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Hello, and welcome to Nothing to Wear, the podcast that solves fashion problems and levels up your wardrobe. I'm Lee Campbell, and every week I chat to an expert who helps us work out how to get more out of the clothes we already own and tells us exactly what is and isn't worth adding to our wardrobes. Now, as promised, after covering all the summer essentials, it's time to dive into an episode all about swimwear. Today, we're joined by
Nicole Banning, the owner and designer of e Femera. Known for their thoughtful designs, Efemera offers a wide range tailored to meet the diverse needs for women's bodies, from breastfeeding friendly options to a common tummy changes throughout the month, and finding the perfect cut for both boobs and bottoms. Their pieces are made with every woman in mind. Because
swimmer is more than just a summer staple. It's a true feat of engineering, crafted with care to help women feel confident and comfortable, whether they're lounging by the pool or enjoying waves at the beach or chasing little people around. So, firstly, Nicole, welcome to the show.
Thank you.
It's exciting to have you. All new guests answer a few questions before we get into the topic. So the first one is can you describe your style in three words?
Yeah, I think fun, definitely, colorful, and nostalgic.
Nostalgic. I don't think we've ever had a nostalgic and that plays perfectly into your brand.
Fun and colorful, and I love vintage, so there's a lot of nostalgia through vintage shopping.
Yes, and fun because you know, things are so individual. Now, there's a saying that most people wear ten percent of their wardrobe ninety percent of the time. So that's the tried and true. Maybe the classics, maybe they're basics. Maybe for you, they're fun, But what's the stuff you reach for and wear over and over again.
It's sort of a mix depending on what I'm doing obviously, so school right, I'm grabbing my vintage teas, sweats, denim. But when I'm dressing up, I'll grab print dresses. That's when I'll normally wear more of my collection if I'm going out and dressing stressing up. Footwear, Yeah, I've got a bunch of sandals that I love and they're a flat skirl to be host of the time. They me too, me too.
Hey comforts a thing and it still looks really good.
Yeah, absolutely, Okay.
I love that. Okay, So we're going to talk swim because the audience here and I think women in general, you know, with such an outdoor culture here in Australia, but swimwear can be scary. It can make people feel vulnerable absolutely, particularly trying on and shopping for So how do you approach designing with the concept of all different bodies and inclusivity and comfort in mind? I think sometimes, oh, that's a little bit of fabric, But actually swimmers like engineering.
It is it is, it really is like a mix of engineering and design. And they always say that you've got to have that pragmatic mind and then you've also got to have that creative mind, and you really are because you were kind of almost scaffolding the female.
Form absolutely, so where does the process start when designing thinking? You know, do you think of who she is? Or I just can't imagine where you start with that.
I've had my business for twelve years now, so it's very much been a mission of building a library of shapes that I know can work for different body shapes, and we have different styles that work for different bodies. I started when I was thirty years old and I just had shape. I have boobs, and I just wanted to I found sort of a little gap in the market where you had your skimpy bikinis or you had the more major andly motherly ones, but I wanted something.
I was sightly functional but not really beautiful.
Yeah.
Is that how it all started? It was like a need that you had yourself exactly.
I felt like there was something I had because I didn't want to just produce more stuff in a marketplace where there is so much stuff out there. I didn't want to just make more stuff, and I felt like there was something missing in a swimwear market, which is support without it being too chunky and too.
So you were thirty, You've sent sad children, yes, So have you been through any lived experience that your body has changed whereby you've gone, okay, I might create a design because my body's going through this. I personally go through perimenopause. It changes your whole life, including your wardrobe and including your body. So how did that influence I guess yourself what you wanted to wear in terms of swim and everything, and then how did you apply that to designs.
Yeah, it was actually a really interesting exercise being pregnant, going through pregnancy and then breastfeeding, so my boobs I probably grew three sizes during that time, So I went was wearing our sides small and I went up to our extra large. So it was actually really informative from my point of view to be wearing the same style I wear three sizes bigger, and to know what that
feels like, to understand if it's still supportive. And it did then inspire me to then maybe inject a few other things into the collection that I didn't have before. That sort of did give a little bit more support or coverage in the same way, but just a slight twig on things. So been really interesting and understanding how our styles work in different bodies, literally in.
