healthier relationship with money, investing principles, book recommendations, and health insurance tips for the self-employed. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The fu...
Jun 16, 2022•33 min
Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist who specializes in climbing injury rehab and prevention. We talked about freestyle rapping, the most common injuries in rock climbing, how to prevent knee, shoulder, elbow, and finger injuries as climbers, warming up your fingers at the crag, what to do to help your body recover on rest days, and much more. Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grassh...
Jun 13, 2022•2 hr 35 min
Carol Simpson is a 77-year-old rock climber and yoga instructor from Lone Pine, CA. We talked about growing up in the South in the 1950s, identifying as a “tomboy”, feeling pressure to be feminine as a teenager, embracing athletics in her 30s, discovering climbing at age 42, sending her first 5.12a at age 53, yoga as the fountain of youth, and ageism in climbing. *I loved this conversation. If you enjoy exploring different perspectives from your own, and hearing about others’ lived experiences, ...
Jun 06, 2022•2 hr 17 min
Lea Volpe is a paraclimber for Great Britain and a 2x medalist at the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships. Lea holds down a 9-5 job working in health policy, coaches junior athletes, and is essentially a professional climber on the side. We talked about paraclimbing competitions, being diagnosed with Ataxia, how we perceive wheelchairs, empathy in coaching, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500...
May 30, 2022•2 hr 20 min
Dr. Carrie Cooper is a former professional climber and a doctor of physical therapy. We talked about her background in gymnastics and dance, bouldering in the early 2000s, her path to physical therapy, referencing research in climbing, why climbers should think of themselves as athletes, and the most important things we are missing in our physical training. Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check o...
May 23, 2022•2 hr 37 min
The tables are turned in this episode! Steven Dimmitt joins Chad Andrews from Clipping Chains to talk about leaving his engineering career to start the podcast, building a craft vs. pursuing a passion, reaching more than 1M downloads, monetization, outsourcing things you hate doing, the glorification of van life, and key climbing principles he has learned from hosting The Nugget. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to sav...
May 16, 2022•1 hr 56 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Joe Kinder. I sat down with Joe in a cave in Utah to talk about his process for sending his new route ‘Mamajamma’ (5.15a?), what it felt like to send, how he would have trained this summer if he hadn’t sent, favorite workouts for power endurance, plans to try his 5.15b ‘Big Bone’ project, and what I learned from five weeks of climbing with Joe. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support...
May 09, 2022•32 min
Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicity and consistency, how to break down a bouldering project, basing your training on the demands of a specific goal, top 3 finger training methods, how to train full crimps, and much more. Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use the link above to get a free year's supply of vitamin D ...
May 02, 2022•1 hr 58 min
Paul Robinson is one of the top boulderers in the world and has been climbing at a V15 level for more than a decade. We talked about building his new house, recovering from neck surgery, his recent diagnosis of autism spectrum disorder, climbing 1000+ V11s or harder, his analogy of climbing as a book, hardest FAs, trying to climb V16, travel routines, filmmaking, and much more. Check out Chalk Cartel! chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! cr...
Apr 25, 2022•2 hr 34 min
"Steven's Blog" is now available for Patrons! In this blog episode, Steven shares a recap of his final weeks in Hueco, and his first two weeks trying a 14a in Utah. Become a Patron for $10/mo to hear more blog episodes! Plus, it helps out the show! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out the "Announcing Reflections and Steven's Blog" episode to learn more!...
Apr 23, 2022•13 min
"Reflections" are now available for Patrons! In this Reflections episode, Mina talks with Steven about an area of her climbing that she still struggles with, and about building general strength. She also talked about the different versions of ourselves we experience in life and embracing the current version of herself. Become a Patron for $10/mo to hear more Reflections episodes! Plus, it helps out The Nugget and The Curious Climber Podcast! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out the "Announcin...
Apr 23, 2022•15 min
Announcing more new content for Patrons! "Reflections" are collaboration episodes with Mina Leslie-Wujastyk and Hazel Findlay of the Curious Climber Podcast. These are short episodes where one of us shares our thoughts on something we've been thinking about, or are working on in our own climbing or lives. "Recaps" is a new episode series where I share what I have been up to for the past month, how I have been training, top 3 climbing highlights, what I could have done better, plans for the next ...
