Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Grasshopper Climbing! ...
Jan 30, 2023•55 min
Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training . We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off cou...
Jan 23, 2023•3 hr 39 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:03:36. *Watch the uncut video interview here! patreon.com/thenugget...
Jan 19, 2023•44 min
Fundamentals (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for going on a climbing trip. Whether you are planning your first-ever climbing trip, or are a seasoned climber, we think you’ll find some helpful nuggets here. We learned these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, you won’t have to. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET...
Jan 16, 2023•1 hr 1 min
Welcome to a new mini-series called Fundamentals ! My pal Jesse Firestone joins me for a six-part series that covers some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. We hope these episodes answer common questions, and provide helpful nuggets for climbers of all ability levels. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon! Listen to Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse's Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone...
Jan 16, 2023•5 min
Anna Hazelnutt is a professional climber who specializes in difficult single-pitch trad and slab climbing. But don’t let her specialization fool you—she’s an all-around badass! We talked about two of her biggest climbing achievements to date, leaning into her superpowers, top training exercises for slabs, dealing with negative comments online, embracing empathy, comedy as a mechanism for change, and much more! Check out Chalk Cartel! chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your...
Jan 09, 2023•3 hr 12 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he’s had with his clients, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute...
Jan 04, 2023•26 min
Luke Mehall is the creator of The Climbing Zine and The Dirtbag State of Mind podcast . In this episode, we take turns interviewing each other. I ask Luke why he started The Climbing Zine, what lessons climbing has taught him, what themes connect the stories he selects, and how to sustain creative work. He asks me about my origin story with The Nugget, what all of these interviews have brought to my life, and the difficulties I’ve faced along the way. Check out The Climbing Zine ! climbingzine.c...
Jan 02, 2023•1 hr 15 min
New interview featuring me! Isabel von Rittberg is a good friend of mine and the host of Kegels and Coffee . She interviewed me on her podcast earlier this year to talk about my experience with my first-ever panic attack in December of 2021. We talked about what led up to the panic attack and how it was a wake-up call for me, how to stay sane while getting the work done, and much more. *This was one of the most vulnerable interviews I’ve done. And it’s one of my favorites. Hope you enjoy :) List...
Dec 26, 2022•1 hr 54 min
I often get asked, “what is your favorite interview you’ve ever done?” Firstly, I don’t have a favorite. But if I HAD TO CHOOSE ONE, it would be this episode. Alan Watts is a fascinating character in climbing history and a personal hero of mine. This interview was such a treat. I loved revisiting it for this repost. Enjoy! *This episode was originally published in EP 04, in February 2020. Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development ...
Dec 19, 2022•2 hr 26 min
Alita Contreras is back on the podcast! We talked about her Fall project in the Red River Gorge, the lessons that routes can teach us, and a film project that she is currently working on with her friend Elisa Varlotta called Guerreras . The film will feature Colombian women and the beautiful local climbing in Colombia. Support the Guerreras GoFundMe! http://gofund.me/47f5487d Follow on Instagram! @guerreras.film @alitaclimbing @elisa_varlotta...
Dec 16, 2022•44 min
Merch is here! I am SO excited about how the "hello friends" series turned out. Check out the Nugget shop for t-shirts, hoodies, and hats. All Patrons get free shipping! Buy Merch! thenuggetclimbing.com/shop Become a Patron and get free shipping! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Dec 15, 2022•6 min
Alayna Joy is a queer content creator and YouTuber , and newly obsessed climber. We talked about her journey of discovering she is gay, coming out publicly on her already-successful YouTube channel, how climbing has become an anchor for her, compulsory heterosexuality, questions we should ask ourselves, queerness in climbing, why our climbing progress slows down over time, and much more. Check out So Cards! socards.org Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Athletic...
Dec 12, 2022•2 hr 6 min
Todd Perkins is one of those local legends who you’ve probably never heard of. That is unless you’ve climbed on some of his routes around St George, Utah. We talked about growing up in the Mormon church, the mind-opening effects of cannabis, climbing his first 5.14 in the 90s and maintaining that level for 25 years, near-death experiences, the intelligence of the cosmos, aliens, and much more. Support the Access Fund! accessfund.org/donate Check out Crimpd! crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app!...
Dec 05, 2022•1 hr 52 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Amity Warme. We talked about sending The Honeymoon Is Over on the Diamond during a hailstorm, and we covered the highlights and lessons from her spring season in Yosemite. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:25:59. patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Amity’s Original Episode: EP 104: Amity Warme...