Your own body, Yeah, exactly, And I guess yeah, you are only one woman, although we do fluctuate through the decades and when we're having babies or menopause. But how else do you, I guess, find out what women want in terms of support for the bust or the bum or the tummy or what they want to wear? Do you use sales figures? I'm almost exclusively one pieces now, but I was always a bikini So then when I see so many bikinis, I'm like, oh, then doesn't everyone
wear one pieces now? So what it informs what you make?
Yeah, well, it is a feedback loop. You put things out there in the market as a designer, and people respond by what they buy. Like it is essentially always a conversation, you know, as a business, and I think any business, it's the same thing. You put products out there, the customer responds, and then you're like, Okay, well they.
Like that more less of that, and how to trans factor into that then? Because you know, swim, while it's a staple, it does seem to change quite a lot from summer to summer or season to seas.
Yeah.
Yeah, I mean for me, there's always a classic cut. That's it's my body that I know. But you know, you see different prints. I know you're going to do with some show and tell, but everyone loves your Gingham Yes, everyone at Mama Mir included. So do you then factor in maybe trend colors or designs into your current shapes or Yeah.
We definitely have our core collection where we've got our staples, the things that everyone loves are best sellers, and then we always do a fresh collection each summer where we've got the new prints and new colors and injects of newness into the collection.
What you've got here and talk us through it, because I feel like show and tell is so important with swimwear.
This is our classic bra and so you can see here we've got a really sort of discrete under our casing. Yes, so it's got the support but it's not chunky. No, we've got the dart with the top stitching. We've got the double bound straps which would give you that extra support.
And it is like a bra, but it's nothing like a r It looks like this swimming top, yes, and it's fixed in the middle. Do you do any triangle bikinis that are on the sliding slide? No? Actually, I want not too much coverage. But then if it's not fixed in the middle for me. Yeah, it just still goes everywhere.
That's just a different type of brown, a different girl our customer is. So I think I feel like that market is so covered off.
It is. It's much easy to find that kind of triangle on a sliding piece of street.
And it's easy to produce, whereas we've really worked on our shapes and so this is sort of our secret sauce. Really is like, you know, doing the triangle, but doing it slightly differently, Yes, with a bit more support and same here, So I probably developed this after my second pregnancy. That looks different, So that's similar. Yeah, it's really similar. But we've got an underwire that comes up a little
higher the front. So for certain body shapes, and I found when I did go up into like the larger sizes when it was breastfeeding, I would sometimes come sort of come out a little bit of the front. So this comes up a little higher, so we've got a little bit more coverage around the center front. What's this star called the balconet? The balconets.
So we're gonna pop links in the show notes to all of these because I think it's important for people to see. If I was shopping the line, I would see it, but to see them next to each other makes you really realize the subtle differences that would make a big difference to your body. Yes, yeah, okay.
I miss. You've always got to try it on, you know, I think I always say to people, try on a bunch of different shapes.
Yes, what else have you got?
Well, then I bought in our three main pants. So high Wasted is actually really popular. Women love it. It's got that sixties vibe, that vintage vibe. If you've got a waste, it kind of shows it off in a way.
Yeah.
And then women that don't like to show their tummy, hmmm, that's a good one. It's good.
Is that a classic kind of bikini bottom? Like? Does it offer coverage? I don't know the terms. I know there's sh I know there's a lot of g strings around them, which is lovely for some people. Not when I'm tasting a five year old.
Yeah, it doesn't cover your full cheek. That's definitely cut away on the cheek a little bit.
But it's not a cheeky kind of Brazilian no, no, okay.
So we do have a minier option. I mean so this is our classic pant, which is still quite a bit of coverage. And so women now when they find the sometimes they say to us, oh my gosh, it's so exciting to fin pant that still has some decent coverage, because every pant has shrunk down so much.
I feel that too. I thought it was just me getting older. And like you say, there's a market for everything, but it depends on what you want out of his swimmers and what you're gonna be doing in them exactly.
So there are plenty of women that still want a bit of coverage, and so we're still catering to that, of course. And then for the girls that want a little less and less any pant. You know, it's not the full Brazilian No, it's not. But that's sort of as far as we go in terms of skimpy.
Sure, okay, do you do a tie side ever on the bottom?
No, I have that I've tried as well. But yeah, I think we were really offering something different to that classic triangle.
Yeah, which I guess would generally go with that top I described earlier, which.
That's like, yeah, it's so covered off in the marketplace, yes.
