Jon Glassberg is the owner of Louder Than Eleven , a leading media production company in the Outdoor Industry. He is also a total crusher, having climbed 400+ boulders from V10 to V14. In part one we talked about filming Emily Harrington on her in-a-day ascent of ‘Golden Gate’, about Jon’s early climbing, about pursuing the goal of V15, and about his struggle with a bizarre injury. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-p...
Jan 25, 2021•2 hr 5 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Steve Bechtel. We talked about goal setting, how drinking more water can help with fat loss, the "Three Good Tries" rule, building skills vs. habits, three things to consider when choosing a training program, the value and limitations of training assessments, and why we shouldn’t necessarily depend on scientific research to tell us what to do. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up co...
Jan 21, 2021•13 min
Chris and Heather Weidner are a hardcore climbing couple, both with many 5.14s under their belt across multiple rock climbing disciplines. We talked about drink counting, New Year resolutions, current injuries, the steps to becoming a kneebar wizard, projecting tips, hard conversations, and balancing climbing goals with maintaining a healthy relationship. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-heather-weidner Nuggets: 2:41 – ...
Jan 18, 2021•1 hr 51 min
Jon Cardwell is a professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and sport climbing. Jon’s tick list includes V15, multiple 5.15a’s, and hundreds of 5.14s. We talked about lessons learned from ‘Biographie’ and ‘La Rambla’, about his off-season and pre-training modes, about bouldering for sport climbing, and about his current 5.15 project at The Fortress in Colorado. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-cardwell Nuggets: ...
Jan 11, 2021•1 hr 46 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Lizzy VanPatten. We talked about her FA of ‘Make Me Sanguine’ 5.13a—a beautiful new trad route on some of Oregon’s finest columnar basalt. This was also Lizzy's first 5.13. We talked about the process of projecting the route, about the meaning behind the name, and about breaking down the arbitrary limits we create for ourselves. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for...
Jan 08, 2021•16 min
This is a short clip that I shared at Darek Krol’s memorial service. I felt that this clip captured some of Darek’s philosophy of life, his spirit, and his humor. I wanted to share it here in case you don’t have a chance to listen through the full 3-hour episode. We will miss you, Darek. Full Episode: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/darek-krol
Jan 04, 2021•9 min
Darek Krol was known by many as the “Mayor of Rifle”. He managed to climb 400+ of Rifle’s roughly 500 routes in his 23 years in the canyon. Darek was killed in an avalanche shortly after this interview. We talked about his love of climbing, about stewardship, and about his close friend, the late Dave Pegg. Darek was well-loved, and he will be deeply missed. Darek Krol Memorial Fund: http://www.gofundme.com/f/darek-krol-memorial-fund Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/darek-krol Nu...
Jan 04, 2021•3 hr 14 min
In this episode, Steven thanks listeners for an amazing year and for supporting the podcast. He also shares some Christmas karaoke that he recorded in his van... Feedback Form: thenuggetclimbing.com/feedback Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Dec 21, 2020•5 min
This is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-2 Athletic Brewing: Promo Code: “NUGGET25” f...
Dec 14, 2020•46 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jasna Hodžić. We talked about the projecting process and Jasna’s notetaking process, what she learned from reflecting on ‘Voodoo’ 14b, and her considerations when choosing a new goal. We also talked about navigating climbing partnerships, and how to be honest upfront to avoid issues later. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/...
Dec 10, 2020•18 min
Alex Johnson is a two-time world cup gold medalist and has been climbing at a professional level for a decade. We talked about sieging ‘The Swarm’ V13, her effort to qualify for the Olympics, telling an honest story, failing publicly, lessons from coaching, coming out as LGBTQ, learning about self-love from her partner Bree, and becoming a role model. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-1 Athletic Brewing: Promo Co...
Dec 07, 2020•1 hr 34 min
My friend Trevor made shirts for The Nugget Climbing Podcast, and I am giving them away to some of you! Well, sort of... Learn more and reserve your shirt at thenuggetclimbing.com/giveaway
Dec 03, 2020•4 min
Chris Kalous is the host of the Enormocast and has been immersed in climbing for more than thirty years. We talked about training to be a climber in high school gym class, climbing mountains in New Zealand, soloing El Cap in winter, the infamous “Aid Rant” and the mythical grade of A6+, the ‘Freerider’, old-guy training, raising a kid, and the future of the Enormocast. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-kalous Nuggets: 2:41 –...
Nov 30, 2020•2 hr 5 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Brittany Goris. We talked about her season in Vedauwoo and some of the top offwidth climbing techniques she learned, about onsighting her first 5.13 trad route in Indian Creek, about how she approaches gear selection and placement for hard splitter projects and onsight attempts, and about her growing finger sizes. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month o...
Nov 26, 2020•9 min
Dru Mack is a professional rock climber who spent his formative years in the Red River Gorge, and is now traveling full time pursuing hard sport climbing. Nat Gustafson sits in on our conversation to talk about hard projecting, tricks for maintaining power and finger strength, an update on “The List”, training recommendations, hype up songs, and Dru’s battle with ‘The Crew’ 5.14c in Rifle. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dru-mac...
Nov 23, 2020•2 hr 15 min
Steven Dimmitt is the host of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. In this reverse interview, Ethan Pringle takes over and asks Steven about his upbringing, his path through climbing, and about starting the podcast. This episode also features questions from past guests on the show, asking Steven about some of his biggest mistakes, lessons learned, climbing heroes, and inner life. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-dimmitt Nuggets: 2...