Nov 28, 2022•21 min
Katie Lamb is one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her early climbing and falling in love with bouldering, climbing her first V14 and what led to her breakthrough in the last two years, projecting tips, superpowers, lifting weights, balancing training with outdoor climbing, what it will take for her to reach the next level, and working in climate data science. Check out Arc'teryx! arcteryx.com Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskins...
Nov 21, 2022•2 hr 3 min
Marisa Michael is a registered dietitian nutritionist with 20 years of experience who specializes in eating disorders in athletes and climbers. We talked about the characteristics of eating disorders, the line between eating for performance and disordered eating, why losing weight won’t make you climb harder, recommendations for climbers and youth athletes, intuitive eating, Marisa’s sweet tooth, and much more. Eating Disorders Helpline: nationaleatingdisorders.org/help-support/contact-helpline ...
Nov 15, 2022•2 hr 15 min
Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more. Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply...
Nov 07, 2022•2 hr 34 min
Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. *He sent Alphane V17 two weeks after this interview. C...
Nov 01, 2022•3 hr 3 min
Robbie Phillips is a professional adventure climber and filmmaker from Scotland. We talked about his recent trip to the Western Isles of Scotland, his path from competitions to adventure climbing, top rope soloing to project hard routes, things he learned from climbing with Dave MacLeod, processing grief, capturing memories through filmmaking, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kit...
Oct 24, 2022•2 hr 35 min
Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more. Listen to more top episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out P...
Oct 19, 2022•1 hr 52 min
Lynn Hill is a living legend. She is best known for being the first person to free El Capitan via The Nose in 1993. We talked about what it is like to be Lynn Hill in the modern climbing world, her upbringing, what sets her apart, the story of freeing The Nose, tips for shorter climbers, her mindset and affirmations, self-belief, how she makes a living these days, upcoming video projects, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tel...
Oct 10, 2022•3 hr 16 min
My close friend Taylor Fragomeni joins me for Q&A 6! We talked about ways to improve your climbing if your access to the gym or crag is limited, and we tackled Patron questions about bouldering at night, best bang-for-your-buck strength exercises, beta videos, daily hangboarding, how to warm up for max hangs on a lifting day, and route and boulder pyramids. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, ...
Oct 03, 2022•1 hr 15 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned’s three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And...
Sep 29, 2022•24 min
Drew Ruana is back on the podcast and is joined by his friend Cameron Hörst , who is one of the best young sport climbers in the country. We talked about lessons they’ve each learned from recent sends, what it was like growing up as kid crushers, training for bouldering vs. sport climbing, how to stay strong while projecting, Drew’s thoughts on climbing V18, and Cam’s thoughts on climbing 5.15c. Listen to more top episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Petzl! petzl.com Or shop for P...
Sep 26, 2022•2 hr 27 min
Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker . We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau. Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! And c...
Sep 19, 2022•2 hr 23 min
Alice Hafer is a climber, writer, and coach who specializes in mind power training . We talked about climbing her first 5.14s, her experiences with depression and anxiety and how she changed her own mind through mental training, finding an identity outside of climbing, tips for staying motivated, focusing on effort over outcomes, and using box jumps to train for climbing power. Listen to more top episodes about Mind/Mindset! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Petzl! petzl.com Or shop for ...
Sep 12, 2022•2 hr 49 min
Sam Van Boxtel is a social media expert and the founder of Climbers Crag . We talked about the business side of being a content creator, why Instagram is the best platform for the climbing industry right now, the importance of having a strong “why”, why posts go viral, how to optimize for growth, creating value on social media, playing the game, and the balance between quality and success. Climbers Crag: climberscrag.com Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a...
Sep 05, 2022•2 hr 18 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:32:46. patreon.com/thenuggetcli...
Aug 31, 2022•30 min
Neil Gresham is a British climber and coach who has been at the cutting edge for over two decades. We talked about using ballet as part of his training for his FA of ‘Lexicon’ E11, the importance of developing your finishing game, extensor training for stronger fingers, go-to ring and TRX exercises, sticking our training in the bank, thumb crimping, climbing his first 5.14c (8c+) at age 45, and much more. Listen to more top episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Frictitious Climbing...
Aug 29, 2022•2 hr 35 min