That you didn't need to fill that gap. That gap is there? What else have you got? I've just bought a few one pieces, So then I do love a one piece, you know why because half the time, I mean with swim. I love shopping for swim, but it's
like packing for holiday. I think I'm just going to be this person, but I probably go swimming or to the beach ten times a year, right, So I think this is actually a really great way to get sort of a bodysuit into your ardrobe jeans with like this beautiful blue gingham with a white skirt or not the top totally before you can justify.
It, especially on vacation if you're going, yeah for dinner.
Absolutely, And what's this shape? So that's kind of like the first bra you showed.
Yeah, so that's how a classic bra put onto a one piece body. So same thing, same underwire, same dart, same double bounced straps. Okay, yeah, got the power mesh in the back.
So it really is engineering when it comes to support and you know, supporting boobs.
It is yeah, folding ya. We just want people to feel comfortable at the beach. We don't want to be worrying about their swim. You want to show off your shape, so that styles great. It just shows it really does show off women's shape really well. And then this one is just in really easy fit, so it doesn't wear a neckline neckline. I enjoy it, and it doesn't have the underwear. So and there are women that don't want an underwear in their swimsuit.
Yes, I ideally don't unless it makes me look phenomenal. But when I go shopping, I don't grab the underwirel But sometimes when I've tried them on, I'm like, oh that, why is really job well?
I noticed that when I have customers that try on this style versus this style, their shape is different, very different.
Okay. I feel like, no matter how I yeah, you know, nothing's going to fall out, absolutely, but it's still very stylish. It doesn't feel like that sort of miracle suit rouching, you know what I mean? Beautiful and then tell me you do a classic black because I feel like, well.
Yeah, we do well. I actually brought in something that we're really known and loved for that it was actually worn by Jennifer Lawrence in the film Red Sparrow in twenty eighteen.
Oh my god, I love that movie. Did that do things for your brand huge. Oh wow, how did that come about?
It was so unexpected. Actually, the costume designer just purchased from our website.
Wow.
Yeah, she purchased a bunch of black one pieces and then she came back and repurchased this style and maybe five of them. And we didn't even know it was happening until the trailer came out and I had friends, Yes.
That's your swimsuit. Oh my gosh. So it's a cutout. Yes, a bikini but joined together, sort of exactly bikini, but joined together.
I wanted to do all these amazing design lines but also be functional where you can still feel held in. So again we've got that discrete underwire in here and all the bindings so you're held in. But yes, it's above them in peace. Yeah.
I need to go back and watch that movie.
Yeah. Well it's even in the trailer, so it's like quite a key scene of the movie. So I was so exciting.
Yeah, now listen, I want to talk about shopping for swim where I've got more questions. But I think you touched it really well. We can buy everything online. I don't even I mean, I guess it depends on where you shop. But whether or not you can return swim is a contentious issue because of hygiene stuff. Do you suggest people shop for swim in person if they can?
Yeah.
I think it's definitely helpful with a new brand to either if you're happy to purchase a bunch of styles and try them on at home.
Yeah, And then there is a returns policy.
Absolutely. I think you kind of have to offer that as a swim brand if.
You well, especially if you're only online. It's such a riar is Absolutely. Are your bikini sold separately the top and the bottom?
Yes?
And is that because you do find women are different sizes?
Absolutely? And I think when we started doing it, there were still a lot of major sort of designer swim brands that were still selling things by the steps. Yes, I had that problem where I wanted a bigger top at a smaller bottom. Yes, maybe it was a size bigger on top so that I was like, it might be a slightly difficult problem with infantry, which it hasn't been, to be honest.
No, okay, but I guess it's a service to the customer also to you, because someone might be a fourteen bottom or a twelve top or Okay.
And then I think a lot of women also love to buy a bunch of stuff online. You know, as long as it's a really easy returns policy, you can just.
There's nothing like trying on something that where you're half naked in the comfort of your own home. So, yeah, what is your returns policy? There is one? Yeah? Yeah, So you haven't shopped for swim for so long online, I guess because I am one of those people that just assumes gotta do it irl. Oh really, and once
I know what works for me. I'm not really that adventurous, but that's probably why I need a new swim Can I ask you before we moved on to trends, how do you care for swim Well, because I don't get that right, Okay, so you maybe swim in the beach, maybe swimm of a pool. How do we care for our beautiful swimsuit?
