48. How To Create A Climbing Training Plan with Steve Bechtel

We're at the end of the training series with Steve Bechtel. Today we put our training knowledge together and talk about how to create your own training program. Whether you're a boulderer, sport climber, or non-competitive climber, this episode is for you. Previously we've talked about energy systems, mental tactics, performance, and today we're cramming in a lot more info on how to put together a climbing training program! If you need a reminder on power endurance, essentials of strength climbing, recovery, and much more - go back and have a listen to the other episodes in this training series with Steve!  

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00:01:11 How to frame "training"

00:07:04 How to decide what to focus on when creating an off-season plan

00:12:47 Skill goals vs grade goals

00:15:21 How to balance working on weakness & strengths

00:19:27 Less measurable qualities, less obvious progression

00:24:48 When and if to work on finger strength 00:29:00

How to put a training program together

00:38:36 Minimum guideline: how little you can train

00:44:01 Pre-season focus

00:46:39 Performance phase balance

00:50:16 Should we schedule de-loads

01:02:29 Recommendations for sport climbers without rope access

01:07:18 How to train endurance to come back during outdoor season

01:15:45 Making room for board climbing training