In today's podcast, Tom Randall sits down for a solo recording on strategies and approaches to training and performance in climbers in their 40s and beyond. Tom has been a professional athlete through his 20s, 30s and now 40s and is ready to share the learnings behind performing and feeling your best when training and climbing. He will cover time management, recovery, training sessions, deload cycles, stress, sleep, and injury. Plus some of his insights on how to make the most out of limite...
Mar 11, 2023•34 min•Season 6Ep. 9
In today's podcast episode, Tom Randall sits down with James Pearson , one of the most exceptional climbers of his generation in the UK. Tom and James discuss his impressive career, which started with him pushing the cutting edge of the UK climbing scene in trad and hard bouldering as a teenager, after just four years of climbing. Since then, James has climbed all over the world, making a name for himself by establishing and repeating many of the world's hardest trad lines, and flashin...
Feb 18, 2023•1 hr 7 min•Season 6Ep. 8
Today we have the second part of the two-part podcast featuring pro climber Hazel Findlay . Hazel has made a name for herself in the climbing world with her impressive trad ascents up to E9/10 and recently made headlines with her repeat of the challenging Esclatamasters 9a route in Perles. In the first part of our podcast, Tom Randall and Hazel focused on the physical aspects of climbing, exploring the methods, insights and takeaways from her training with Lattice through her coach Maddy Cope . ...
Feb 04, 2023•46 min•Season 6Ep. 7
Join us for an exciting two-part podcast featuring pro climber Hazel Findlay . Hazel has made a name for herself in the climbing world with her impressive trad ascents up to E9/10 and recently made headlines with her repeat of the challenging Esclatamasters 9a route in Perles. In the first part of our podcast, Tom Randall and Hazel will focus on the physical aspects of climbing, exploring the methods, insights and takeaways from her training with Lattice through her coach Maddy Cope. In the seco...
Jan 28, 2023•40 min•Season 6Ep. 6
Looking for a podcast that has more big grade talk, more cutting edge performance discussion and even more obscure facts about Aidan and Will, then look no further… Tom Randall sat down to chat with Aidan Roberts and Will Bosi when they were at the Lock Up HQ filming for the Burden of Dreams replica recently. Tom aimed to dive into the details of what makes these guys tick, how they're training and preparing for climbing the world's hardest projects and what are all the little details ...
Jan 21, 2023•1 hr 39 min•Season 6Ep. 5
In this podcast, coach Maddy Cope talks to Joy Black who you may know as @calliejoyblack, who returns for another insightful episode. Joy is a strength coach for pregnant and postpartum climbers and is currently 10 months postpartum herself. She educates about the pelvic floor, strength training and breathing as they relate to training during pregnancy and after birth. In this podcast, the conversation is all about Diastasis Recti . Diastasis is one of the most common terms seen online when look...
Jan 14, 2023•1 hr 33 min•Season 6Ep. 4
In this podcast Maddy talks to Steve Thompson from Sheffield Hallam University about power and how we may approach developing our power for climbing. Power is an element of training that can cause a lot of confusion, yet it is an attribute that many climbers put on a high pedestal and seek to improve. Steve explains what power is and how we can best think about power when it comes to sports (and climbing). He talks about the big picture approach to developing power in a sustainable way, as well ...
Jan 07, 2023•1 hr 4 min•Season 6Ep. 3
In this podcast, Maddy talks to Uzo Ehiogu , a physiotherapist, lecturer and strength and conditioning coach, about lower limb injuries in climbing. With an increasing amount of information about injuries in climbing, we find ourselves swimming in content focused on the upper body (shoulders, elbows, fingers). This is understandable given the nature of climbing, however, it can lead us to neglect the lower body when it comes to understanding injuries and strength development. The lower body play...
Dec 17, 2022•1 hr 29 min•Season 6Ep. 2
In this podcast, Ella Russell talks to Dr Nicky Keay , an honorary clinical lecturer in the division of medicine at University College London. She lectures and researches in areas of exercise endocrinology, with publications in this field. Nicky’s clinical endocrine work is mainly with exercisers, dancers and athletes, with a focus on relative energy deficiency in sport (RED-S) and athletes navigating perimenopause/menopause. In addition to being the author of the British Association of Sports a...
Dec 10, 2022•1 hr 16 min•Season 6Ep. 1
You might well have heard of today's guest, Ryan Devlin as he has become pretty well known for hosting his podcast - The Struggle Climbing Show . Over the years he has interviewed a number of fantastic and legendary climbers including: Alex Honnold, Lynn Hill to name a couple. However something you might not know about Ryan, is that he has been a Lattice client for the last few years. So today coach Tom Randall is flipping the mic and putting Ryan on the interview podium to chat about his o...