Well? I just normally just wash my swimsuit with cold water at the end of the day to give it a rint. Yeah, let it dry flat in the shade. Ideally, obviously we're putting sunscreen on and oils and all those things. Occasionally, if someone has had a spraytn or something and it hasn't washed off, properly. You just want to be careful about things like that rub off on your light fabrics.
Yeah, okay, and then can we check them in the machine or we don't need to?
No, I wouldn't, and also you don't want to actually not if you have a metal buckle like we do, they can get knocked around.
Yeah, and the underwire, so treat it like a delicate bru I would.
I would hand wash it for sure, in a gentle detergent. Yeah.
It is such a good point.
And then if there's any stains, I'd recommend like a pure soap. Okay.
Now let's talk about customer preferences and trends. So we've we talked about, I guess depending on body shapes. But what do they always come back for? Is it the high waisted? Is it a classic one piece? What does your customer come to you for keep purchasing?
Well, our Gingham is just sort of our signature that we're known and love for. I think it's because it's fun, but it's still classic enough that you can wear it summer after.
Summer without all that was so two summers ago, Yeah, exactly.
So it's got that fun aspect, but also it's not too.
Yeah, it's not trend based, but it's not boring.
No. And then it's got a nod to like the nineteen sixty screen sirens, I think as well. So it's got that little you know, fun yeah, vintage essence as well.
Which you love.
Yeah.
So I understand two sides of the coin. When it comes to swimwear. It's a small piece of fabric, yes, and sometimes it's two hundred dollars and you might be able to go up the road to get something to cover your body to go swimming for twenty yes. So I want you to justify and I get it from working on this side of the podcast. Why is well made swimwear expensive? Well, let's start with the fabric. Our fab we buy from Italy or from Spain, so they're
from the top Licra suppliers. And what that means is that swimsuits going to last ten years or more. So LIKERI is not Likeras not likes the same.
So a lot of Likras are meeting in China, but they don't have that same elasticity and lifetime. And I've got friends that are still wearing some of the swimsuits for my first collection and they still.
Look and they're over a decade old.
Yeah wow, And I will put that down to the licra that we've been using.
Hey see, I just figured synthetic fabrics, you know, much of a muchness. So that's really good to know.
Yeah, we're buying a premium fabric, and yes it is a small amount, but it's still part of the cost of the goods and then all the construction that's going into it. I'll make prices obviously much higher than a little triangle bikini because they're super easy to make and faster to make, so any support, the manufacturing cost is higher all of those things. Yeah, all the little black clips that we've got, we've got the metal back clips.
We use really good rubber inside. So if you've got to really if they've cheap rubber inside, that's going to go. I don't know if you've had a swimsuit that's kind of gone.
Absolutely I have, but I obvious see it the wrong time. You're trying to go for a swim and top on.
Your life span of the garments.
Yeah, so really cost for wear because you do put swimsuits through a lot. Like you say, you know you're wearing sunscreen you're going into chemicals or to salt. You're in the sun and the sun, Yeah, exactly, it's.
Exposed to the elements. So yeah, and I mean yeah, just from an ethical point of view and a sustainability point of view, like we don't want to make things that are that.
Are going to end up in land fell in a summer time.
Yeah, it's an investment piece. I think once people try them on and they understand or they see it on a friend, and that's sort of I think there's a lot of word of mouth that happens too, and I think they understand sort of the value proposition of the fit and the cut and all of those things that we've invested in as well.
Well. That leads me nicely to the next question, because I love that you do stay true to your personal design style and your philosophy of that kind of slower fashion in a very very fast paced fashion industry. How do you do that, how do you keep on the straight and narrow and what do you think is going to happen to the industry in that way.
That's a really interesting question. I think the Internet has changed I'm noticing more and more how much the Internet has changed fashion and before brands had a monopoly and wholesalers had a monopoly, like stores had a monopolia about how it was all run and we all had to produce these seasons. But there's also the dark side of that, which is that there are a lot of brands that have come in selling a lot of cheap products, which
scares me as well. Yeah, there's the good and the bad with like everything, but the Internet's what the good and the bad. I mean, personally, it's allowed me to slow down the pace of how we're.
Operating because everything else seems not everything, but a lot of it seems to be speeding up. But I guess there's a different kind of customer for each lane. Yeah, if that makes sense.