Apr 23, 2022•3 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my third Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my 2022 trip to Hueco, combining hangboarding with outdoor climbing, trip highlights, the Hueco Downward Spiral, lessons learned, and what I plan to do differently next year. *I recommend listening to Steve’s original episode and my first and second Follow-Ups with him before this episode. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The ...
Apr 21, 2022•39 min
Jordan Cannon is a professional climber who exploded onto the Yosemite scene in recent years with multiple in-a-day free ascents of El Capitan, and hard big wall linkups. We covered Jordan’s climbing origin story, playing college soccer, seeking adventure in Yosemite, van life tips, big wall pooping stories, free climbing El Cap in a day vs. multiple days, the value of dirtbagging, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them ...
Apr 18, 2022•2 hr 27 min
In Q&A 5, I tackle Patron questions about my own current hangboard training, how to fit everything in that we need to train, how to deal with bad body image, how my training and climbing have changed since starting the podcast, golden nuggets for newer climbers, where I found the theme song for the podcast, my van life internet setup, and much more. *Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timesta...
Apr 11, 2022•2 hr 6 min
Ned Feehally is Shauna Coxsey’s husband. (Just teasing Ned!) Ned is a top-level boulderer from the UK, the cofounder of Beastmaker, and the author of Beastmaking . We talked about his background in climbing, how Beastmaker got started, Ned’s approach to finger training, the benefits of board climbing, using ankle weights for body tension, and much more. Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Grass...
Apr 04, 2022•2 hr 32 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Steve McClure. We talked about highlights from the past year since our first interview, sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, takeaways from critical and peak force testing with the Lattice Team, tips for breaking through plateaus on a hard project, how to enjoy a long life of climbing, and what it means to “cook tea” in England. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full versio...
Mar 29, 2022•35 min
Dr. Favia Dubyk is a pathologist, cancer survivor, Ninja Warrior, cat lover, and badass boulderer. We talked about the connective tissue disorder that led her to specialize in lowball roof climbing, what it was like to go through cancer and chemotherapy, how she became one of the strongest people in the world at pull-ups, learning how to dyno, and her current V13 lowball roof project. Check out Chalk Cartel! chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Phy...
Mar 28, 2022•3 hr 2 min
Jerry Moffatt is one of my all-time climbing heroes. He is a British legend and was arguably the best rock climber in the world during the mid to late 80s. We talked about his early days, wanting to be a “Crag Rat”, living for free before sponsorship, pushing world standards, writing his book on mental training , and what the top climbers have in common when it comes to their mental game. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent y...
Mar 21, 2022•1 hr 53 min
This is round 2 with John Sherman aka “The Verm”. We sat in the desert near Hueco Tanks and chatted over a few beers. We talked about ‘Wheatiesgate’ and the lost art of heckling, finding and developing areas before the internet, dealing with aging, photographing and studying birds, life lessons, injury stories, and John’s favorite beers. *I recommend listening to my first episode with Verm (EP 108) before this episode. Check out Crimpd! crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app! ( Available for iOS ...
Mar 14, 2022•4 hr 7 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Josh Wharton. We talked about how his flash attempt went on ‘Freerider’ this past November, big wall tactics and Josh’s strategy, inventing the fix-and-follow system and why it’s a game-changer, and other considerations for people who want to attempt ‘Freerider’ or other big wall free climbs. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 44:56. patreo...
Mar 12, 2022•27 min
Martin Keller is a Swiss boulderer, climbing coach, and teacher, and is known for his long-term dedication to his bouldering projects. We talked about spending 150+ days projecting his FA of ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/16 , how to change our brain chemistry, how Martin trains on his outdoor projects, and how changing his mindset unlocked his hardest climbs. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted ou...
Mar 07, 2022•2 hr 47 min
John Sherman is a bouldering legend. His nickname “Verm” (short for “Vermin”) is where the “V” in our bouldering grade system came from. We sat down in a cave in Hueco Tanks and talked about what bouldering was like 30+ years ago, early climbing shoes, highballing before crash pads were invented, out-of-body experiences, and how some of the boulders got their provocative names. Check out Chalk Cartel! chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! cr...
Feb 28, 2022•2 hr 4 min