Nov 26, 2022•1 hr 17 min•Season 5Ep. 19
In this podcast, Maddy sits down with Kevin Roet to talk about the fear of falling and ways to integrate fall practice into climbing. Psychology and fear are complex topics, but fear of falling is undoubtedly something that impacts many climbers' enjoyment and performance. Kevin described his personal journey that has led to him writing a book on this topic; Climbing Psychology: Mind training for optimal climbing performance Main topics: Kevin’s journey and overcoming fear of falling Develo...
Nov 19, 2022•46 min•Season 5Ep. 18
In today's podcast, Tom Randall talks to Renee McGregor , a hugely experienced sports dietician whose career has spanned 20 years, including the London Olympics, Rio Paralympics and Commonwealth Games in Queensland. She’s also recently written a (5th) book ‘ More Fuel You ’ which covers the nutritional needs for sport participation, training, competitions etc. This book looks at a number of the most popular diet options for athletes including low carb, vegan and intermittent fasting. One ad...
Nov 12, 2022•1 hr 10 min•Season 5Ep. 17
Today coach Maddy Cope talks to John Kiely who is an elite performance coach and lecturer with experience across numerous sports. John explains the importance of our mindset and beliefs when it comes to training. It can be easy to fall into the trap of thinking physical adaptations are a case of “training stimulus in”, and “gains out” and in turn this has led us to coin the terms “responders” and “non-responders”. John explains the deeper complexity of physical adaptations in terms of the impact...
Nov 05, 2022•59 min•Season 5Ep. 16
In this podcast Lattice coach Maddy Cope talks to Dr Stacy Simms , a sport physiologist from New Zealand that has focused on female physiology in her research as well as published books. She is perhaps best known for coining the phrase “women are not small men”. In this episode we talk about the menstrual cycle, how Stacy views the current research, and how she arrives at practical application of this information in a training context. Some of the topics covered in this episode are: Changing the...
Oct 29, 2022•1 hr 10 min•Season 5Ep. 15
HOT OFF THE PRESS! Aidan Roberts just climbed Alphane , a 9A in Chironico this week, so we got him to sit down with Tom Randall interview to discuss the news, the process and Aidan’s history with this line. This is the second ascent after Shawn Raboutou, and one of the few 9A/V17s in the world right now. The interview is broken down into sections few, which should give everyone something to go away with, whether you’re in the double digits yourself or you’re interested in what process someone go...
Oct 21, 2022•1 hr 34 min•Season 5Ep. 15
If you’re new to boulder projecting or even reasonably experienced, then this episode is for you! In today’s recording, we have Tom Randall giving his experience and advice on how to increase the chances of a successful tick this season, via his ‘Top 10’ strategies. Each of these approaches can be used in almost any situation and when you find ways to combine many of them on the same day, then you’re really winning! Projecting is about bringing all of your hard-won training improvements to the t...
Oct 15, 2022•18 min•Season 5Ep. 14
If you’re new to projecting or reasonably experienced at redpointing, then this episode is for you! In this episode, we have Tom Randall giving his experience and advice on how to increase the chances of a successful tick this season, via his ‘Top 10’ strategies. Tom is no stranger to projecting, having had hundreds of successful redpoints over the last two decades including many multi-year projects. The approaches that you hear Tom explain in this podcast are ones which are directed mainly at b...
Oct 08, 2022•20 min•Season 5Ep. 13
In this episode, we’ve got Adam Fiala and Tom Randall back to finish off what they started in this 2-part storytelling podcast. If you’re looking for the first section of the journey where Adam shares his story about the dream to climb his first 5.14 you can find it here http://mujsuplik.blogspot.com/p/dancing-with-wolves-blog-series.html . The interview is structured in the same manner as part 1, where Tom narrates the blog on behalf of Adam as English isn’t his first language. He then follows ...
Oct 01, 2022•1 hr 11 min•Season 5Ep. 12
Tom Randall returns in another 'solo podcast' for part 2 of the Power Endurance series. In this episode, he dives into the aspects of performance and preparation that have the greatest effects on the projecting and redpointing process. We can't really overstate how important these factors are and how much the use of them is the crowning glory on top of all the hard training you've done over the years. Get these sorted and you'll be ticking harder and faster, more consist...
Sep 24, 2022•20 min•Season 5Ep. 11
In today's podcast Maddy Cope talks to Martina Demmel . Martina started climbing at the age of 15, and is now 20, and despite the fairly short climbing career so far, she has a vast number of hard sport climbs under her belt. Her sport climbing is characterised by fast ascents and hard onsights, as well as achieving so across many different styles. Last year she climbed her first 9a - Joe Cita - and joined the small club of female climbers that have on sighted 8b+, with her onsight of Humil...