Nov 16, 2020•2 hr 16 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about chasing weather in New England, about Jaws II, about the FA of ‘Nu World’ 5.15a/b, about the ‘Event Horizon’ project (the direct finish to ‘Nu World’), and about some of the strategies and tactics Jonathan uses when returning for a new round of attempts on a multi-season project. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month o...
Nov 12, 2020•9 min
Emily Harrington is a professional climber whose accomplishments span the climbing spectrum. From winning National Championships, to summiting Mt. Everest, to free climbing El Capitan, Emily has done it all. We talked about projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a day, partnering with Alex Honnold, embracing fear, eating to fuel your body, and cupcake batter ice cream. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emily-harrington Nuggets: 3:14 – Being ...
Nov 09, 2020•59 min
Hailey Franklin Fultz is a former competitive dancer, and a nutrition coach. For the past five years, she has used nutrition to help Matt Fultz (her husband) become one of the top boulderers in the world. We geeked out about all things nutrition: meal timing, protein synthesis, the role of carbs, supplements for climbers, strategies for fat loss, foods to avoid, navigating holidays, and Hailey’s favorite “healthified” treats. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://t...
Nov 02, 2020•2 hr 1 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Drew Ruana. We talked about his process of sending 'Box Therapy' and 'Creature From the Black Lagoon', as well his process projecting 'The Grand Illusion', and plans for summer training. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing . The full version of this follow-up call is 18:34....
Oct 29, 2020•9 min
This is part 2 of my conversation with Tonde Katiyo. We talked about RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) as a tool for communicating about difficulty, about the appropriate responses to different types of bouldering challenges, about the value and importance of route setting in a growing industry, about The Lab, and keeping training in perspective. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tonde-katiyo-part-2 Nuggets: 2:18 – RIC (Risk, Inte...
Oct 26, 2020•1 hr 14 min
Tonde Katiyo is a professional route setter, a passionate climber, a father, and a coach. His mother is French and his father is Zimbabwean. We talked about the connection between route setting and coaching, about coaching Nathan Hadley, Sean Bailey, and Margo Hayes, about his discrimination and privilege resumés, about exposing his kids to risk, and about making better climbing to make a better world. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/epi...
Oct 19, 2020•1 hr 36 min
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ethan Pringle. We talked about surfing, about the stories we tell ourselves about what we can and can’t do, about the biggest difference between Adam Ondra and everyone else, about Ethan’s projects in Northern California, and about my recent projects in Ten Sleep. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing . The fu...
Oct 16, 2020•19 min
Matt Fultz is a professional climber who is at the top of the bouldering game right now. We talked about sending ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, a typical day of projecting, deadlifting for finger strength, prioritizing strength before weight, practicing like you play, Mad Rock shoes, using your build as a gift, and starting OTG Strength with his wife Hailey. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-fultz Nuggets: 2:22 – The send McFlurry, ...
Oct 12, 2020•1 hr 2 min
Solomon Barth is a Stanford University graduate and software engineer. We talked about Solomon’s impressive two-week trip to Smith Rock, working with Alex Bridgewater to improve his footwork and bulletproof his fingers, training endurance using up-down-ups, veganism, working in tech, his desire to help make positive change in the world, and gunning for 5.15. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/solomon-barth Nuggets: 2:29 – Solomon’s...
Oct 05, 2020•1 hr 27 min
Simon Carter is an Australian photographer, and has been described by the editor of Rock and Ice Magazine as “arguably the greatest climbing photographer of all time”. We talked about building his first darkroom at age 15, pursuing full-time climbing in the early ’90s, action vs. landscape, camera equipment, the Taipan/Grampian closure, and Simon’s top 10 climbing photography tips. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-carter Nu...
Sep 28, 2020•1 hr 23 min
Charlie Manganiello has been coaching with Climb Strong for seven years and now heads the Elemental Strength program in Lander, WY. We talked about focusing all of your energy on one thing, misconceptions about deadlifting, maintenance strength training, Charlie’s go-to hangboard protocol, why climbing is important, and keeping things in perspective. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-manganiello Nuggets: 1:28 – Breakfast 2...
Sep 25, 2020•1 hr 21 min
Alex Bridgewater is a high-level rock climber who moved to Lander, WY in 2016, to train at Elemental as part of the Climb Strong Program. Alex now works for Climb Strong as a coach. We talked about his transition into coaching, managing a chronic back injury, favorite barbell and bodyweight exercises, speed walking, and the importance of self-belief. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-bridgewater Nuggets: 1:26 – Skating, early...
Sep 23, 2020•1 hr 26 min
This is a mashup episode from the 2020 Climb Strong Training Camp. We talked about hangboard training, strength as a skill, climbing performance, takeaways from the training camp, and lessons learned from coaching athletes. Featuring: Chrissy Vadovszki, Jonathan Siegrist, Ken Klein, Carly Cain, Alex Bridgewater, Kathryn Perkinson, Charlie Manganiello, and Amanda Sempert. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/climb-strong-team Nuggets:...
Sep 21, 2020•2 hr 4 min
Steve Bechtel is a strength coach and the founder of Climb Strong. We talked about the gift of changing your mind, lessons from studying sprinting and how to apply them to climbing, developing aerobic capacity, why Jonathan Siegrist and BJ Tilden are such successful climbers, the “real secret” to success, creating better habits, and Logical Progression 2. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-bechtel Nuggets: 2:25 – Steve’s hous...
Sep 14, 2020•1 hr 43 min