I think so. And I mean just having a busy life. On a personal level, it's allowed me to slow down how many collections we're producing a year, and I can just focus on our core collections. And I used to produce three collections a year and now I'm only doing one. And I don't see why I should need to release because we've got the Southern hemisphere. In the Northern hemisphere, I.
Can ask as a swimwear brand, and you know, I guess a brand associated with summer. How does that work? From a business perspective? You then launch in the northern hemispheres, summer, cover that off, then focus back down in Australia and vice versa exactly. And so when we feel like it's dead here, there's lots going on up there.
Yeah, and we have a little shoulder season, like February's traditionally a quiet month as we're flipping over to the Northern hemisphere, and then September October sort of like the other lull.
But yeah, I mean it's nice. We like a lull every now and then. There doesn't need to be something you want a website every week?
Does it?
No, it's very expensive.
Let's jump into bougie and budget swim edition. Let's start with your bougie. I'm just going to put a disclaimer out there. I've bought brands that aren't yours because I figured you're going to bring your own. But I want to start with your bougie. What's your recommendation there?
It's our now split one piece, noa.
Split one piece made famous by Hollywood A listers. How much is that?
It's two hundred and ninety dollars okay, but it's gonna.
Last you forever. And you're right, it's funny unless you do kind of go shopping for somewhere irl and get it all together and play with it. It is such a different level of quality when it comes to the.
Fabric yeap and construction into instruction.
It's beautiful. Well, my bougie, I hope I'm saying this right. Is the Artisans. I don't know if you've heard of this brand. It's an Australian brand. It's under the same umbrella as Bondi, and Bondi is one size fits most. Artisans is also, but probably more realistically fits most part. So it's just a classic rig sort of one piece one eighty four ninety five. I do have this one, yeah, one eighty four ninety five, and it fits me beautifully.
And then my best friend, who is a couple of sizes different to me, she has the exact same one. So interestingly, there is this whole one size fit most happening quite different to yours because yours is engineering and construction to support the bus, whereas this is more sort of just one fabric cut into a shape. They say it can go from size Australian twelve to size Australian twenty years.
And I think that's all about that fabricicular.
Fabric, it is exactly. It's a very specific fabric. But I just think that's a good one, particularly if you do fluctuate. I get endo and we'll have endo and I can be various sizes depending on what time of the month it is. So that's a helpful one. What's your budget.
I'm loving a good baseball cap on the beach at the moment as an accessory with swim.
Agreed, do you make any Yes? We do, Okay, I do love a good cap too. I need to keep some in my boots because I always forget my hat. I think my husband's hat, my son's hat, everyone's Sonny's, everyone's got Sun's green and them, oh Mum's got nothing. So I agree, we've got to we can never be too sun safe. My budget is from Marks and Spencer's so a million years ago I bought a really great swimsuit that they've stopped doing. And if I had a dollar for every time I get a DM saying Lee,
what was that? Swims similar one? It's called the Marks and Spencer three sixty degrees tummy control, printed padded swimsuit. It reminds me a little bit of your square neckline. It's just a square neckline and it kind of holds everything in. It's more affordable than yours. I'm sure the quality is nowhere near the same. It comes in a whole bunch of different patterns. This is sort of just like a zig zag. They call it a black mix
and it's sixty five bucks. So that's another option. But I'm definitely more of a one piece girl, as you can see from those two recommendations. Are you one piece of bikini?
Bikini?
Are you? I'm going to go try some bikinis on. I think I've just pigeonholed myself because when I was freshly postpart and I was like, oh, I wear one pieces now, mom, And that isn't that a silly thing we tell ourselves? So I'm going to go transer.
I did that for a little while, did you, And I think it was just I felt like wearing one pieces for a while.
Yes, well, thank you. That was such a good insight into how swim design works in the whole industry. So thank you so much for thank you, thank you, thank you for listening to Nothing to Wear. That episode was so interesting to learn about all the behind the scenes
of Australian design when it comes to swim. So to celebrate Australian swimwear, I am going to write an article for Mummy subscribers all about the best and my favorite Australian swimwear and why so we'll pop a link to that in the show notes And if you haven't listened to our summer episode yet, there's a link to that in the show notes too. See you next week. This episode was produced by Grace Rourey with audio production by
Lou Hill. This podcast is powered by our subscribers. If you believe in independent women's media and want to support us, there's a link in the show notes and a big thank you to all our current subscribers.