Sep 17, 2022•1 hr 1 min•Season 5Ep. 10
In todays episode, Tom Randall sits down with Lor Sabourin , who is an unwavering advocate for the non-binary and trans community in climbing, and has a lot to share. Their work in Warriorsway is very valuable, equipping climbers with resilient and flexible minds to deal with stress and anxiety. These mental tools are not just useful for climbers but can come in handy for everyday life. Tom and Lor met through the trad community in USA, with both having a common interest in crack climbing. Lor k...
Sep 10, 2022•1 hr 4 min•Season 5Ep. 9
Having a family and climbing means a lot of planning and rotating your projects in order to be able to project without missing prime seasons in different crags. So, today we have the second part of Martin Keller 's interview with Tom Randall , where they reveal some of their secrets for juggling it all. Martin, or @swizzybouldering is known by some for getting fairly obsessed with performing, which has resulted in him sometimes over training, not resting and not looking at conditions. Howev...
Sep 03, 2022•44 min•Season 5Ep. 8
On a rare occasion, you get a climber who has climbed impressive grades, but their performance metrics put them on weaker grades. Typically this means that the climber has something special or elite about another facet of their performance, away from pure physiology. And what better way to understand this better than for Tom Randall to sit down with Martin Keller , who is also known as 'SwizzyBouldering', to talk about how he approaches his projecting and has become one of these rare c...
Aug 27, 2022•1 hr 3 min•Season 5Ep. 7
In today's podcast, Tom Randall sits down with one of Australia's most accomplished rock climbers, Tom O'Halloran. Having competed in the recent Tokyo Olympic games, bouldered up to V14, and also sport climbed 9a, this guest is a world class disciplined climber with a lot to share. In addition to his impressive climbing career, Tom has a family and a day job, so he has learnt a lot of valuable time managing skills in order to keep pushing his climbing to the limit. All of this wil...
Aug 20, 2022•54 min•Season 5Ep. 6
Today we have another returning guest having previously chatted on the show, with her partner in crime Kyra Condie . Who is both accomplished in indoor competitions as well as in outdoor climbing, having climbed up to V14! Please welcome back to the show .... Allison Vest ! Allison first came to the attention of us at Lattice through a piece of data funnily enough. Quite some time ago, Tom Randall was compiling a list of the greatest finger strength levels ever measured in female athletes and Al...
Aug 15, 2022•1 hr 6 min•Season 5Ep. 5
In this episode, we have one of the Lattice athlete team, Anna Hazelnutt, returning to the podcast with Tom Randall to discuss her incredible run of climbing performance since last year. We last interviewed her, with just a few trad leads under her belt and her first 5.14 sport climb. Since then, she’s gone on to repeat two of the most iconic E9s in the UK - ‘Once Upon A Time In The Southwest’ and also ‘Walk of Life’ in a remarkable trajectory of grade. We talk to Anna about why she originally c...
Aug 06, 2022•1 hr 2 min•Season 5Ep. 4
For today's podcast, Tom Randall sits down with Molly Mitchel, a pro climber with a very unique story. Having come out of a climbing gym, she is now a rising star in the trad community. Who seemingly quickly decided to get into hard and very bold trad, having done accents in Colorado mountains, including China Doll, a super techy 5.14 climb. With more danger inevitably comes more risk and Molly sadly broke her back on her project "Crank It" 5.13+. Having fractured L2 and L3 verteb...
Jul 30, 2022•1 hr 1 min•Season 5Ep. 3
Have you ever wondered about extreme margins of performance, well today's podcast is the right one for you! Dominic Rowe , a client of Lattice, just got his first 8a / V11 under 2 years, and we couldn't be prouder. His amazing progress in an insanely small amount of time just blows our minds, so we had to have him come in and talk about it all. Training and hard work are all part of the equation, but what really gets climbers to accomplish such hard grades so early on? Well, Tom Randal...
Jul 23, 2022•1 hr 7 min•Season 5Ep. 2
In today's Lattice podcast , we bring you Moonboard Royalty, the one and only, Mr Ravioli Biceps ! Most of you probably already know him for his impressive and focused Moonboard achievements over on his Instagram. Ravioli has completed 413 of the benchmarks Moonboard 2016 set up, and most of the 2019 set up, placing him among the elite. Ravioli also has his fair share of outdoor ticks, with grades up to V14, so he is definitely very capable in both formats of bouldering. We will be keeping ...
Jul 16, 2022•1 hr•Season 5Ep. 1
Are you obsessed with fingerboarding? Well, grab a seat and listen up as we delve into the world of beastmaking! In this episode Tom sat down with one of the founders of Beastmaker , Dan Varian , a fingerboarding expert. As you probably know Dan is no stranger to training and also has multiple FAs, repeats of v14s and hard trad routes, to name a few of his climbing achievements. It's tricky to know where to start in interviewing Dan, as alongide an impressive ticklist and running a successf...
Jul 09, 2022•1 hr 32 min•Season 4Ep. 18
